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Thread: Sound System Upgrades W/ Enclosure

  1. #1

    Corey's Avatar
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    Default Sound System Upgrades W/ Enclosure

    As the holiday season approaches, and as we start shopping for Christmas Gifts for others, make sure you save a little for yourself. I am planning collecting a few needed items to finish the upgrade on my stereo system. I bought the truck with upgraded Infinity Speakers, and after I got tired of playing with the stock stereo's joy stick that would move by itself when I'd roll over a parking lot speed bump, I looked up on Crutchfield for replacement head units. So many to choose from, but I settled with a mid-line Kenwood Excelon X896, which was an easy install. I left the factory in place, and haven't added anything else, except for an empty rear enclosure that keeps calling out, "Hello? Just because I am in the back under the bench seat, don't forget about me!" I know getting the enclosure is part of the battle, but with all of the choices for speakers and amps out there I have no clue what to get, nor do I know anything about how to wire it up. I can solder wires, but an electrician I am not.

    Before I go any further, I am not looking for something to rattle the rear license plate, or try to pop out the rear windows. I do listen to what 80' and 90's New Wave/Punk/Electronic/Ska, but now has been changed to something including Synth Pop? Looking for something that I can listen to at low to mid volume, with an every-once-in-a-while volume crank up so when my wife and I finally decide on something we both can listen to, she can get out her hair brush to sing with me.



    Just for the record, I never let my wife check the oil, nor do I let her eat M&M's in the truck, eventhough they do have a candy-coated shell

    So with all of you that have upgraded your system, what would you recommend, or what have you done? What would you do different? What did you spend? Do you have any wiring/routing diagrams? Amp and Speaker choice and how to hook them up? Where to mount it, and do I use the factory front amp? I know kind of vague, but this is where I am starting. I know everyone will have a bigger and louder system, but I am just looking for something that will last, and of course sound good. A lot of questions I know, but I have time.

    I did search this information out on this site, and haven't found what I was looking for, or anything close to it.

    Thanks in advance.
    Last edited by Corey; 12-04-2015 at 08:40 PM.
    DRTC #1176

    2000 Bright White CC (1/553)
    Dyno'ed 07/05/13 (126,000 Miles) 230 Hp / 308 Tq
    14.6 @ 93 mph (2.18 60 ft.), 4130 lbs.(1/2 tank gas)
    Truck Pictures --> http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v9...Clough/Dakota/

    1985 Kawasaki GPz550
    2003 SV650S (Race)
    1973 W100 Powerwagon


    Mater: I don’t need to know where I’m goin’, I just need to know where I been!

  2. #2

    Corey's Avatar
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    I have been reading up on Crutchfield's Website on speakers and amps. Still foreign to me, but they do show the wiring of subs.

    The Dakota Custom Loaded Enclosure info is here
    http://www.crutchfield.com/p_236DDXP...ms.html?tp=113
    and comes with the following information:

    Woofers: The ThunderForm enclosure is loaded with two 8Ω, 10" MTX Terminator subwoofers. The subwoofers are wired in parallel to a single terminal, presenting a 4Ω load to your amplifier.
    Guess I should go with 4 ohm speakers instead?

    Here is the description of that amp:
    Class D Amplifier: The enclosure contains a built-in 200-watt Class D (digital) amplifier that allows RCA or speaker-level input. The amplifier is highly efficient and designed specifically for use with the subwoofers in the enclosure.

    I some-what get the matching of the amp to the subs (meaning I am not 90% clear on this), and it looks like I'll be hard-wiring the power of the amp to the battery, fused of course. The question is, does the in-dash head unit still use the factory amp in the passenger kick panel area? Do I need to replace that with something else now or later down the road?

    So I have some time before I start this project as I await year end bonus. Any help/assistance would be appreciated.
    DRTC #1176

    2000 Bright White CC (1/553)
    Dyno'ed 07/05/13 (126,000 Miles) 230 Hp / 308 Tq
    14.6 @ 93 mph (2.18 60 ft.), 4130 lbs.(1/2 tank gas)
    Truck Pictures --> http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v9...Clough/Dakota/

    1985 Kawasaki GPz550
    2003 SV650S (Race)
    1973 W100 Powerwagon


    Mater: I don’t need to know where I’m goin’, I just need to know where I been!

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    niebs's Avatar
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    yes the subs and the amps need to match pretty close for the ohms. Dual coil subs will give you a wider wiring option cause then you can run the coils in series or parallel. There's a member on here that has his truck loaded with a huge system, hopefully he'll chime in or maybe you can shoot him a pm, l Illl try to find his name, cause im no expert in this stuff. I just know what Ive read up on when i bought stuff for my truck.
    As for actual speakers. i would look into getting a component setup with crossovers. These have separate speakers for high, mid, and .ow range so that everything is alot more crisp.

    1LoudRT is his screen name on here.

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    Corey's Avatar
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    Great! Thanks for the information. I would think a lot of Members here have the MTX Loaded Enclosure, or at least the box running different speakers, and amps, and whatever else.
    DRTC #1176

    2000 Bright White CC (1/553)
    Dyno'ed 07/05/13 (126,000 Miles) 230 Hp / 308 Tq
    14.6 @ 93 mph (2.18 60 ft.), 4130 lbs.(1/2 tank gas)
    Truck Pictures --> http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v9...Clough/Dakota/

    1985 Kawasaki GPz550
    2003 SV650S (Race)
    1973 W100 Powerwagon


    Mater: I don’t need to know where I’m goin’, I just need to know where I been!

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    I have the MTX sub system in 2 of my trucks however the amp is separate in one and is used to drive subs and side speakers in which case the OEM amp is not used. The other one has a separate MTX amp to drive the MTX woofers, in this truck I use the OEM amp to drive the side speakers. Both systems sound OK. I do prefer the solution with the amp driving all speakers, a lot more wires to run but the sound mix is better. You will need to connect your side speakers directly to the amp.
    As you probably know you have lots of options with your head unit, Crutchfield is your best source of info as they answer these questions all the time and can talk in terms we can understand. Your dollar and labor budget will drive your solution.

  6. #6
    Osee's Avatar
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    When my buddy used to own my truck at first he put in an alpine sub (early 2000's) it would make the rear push out windows virbrate real bad, but he said as a whole the system sounded like shit, the sold the sub and put in a alpine X system to replace all the factory speakers, 500w speaker amp and matching deck. The system has been in the truck for atleast 8 years, and it still blows all my friends and their systems out of the water. Quality speakers set up correctly go a looooooooooong way.


    Mods - TB Spacer, Short Throw Dipstick, Performance Auto Zone Intake "0.30 over bore", R/T Cam, Performance Chip, Radiator Delete

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    Steve '02CC's Avatar
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    I built a system in a cc that seems to fit what you want. It won't take the windows of houses, but it can easily exceed the maximum comfort volume I can tolerate. The only things that I did that were "over the top" were converting to a double din and mounting tweeters in the A-pillars.

    I knew I wanted an MTX Thunderform because it leaves a nearly factory look while giving you 2 10" subs. I'm not sure what subs I have other than they are not MTX. I basically got whatever it was that fit because the Thunderform is shallow ànd hard to find subs for.

    I also had an amp for the subs given to me by the guy who sold me their Thunderform. This meant I needed another amp for the other speakers. Our trucks have limited space so I got a Rockford Fosgate amp that is pretty small. I mounted an amp under each seat by attaching them to pieces of diamondplate aluminum mainly to act as heatsinks. These things get phenomenally hot and I personally feel that subs should never be mounted against carpet; it just doesn't make sense to me to mount electronics against something that insulates.

    Bypass the Infinity stuff. This is similar to wiring a home entertainment center. You use the RCA jacks from the head unit and connect to the amps. The amps then connect directly to the speakers, and I recommend connecting new wires directly from the amps to the speakers. This means that most of the dozen wired that connect from the amp harness to the truck harness will ultimately be unused.

    I recommend using the thickest wires that you can, and pay less attention to keeping them as short as possible. Leave slack. The experts scare you into thinking that every spare inch of length will generate obnoxious noise, but it just doesn't happen. In fact I think the hysteria over using thicker wires is overblown too, but at least ticket wires don't interfere much with installation.

    Really all you need for the head unit is the power wire, the blue-colored wire that it uses to turn on the amps, and the RCA wires. The amps do the rest. To power the amps I used an overkill thick wire, with a fuse near the battery, I drilled a hold in the firewall (smoothed with a sanding dremel bit and protected with a grommet), and then I have a fused splitter to branch the power to both amps.

    This will be a fun project for you... I'm getting all nostalgic for 2012...

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    Corey's Avatar
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    Thanks for all of the replies guys!

    So, you have addressed the speakers I already have and leaving them alone with the stock amp under the dash, right? The stock placement of the tweeters are separate from the other lower speakers in the door panels. I can leave them there for now. Double Din??? If you point me in the direction of them, I'll look into it. I'll keep the newer Infinity's in there, and in the rear side panels for now and just concentrate on the subs.

    What brand speakers, and amp did you buy? WhiteR/T has a few amps for me, so the low profile speakers is what I would need next. I don't plan on popping out my rear windows, as it won't see anything above mid-volume. I like to hear the engine while driving from time to time, so the volume isn't that loud.

    I will but Monster Cable for the speaker wires. If they make direct plug in for what I will be using, I can get them as well.

    I will look at my stereo's instructions and rear connectors for other options. I am sure it has the ability to control the subs.
    DRTC #1176

    2000 Bright White CC (1/553)
    Dyno'ed 07/05/13 (126,000 Miles) 230 Hp / 308 Tq
    14.6 @ 93 mph (2.18 60 ft.), 4130 lbs.(1/2 tank gas)
    Truck Pictures --> http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v9...Clough/Dakota/

    1985 Kawasaki GPz550
    2003 SV650S (Race)
    1973 W100 Powerwagon


    Mater: I don’t need to know where I’m goin’, I just need to know where I been!

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    Steve '02CC's Avatar
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    I wouldn't even bother with the Infinity amp. From what I have heard it is not that impressive and requires 2ohm speakers which limits your speaker choices, and setting up your own system isn't difficult. I'd either remove it altogether or pull its fuse so that it can't cause future trouble and start from scratch with a new aftermarket amp.

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    1LoudRT's Avatar
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    there are two ways to get real good bass out of these trucks- The way I have mine is subs facing forward with Port on top of box facing roof. The second option is to build a downfire box, where both the subs and the port face down towards the floor. The down fire box is best when your tight on space and want something clean and subtle. You can make it to where your rear seat bench mounts on top of the box, it will be raised a little but it's enough to get a much better sound vs. trying to use the mtx, q-logic, or other pre-made fart box
    Customized from head to toe. Truck Trend Magazine Favorite Show Truck From SEMA 2010, Featured in Truck Trend Mag Feb 2011, Feature Article CarAudio Mag and Featured in CarAudio Mag SEMA booth 2010. Truckin Magazine Full Feature issue 12, 2011 & Truckin Magazine Truck of the Year, Named 2012 Mopar Top Eliminator by Chrysler Corporation, Full feature and interview on Solo Films DVD Inspired Lifestyle. Sponsored by Memphis Car Audio, Tuff Stuff Performance, Taylor Wires, Viar Corp, Continental Tires, K&N, North Star Battery & Monzter MotorSports.

    A Custom Truck is not created by how big your wallet is. It's the hands on effort you apply from your own ideas. Only then can it be called Custom-- Dynamic Installs

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    I just finished my system and i have to say the thunderform gives a nice tight deep bass with the right subs and a little dynomat. My old r/t had infinity with a thunderform and it had a great sound not the best it could be but really good so in my opinion if your door speakers sound good to you i would keep them and just get a sub to fill the sound gap. As far as wiring goes i would get a name brand amp kit for sure, alot of cheap wiring is that CCA crap. As far as amps go the lower the resistance the amp see's from the subs the more effecient its going to be so if your 8ohm mtx subs wired to 4ohm are lets say 150 watts rms than you would want an amp thats 300 watts rms @4ohms to max them out (most amps have a couple ratings ie 300watt rms @ 4ohm, 600watt rms @2ohm ect..)

    My current setup is the thunderform box
    2 jl audio w1v3 4ohm single voice coil subs rated @300 watt rms
    alpine mrv-m500 500watt rms @ 2ohms
    rockford RFK4X wiring kit

    Heres a couple pics wish you could hear it
    c06b6f0cf57ff98.jpg
    e65df9557e71910.jpg
    bcf72013a524494.jpg
    556611d5bf82a99.jpg
    Last edited by caliR/T; 12-02-2015 at 07:59 AM. Reason: added pictures

  12. #12

    Corey's Avatar
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    This is great information, and thank you all for the comments and suggestions. I realize that this task has many different routes that can be taken, and no one is the same for everyone. Knowing I can always upgrade anything as the years roll by, just getting something that will work correctly is what I am looking for. I can price out what you have in your system from the internet, and get an idea what it will cost, with my labor, to determine what my price range is. I want to do it right, and if that means holding out till I can afford the right components, then so be it. The current system is working fine, just missing some good bass. Making my own speaker box is not the route I plan to go, and I do understand to get the best from the interior space and sound, would be to make one, but it is not in the budget. I have the enclosure, and am looking to fill it with some mid-grade (not the cheapest) components to make this work with my current system.

    Just looking at what caliR/T has listed above, pricing the speakers out on Crutchfield as an example, they $179.00 ea., the amp is $199.00, and the wiring kit is $109.00, which has a total Damien Omen's $666.00. $400 to about $500 seems to be in my price range, but as always, there is room for more. Getting what you pay for will never have me buying bottom line equipment, but my affordability will also not have me buying the top of the line.

    I wonder why in all of my searching here, this hasn't been asked before?

    Again I thank you for the information and suggestions. I am still reading and trying to understand stereo equipment. Back in the day it was all about separates (woofer, mids, and tweeters), but with todays technology it all has changed, and I haven't kept. Good sound doesn't have to be expensive right? It all just needs to be built to match.
    DRTC #1176

    2000 Bright White CC (1/553)
    Dyno'ed 07/05/13 (126,000 Miles) 230 Hp / 308 Tq
    14.6 @ 93 mph (2.18 60 ft.), 4130 lbs.(1/2 tank gas)
    Truck Pictures --> http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v9...Clough/Dakota/

    1985 Kawasaki GPz550
    2003 SV650S (Race)
    1973 W100 Powerwagon


    Mater: I don’t need to know where I’m goin’, I just need to know where I been!

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    I know it's a long way but here you are
    http://southjersey.craigslist.org/pts/5275914799.html

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    Corey's Avatar
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    For that price, someone needs to scoop that up!
    DRTC #1176

    2000 Bright White CC (1/553)
    Dyno'ed 07/05/13 (126,000 Miles) 230 Hp / 308 Tq
    14.6 @ 93 mph (2.18 60 ft.), 4130 lbs.(1/2 tank gas)
    Truck Pictures --> http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v9...Clough/Dakota/

    1985 Kawasaki GPz550
    2003 SV650S (Race)
    1973 W100 Powerwagon


    Mater: I don’t need to know where I’m goin’, I just need to know where I been!

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    chrgr340's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dstoots View Post
    I know it's a long way but here you are
    http://southjersey.craigslist.org/pts/5275914799.html
    Quote Originally Posted by Corey View Post
    For that price, someone needs to scoop that up!
    I sent him an email to see if he'd be interested in shipping it. Will post what I hear back.

    Steve - 1999 Flame Red RC R/T-56
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    great deal for sure but shipping is going to hurt. Just keep an eye on craigslist and be patient unless you dont mind paying full price. Both thunderforms i have bought i got off craigslist for around $100 a piece. I bought my head unit and door speakers new got my amp kit new off ebay for $70 and found subs and amp on craigslist in new used condition for $180. If you keep looking you can find great deals. I still look every once in a while and the w1v2 always pop up for $150-$200 with an amp.

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    Steve '02CC's Avatar
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    Honestly you could get a huge boost by just changing your speakers but what is the fun in that? Some of the best fun I had with my truck was typing out the interior and upgrading the audio system. I even did it slow and drove around in a tin can with one seat for a while. Now I'm pampered with having an actual interior since I haven't had to change anything in a while. It's like for the past 3 years I've been living in a pussified "safe space" truck. My volt meter in my gauge cluster recently popped out and instead of being pissed I was happy because I finally have a reason to year my dash apart again. LOL

  18. #18

    Corey's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Steve '02CC View Post
    Honestly you could get a huge boost by just changing your speakers but what is the fun in that? Some of the best fun I had with my truck was typing out the interior and upgrading the audio system. I even did it slow and drove around in a tin can with one seat for a while. Now I'm pampered with having an actual interior since I haven't had to change anything in a while. It's like for the past 3 years I've been living in a pussified "safe space" truck. My volt meter in my gauge cluster recently popped out and instead of being pissed I was happy because I finally have a reason to year my dash apart again. LOL
    The stock speakers were changed to Infinity Kappa all the way around, by the PO, and the head unit was changed as well. I can imagine what the difference was in just changing these would have been from stock.
    DRTC #1176

    2000 Bright White CC (1/553)
    Dyno'ed 07/05/13 (126,000 Miles) 230 Hp / 308 Tq
    14.6 @ 93 mph (2.18 60 ft.), 4130 lbs.(1/2 tank gas)
    Truck Pictures --> http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v9...Clough/Dakota/

    1985 Kawasaki GPz550
    2003 SV650S (Race)
    1973 W100 Powerwagon


    Mater: I don’t need to know where I’m goin’, I just need to know where I been!

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    Hugh Jassole's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Corey View Post
    For that price, someone needs to scoop that up!
    Just called him, that's not too far from my house
    "the vast majority of the people on this website are such tight asses that they could probably squeeze out diamonds - but they'd never spend the money to buy the coal' - Steve F. 2012

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    Corey's Avatar
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    I had no idea I would get so many responses just about speakers and amps for the MTX Enclosure. There are a lot of members that know a lot about how these things work, and I appreciate the replies. I have some time, and some thinking to do about what to "stuff the box" with. These enclosures are shallow, and non-ported, so that will make a difference on the speakers of choice; in addition, these boxes do not have a place for an amp to fit, so either under the seat, or on the floor behind the seat is were it will go. Thank you for the replies, PM's and e-mails, as I have learned a lot, and will continue to read up, and ask before I buy.
    DRTC #1176

    2000 Bright White CC (1/553)
    Dyno'ed 07/05/13 (126,000 Miles) 230 Hp / 308 Tq
    14.6 @ 93 mph (2.18 60 ft.), 4130 lbs.(1/2 tank gas)
    Truck Pictures --> http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v9...Clough/Dakota/

    1985 Kawasaki GPz550
    2003 SV650S (Race)
    1973 W100 Powerwagon


    Mater: I don’t need to know where I’m goin’, I just need to know where I been!

  21. #21
    Osee's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Corey View Post
    I had no idea I would get so many responses just about speakers and amps for the MTX Enclosure. There are a lot of members that know a lot about how these things work, and I appreciate the replies. I have some time, and some thinking to do about what to "stuff the box" with. These enclosures are shallow, and non-ported, so that will make a difference on the speakers of choice; in addition, these boxes do not have a place for an amp to fit, so either under the seat, or on the floor behind the seat is were it will go. Thank you for the replies, PM's and e-mails, as I have learned a lot, and will continue to read up, and ask before I buy.
    My amp is under the passenger seat


    Mods - TB Spacer, Short Throw Dipstick, Performance Auto Zone Intake "0.30 over bore", R/T Cam, Performance Chip, Radiator Delete

    Rev limiter? that's what valve springs are for!

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    niebs's Avatar
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    damn you guys with cc trucks got it easy. try finding space in a rc for everything haha.

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    Quote Originally Posted by niebs View Post
    damn you guys with cc trucks got it easy. try finding space in a rc for everything haha.
    lol its easy, in my previous rc Dakota I had PG 6.5" comps in dynomated doors, tweets in the a pillar, crossovers in the kicks and the amp under the passenger seat, 12" Fi SA d2 sub in a box to replace the center console and a Sundown saz 1500.1 amp powering it, big 3 wiring upgrade and a kinetic battery all through an alpine deck

  24. #24
    niebs's Avatar
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    Yeah i had to make a center console for my 10" L5 and two 6X9 full ranges. 1200.2 amp for the sub. 450.4 for the speakers. Need to replace the door speakers still.

  25. #25

    1LoudRT's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by niebs View Post
    damn you guys with cc trucks got it easy. try finding space in a rc for everything haha.
    could always cut and do a blow through
    Customized from head to toe. Truck Trend Magazine Favorite Show Truck From SEMA 2010, Featured in Truck Trend Mag Feb 2011, Feature Article CarAudio Mag and Featured in CarAudio Mag SEMA booth 2010. Truckin Magazine Full Feature issue 12, 2011 & Truckin Magazine Truck of the Year, Named 2012 Mopar Top Eliminator by Chrysler Corporation, Full feature and interview on Solo Films DVD Inspired Lifestyle. Sponsored by Memphis Car Audio, Tuff Stuff Performance, Taylor Wires, Viar Corp, Continental Tires, K&N, North Star Battery & Monzter MotorSports.

    A Custom Truck is not created by how big your wallet is. It's the hands on effort you apply from your own ideas. Only then can it be called Custom-- Dynamic Installs

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