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Thread: Street 3 link

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    Sick 660r's Avatar
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    Default Street 3 link

    I know it's going to happen at some point so I want to get your guys opinions. The shocks are already setup for coils and they are double adjustables. This would be a four link outside the rails. The chances of it ever seeing the track is slim but having the adjustability would be nice. Power will most likely stay around 600-700 at the crank with a manual behind it. Regular maintenance on the joints is a given. I'm interested in something decent around turns and a better ride than hotchkis with caltracs would be a plus. I would stay with the hotchkis sway. With that being said, what brand, length, joints etc?


    Quote Originally Posted by BluRT00 View Post
    Part your red sport out and buy a gen 2. Problem solved.

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    I was told by a fabricator when i described wanting all the same qualities in my next rear suspension as yourself, that a triangulated 3-link would be a better option. With a factory tank you can go with the top triangulation facing the back towards spare tire area, and with a fuel cell you can go the traditional forward. Probably what I will end up doing here next year.
    HI. I like beer, burnouts, and boobies...


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    Quote Originally Posted by dakrt23 View Post
    I was told by a fabricator when i described wanting all the same qualities in my next rear suspension as yourself, that a triangulated 3-link would be a better option. With a factory tank you can go with the top triangulation facing the back towards spare tire area, and with a fuel cell you can go the traditional forward. Probably what I will end up doing here next year.
    I don't think I have room for a triangulated setup. I don't have room for anything above the diff with my drop. I also refuse to ditch the stock tank and I have the heat exchanger behind the axle.


    Quote Originally Posted by BluRT00 View Post
    Part your red sport out and buy a gen 2. Problem solved.

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    Quote Originally Posted by dakrt23 View Post
    I was told by a fabricator when i described wanting all the same qualities in my next rear suspension as yourself, that a triangulated 3-link would be a better option. With a factory tank you can go with the top triangulation facing the back towards spare tire area, and with a fuel cell you can go the traditional forward. Probably what I will end up doing here next year.
    If you run the upper bar towards the rear and lower bars towards the front, it will twist the axle (pinion angle) as it cycles through suspension travel

    Drops panties faster than any R/T

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    Quote Originally Posted by wyotech_cuda440 View Post
    If you run the upper bar towards the rear and lower bars towards the front, it will twist the axle (pinion angle) as it cycles through suspension travel
    I don't think he worded everything correct.


    Quote Originally Posted by BluRT00 View Post
    Part your red sport out and buy a gen 2. Problem solved.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Sick 660r View Post
    I don't think he worded everything correct.

    This... Im not an expert just relaying what I was told a couple years ago. The long and the short of it was... do i have to move my stock tank? No we can run the bars backward... ok cool thanks.
    HI. I like beer, burnouts, and boobies...


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    ppl have run the them backwards. normally the air bag guys do. however its not overly suggested do to stability issues. Really if your not racing it I see no need to get rid of the leafs. Unless you just want to, then I get it. Actually if you want it for turns then I would suggest a torque arm setup. Lot of pro-touring guys run them.

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    I have to run caltracs to control whell hop and it makes for a rough ride. I don't think I have room for a torque arm either


    Quote Originally Posted by BluRT00 View Post
    Part your red sport out and buy a gen 2. Problem solved.

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    Actually a torque arm setup may be possible. The axle is up far enough up but my 5" DS will make things difficult. Any good reads for designing one


    Quote Originally Posted by BluRT00 View Post
    Part your red sport out and buy a gen 2. Problem solved.

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    Another option is a truck arm setup... they have quite a few benefits over other types of rear suspension, and the NASCAR guys seem to have made them work pretty well.

    I was told I could use the Hot Rods to Hell S-10 kit 600+ hp version and it should work in our trucks.
    HI. I like beer, burnouts, and boobies...


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    I should probably spend some time trying to modify the leafs. If I can find a way to ditch the caltracs while controlling wheel hop and add a watts link or panhard bar to provide more lateral stability then I would probably be happy.


    Quote Originally Posted by BluRT00 View Post
    Part your red sport out and buy a gen 2. Problem solved.

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    looking into ways to get the most out of the leafs.

    Always wondered about perch angle but never looked into it. The perches are about 30* forward from 90 when measuring from a string connecting both eyes and I didn't even have all the weight on the suspension. I wouldn't be surprised if the perches were binding on the top of the leafs. There wasn't much room. Making it 90* should soften the springs.

    I'm looking into roll center (RC) in reference to the center of gravity (GC) and how its affected by the leaf spring datum line. I'm running 2" drop hangers and I'm not sure how that affects the handling. I've read a lot of contradicting information, some say the front spring eye should be lower and some say it doesn't matter. I may give hotchkis a call on Monday to see what they suggest.

    Simply fixing the sway bar geometry made a very noticeable difference. Little improvements really add up so I'm hoping that I find a few issues that I can fix with my current setup.

    comments welcome....


    Quote Originally Posted by BluRT00 View Post
    Part your red sport out and buy a gen 2. Problem solved.

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    "Simply fixing the sway bar geometry made a very noticeable difference. "

    What did you do to correct the angle?
    1999 CC R/T
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    Quote Originally Posted by BluRT00 View Post
    Part your red sport out and buy a gen 2. Problem solved.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Sick 660r View Post
    I have to run caltracs to control whell hop and it makes for a rough ride. I don't think I have room for a torque arm either
    As a guy looking at caltracs and mono leafs please elaborate. Does the ride blow? I know it's not possible but I want the best of "all" worlds. I definately want to drag race but don't want it to creak and sound like a Rez rocket. If it means 4-link which was what I wanted in my head then I will pony up the $$$$$

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    I just felt that it made the rear quite a bit stiffer.


    Quote Originally Posted by BluRT00 View Post
    Part your red sport out and buy a gen 2. Problem solved.

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    I only glanced at the first page but it's an interesting read.

    https://www.physicsforums.com/thread...-class.326355/


    Quote Originally Posted by BluRT00 View Post
    Part your red sport out and buy a gen 2. Problem solved.

  18. #18

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    What's your issue removing the stock tank?
    1998 Silver RC SLT - Hughes 2.02 Heads, Mopar M1 4bbl Intake, Mopar 4bbl TB, 230/236 .515/.515 on a 110, 1.6 Roller Rockers, 4.10's, Spintech Headers, 3" Duals, X Pipe, Chambered Mufflers, 4/4 Drop, 727 Full Manual w/Transbrake, PTC 4500 Stall


    12.90 at 104mph

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    I've been down the fuel cell road and will try my best to never have one on a street vehicle. I don't have room for one unless it's in the bed and I really like using the stock fill location. I had fuel delivery issues last time along with heat issues.


    Quote Originally Posted by BluRT00 View Post
    Part your red sport out and buy a gen 2. Problem solved.

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    Whats size rear tire are you running? how much room do you have from the frame to wheel.

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    Quote Originally Posted by bruizer28 View Post
    don't want it to creak and sound like a Rez rocket
    Needs all the chrome stick on trim and a Chebby 350


    Mods - TB Spacer, Short Throw Dipstick, Performance Auto Zone Intake "0.30 over bore", R/T Cam, Performance Chip, Radiator Delete

    Rev limiter? that's what valve springs are for!

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    Quote Originally Posted by niebs View Post
    Whats size rear tire are you running? how much room do you have from the frame to wheel.
    335/30/18. 4.5" between tire and c notch.


    Quote Originally Posted by BluRT00 View Post
    Part your red sport out and buy a gen 2. Problem solved.

  23. #23
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    Put the truck on the ground for the first time since changing a lot of stuff. Upper control arm hits the header before the suspension even settles. Need tubular upper arms before messing with anything in the rear.


    Quote Originally Posted by BluRT00 View Post
    Part your red sport out and buy a gen 2. Problem solved.

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    damn. Any pics of it hitting?

  25. #25
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    It's your typical case of the upper control arm hitting when running long tubes. I've moved the motor/trans down and back, for clearance issues, and it's made it worse. I was bound to happen at some point.


    Quote Originally Posted by BluRT00 View Post
    Part your red sport out and buy a gen 2. Problem solved.

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