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Thread: New Old Work Truck

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    98Dak408's Avatar
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    Default New Old Work Truck

    By chance I found and picked up a 1995 Dakota with a 4 cylinder, 5-speed. The ad said “just the usual scratches and dings”… Well maybe for a contractor that doesn’t care about the vehicle (LOL) but it is a Florida vehicle that began some minor rust during the 7 years in Michigan. I can eventually fix the scratches, dings, and dents…but it is the lack of rust that made the difference for me. I’ve already got thoughts of souping it up (turbo-4 or V8 drag truck) but I bought it for an economical work truck for picking up parts, supplies, equipment etc.



    Note: it's about a 1000 lbs lighter than my '98 CC I think; talk about shaving some weight.

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    Mark's Avatar
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    Nice score. Turbo and then leave it alone.
    1999 R/C Solar yellow

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    98Dak408's Avatar
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    Nice score. Turbo and then leave it alone.
    Honestly, that's what I've been thinking.

    Maybe an SRT4 engine.

    Edit: The only problem with a turbo is that now you are going faster and will need to upgrade the handling, etc., etc. A snowball affect.
    Last edited by 98Dak408; 10-25-2015 at 04:00 PM.

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    y2krtaf's Avatar
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    Nice find!
    More square body parts!!!
    They dearly need an X-brace to tighten the chassis.

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    blackknight's Avatar
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    Nice find!

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    98Dak408's Avatar
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    They dearly need an X-brace to tighten the chassis.
    Yes, I figured I could use it to mock up an x-brace for it. First I'll see how the one for the '97-04 fits.

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    OldKota's Avatar
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    ^^Do it!! (I need one for a club cab tho)

    every few months I check around on craigslist, hard to find them rust free... ive got my eyes peeled for a rust free club cab 5.2 4x4 5 speed....called a guy on one a couple months ago, said it wasn't for sale anymore because his kid who just got their license wrecked it...

    let me know on the x brace, Id be glad to guinea pig the club cab version for you or send measurments if you need
    1995 Dakota Club Cab, 408, 5spd, 8 3/4 rear end

  8. #8

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    Nice truck buddy! Hope you use it as a platform for some new GenII parts. Be careful though, to much time with the second Gen and you will be ready to unload that Z code truck.

    "The Dakota" 1995 RC Dakota 5.9 NV3500 Just hauls ass

    "The Dinggo" 5.2 Hauls the family

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    OldKota's Avatar
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    ^^ ill take one of everything, maybe two depending on what it is
    1995 Dakota Club Cab, 408, 5spd, 8 3/4 rear end

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    SupaMan86's Avatar
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    Nice score! I've wanted one of those for awhile now!
    Quote Originally Posted by slammedR/T View Post
    Here is a secret if you 1/8 mile time is shitty, then your 1/4 mile time will be shitty too......
    Google Blue Waffle, I dare you.


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    98Dak408's Avatar
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    Turns out I kind of got hosed on this truck. The previous owner wasn't honest with me. LOL

    The engine is shot and needs a rebuild, the throw out bearing is squealing big time, and the clutch pedal feels funky. When I get the time I'll pull the engine and rebuild it. While I'm doing that I'll prototype some after market parts for it.

    Anyway, I just scored a "G" cylinder head brand new old stock 287 casting for $275 shipped. It is complete with valves and springs. It supposedly flows 10% more than the stock NA/turbo 782 head casting. I think I'll do a mild port job to it, install a mild cam, and shave the head or block to raise the compression a bit and call it good. Might fab some headers for it.

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    y2krtaf's Avatar
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    Sorry to hear it it needs a bunch of shizzz,but it should still be a fun project!

  13. #13

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    cool have a 95 plain jane 4cyl 5speed here to , trying to have it registered and pass Swedish dot .(florida truck)
    you looks better in green
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    Sure is difficult finding aftermarket parts for the 2.2L and 2.5L engines. I was looking on ebay for an intake manifold and I noticed an ’87 Dakota carb version and the runners looked a little fatter than the newer TBI intakes. I found a couple of unsubstantiated comments that stated that they may flow better than the TBI manifold.

    If it ever stops raining I may go to a few salvage yards with some calipers to see if there might be any merit to this. If so, I’m sure I could fabricate an adapter plate to install the TBI throttle body to it. I’ve even contemplated the possibility of using a 3.9 TBI with two throttle plates and injectors. However, I think the 2.2/2.5 TBI runs around 15 psi and the 3.9 is higher but I’ll have to double check that.

    Apparently sources say that these N/A engines run lean with modification but an adjustable fuel pressure regulator may be used to increase the pressure thereby increasing the flow of the injector(s). An AFR gauge would be necessary to dial that in if it works I assume. I’ve also noticed that there are many variations of the same intake depending which vehicle and year it was in. A bone yard trip might be interesting in that regard.
    Last edited by 98Dak408; 10-02-2016 at 06:54 PM.

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    Still trying to decide what to do with the motor rebuild. I need to rebuild it, but do I really want to put more money into an uninspiring work truck as far as performance goes? Lol Anyway, the following are some camshaft choices that seem to be available (other than possibly the 252/252). (Not sure how much overlap the OEM PCM can handle without getting really annoyed.)

    1. 1995 OEM Roller Camshaft: Advertised Duration (AD) 236/232; Overlap (OL) 8
    2. Older OEM Slider Camshaft : AD 244/244; OL 28
    3. Mopar Performance Slider Camshaft: AD 252/252; OL 36
    4. Comp Cams Slider: AD 260/260 OL 44
    5. Comp Cams Slider: AD 268/268 OL 52
    6. Comp Cams Slider: AD 280/280 OL 60

    The duration at .050 is a better way of comparing camshafts although neither OEM nor Mopar Performance specifies that. The book 2.2/2.5 FWD 4th Edition specifies to obtain duration at .050 with the OEM cam to multiply it by .777 and for the Mopar Performance camshaft to multiply it by .850. If this is correct we end up with the following duration at .050:

    1. 183/180
    2. 190/190
    3. 214/214
    4. 214/214
    5. 224/224
    6. 234/234

    Note: the MP cam no. 3 and the Comp cam no. 4 have the same duration at .050 and same lsa 108 but have different advertise duration and OL. (It makes me wonder about the conversion factor accuracy…)

    The cylinder head I have (G-Casting) originally ran with a slider cam so it has the proper oiling channels in the camshaft main cap. Now, how much cam can the OEM PCM handle?!
    Last edited by 98Dak408; 11-06-2016 at 09:55 PM.

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    I also ran a simulation of the cams through my engine simulator. The simulator doesn’t have the exact engine parameters in the library for the Chrysler 2.2/2.5 engine so I modified the specs of a Ford 4-cylinder to use for comparison purposes. The figures will not be entirely accurate but it will tell you how the different grinds may behave in relation to one another.

    1. TQ 149 HP 91
    2. TQ 149 HP 95.5
    3. TQ 150 HP 100
    4. TQ 150 HP 103
    5. TQ 148 HP 105
    6. TQ 145 HP 107

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    y2krtaf's Avatar
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    Interesting for sure,are you going to stay N/A with it?

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    Interesting for sure,are you going to stay N/A with it?
    Yes I am. I've got to get my R/T on the road yet and should throw the money at that. But since I have to rebuild the motor, I can't resist playing with it a bit. If I go with the 244 cam it will be a cheap swap. $17 for the cam at a bone yard, stock springs, etc. That cam would probably still work okay with the stock computer. I'd like to go with the Comp 268 but the Comp 260 would play better with the computer. However, it's relatively easy to swap cams although now I am looking at longer slider rockers, springs, etc. Porting the head is a given, even with the stock cam If I had the coin, turbo all the way. lol

    Note, if I can find the 252 cam that would probably be the way to go with 36 OL and the stock .430 lift. With that I could probably get away with new higher rate stock springs but I'd probably put the Mopar springs in to be to keep the spring rate higher as they wear and become softer.

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    Corey's Avatar
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    From what I remember with this generation, is the 5 speed comes with a big drop from 4th to 5th, and the rear was 3.55, but not limited slip. I can be corrected.

    You'd have to lower it a little, and go with better brakes, if you add more power, but a turbo package would be interesting and you have a lot of room in that engine compartment for it. Weber side drafts would be a big step backwards, sound cool, but would also be an eye opener when the hood it lifted. I don't know what your smog laws allow.

    Have fun with it.
    DRTC #1176

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    Yeah, I'm trying not to go to far with this in regard to modifications. Belltech has a front and rear sway bar kit for the 4-cylinder Dakota but I may see what is available at the bone yard in regard to the V6 or V8 version.

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    It looks like I may be able to use the HGH10 spring in place of the stock springs: http://stores.hi-potek.com/valve-spr...-dodge-magnum/

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    Quote Originally Posted by 98Dak408 View Post
    Yeah, I'm trying not to go to far with this in regard to modifications. Belltech has a front and rear sway bar kit for the 4-cylinder Dakota but I may see what is available at the bone yard in regard to the V6 or V8 version.
    The Belltec front bar is no better than the factory stock bar on my V8 truck,and the Hellwig rear bar is what I run since it mounts to the frame and not the axle like the Belltec so as not to add to unsprung weight.

    I’m thinking about cutting down a stock front R/T bar to fit the front,as I really feel the front needs a stiffer bar with the addition of the one on the rear.

    I really wish there were a higher rate front spring to control the front better...


    Oh,and as a side note,do NOT use Belltec drop spindles unless you have a way to cure the insane bump stear you will be blessed with.

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