What plug do you guys recommend for nitrous, the NGK BKR6E or BKR7E? This will be on a stock motor with a NX 75 shot working up to a 150 shot out of a spray bar plate. OEM ignition with an ACCEL coil.
What plug do you guys recommend for nitrous, the NGK BKR6E or BKR7E? This will be on a stock motor with a NX 75 shot working up to a 150 shot out of a spray bar plate. OEM ignition with an ACCEL coil.
Mods - TB Spacer, Short Throw Dipstick, Performance Auto Zone Intake "0.30 over bore", R/T Cam, Performance Chip, Radiator Delete
Rev limiter? that's what valve springs are for!
The 7 plugs but use a non projected tip.
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Know this is an old thread but will the BKR6E's still work? Whats the advantage of running the 7's over the 6's?
Ok awesome. But can my original question be answered please? Will the 6's work or not at all?
Mods - TB Spacer, Short Throw Dipstick, Performance Auto Zone Intake "0.30 over bore", R/T Cam, Performance Chip, Radiator Delete
Rev limiter? that's what valve springs are for!
use the 6's. Hit it with a small shot and read the plug.
I'd use the 7's, but what do I know.
RYAN/TUNED
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First off, you never listed how much nitrous you will be spraying??
Second if a 100 shot through a 175 shot I would run the 7 range plugs, now if a 200 shot or better i would run a #8 plug, but as always READ YOUR PLUGS!!!!!!
PULL TIMING!!!!!!!! biggest rookie mistake is these ass hats talking you into "man you spraying a little you don't need to pull any timing" HORSE SHIT!!!!!!
you always start out 2* for every 50hp of nitrous, now with that said that is only a starting point, when you read your plugs you will most likely add some timing back in as long as everything else is good. Better to pull too much timing and find a problem, than not pull enough timing and make a problem BIGGER!!!
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That's what I needed to know. Thank you.
I understand the pulling recommended timing and rechecking to add more in but.. how do you know by reading the plugs you can add more back in? Are you looking at the timing line on the ground strap to determine this? Do you kill the engine immediately at the end of the pass or??
1995 Dakota Club Cab, 408, 5spd, 8 3/4 rear end
Couple new plugs in the staging lanes. Make a pass. Kill motor as soon as you can. Take the new plugs out, put the old plugs back in, drive to the pits and read plugs. Since you have a manual it'll be easy to kill the motor an coast. You just don't want any idle time.
Rinse repeat. I don't bother changing out all the plugs, just one on each side, but I'm not spraying either.
There's a good post in FAQs how to read plugs. It's an art.
11.27 @ 118.232017 NM Mopar Challenge Series Champion
Colder plugs will not reduce the chance of detonation! They don't even play a part in that! The heat range of a plug is the ability of the plug to cool itself. If you have too hot of a plug, you will burn the plug, that's all, but then you lost the ability to read the plug too.
As for timing, do you even know why you should pull timing? Matter of fact, do you even know what nitrous is and why it makes power? If you don't know the answers to all 3 of these questions, I strongly suggest you research before you use it.
But, here is a quick answer to the 3 questions.
pull timing? Nitrous causes the flame front to move super fast building a lot of cylinder pressure. If you combust the mixture early (same time as you would N/A), you will build too much cylinder pressure as the piston is coming up and break the piston. There are several factors that can affect how much timing to pull, piston top type (dome, flat top, dish), cam shaft valve events, compression ratio, etc. So every application could be different. Your plugs will tell you how much timing it wants
What is nitrous: 1 part oxygen, 2 part nitrogen. The extra oxygen (with the added extra fuel) is what gives you the extra power. Because it enters the combustion chamber at a much cooler temp (because of the properties of nitrous changing from a liquid to a gas when discharged into the motor), it also provides a very good intercooling affect.
Reading the plug is key. There is an art to running nitrous. I suggest having someone who really knows nitrous to go with you the first time to help you dial it in. It will be well worth it getting it right and having someone give you tips.
2000 Dakota, 5.9, 6lb Powerdyne, 13.33@106
When I said read plugs...I'm not doing it, I have a couple old timers I know read em, I'm not going to pretend I know how to a plug from looking at pictures.
11.27 @ 118.232017 NM Mopar Challenge Series Champion
too hot of a plug can easily cause pre ignition. Not a good thing to have... start with a small shot and with the generic 2* per 50hp and a jet spread recomded by the manufacturer. Thats a starting point. Timing mark will be on the strap and should be right at the bend. heat range will be color change in the threads (face and two-three threads is a good start). afr will be at the base of the porcelain.
If you think plugs will cause/solve pre-ignition/detonation issues, you are in for a world of hurt.
2000 Dakota, 5.9, 6lb Powerdyne, 13.33@106