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Thread: OBD1 to OBD2 Conversion---->Im going for it

  1. #26

    OldKota's Avatar
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    So here's what ive decided to do, since I have to weld o2 sensor bungs into my exhaust for the additional o2 sensor and the wideband anyway I decided to just upgrade the exhaust system entirely...originally there was a 2.5" y-pipe into a 3" pipe about 7 feet long into a single 3" in dual 2.5 out flowmaster... what I did was chopped up my y-pipe an converted in into a 2.5" front to back system with an x-pipe and two mufflers... I had my tailpipes sandblasted, reused all but the "y" of the y-pipe and installed all new in between.....I have a dual gauge a-pillar pod and am going to run one wideband from each bank to each of the holes on the pillar pad, I really only need one but thought two blinking lights look cooler than one and I needed to fill a hole anyway...... I don't have the widebands installed yet but all 4 o2 sensor bungs are welded into the pipe just 3 are currently plugged until I get a little more time to route some wiring... ill also be upgrading the fuel pump and a walbro 255lph and a 96 model pressure regulator which will be getting done along with the widebands prior to chopping the harness up so I can verify they all work prior to diving into the main harness...







    1995 Dakota Club Cab, 408, 5spd, 8 3/4 rear end

  2. #27

    98Dak408's Avatar
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    Nice job!

  3. #28

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    Quote Originally Posted by 98Dak408 View Post
    Nice job!
    For sure. Its coming along good.

    "The Dakota" 1995 RC Dakota 5.9 NV3500 Just hauls ass

    "The Dinggo" 5.2 Hauls the family

  4. #29

    OldKota's Avatar
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    ^^^ nice looking truck right there....

    Thanks guys...

    We'll see how nice of job as the harness goes together haha, welding pipes isn't hard..... put 30 miles on today, love how the new exhaust sounds, a little quieter/smoother at idle maybe but definatly sounds better when getting on it... engine sounds 'happier' and revs a little faster I think, cant say for sure if it helped with power but it surely didn't hurt....
    1995 Dakota Club Cab, 408, 5spd, 8 3/4 rear end

  5. #30
    Sick 660r's Avatar
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    Nice work on the exhaust.


    Quote Originally Posted by BluRT00 View Post
    Part your red sport out and buy a gen 2. Problem solved.

  6. #31
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    Real Nice work on the exhaust.
    But whats up with the big restriction on the down pipe? That pipe looks smaller,and Is it still stock manifolds? That's gotta be a choke point in the system.
    G-Man

  7. #32

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    Quote Originally Posted by G-Man View Post
    Real Nice work on the exhaust.
    But whats up with the big restriction on the down pipe? That pipe looks smaller,and Is it still stock manifolds? That's gotta be a choke point in the system.
    G-Man
    they are doug Thorley try-y headers..... the downpipes are 2.5 inch and match the rest of the system, must be an optical illusion from the picture... its 2.5 fron the header back
    1995 Dakota Club Cab, 408, 5spd, 8 3/4 rear end

  8. #33
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    Must be a Optical delusion.

  9. #34
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    looks like a venturi collector. Great for fine tuning but takes alot of trial and error. But seems to be just an optical illusion.

  10. #35

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    oh lol, I just built the part after where it bolts on, the headers are different lengths from side to side, guess I didn't even notice that...I think that's the collector part you guys are talking about, it does neck down and back up it looks like... that's part of the header itself.... I assume these headers are the same doug thorleys you guys run on your newer r/t's?? I have no idea really haha
    1995 Dakota Club Cab, 408, 5spd, 8 3/4 rear end

  11. #36

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    Wasn't planning this job till Monday but decided to go for it today.. Completed install of 255lph walbro pump and 96 Ram fuel pressure regulator, installed new tank straps which I painted before install and I cleaned and painted the tin fuel tank skid plate. didn't take a ton of pictures

    the fuel pump basket is completely different on my 95 vs the rt's I think, the blue rubber piece from the srt4 kit fit onto bottom of pump and reused the original upper pump grommet and then bolted in like stock with the stock filter (4.5" round 1.5" tall old style filter not a little net)


    the srt4 pump pressure line outlet connecter was a bit shorter then the original pump once I chopped off the extension piece (white thing in photo below is whats left of it) I used a nylon fuel line repair kit and shortened the brass barb and added additional nylon extension line to the original coiled nylon line from the pump up to the new regulator using a heat gun to refit the nylon line back onto the barbs and installed a new oe style crimp clamp on all the connections. I was happy to find that under that white connector/extension peice is a regular single 5/16" barb output which I attached the nylon line back to and crimped in place for a factory like setup...once I chopped off the extension piece I put the circle base of it back onto the pump because the original upper pump seal fit better and left only the barb coming out of the pump which was like my stock pump..I have no idea how the srt4 fuel line connects to this pump but it is way different then what was used on my truck, I'm glad the white extension piece came off the way it did or idk how it would've worked..


    I crimped and heat shrunk the wiring, the connector on my trucks module is an older style and the pins aren't even close to the same so this was the easiest option


    The result of my labors...50-52 psi from the new regulator (vs 40psi obd1 regulator) and increased flow from the pump vs the stocker, everything went together like a factory module with a little help... not sure if that's just me thinking it because it feels a little different or if I actually picked up a couple hp with the pump and the exhaust? haven't driven it a lot since the pump install but either way I'm on to the the last step before I'm ready to dig into the harness: the dual a/f guage a-pillar setup, hopefully I will get to that on my day off on Monday..
    Last edited by OldKota; 10-11-2015 at 03:01 AM.
    1995 Dakota Club Cab, 408, 5spd, 8 3/4 rear end

  12. #37

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    Final mod for a while: Complete... installed dual pillar mounted air fuel gauges...

    removed original wiring mess and gauges..


    wired up the new a/g gauges... will only be using the a/f guage on the lower guage and the upper guage will befor data logging and monitoring air fuel ratio.. I removed the lower gauge wiring for the datalogger circuit from the connector and wired the power and ground into the power and ground for the upper guage to help keep down the amount of wiring and crimped and heat shrunk the wiring.





    widebands in there final location....




    Finished product...
    1995 Dakota Club Cab, 408, 5spd, 8 3/4 rear end

  13. #38
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    Your superman bro. Nice work.
    1999 R/C Solar yellow

  14. #39

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    Ok, so this is going to be the last upgrade for a while....

    long story short, (still long sorry) the first time i drove the truck on a 10 mile ride after buying it (and installing the mopar pcm it was supposed to have came with but was actually a 318 computer) I got a code for cylinder 8 injector control circuit (obd1 code) and prior to driving it again I swapped the injector with cylinder 1 and the code never returned.. Untill last Saturday morning pulling out of my shed to install the fuel pump, but it set a cylinder 1 injector control circuit code this time, and after clearing and installing the pump and going on a 100 mile ride with no engine light (thank god not during the ride haha) it is repeatedly setting a cylinder 1 code and actually running poorly, having an obvious miss and immediate light coding cyl 1 inj circuit...funny enough my driver side a/f guage that was also recently installed has been showing 1 point leaner most of the time as well....

    original injectors at purchase were a f1te-d5a 4 hole 24lb ford.... new injectors are accel 150830 30lb er's

    a/f ratios reading much richer (11.8@startup) but the same side to side and went to 13.5 after 1 minute, I did a battery disconnect after startup which could have been some of its issue, only let it run for a minute before calling it a night, drive it tomorrow, i assume it'll learn itself how to run... felt smooth again at least, no MIL..

    picture for proof....

    1995 Dakota Club Cab, 408, 5spd, 8 3/4 rear end

  15. #40

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    Hey Chuck, I changed my fuel pump module in my '95 Dakota yesterday and dropped the tank. When I was putting it back together I couldn't remember at first the orientation of the heat shield in regard to which end is up. I checked your photos and realized that your heat shield is at the bottom of the tank where the stock placement is between the tank and the exhaust. You may have done this for a reason but I figured I'd point it out.

  16. #41

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    Quote Originally Posted by 98Dak408 View Post
    Hey Chuck, I changed my fuel pump module in my '95 Dakota yesterday and dropped the tank. When I was putting it back together I couldn't remember at first the orientation of the heat shield in regard to which end is up. I checked your photos and realized that your heat shield is at the bottom of the tank where the stock placement is between the tank and the exhaust. You may have done this for a reason but I figured I'd point it out.
    hold on a second, you mean yours is mounted on the side vertically between the tank and driveshaft?? I knew there was something goofy about that shields position, I can remember thinking to myself "who am I to question a dodge engineer" LOL...I thought maybe it was different on the manual trans trucks vs autos or something... the photos are before I did my fuel pump and where it was when I got it, after the fuel pump, however, I put it in the same spot, I thought it seemed a little weird shaped where it sticks out on the sides/front like it would catch and hold dirt but it fit in there like it was supposed to be there and that's how it was so I never thought much of it lol I guess I though of it to be more of a rock shield than a heat shield lol

    good catch though btw
    1995 Dakota Club Cab, 408, 5spd, 8 3/4 rear end

  17. #42

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    you know im going to have to fix that now or its gonna bother me knowing its wrong..... lol
    1995 Dakota Club Cab, 408, 5spd, 8 3/4 rear end

  18. #43

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    hold on a second, you mean yours is mounted on the side vertically between the tank and driveshaft?? I knew there was something goofy about that shields position, I can remember thinking to myself "who am I to question a dodge engineer" LOL...I thought maybe it was different on the manual trans trucks vs autos or something... the photos are before I did my fuel pump and where it was when I got it, after the fuel pump, however, I put it in the same spot, I thought it seemed a little weird shaped where it sticks out on the sides/front like it would catch and hold dirt but it fit in there like it was supposed to be there and that's how it was so I never thought much of it lol I guess I though of it to be more of a rock shield than a heat shield lol

    good catch though btw
    Yeah the cut-out goes toward the top.
    you know im going to have to fix that now or its gonna bother me knowing its wrong..... lol
    It was driving me nuts so I had to say something. lol

  19. #44

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    lol, that's good stuff, cant believe you noticed that... like I said I thought it looked weird compared to other dodges but I put it back in the way I found it lol

    if you find anything else in my pics out of place let me know so I can fix them too while im there
    1995 Dakota Club Cab, 408, 5spd, 8 3/4 rear end

  20. #45

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    Well I got a little busy there for a while but ive got a week of shop time (starting last sunday) set aside for myself and only have a half day of work tomorrow then off till next Monday...

    I got a little sidetracked with side winter projects these last few days though, homemade 2nd hand remodified caltracs lol(turned out nice) pulled the headliner and got it to the upholsters



    tomorrow I plan on getting going under the hood...

    Also since last updating I got a PCM from a 1996 manual trans 5.2 Dakota p/n 56040920 which will be more of a guarantee when tuning to not set codes and already recognized by SCT

    some more part numbers for future reference:
    4458199 one way vacuum valve at throttle body (I broke this, not related to swap)
    56027332 battery temp sensor
    53010000 egr gasket
    4300297 egr tube gasket
    1995 Dakota Club Cab, 408, 5spd, 8 3/4 rear end

  21. #46

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    Ok boys, I'm done talking and shit has gotten beyond real

    since there was so many parts to this project I broke them down into subgroups to keep track of my stuff better, first I removed the EGR valve, wiring and tube (no egr on 96 model) and installed blockoff plates.. next I installed the purge valve and a removed the 1995 vacuum line system and install the 1996 purge line/vacuum system, the connector from 95 changed to 96 for the purge solenoid but instead of chopping wires I simply disassembled the connector from the wiring terminals and installed the 96 connector onto my existing wires.... next step, I installed the battery temperature sensor into the battery tray which required drilling one hole and running one wire from the drivers to passenger side and connected the ground to the "sensor ground" circuit at a convienient location.....the next step was to get into the steering column wiring, the speed control (cruise) switch is different but the clockspring is the same, I disassembled the clockspring connector and removed one circuit completely and added a ground which I simply connected to a dash frame ground with other existing grounds and installed the new 3 button cruise switch... the last mini step was the datalink connector, ran through firewall using the wiring/connectors previously removed from the 96 dash harness and installed onto the reconditioned knee blocker panel and routed over to the pcm.... remember I'm a picky SOB and all the wiring modifications were using 100% factory wiring colors so diagnostics in the future will still be possible using factory schematics.... I got the truck running on the new computer and everything seemed to work but I have an engine light to look into, I left my scanner at work so I have to pick that up this morning then I can read codes, I did a key on key off test and I think I had 3-4 codes but it was late and I know a couple of them were because I left 4 injectors and the IAT unplugged on the first startup LOL (started right up and didn't run half bad with only the left bank firing lol) shut it off after about 2 seconds and then realized what I did.... I called it a night after that, still have to wrap the harness, route some stuff and some final 'tidy up' kinda things but everything going well so far and it has been started and I'm feeling good about everything especially since it started and ran well... heres a bunch of pictures in no particular order of which they were performed....

    shortened o2 sensor harness after soldering but before outer convoluted tubing reinstalled

    original wiring


    found a previously repaired section of wiring where butt connectors were used, I cut the white wire out and crimped/soldered/shrink wrapped in the proper wiring colors since I had them laying around


    I think this one is me lining stuff up wondering what I got myself into

    data link connector power source from fused B+ where power was tapped into above fuse box

    reconditioned knee blocker

    factory grommet with my dual a/f ratio gauges and the datalink connector silicone in place

    grommet from the inside

    repined clockspring connector and chassis ground to the right

    wrapping up the inside-just like a 96

    more contemplating WTF I am doing lol

    working through the circuits working from connector A (easiest) to C (hardest)

    almost out of wires!!!

    all wires crimped with brass bands, then soldered lightly, then Chryslers nasty gooey shrink wrap over top

    pile of left over tape and wires lol, my shop used to be clean... for a day or two

    how it stands now, waiting for a final wrap up... and removing the no longer used circuits from connector C (manual trans truck and pcm, auto trans donor harness=leftover wires, will disassemble the connector and remove the pins later)
    1995 Dakota Club Cab, 408, 5spd, 8 3/4 rear end

  22. #47

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    Read codes p0208 injector 8 control circuit and p0351 ignion coil A primary secondary circuit. The p0208 was easy, when removing the automatic trans circuits from the pcm connector I got the pin switched with the blank hole next to it so it want making connection, easy fix and luckily mixed with a blank terminal so that it didn't short out the pcm cyl 8 injector driver..

    the P0351 ignion coil A primary secondary circuit I think is related to my MSD box, obviously the circuits are good or it wouldn't start and run, my injector circuit from the pcm goes through a ton of connections from when it was installed that I discovered when I pulled the harness open more, going to shorten and eliminate some connections and look into it more later... I do know that you cant read a good circuit from the pcm to the coil on the coil output wire to the pcm because it goes through the MSD box

    any thoughts on the MSD box?
    1995 Dakota Club Cab, 408, 5spd, 8 3/4 rear end

  23. #48

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    Well I guess after 5 minutes of research I find that's pretty common code for our trucks with MSD, so ordered a tach adapter... i didn't come this far to leave one code that causes an engine light on
    1995 Dakota Club Cab, 408, 5spd, 8 3/4 rear end

  24. #49
    Mark's Avatar
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    Crazy bastard...
    1999 R/C Solar yellow

  25. #50

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    just went back to the shop for a couple minutes, this time the engine light didn't come on, it still set the code which I don't really care about, I'm gonna cancel my order of the tach adapter, maybe with the other code and engine light I just got confused, coulda swore it turned the light on with only that code after I fixed the connector wiring earlier....

    yea I'm pretty stoked, it went pretty good, I verified the a/c compressor kicked on, kinda cold to se if it still IS working but id have to assume at this point, wont really be able to check that still spring, other then needing to verify the cruise control works, fixing the msd box wiring, and taping the harness id say I'm done till spring when I can get a tune (It needs one pretty bad I can tell just idling lol), hopefully get that wrapped up tomorrow
    1995 Dakota Club Cab, 408, 5spd, 8 3/4 rear end

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