They shouldn't be difficult to loosen, maybe someone had it apart before and used something like red Loctite.
They shouldn't be difficult to loosen, maybe someone had it apart before and used something like red Loctite.
"Excuse me if I have some place in my mind, where I go time to time"
Remember lefty loosey. When you put the wrench on the bolt it should rotate towards the driver door.
Forged 408 12.10 @ 111mph under the knife again
just got it out and I'm going to wake up in 3 hrs to put the other one in THANKS to all the people who helped me with this
You better get that converter to a shop to check out, and check the flexplate for straightness after that ATV episode... jesus.
'99 R/T- MSIIextra fuel/spark/idle, ZCP mx422 supercharged, ZCP Tbrake 727, PPC 10" 3800, 4.10, (\/) Headers, 2.5" Duals, Truetrac, Boyd Timeless 6's, Hotchkis TVS.
Z Code Performance Website
My thoughts from the beginning of this thread were put the wrench down and step away from the vehicle.
1999 R/C Solar yellow
hopefully he knows how to put the converter, all the way, on the new trans.
i don't always crossthread a bolt, but when i do, i run that bitch in with my impact until it's tight!!!
Mods - TB Spacer, Short Throw Dipstick, Performance Auto Zone Intake "0.30 over bore", R/T Cam, Performance Chip, Radiator Delete
Rev limiter? that's what valve springs are for!
also you don't need to hold the crankshaft. As you are turning the bolts loose, the flexwheel will move up, and the ratchet/socket will hit the top preventing it from going up, so all the force will then transfer into loosening the nut
just sayin'
its back together guys thanks for all your help and the stupid comments
You have to have thick skin man! As much as we like to talk shit, we usually direct you in the right direction! Now, how's it run?
i put the one from my spare motor on but it seams to be ok
I would put a straight edge on it, or just toss it