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Thread: Type of oil

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    darkenedrt's Avatar
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    Default Type of oil

    What kind of oil are you guys running? Synthetic or conventional? What brand?

    I've been running Castrol full synthetic and I believe it's slipping past the rings because I've had to add a quart in the past 700 miles. No leaks and the plenum plate is aluminum so the gasket is fine and not burning off in there.

    Is it just this truck or do these 5.9's do better with conventional over synthetic?

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    chrgr340's Avatar
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    I've always just run Valvoline conventional in my Magnum motors.

    Steve - 1999 Flame Red RC R/T-56
    Comp Cams | F&B | Mopar | Spintech | SCT | Hotchkis


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    Hugh Jassole's Avatar
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    rotella synthetic
    "the vast majority of the people on this website are such tight asses that they could probably squeeze out diamonds - but they'd never spend the money to buy the coal' - Steve F. 2012

    "Don't be obsessed with your desires Danny. The Zen philosopher Basho once wrote, "A flute with no holes is not a flute, and a doughnut with no hole is a Danish" - Ty Webb, 1980

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    Osee's Avatar
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    I used to always run Shell conventional 10w30, but now I switched to Lucas Synthetic 5w30 (I wanted 10w30 and had a brain fart and asked for a case of 5w30) next time I'll put in 10w30. I usually run 5w30 conventional shell in the winter in my 4.7 Dak and 10w30 conventional shell in the summer.

    on a side note, isn't it bad to switch from synthetic back to regular because synthetic puts almost like a barrier/coatings on the bearings that comes off when you stop using it?


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    Motorhead's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Osee View Post
    ............on a side note, isn't it bad to switch from synthetic back to regular because synthetic puts almost like a barrier/coatings on the bearings that comes off when you stop using it?
    It used to be the other way around and this is why:

    Early synthetics got a bad reputation for leaking. This was because, despite the claims of the oil manufacturers, the seal-swell characteristics of the new synthetics were different from those of the mineral oils they replaced. If the seal-swell rate was lower, the seals shrank and oil leaked from crankshaft seals and rocker cover seals. If the rate was higher, the seals swelled a little extra and the engine was tight. Then if the owner changed back to mineral oil, or added a quart when no synthetic was to be had, things got really bad. The crank seals had become worn, in their turgid state, and then relaxed. The valve cover seals were compressed when swelled, and when the different oil was added, everything leaked like, well, an old English sports car.

    Fortunately, the situation has improved; you should have no problem switching back and forth. Adding a quart of mineral oil to a crankcase full of synthetic will be fine. Read the fine print -- a lot of the "synthetics" on the market are blends containing a substantial proportion of mineral oil.
    Your problem isn't the problem. Your reaction is the problem.

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    niebs's Avatar
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    synthetics will still tend to "weep" more cause the actually make up of molecules are smaller than conventional. but yes, there's no issue with switching back and forth anymore. i run mobile one syn.
    have you checked your pcv lately?

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    krs1r/t's Avatar
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    Brad penn GREEN

    Bad Luck Truck
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    „R„block 429ci W5 heads 700hp N/A
    1/8 mile #'s 6.47@105 1.37 60’ 10.23@131

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    Broo42's Avatar
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    I run Rotella 10w30 Conventional in mine. The SRT4 gets Rotella 5w40 Synthetic.
    2004 SRT4 Moar Pah Coming DD
    2002 Dakota R/T 12.376@110.84


    "Is there any way to make this easier? I'm way confused now. I just tried to post a video, but instead I got my dick caught in the ceiling fan" Wyotech_Cuda440

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    Didn't think about the pcv... I'll take a look at it. Remind me how you tell if they're bad.

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    Pennzoil 10w-30
    - Josh

    2000 Solar Yellow R/T - Cam Only Truck
    1987 Buick Regal T-Type - WE4 and Blackout
    2008 GMC 1500 Quad Cab
    1989 Jeep YJ - Real Jeeps have Square Headlights
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    Broo42's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by KTK00R/T View Post
    Pennzoil 10w-30
    You don't like yellow, do you?
    2004 SRT4 Moar Pah Coming DD
    2002 Dakota R/T 12.376@110.84


    "Is there any way to make this easier? I'm way confused now. I just tried to post a video, but instead I got my dick caught in the ceiling fan" Wyotech_Cuda440

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    FlyinRyan's Avatar
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    Rotella T6 in everything
    RYAN/TUNED

    Got questions?!? Get the answers ->>> http://www.dakotart.com/forum/showth...estions-thread
    For fastest response please text or email at ryan@frptuning.com ,please no PM's!!!

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    KTK00R/T's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Broo42 View Post
    You don't like yellow, do you?
    Haha, I actually don't... I refuse to buy another yellow anything.. too damn bright.. More of an opportunity, turned out to be a rare one
    - Josh

    2000 Solar Yellow R/T - Cam Only Truck
    1987 Buick Regal T-Type - WE4 and Blackout
    2008 GMC 1500 Quad Cab
    1989 Jeep YJ - Real Jeeps have Square Headlights
    1971 Buick Skylark - LS SWAP THE WORLD

  14. #14

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    Quote Originally Posted by darkenedrt View Post
    Didn't think about the pcv... I'll take a look at it. Remind me how you tell if they're bad.
    Take it out, shake it, and it should "click" back and forth with minimal resistance. Just replace it anyway though, costs like $1.99
    - 99' Dodge Dakota R/T CC -
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  15. #15
    clrwatrtomsrt's Avatar
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    i go back and forth between rotella t6 and mobil 1, which ever is cheaper at purchase time. i run these in everything. Just the change intervals between normally aspirated and turbocharged applications.

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    krs1r/t's Avatar
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    Zinc. Look into it

    Bad Luck Truck
    Current setup
    „R„block 429ci W5 heads 700hp N/A
    1/8 mile #'s 6.47@105 1.37 60’ 10.23@131

    Old 1/4 numbers below with 408
    Fastest N/A 2010,2011,2014
    477-RWHP ?-RWTQ

    11.244 ET @ 119.71mph N/A
    FOXHOLE RACING
    "If you like me good, if you hate me, even better!"
    Chris

  17. #17
    Sick 660r's Avatar
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    Brad penn. Mobil one didn't have crap for pressure at idle onece warm. Switch to brad penn and all is good.


    Quote Originally Posted by BluRT00 View Post
    Part your red sport out and buy a gen 2. Problem solved.

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    darkenedrt's Avatar
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    I replaced the pcv so we'll so if that does the trick. The old one was rattling but who knows, it might have been bad still.

  19. #19
    clrwatrtomsrt's Avatar
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    i recently saw zinc mentioned and that ethanol in today's fuel kills zinc levels in oil. Oh, what to do? Until i get l the new motor done i'm probably good with my plan as i am currently running a junkyard motor. but when the new motor is done, i will probably be running a full synthetic, ester based oil like Motul, providing it meets the zinc levels recommended, if not, i will look for a zinc additive.

  20. #20




    slammedR/T's Avatar
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    Mobil 1 15-40w is a high zinc oil which is what i run but will prolly be switching to a penzoil 10w30 with a zinc additive when my motor is done.
    This signature has been deleted thanks to photobucket!

  21. #21

    Hugh Jassole's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by slammedR/T View Post
    Mobil 1 15-40w is a high zinc oil which is what i run but will prolly be switching to a penzoil 10w30 with a zinc additive when my motor is done.
    how come ?
    "the vast majority of the people on this website are such tight asses that they could probably squeeze out diamonds - but they'd never spend the money to buy the coal' - Steve F. 2012

    "Don't be obsessed with your desires Danny. The Zen philosopher Basho once wrote, "A flute with no holes is not a flute, and a doughnut with no hole is a Danish" - Ty Webb, 1980

  22. #22

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    Valvoline. 300,000 plus and still going.

  23. #23
    Bearded Bastard

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    I'd have to dig up the link but while doing zinc research for my old work truck (81 ram w250 318) I discovered anything labeled with the API star seal has MINIMAL zinc levels. The fed decided it had to go because it was destroying cats at 300K miles. You have to get a specialty oil, diesel oil, or a race oil to get the enhanced zinc levels. I scored a close out on Valvoline syn race oil from oreillys about a year ago.



    Here's some of the info I was talking about

    http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums...71&type=thread
    Last edited by RC Kota; 07-25-2015 at 10:48 PM.

    US Army Vet and ASE Certified Automotive Technician

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  24. #24
    Bearded Bastard

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    Here's an important read when it comes to zinc.


    http://www.enginebuildermag.com/2008...ives-got-zinc/

    US Army Vet and ASE Certified Automotive Technician

    When life gives you lemons, make orange juice and leave the world wondering how you did it!

  25. #25
    Bearded Bastard

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    look on the back of the rotella bottle - if it's rated SM, it'll have 800ppm of zinc..if it says CJ- 4, it'll have about 1200ppm of zinc..if it says CI - 4 , it'll have more than 1200, and would be considered a "high zinc" oil.

    zinc is an anti wear additive. Sulfur, and Phosphorus are as well, and the new for 2007 CJ -4 oils feature reduced amounts of these ingredients, as to not foul the DPF's.



    Pulled from a diesel forum

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