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Thread: Battery Relocation Tray: Personal Project

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    98Dak408's Avatar
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    Default Battery Relocation Tray: Personal Project

    I decided to relocate the battery toward the rear of my Dakota to help with weight distribution. Since I will be running a side pipe type exhaust system and no longer have the exhaust running between the passenger’s side frame rail and driveshaft, I plan to mount this tray to the frame rail on the passenger’s side where the stock muffler used to be placed. Now I have to position the tray where I want it to go and figure out how to fasten it to the frame rail. I have some ideas but they may just lead to something else. As it is, this battery tray is nowhere near what the first idea looked like. The flat strap/crossbrace with the hole is for the OEM battery temperature sensor.



    Last edited by 98Dak408; 05-31-2015 at 02:22 PM.

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    blackknight's Avatar
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    Nice work! Wheelabrated parts weld much nicer!

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    ScojoDak's Avatar
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    Git-R-Done
    If you haven't lived for something, you'll die for nothing.

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    krs1r/t's Avatar
    want more inchs STROKE IT

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    Very nice Richard as always

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    Duner's Avatar
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    Nice work.

    Do you carry a spare in the factory location?
    Are you ever ging to the track with it?
    Duner
    4.7 Turbocharged CC in white - 12's
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    Thanks guys!

    Do you carry a spare in the factory location?
    Are you ever ging to the track with it?
    Yes I carry the spare since this is primarily a street toy. Otherwise, that’s likely where it would have gone. For drag racing, placing the battery further back is beneficial. For handling purposes, I think placing it closer to the center of the vehicle helps. I’d like to take it to the track at some point just for fun. I need to determine what the rules are for battery relocation and whether it is mandatory to have a cut-off switch at the rear of the vehicle, etc. I'm pretty sure I need the cut-off switch and may place it behind a flip-up license plate that can be removed when at the track. Doing so may also prevent some punk from switching the power off on me at a local restaurant for a prank. lol
    Last edited by 98Dak408; 05-31-2015 at 12:41 PM.

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    NHRA Rules

    http://www.nhra.com/UserFiles/File/2...2_03-22-12.pdf

    BATTERIES
    Batteries must be securely mounted; may not be located in driver compartment.
    Relocated battery(s) must be fastened to frame or frame structure with a minimum of two 3/8-inch-diameter bolts. See General Regulations 8:1.

    MASTER CUTOFF
    Mandatory on any car with a battery running 9.99 (6.39*) or quicker, any car exceeding 135 mph, or any car where the battery is relocated into the trunk area. See General Regulations 8:4.


    http://www.nhra.com/UserFiles/file/G...egulations.pdf

    8:1 BATTERIES
    All batteries must be securely mounted; must be of sufficient
    capacity to start vehicle at any time. Batteries may not be relocated
    into the driver or passenger compartments. Rear firewall of .024-
    inch steel or .032-inch aluminum (including package tray) required
    when battery is relocated in trunk. In lieu of rear firewall, battery
    may be located in a sealed .024-inch steel, .032-inch aluminum, or
    NHRA-accepted poly box. If sealed box is used in lieu of rear
    firewall, box may not be used to secure battery and must be vented
    outside of body. Relocated battery(s) must be fastened to frame or
    frame structure with a minimum of two 3/8-inch-diameter bolts.
    OEM located batteries without complete OEM hold-down hardware
    must be secured to OEM battery box/tray using the same 3/8-inch
    diameter bolt hold-down method described in previous sentence.
    (“J” hooks prohibited or must have open end welded shut.) Metal
    battery hold-down straps mandatory. Strapping tape prohibited. A
    maximum of two automobile batteries, or 150 pounds combined
    maximum weight (unless otherwise specified in Class
    Requirements), is permitted. Maximums may vary according to
    Class Requirements.


    8:4 MASTER CUTOFF
    Mandatory when battery is relocated, or as outlined in Class
    Requirements. An electrical power cutoff switch (one only) must be
    installed on the rearmost part of each vehicle and be easily
    accessible from outside the car body. This cutoff switch must be
    connected to the positive side of the electrical system and must
    stop all electrical functions including magneto ignition. The off
    position must be clearly indicated with the word “OFF.” If switch is
    “push/pull” type, “push” must be the action for shutting off the
    electrical system, “pull” to turn it on. Any rods or cables used to
    activate the switch must be minimum 1/8-inch diameter. Plastic or
    keyed switches prohibited. Switches and/or controls must be
    located behind rear wheels on rear-engine dragsters.

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    SCCA Rules

    http://scca.cdn.racersites.com/prod/...categories.pdf

    http://scca.cdn.racersites.com/prod/...20February.pdf

    9.3.9. BATTERIES
    Battery location is unrestricted within the bodywork (except Spec Miata, Touring, and Improved Touring). If located in the driver/passenger com¬partment, vented wet cell batteries shall be in a nonconductive marine type container or equivalent. The hot terminal shall be insulated on all cars. All batteries (on-board power supplies) shall be attached securely to the frame or chassis structure independent of the marine type container.

    9.3.34. MASTER SWITCH
    All cars, except Touring shall be equipped with a master switch easily accessible from outside the car. Spec Racer Fords shall be wired per RFSRII. The master switch shall be installed directly in either battery cable GCR - 104 9. Cars and Equipment
    and shall cut all electrical circuits but not an on-board fire system. All terminals of the master switch shall be insulated to prevent shorting out. It shall be clearly marked by the international marking of a spark in a blue triangle and mounted in a standard location. Off position shall be clearly indicated at the master switch location. The standard locations shall be as follows:
    A. Formula and Sports Racing Cars–In proximity to the right-hand member of the roll bar, but in a location so that it cannot be oper¬ated accidentally. It can be mounted on a bracket welded to the inside of the upright member or mounted so that the operating lever or knob is outside of the body panel immediately in-board of the upright member. This is the standard location on Formula cars built to the Constructor’s Association requirements for Formula 1.
    B. Closed Sports Racing Cars, Production Cars, Improved Touring and GT Cars–In front of the windshield on either the cowl or on top of the fender, but close enough to the windshield to be accessible if the car is overturned. Alternatively, it may be mounted below the center of the rear window or on a bracket welded, clamped or bolted to the roll cage or dash, easily accessible through the open window. (Drilling of holes in roll cage to attach the bracket is prohibited.)
    C. Open Production, GT, and Improved Touring Cars–May exercise a choice among the above locations.

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    Made a couple of supports for the PDC that bolt through existing holes. This was necessary due to the removal of the OEM battery box which supported the PDC. I'm not totally happy with this and may change it in the future but it is good enough for now.
    Last edited by 98Dak408; 05-31-2015 at 07:23 PM.

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    Broo42's Avatar
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    Looks great! I need to relocate mine to under the bed.
    2004 SRT4 Moar Pah Coming DD
    2002 Dakota R/T 12.376@110.84


    "Is there any way to make this easier? I'm way confused now. I just tried to post a video, but instead I got my dick caught in the ceiling fan" Wyotech_Cuda440

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    Quote Originally Posted by 98Dak408 View Post
    Made a couple of supports for the PDC that bolt through existing holes. This was necessary due to the removal of the OEM battery box which supported the PDC. I'm not totally happy with this and may change it in the future but it is good enough for now.

    You should carry these
    - Josh

    2000 Solar Yellow R/T - Cam Only Truck
    1987 Buick Regal T-Type - WE4 and Blackout
    2008 GMC 1500 Quad Cab
    1989 Jeep YJ - Real Jeeps have Square Headlights
    1971 Buick Skylark - LS SWAP THE WORLD

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    Steve '02CC's Avatar
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    I'm curious as to what you guys do about protecting circuits for batteries that are relocated back in the bed. For example the wire to the PDC has no fuse because the factory setup has it just a few inches away from the battery, but if it's in or under your bed then now you're talking feet. Then you have the line to the starter that even in the factory setup is about 2' away, unfused (because it can't really be fused), and is not even protected with a relay. The alternator wire seems especially problematic because unlike the other wires the source of the current could come from either side of this one. With it running to the bed wouldn't both ends need to be protected by a fuse to protected fully against shorts?

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    Sick 660r's Avatar
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    FWIW I just put both wires on the same terminal of the switch when I don't plan on using it. I have too many friends that would jump out of the car at a red light just to flip the switch lol


    Quote Originally Posted by BluRT00 View Post
    Part your red sport out and buy a gen 2. Problem solved.

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    KTK00R/T's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sick 660r View Post
    FWIW I just put both wires on the same terminal of the switch when I don't plan on using it. I have too many friends that would jump out of the car at a red light just to flip the switch lol
    Luckily mine don't jack with me that much..
    - Josh

    2000 Solar Yellow R/T - Cam Only Truck
    1987 Buick Regal T-Type - WE4 and Blackout
    2008 GMC 1500 Quad Cab
    1989 Jeep YJ - Real Jeeps have Square Headlights
    1971 Buick Skylark - LS SWAP THE WORLD

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    DRTC #311

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    Quote Originally Posted by KTK00R/T View Post
    You should carry these
    i'd buy one!

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    Quote Originally Posted by Pete102580 View Post
    i'd buy one!
    x2 Mine just flops around hahaha
    - Josh

    2000 Solar Yellow R/T - Cam Only Truck
    1987 Buick Regal T-Type - WE4 and Blackout
    2008 GMC 1500 Quad Cab
    1989 Jeep YJ - Real Jeeps have Square Headlights
    1971 Buick Skylark - LS SWAP THE WORLD

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    Quote Originally Posted by Steve '02CC View Post
    I'm curious as to what you guys do about protecting circuits for batteries that are relocated back in the bed. For example the wire to the PDC has no fuse because the factory setup has it just a few inches away from the battery, but if it's in or under your bed then now you're talking feet. Then you have the line to the starter that even in the factory setup is about 2' away, unfused (because it can't really be fused), and is not even protected with a relay. The alternator wire seems especially problematic because unlike the other wires the source of the current could come from either side of this one. With it running to the bed wouldn't both ends need to be protected by a fuse to protected fully against shorts?
    I fuse everything with a 200 amp fuse between the Battery + and cut off switch, and everything feeds off that. If it blows, everything is dead.
    11.27 @ 118.23
    2017 NM Mopar Challenge Series Champion

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    I fuse everything with a 200 amp fuse between the Battery + and cut off switch, and everything feeds off that. If it blows, everything is dead.
    So you're running one 200 amp circuit breaker and have blown that? Apparently, you can run two 200 amp circuit breakers in parallel and have a total of a 400 amp circuit. I'm thinking this is how I am going to run mine. You may even be able to find a higher amp breaker to run in parallel for a higher rate of protection.

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    Quote Originally Posted by 98Dak408 View Post
    So you're running one 200 amp circuit breaker and have blown that? Apparently, you can run two 200 amp circuit breakers in parallel and have a total of a 400 amp circuit. I'm thinking this is how I am going to run mine. You may even be able to find a higher amp breaker to run in parallel for a higher rate of protection.
    It's never blown, the 200 amp fuse goes straight to the alternator, I do have another cable with 130 amp that powers everything else, what is essentially my PDC.
    11.27 @ 118.23
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    98Dak408's Avatar
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    Which circuit goes to the starter motor? I assume it's the 200amp?

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    Quote Originally Posted by 98Dak408 View Post
    Which circuit goes to the starter motor? I assume it's the 200amp?
    No...200 amp goes straight to Alternator, 130 amp feeds everything else including starter.
    11.27 @ 118.23
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    No...200 amp goes straight to Alternator, 130 amp feeds everything else including starter.
    Wow! Low drag I guess!? Good to know.

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    Quote Originally Posted by 98Dak408 View Post
    Wow! Low drag I guess!? Good to know.
    I'll double check Thursday as I'll be under the truck, but I always get the motor spinning, then I hit the fuel pump & ignition, once it starts the water pump and fan.
    11.27 @ 118.23
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    I made the bottom mounts for the tray and connected it to the frame. Now I will work on the top support braces to connect to the upper portion of the frame.


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    Looking good sir!

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