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Thread: "Push it to the limit"

  1. #26
    Sick 660r's Avatar
    gen III traitor

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    Daves hooked on making memes LOL


    Quote Originally Posted by BluRT00 View Post
    Part your red sport out and buy a gen 2. Problem solved.

  2. #27

    Corey's Avatar
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    Your list of engine build wants, makes my list look like a trip to the 99 Cent Only Store! Have fun with it, and remember, there is always someone faster, but it is consistency that will get you the win.

    99-cents-only-store-sign_1392265885440_2881440_ver1.0_640_480.jpg
    DRTC #1176

    2000 Bright White CC (1/553)
    Dyno'ed 07/05/13 (126,000 Miles) 230 Hp / 308 Tq
    14.6 @ 93 mph (2.18 60 ft.), 4130 lbs.(1/2 tank gas)
    Truck Pictures --> http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v9...Clough/Dakota/

    1985 Kawasaki GPz550
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    Mater: I don’t need to know where I’m goin’, I just need to know where I been!

  3. #28



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    Quote Originally Posted by Sick 660r View Post
    Daves hooked on making memes LOL
    11.27 @ 118.23
    2017 NM Mopar Challenge Series Champion

  4. #29
    Osee's Avatar
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    Ok so when a hydro roller sounds like a solid roller out of adjustment it's time for new lifters, so I might aswell do the cam swap.

    PIE Turbo cam 218/224 .565 114 with Crane 1.6 adj rr's with the stud kit
    Hughes Stainless Valves 1.92/1.62, .625 lift springs, and hughes retainers
    replacement stock lifters

    I'll need to cut the guides down approximately .150, so I'll need a .530 guide cutter and 5/16 arbour because they don't make a 8mm version correct?

    http://www.jegs.com/i/COMP-Cams/249/...oductId=773415
    http://www.jegs.com/i/COMP-Cams/249/...oductId=773415

    Also need to buy comp hardened pushrod guides, and a pushrod length checker.

    http://www.jegs.com/i/COMP+Cams/249/4825-8/10002/-1
    http://www.jegs.com/i/COMP+Cams/249/7702-1/10002/-1

    which 12pt head studs do I need 144-4201?

    http://www.jegs.com/i/ARP/070/144-4201/10002/-1


    Mods - TB Spacer, Short Throw Dipstick, Performance Auto Zone Intake "0.30 over bore", R/T Cam, Performance Chip, Radiator Delete

    Rev limiter? that's what valve springs are for!

  5. #30
    Osee's Avatar
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    going with 144-4203 head studs

    anyone know about the guide cutter?


    Mods - TB Spacer, Short Throw Dipstick, Performance Auto Zone Intake "0.30 over bore", R/T Cam, Performance Chip, Radiator Delete

    Rev limiter? that's what valve springs are for!

  6. #31
    Osee's Avatar
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    Got all the parts in for doing the top end, just need the adj pushrod to come in, and I need a water pump gasket and timing cover gasket. Once I fix the other dakota so I can daily it, I'll tear into the R/T. Really want to do a compression test, raced my dad's bone stock R/T yesterday and he beat me bad, in 1 1/2 blocks he had a good truck length on me and was still pulling.



    Mods - TB Spacer, Short Throw Dipstick, Performance Auto Zone Intake "0.30 over bore", R/T Cam, Performance Chip, Radiator Delete

    Rev limiter? that's what valve springs are for!

  7. #32
    Osee's Avatar
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    Spintech Longtubes came back from getting coated!




    Mods - TB Spacer, Short Throw Dipstick, Performance Auto Zone Intake "0.30 over bore", R/T Cam, Performance Chip, Radiator Delete

    Rev limiter? that's what valve springs are for!

  8. #33
    Osee's Avatar
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    Is there any way to remove the rad and pull the motor/trans without letting the freon out of the A/C system? I got a little antsy this afternoon.




    Mods - TB Spacer, Short Throw Dipstick, Performance Auto Zone Intake "0.30 over bore", R/T Cam, Performance Chip, Radiator Delete

    Rev limiter? that's what valve springs are for!

  9. #34
    Osee's Avatar
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    [QUOTE=Osee;505882]Is there any way to remove the rad and pull the motor/trans without letting the freon out of the A/C system? I got a little antsy this afternoon.

    Bump


    Mods - TB Spacer, Short Throw Dipstick, Performance Auto Zone Intake "0.30 over bore", R/T Cam, Performance Chip, Radiator Delete

    Rev limiter? that's what valve springs are for!

  10. #35

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    Skateboarding near parts is dangerous. You could slip, fall and break something.... from that table.


    Regarding the engine... is dropping it out from underneath an option?
    2003 Black CC R/T, 1 of (less than) 376

  11. #36

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    On my 99 Durango, I could remove the fan, then the shroud and radiator, from there the condenser & receiver/dryer can be easily detached, and CAREFULLY moved out of your way. Then you should be able to remove the cross brace and core support.

    Your's can't be to much different than my Gen 1 Durango Good luck! May your extraction be a smooth one

  12. #37
    Osee's Avatar
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    Too late guys.



    I think I'll just yank the heads off with the motor in, unless I'm feeling overly motivated then I'll pull it out but I don't really need too.


    Mods - TB Spacer, Short Throw Dipstick, Performance Auto Zone Intake "0.30 over bore", R/T Cam, Performance Chip, Radiator Delete

    Rev limiter? that's what valve springs are for!

  13. #38
    Osee's Avatar
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    Here's a mock up with the intake sitting on the truck (sorry about the Ford motors in the background)





    Mods - TB Spacer, Short Throw Dipstick, Performance Auto Zone Intake "0.30 over bore", R/T Cam, Performance Chip, Radiator Delete

    Rev limiter? that's what valve springs are for!

  14. #39
    Osee's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dark(a)RT View Post
    Skateboarding near parts is dangerous. You could slip, fall and break something.... from that table.


    Regarding the engine... is dropping it out from underneath an option?
    Me and my brothers use them to get around the Honey House real quick, takes for ever to walk from one end to the other.


    Mods - TB Spacer, Short Throw Dipstick, Performance Auto Zone Intake "0.30 over bore", R/T Cam, Performance Chip, Radiator Delete

    Rev limiter? that's what valve springs are for!

  15. #40
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    Got the exhaust manifolds off last night, had no issues with any of the bolts going into the head, but the ones going to the down pipe only took 2 hours getting them off, they didn't break (which would've been ideal) but the heads stripped on the up parts. Finally got them off and took my first head off, cylinder walls look great! no ring ridge and all the crosshatching is still there, only some minor vertical marks. heads look nice and clean in the chambers too, and the seats aren't pitted, should be an easy job seating the new valves, although some intake valves were baaaaaaarely sealing.










    Mods - TB Spacer, Short Throw Dipstick, Performance Auto Zone Intake "0.30 over bore", R/T Cam, Performance Chip, Radiator Delete

    Rev limiter? that's what valve springs are for!

  16. #41
    Osee's Avatar
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    Haven't been able to touch the truck for 2 weeks been so busy, but had time to borrow my friend die grinder and clean up the head castings a bit.








    Also found the crack in my heads "Better throw them away because they're junk now"




    Mods - TB Spacer, Short Throw Dipstick, Performance Auto Zone Intake "0.30 over bore", R/T Cam, Performance Chip, Radiator Delete

    Rev limiter? that's what valve springs are for!

  17. #42
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    Replaced the hack job of the old belt wrap pulley that the previous owner made with the one Todd made, although I still used the old bigger pulley I had.








    Mods - TB Spacer, Short Throw Dipstick, Performance Auto Zone Intake "0.30 over bore", R/T Cam, Performance Chip, Radiator Delete

    Rev limiter? that's what valve springs are for!

  18. #43
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    Finally had time to pull the other head off, and get the cam out. I'm not even surprised the cam bearings are toast. What's the easiest way to go about changing the cam bearings with the block in the truck, and which replacement bearings should I get?











    Mods - TB Spacer, Short Throw Dipstick, Performance Auto Zone Intake "0.30 over bore", R/T Cam, Performance Chip, Radiator Delete

    Rev limiter? that's what valve springs are for!

  19. #44
    niebs's Avatar
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    think its time to pull that block. Dont think you can change cam bearings out with it in there. Most have to drive out from the rear of the block.

  20. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by niebs View Post
    think its time to pull that block. Dont think you can change cam bearings out with it in there. Most have to drive out from the rear of the block.
    couldn't I just push the bearings out from front to back, then reinstall the new ones from the front again? I wont be able to do the very last one past the Dizzy but it's not that bad.


    Mods - TB Spacer, Short Throw Dipstick, Performance Auto Zone Intake "0.30 over bore", R/T Cam, Performance Chip, Radiator Delete

    Rev limiter? that's what valve springs are for!

  21. #46
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    The two front cam bearings install from the back. the rest install from the front ,and you need to make sure to get the oil holes lined up in the gallery . If by chance you Fubar the back bearing you'll need to pull the engine anyway. You've already disconnected the AC . it's a short-haul to get the rest of the engine and transmission out together.

  22. #47
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    Just my 2 cents, but go ahead and pull the motor, and go thru it, your almost there already, you will be much happier with a fresh engine.
    G-Man

  23. #48
    Osee's Avatar
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    Got a set of Josh's port plates in today, they're some nice pieces! I'll be needing a "little" port matching though I'm presuming that ARP head studs don't cause an issue with 1pc port plates?






    Mods - TB Spacer, Short Throw Dipstick, Performance Auto Zone Intake "0.30 over bore", R/T Cam, Performance Chip, Radiator Delete

    Rev limiter? that's what valve springs are for!

  24. #49

    Kingst3r's Avatar
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    Head studs work with his port plates.

    My R/T build (rebuild) thread

    http://www.dakota-durango.com/forum/...d.php?t=133167
    Quote Originally Posted by 70Cuda383 View Post
    It's an emissions thing. someone, somewhere said that the millions of gallons of gas that evaporate to the atmosphere every year was killing tree frogs on some south african isalnd or some shit, those endangered tree frogs can suck my left nut.

  25. #50
    Osee's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kingst3r View Post
    Head studs work with his port plates.
    Thanks!


    Mods - TB Spacer, Short Throw Dipstick, Performance Auto Zone Intake "0.30 over bore", R/T Cam, Performance Chip, Radiator Delete

    Rev limiter? that's what valve springs are for!

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