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Thread: "Push it to the limit"

  1. #1
    Osee's Avatar
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    Default "Push it to the limit"

    I suppose it's time I made a post for my build

    Current Mods

    -4.56 gears
    -2.5 inch duals from the Cat's back with Flowmaster Delta 40's
    -Hand ported stock Throttle Body
    -Doug Lee Top Cover stainless steel fabricated valve covers

    This Sunday I will be driving up to Chad's (99blackrt) place to pick up a Vortech V1 kit, with 42lb injectors, and a 2 bar map. Huge thanks to him for helping me get everything sorted out a splitting shipping costs! Then my boosted build will commence!

    Currently Purchased Parts
    -Vortech V1 kit
    -42lb injectors
    -Crane Cams adjustable 1.6 RR's
    -OBX stainless shorty headers
    -Speedmaster 1200 CFM 4 bbl billet throttle body
    -Double roller timing chain
    -Caltracs
    -Viper 3000 stall converter
    -Transgo shift kit
    -Edelbrock IAS shocks
    -AutoMeter Mopar Series Analog Boost Gauge 880012
    -AutoMeter Mopar Series Analog Trans Temp Gauge 880019

    Shopping list
    -Edelbrock Super Victor Intake
    -Edelbrock fuel rails
    -Milodon 4x4 8qt oil pan (and getting an -AN fitting welded in for the Vortech oil line)
    -Mishimoto Large Aluminum Oil Catch Can MMOCC-LA (will be getting the breathers cut off the valve covers and -AN fittings welded in place)
    -Billet Trans servos, accumilator, borg/warner solenoid, kevlar bands
    -Derale deep trans pan with cooling tubes
    -Derale deep pan pickup
    -Hayden 679 Trans cooler
    -Inovative wide band
    -ProParts P93013 Triple gauge pod
    -Electric rad fan
    -Get the headers ceramic coated
    -Remove the Cat's and get pipes with bungs made up
    -325/45r17 M&H's

    The plan is to keep pushing the Vortech until I run out of boost or break something and see what the truck makes for power.

    Long Term Parts Goals
    -CNC Eddies or maaaaaybe W9's
    -Custom cam grind
    -fuel cell were spare tire is
    -Program billet 4 bolt main caps
    -Bell tech 1" frond drop and 2 or 3" rear
    -Slotted front rotors
    -4 pistol calipers up front
    -move front calipers/disk to the rear
    -Bulletproof Forged 360 or 408
    -Twin Turbos
    -Indy 360-3m or W9 intake


    Mods - TB Spacer, Short Throw Dipstick, Performance Auto Zone Intake "0.30 over bore", R/T Cam, Performance Chip, Radiator Delete

    Rev limiter? that's what valve springs are for!

  2. #2

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    best of luck on your build
    2000 CC
    11.37@122


  3. #3


    Danno's Avatar
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    Let me know how serious you are about those W9's. I have a BNIB set of bare ones, with the tall deck intake for use on a standard block that I might entertain getting rid of.

    99 DA RC To Be Discovered AKA Smokey
    98 DA CC 11.59@118 AKA Barney

    [Duner] : I was afraid I was going to go too fast and scare myself. Lucky for me - the DA rose up to save me.

    [Kotta390] : Oh that's right! Well FML.....Looks like I am getting shafted because of my bore size

    [BlakDak71] : I don't run oil, I run a special blend consisting of Hellman's mayo and the tears of a pregnant mermaid

    [Kotta390] : My electric water pump puts out too much fuel at idle and is not a variable pump which makes it overheat in the summer at idle if I sit too long

    [KotaRT] : Ed, you can have cake, as long as I get something in return

  4. #4
    Osee's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Danno View Post
    Let me know how serious you are about those W9's. I have a BNIB set of bare ones, with the tall deck intake for use on a standard block that I might entertain getting rid of.
    Ok Noted! I wouldn't be buying them this year though its a future idea, keep me on your buyers list though.


    Mods - TB Spacer, Short Throw Dipstick, Performance Auto Zone Intake "0.30 over bore", R/T Cam, Performance Chip, Radiator Delete

    Rev limiter? that's what valve springs are for!

  5. #5
    Osee's Avatar
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    What intake studs and exhaust studs do you guys recommend? looking for factory 2 1/4" intake studs, but for the exhaust I'm unsure of length the headers are 3/8 flange and I have to take into account the possibility of running double gaskets if needed.


    Mods - TB Spacer, Short Throw Dipstick, Performance Auto Zone Intake "0.30 over bore", R/T Cam, Performance Chip, Radiator Delete

    Rev limiter? that's what valve springs are for!

  6. #6


    KTK00R/T's Avatar
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    Good Luck with it.. and get rid of the flowmasters, they don't flow.
    - Josh

    2000 Solar Yellow R/T - Cam Only Truck
    1987 Buick Regal T-Type - WE4 and Blackout
    2008 GMC 1500 Quad Cab
    1989 Jeep YJ - Real Jeeps have Square Headlights
    1971 Buick Skylark - LS SWAP THE WORLD

  7. #7

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    Quote Originally Posted by Osee View Post
    What intake studs and exhaust studs do you guys recommend? looking for factory 2 1/4" intake studs, but for the exhaust I'm unsure of length the headers are 3/8 flange and I have to take into account the possibility of running double gaskets if needed.
    If your plan is using push down looms to dress your wires then 1 1/4" length would be good. I'd you are going to use billet clamp looms 3/4" x 1/4 20 thread bolts is what I used. As far as the header bolts go 3/4" 1/4 20 12 point head bolts would be my suggestion. Why would you use two gaskets with OBX shorties? Are you going to use port plates with shorties?
    2000 CC
    11.37@122


  8. #8

    Friggin' R/T's Avatar
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    You're probably gonna need more of a header than a shorty...

    2002 Flame Red RC R/T
    272 RWHP 315 ft/lb TQ
    218/226 Comp Cam, Stage 1 Ported EQ Heads, PRW 1.6 Roller Rockers, PIE Custom Tune, Full spintech exhaust with 3" side exit, 52mm Holley, Ported Kegger, Viper E-Fan, Powerdemon Trans, Hotchkis Springs, Leafs and Sway Bars, R/T 20's, Gen 3 viper seats, Custom "Rejected" State Inspection Sticker
    Plenty More to come

  9. #9
    Osee's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lonesoldier79 View Post
    If your plan is using push down looms to dress your wires then 1 1/4" length would be good. I'd you are going to use billet clamp looms 3/4" x 1/4 20 thread bolts is what I used. As far as the header bolts go 3/4" 1/4 20 12 point head bolts would be my suggestion. Why would you use two gaskets with OBX shorties? Are you going to use port plates with shorties?
    What do you mean by dress my wires? as in the sensors/injector wires, or sparkplug wires?

    If for some odd reason I have a set of headers that's waaaay outta whack (I doubt this though they look fine). You think exhaust bolts is a better idea than studs?


    Mods - TB Spacer, Short Throw Dipstick, Performance Auto Zone Intake "0.30 over bore", R/T Cam, Performance Chip, Radiator Delete

    Rev limiter? that's what valve springs are for!

  10. #10
    Osee's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Friggin' R/T View Post
    You're probably gonna need more of a header than a shorty...
    I know I'll need bigger headers, are you willing to pay the exchange rate difference, shipping cost, duties, and tarrifs, so I can get a set of spintech longtubes?


    Mods - TB Spacer, Short Throw Dipstick, Performance Auto Zone Intake "0.30 over bore", R/T Cam, Performance Chip, Radiator Delete

    Rev limiter? that's what valve springs are for!

  11. #11

    Friggin' R/T's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Osee View Post
    I know I'll need bigger headers, are you willing to pay the exchange rate difference, shipping cost, duties, and tarrifs, so I can get a set of spintech longtubes?
    I can't even afford a set of spintech mids for myself...

    2002 Flame Red RC R/T
    272 RWHP 315 ft/lb TQ
    218/226 Comp Cam, Stage 1 Ported EQ Heads, PRW 1.6 Roller Rockers, PIE Custom Tune, Full spintech exhaust with 3" side exit, 52mm Holley, Ported Kegger, Viper E-Fan, Powerdemon Trans, Hotchkis Springs, Leafs and Sway Bars, R/T 20's, Gen 3 viper seats, Custom "Rejected" State Inspection Sticker
    Plenty More to come

  12. #12
    Osee's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Friggin' R/T View Post
    I can't even afford a set of spintech mids for myself...
    ^ This is why I have OBX shorties


    Mods - TB Spacer, Short Throw Dipstick, Performance Auto Zone Intake "0.30 over bore", R/T Cam, Performance Chip, Radiator Delete

    Rev limiter? that's what valve springs are for!

  13. #13

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    Quote Originally Posted by Osee View Post
    What do you mean by dress my wires? as in the sensors/injector wires, or sparkplug wires?

    If for some odd reason I have a set of headers that's waaaay outta whack (I doubt this though they look fine). You think exhaust bolts is a better idea than studs?
    I meant dressing the ignition wires lol. And IMO I think bolts anywhere but the heads is the way to go. And the question on port plates wasn't meant to be smart ass lol. I was just asking a ligitemate question. You have to realize you have twice the kowledge if not more than I do..
    2000 CC
    11.37@122


  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lonesoldier79 View Post
    I meant dressing the ignition wires lol. And IMO I think bolts anywhere but the heads is the way to go. And the question on port plates wasn't meant to be smart ass lol. I was just asking a ligitemate question. You have to realize you have twice the kowledge if not more than I do..
    I wasn't implying you were I don't think I'll dress up the plug wires just leave them bare. Maybe I'll just go bolts with the exhaust, but for the intake I think it would be easier to have the studs in the heads, drop the intake on, put my adapters on, and then the nuts.


    Mods - TB Spacer, Short Throw Dipstick, Performance Auto Zone Intake "0.30 over bore", R/T Cam, Performance Chip, Radiator Delete

    Rev limiter? that's what valve springs are for!

  15. #15

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    If you do go bolts for the headers make sure they are 12 point and the head is smaller than the bolt diameter so you can get the closed side of the wrench around the bolt head. I made the mistake of using hex head bolts on my first set of headers. I couldn't torque the front and back bolts on the header flange once they were 90% tight. The mouth of the wrench was hitting the collectors.
    2000 CC
    11.37@122


  16. #16

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    Where do you buy the 12 point bolts?

  17. #17
    Osee's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dstoots View Post
    Where do you buy the 12 point bolts?
    http://www.summitracing.com/int/sear...rder=Ascending

    Just search "Your length" 1/4-20 12 point bolt


    Mods - TB Spacer, Short Throw Dipstick, Performance Auto Zone Intake "0.30 over bore", R/T Cam, Performance Chip, Radiator Delete

    Rev limiter? that's what valve springs are for!

  18. #18
    Osee's Avatar
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    Wow looking back things sure change!

    New plan

    Engine 1
    -Stock rotating assembly 360
    -going to open the pushrod pinch, and the guide post myself on the stock heads
    -stainless valves, .600" springs, retainers, locks
    -Crane 1.6 Adj RR's
    -PIE turbo cam I got from dakrt
    -M1 4bbl
    -1200 CFM TB
    -42lb ford injectors (might buy some 60lbers)
    -fuel cell where spare tire is
    -spintech long tubes with quiet mufflers
    -QTP electric cutouts
    -Vortech V1 with intercooler
    -T56 swap
    -hotchkiss lowering front springs
    -move rear hangers up
    -MegaSquirt 3x
    -ARP head studs
    -probably going to weld the diff

    Run this until I blow it up

    Engine 2

    -K1 4.00" stroker crank
    -BRC aluminum connecting rods
    -Wiseco pro tru forged -20cc pistons
    -Program billet caps
    -Big turbo, or twins

    -Option 1
    -keep the m1
    -cnc Eddies

    -Option 2
    -INDY 360-3m
    -INDY Heads 360-1's?

    -Option 3
    -Edelbrock super victor intake
    -Edelbrock super victor heads

    will need the chambers opened up on all these heads


    Mods - TB Spacer, Short Throw Dipstick, Performance Auto Zone Intake "0.30 over bore", R/T Cam, Performance Chip, Radiator Delete

    Rev limiter? that's what valve springs are for!

  19. #19

    KyleDedrick's Avatar
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    You'll have fun 1)getting the 360-1 on properly and 2) figuring out how to bolt up the stock accessories haha

    I enjoy your option 1 at about 20psi tho haha
    1998 Silver RC SLT - Hughes 2.02 Heads, Mopar M1 4bbl Intake, Mopar 4bbl TB, 230/236 .515/.515 on a 110, 1.6 Roller Rockers, 4.10's, Spintech Headers, 3" Duals, X Pipe, Chambered Mufflers, 4/4 Drop, 727 Full Manual w/Transbrake, PTC 4500 Stall


    12.90 at 104mph

  20. #20
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    haha yeah things end up changing pretty quick. My stout 360 mag build turned in to twin turbo 370 hemi

  21. #21
    Osee's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by KyleDedrick View Post
    You'll have fun 1)getting the 360-1 on properly and 2) figuring out how to bolt up the stock accessories haha

    I enjoy your option 1 at about 20psi tho haha
    Only use A/C 2 months of the year anyways when you live North of the 52nd parallel


    Mods - TB Spacer, Short Throw Dipstick, Performance Auto Zone Intake "0.30 over bore", R/T Cam, Performance Chip, Radiator Delete

    Rev limiter? that's what valve springs are for!

  22. #22

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    Quote Originally Posted by Osee View Post
    Only use A/C 2 months of the year anyways when you live North of the 52nd parallel
    ....and the tin-can process begins. haha
    2003 Black CC R/T, 1 of (less than) 376

  23. #23
    Sick 660r's Avatar
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    Nah. A/C delete is standard lol


    Quote Originally Posted by BluRT00 View Post
    Part your red sport out and buy a gen 2. Problem solved.

  24. #24

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    Standard for stripper cars maybe. Pulling amenities out is just barbarous.
    2003 Black CC R/T, 1 of (less than) 376

  25. #25



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    Quote Originally Posted by Dark(a)RT View Post
    Standard for stripper cars maybe. Pulling amenities out is just barbarous.
    Hey now....
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    2017 NM Mopar Challenge Series Champion

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