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Thread: Steering Wheel Overhaul

  1. #1

    JDreamR/T's Avatar
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    Default Steering Wheel Overhaul

    Well I got my custom leather steering wheel wrap finished. I ordered the kit from www.redlinegoods.com . I got their kit with a two tone scheme, black leather w/perforated black leather on sides and red contrasting stitching. I also had them embroider a Mopar logo at 12 o'clock for an additional $30. Other options from them include padding to make the wheel thicker (which I opted for), as well as thumb-grips if you happen to like those. (I decided against the grips, I just felt that it wouldn't flow well with the 4-spoke OEM design, and I don't think I really need 'em).

    So I literally just finished wrapping the wheel last night, and installed it back on the truck this morning. For now I just have a few cell phone pics (please excuse the somewhat messy interior). I will be posting more about my experience on the work done, a general guide for those who may like to know what is involved.

    All in all it took me approx. 10 hrs. from start to finish, but that includes a few breaks to look up how-to videos, and in general taking my time & figuring things out being that this is all new to me.

    Overall I'm really happy with the way it turned out, and am quite impressed with the quality of materials of the kit supplied by RedlineGoods. Ordering was a cinch, customer service is great, and the prices were very reasonable (standard oem cover starts at $129). I highly recommend Redlines' kits to anyone who has an old deteriorating wheel and is looking for a replacement, and for those who may also want to add a little something extra. Definitely check them out! They do a lot more stuff including shift boots and plenty of other interior goodies.

    Thanks,
    1999 R/T CC Flame Red (what's left of the paint)
    //SHAKER// 408 Forged // TKO600 5spd // Spintech-Mids // HiPoTek 106 LOPEYCAM // FRP Tuned //

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    Before:


    After:








    1999 R/T CC Flame Red (what's left of the paint)
    //SHAKER// 408 Forged // TKO600 5spd // Spintech-Mids // HiPoTek 106 LOPEYCAM // FRP Tuned //

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    Kingst3r's Avatar
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    Looks good! How hard was the actually wrapping/stitching process? That the part that has me nervous.

    My R/T build (rebuild) thread

    http://www.dakota-durango.com/forum/...d.php?t=133167
    Quote Originally Posted by 70Cuda383 View Post
    It's an emissions thing. someone, somewhere said that the millions of gallons of gas that evaporate to the atmosphere every year was killing tree frogs on some south african isalnd or some shit, those endangered tree frogs can suck my left nut.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Kingst3r View Post
    Looks good! How hard was the actually wrapping/stitching process? That the part that has me nervous.
    Thanks! To be honest I thought it would be harder to do. It's actually really easy using redline's stitching method. The most tedious thing about the whole job was prepping the wheel: installing the padding, trimming excess material, and trying not to make a mess with the glue (contact cement). Sewing it up was fairly straightforward, and is super rewarding seeing it come together.
    They give you plenty of thread so if you mess up, just cut it out and try again. The main thing is to get it all aligned properly, and the glue helps keep everything in place before you start sewing.

    FYI - Redline currently has 10% off orders this week!
    1999 R/T CC Flame Red (what's left of the paint)
    //SHAKER// 408 Forged // TKO600 5spd // Spintech-Mids // HiPoTek 106 LOPEYCAM // FRP Tuned //

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    Quote Originally Posted by JDreamR/T View Post
    Thanks! To be honest I thought it would be harder to do. It's actually really easy using redline's stitching method. The most tedious thing about the whole job was prepping the wheel: installing the padding, trimming excess material, and trying not to make a mess with the glue (contact cement). Sewing it up was fairly straightforward, and is super rewarding seeing it come together.
    They give you plenty of thread so if you mess up, just cut it out and try again. The main thing is to get it all aligned properly, and the glue helps keep everything in place before you start sewing.

    FYI - Redline currently has 10% off orders this week!
    Thanks for the info! I think im gonna go ahead and order mine this week. Did you go with jdm red stitching?

    My R/T build (rebuild) thread

    http://www.dakota-durango.com/forum/...d.php?t=133167
    Quote Originally Posted by 70Cuda383 View Post
    It's an emissions thing. someone, somewhere said that the millions of gallons of gas that evaporate to the atmosphere every year was killing tree frogs on some south african isalnd or some shit, those endangered tree frogs can suck my left nut.

  6. #6

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    Quote Originally Posted by Kingst3r View Post
    Thanks for the info! I think im gonna go ahead and order mine this week. Did you go with jdm red stitching?
    Yeah, I believe so. I just emailed them and just said red stitching. There's red and then there's dark red. JDM is the lighter red.
    1999 R/T CC Flame Red (what's left of the paint)
    //SHAKER// 408 Forged // TKO600 5spd // Spintech-Mids // HiPoTek 106 LOPEYCAM // FRP Tuned //

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    Here is a write-up to help those get an idea of how I went about wrapping my steering wheel cover from www.redlinegoods.com. By no means is this an official procedure, just a guidline of the steps I took based off of the information also provided from redline's webpage and youtube channel. I highly recommend you watch their videos.

    So here goes!

    PREPARATION:
    Every kit comes with the cover pre-stitched, and comes with thread and needles to “lace” the cover together.
    Here is a picture of the contents of the kit I ordered from them. I also added the option of wheel padding, which thickens the wheel by 1/8” OD or so. It also adds a premium cushioned feel.

    Before you start, you should gather the following tools and materials:
    -Razor utility knife, break-off blade style
    -Scissors
    -Contact cement
    -Cleaning solution safe for leather and plastics (I used goof-off) to clean excess contact cement.
    -Clean rag
    -Steering wheel puller
    -Torx bit driver
    -13/16" socket
    -8mm socket
    -Phillips screwdriver
    -Ratchet handle(s)

    Optional:
    - 1/2” Threaded rod, with large fender washers and nuts.
    1999 R/T CC Flame Red (what's left of the paint)
    //SHAKER// 408 Forged // TKO600 5spd // Spintech-Mids // HiPoTek 106 LOPEYCAM // FRP Tuned //

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    Step 1: Remove Steering Wheel

    a) Before you start you need to disarm the airbag system before removing your steering wheel. To do this, disconnect the battery negative terminal. YOU MUST WAIT, according to the shop manual two minutes for the system (capacitors) to power down completely. I say a minimum of 1/2 hr. just to be safe.

    b) Begin removing the center horn/airbag section of the wheel first by removing the two attaching screws from behind the wheel on either side. You will need an 8mm socket.



    c) Pull the airbag/horn assembly unit straight out and carefully disconnect the RED horn wire (insulated spade terminal), and YELLOW airbag connector (pulls straight out).



    d) With the airbag section out of the way, disconnect left and right cruise control button connectors.

    e) You can now loosen the center mounting nut to the wheel. Do not remove, only loosen the nut about 2-3 turns. Use an 13/16” socket.



    f) Thread on your steering wheel puller tool, and pull wheel till it pops and is loose. Remove tool.



    g) Remove nut and remove wheel.
    Last edited by JDreamR/T; 12-12-2014 at 12:24 AM.
    1999 R/T CC Flame Red (what's left of the paint)
    //SHAKER// 408 Forged // TKO600 5spd // Spintech-Mids // HiPoTek 106 LOPEYCAM // FRP Tuned //

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    Step 2: Prepare wheel.

    a) Find a suitable clean work area. I used a piece of 1/2” threaded rod to clamp the wheel in a vice to make it easier for me to work.



    b) Remove the cruise control buttons, these are Torx head screws.



    c) Remove rear plastic wheel cover, four phillips head pan screws.

    d) Remove old leather cover by cutting old stitching with razor knife.




    e) Clean bare wheel of old residue with a cleaner safe to use for plastics & rubber. I found goof-off worked well for me.


    Last edited by JDreamR/T; 12-11-2014 at 11:42 PM.
    1999 R/T CC Flame Red (what's left of the paint)
    //SHAKER// 408 Forged // TKO600 5spd // Spintech-Mids // HiPoTek 106 LOPEYCAM // FRP Tuned //

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    Step 3: Install options (skip this step if just replacing w/standard cover)


    a) At this point it may be helpful to reference the Redline's webpage and youtube channel for more information on how to install additional equipment, such as padding and thumb-grips.

    b) I will cover the padding option, which consists of four pre-cut sections of 1/16” thick PSA adhesive lined gray foam. These sections are clearly labeled for orientation.



    c) Start with the bottom wheel section first. Layout on flat surface, be sure the padding is oriented correctly to the wheel.

    d) Peel back adhesive liner, and center the wheel over the section as best by eye. Place wheel down onto padding, and rock wheel left to right over the pad.

    e) Work the padding by hand gradually folding it over and around the wheel and spokes.



    f) Avoid stretching the material too much, it can easily tear. Gently use even pressure with your fingers working it into the contours and avoid wrinkles. It is quite conformable stuff.

    g) Trim off excess material using a razor knife with brand new blade. Use a back and forth sawing motion to trim excess along the seam. Blade must be sharp! Otherwise you will be miserable.



    h) Repeat this process for the left and right sections, leave the top section for last.


    Last edited by JDreamR/T; 12-12-2014 at 12:04 AM.
    1999 R/T CC Flame Red (what's left of the paint)
    //SHAKER// 408 Forged // TKO600 5spd // Spintech-Mids // HiPoTek 106 LOPEYCAM // FRP Tuned //

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    Step 4: Gluing and installing cover
    a) Mount wheel back onto bench vise, if you have one.



    b) Stretch the cover over the wheel centering it and aligning the areas around the spokes. Double-check orientation of cover to wheel. Make sure that all seams are straight and are aligned when pulled around handle.



    c) Pinch the corners around both sides of each spoke to make sure that you have even material on both sides, to be able to evenly sew the seams closed.



    d) After you feel confident that the cover’s position is correct, apply contact cement along inside of cover. Coat the sides of the wheel, spokes, and cover. Gradually work in sections to maintain control of cover position. Once the cement starts to tack it is difficult to re-adjust cover position!
    TIP: be really careful around perforated sections, brush on lightly and let it tack-up, or glue will ooze out the holes.




    e) Allow the cement to tack up a bit, and then start to work the cover up around the sides and up around the spokes.

    You are ready to begin stitching when you have reached this point.

    Last edited by JDreamR/T; 12-12-2014 at 03:00 PM. Reason: added tech tip
    1999 R/T CC Flame Red (what's left of the paint)
    //SHAKER// 408 Forged // TKO600 5spd // Spintech-Mids // HiPoTek 106 LOPEYCAM // FRP Tuned //

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    Step 5: Stitching / Lacing the wheel cover.
    a) The Redline steering wheel covers already come pre-stitched longitudinally along the seam edges. To stitch the cover together, the needle and thread is passed underneath these series of “loops”, pulled over around and under into the next loop on the other side of the seam. This is repeated back and forth similar to lacing up shoes, only you skip every other loop as you work your way along the seam. See detailed photo below.

    b) Start at any spoke (I started at the lower left spoke). Beginning high up on the spoke edge, sew the beginning of the seam together to pull tight along the crease where the leather wraps around the top edge of the spoke, and knot it off.



    c) Then begin to proceed with passing the needle under the first loop, and lacing down the seam pulling the seam together with every other loop.




    d) Let your fingers aid in stretching the leather around the handle to help close the seam.

    e) When you reach the next spoke, stitch up around the lip to hug the seam around the corner edge of the spoke, just as in step "b". Double knot and cut thread.

    f) Apply contact cement around top edges of spokes to hold the leather tight around lip of spokes.

    g) Repeat this process until cover is fully laced.





    TIP: Every 2 inches or so, go back along the seam that you just threaded, and re-tighten seam by pulling out slack in the thread.
    Last edited by JDreamR/T; 12-12-2014 at 12:20 AM.
    1999 R/T CC Flame Red (what's left of the paint)
    //SHAKER// 408 Forged // TKO600 5spd // Spintech-Mids // HiPoTek 106 LOPEYCAM // FRP Tuned //

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    Step 6: Reinstall wheel
    a) Reinstall the rear cover and cruise control buttons.




    b) Re attach wheel to truck column, and plug back in connectors/wires. Torque center nut to 35 ft-lbs.

    c) Reinstall airbag/horn assembly (make certain that neg. battery cable and any other auxiliary power sources are disconnected as described in STEP 1-a.)

    d) Reinstall negative battery cable and drive like a BOSS!

    Last edited by JDreamR/T; 12-12-2014 at 12:28 AM.
    1999 R/T CC Flame Red (what's left of the paint)
    //SHAKER// 408 Forged // TKO600 5spd // Spintech-Mids // HiPoTek 106 LOPEYCAM // FRP Tuned //

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    Great write up. Thanks. ATTN mods, make this a sticky.
    If you haven't lived for something, you'll die for nothing.

  15. #15

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    Quote Originally Posted by ScojoDak View Post
    Great write up. Thanks. ATTN mods, make this a sticky.
    DONE! looks Killer Man!

    2002 Flame Red RC R/T
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    Plenty More to come

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    Quote Originally Posted by Friggin' R/T View Post
    DONE! looks Killer Man!
    Thanks guys!!
    1999 R/T CC Flame Red (what's left of the paint)
    //SHAKER// 408 Forged // TKO600 5spd // Spintech-Mids // HiPoTek 106 LOPEYCAM // FRP Tuned //

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    Wow. Looks F%%%ing Great!!! Will you be my secret Santa?

  18. #18

    Kingst3r's Avatar
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    Just ordered mine. They have 10% off + a 15% off with free shipping deal going on right now. Mine was $98 shipped. FYI

    My R/T build (rebuild) thread

    http://www.dakota-durango.com/forum/...d.php?t=133167
    Quote Originally Posted by 70Cuda383 View Post
    It's an emissions thing. someone, somewhere said that the millions of gallons of gas that evaporate to the atmosphere every year was killing tree frogs on some south african isalnd or some shit, those endangered tree frogs can suck my left nut.

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    Great write up JD and that thing is clean looking!
    Almost factory if they made a Mopar Edition R/T


    00 FR RC Dakota R/T Turbo 11.56@118

    99 Amethyst RC Dakota R/T 1-170 13.84@98

    P.I.E. tuned cause Flynn is for the Birds if you wanna Run Fast have some PIE !

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    Quote Originally Posted by NicksRTCC01 View Post
    Wow. Looks F%%%ing Great!!! Will you be my secret Santa?
    Thanks! Haha, secret santa…that’s funny.

    Quote Originally Posted by Kingst3r View Post
    Just ordered mine. They have 10% off + a 15% off with free shipping deal going on right now. Mine was $98 shipped. FYI
    Awesome!!

    Quote Originally Posted by RTchas View Post
    Great write up JD and that thing is clean looking!
    Almost factory if they made a Mopar Edition R/T
    Thanks, kinda what I was shooting for. I originally thought about doing red leather on the sides, but glad I didn’t go that route. I didn’t want it to look too flashy. I love how it turned out.
    1999 R/T CC Flame Red (what's left of the paint)
    //SHAKER// 408 Forged // TKO600 5spd // Spintech-Mids // HiPoTek 106 LOPEYCAM // FRP Tuned //

  21. #21
    SShiTbox's Avatar
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    Very nice write up. I will need to do this in the near future so I will be referencing this for sure.
    98 SS/T Stock 193hp/241lb.ft Best time 60ft-2.32 1/8-10.26@69mph 1/4-15.97@85.5mph

  22. #22

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    Quote Originally Posted by SShiTbox View Post
    Very nice write up. I will need to do this in the near future so I will be referencing this for sure.
    Thanks, sure thing budday! It wasn't hard. Makes for a good winter project.
    1999 R/T CC Flame Red (what's left of the paint)
    //SHAKER// 408 Forged // TKO600 5spd // Spintech-Mids // HiPoTek 106 LOPEYCAM // FRP Tuned //

  23. #23
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    I'm gonna grab a junkyard for wheel and use it. That way the truck isn't down for any length of time.
    98 SS/T Stock 193hp/241lb.ft Best time 60ft-2.32 1/8-10.26@69mph 1/4-15.97@85.5mph

  24. #24
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    Is there any way to wrap the center portion of the wheel? I would want the whole thing to match in the "look" of the leather.
    HI. I like beer, burnouts, and boobies...


  25. #25

    SB440R/T's Avatar
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    Did you do the regular red color or the dark red?
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