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Thread: Energy Suspension Cab/Body mounts

  1. #76
    dakrt23's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sick 660r View Post
    Are you going with solid spherical ends?
    Yeah fab guy showed me some spherical ends they use on their off road trucks, they were massive freaking ends way overkill but I believe they had nylon or some kind of non metallic inserts in them and were fully serviceable
    HI. I like beer, burnouts, and boobies...


  2. #77
    Sick 660r's Avatar
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    Have you considered something more street friendly?


    Quote Originally Posted by BluRT00 View Post
    Part your red sport out and buy a gen 2. Problem solved.

  3. #78
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sick 660r View Post
    Have you considered something more street friendly?
    For the 4 link ends? What were you thinking instead?
    HI. I like beer, burnouts, and boobies...


  4. #79
    Sick 660r's Avatar
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    I can't find the ones I was looking at. Talk to GregZ on RM. I think his username here is wedge.


    Quote Originally Posted by BluRT00 View Post
    Part your red sport out and buy a gen 2. Problem solved.

  5. #80
    9t9-5.2's Avatar
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    Use these; http://www.nfamusmetal.com/4-link-bu...threaded-stud/ Not necessarily this exact one but same principal.

    "Excuse me if I have some place in my mind, where I go time to time"

  6. #81
    Sick 660r's Avatar
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    ^^^ pretty much. The ones I was looking for had greese fittings.


    Quote Originally Posted by BluRT00 View Post
    Part your red sport out and buy a gen 2. Problem solved.

  7. #82
    Sick 660r's Avatar
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    Can someone post pics of the top and bottom rear body mounts. I got one today that's supposed to be for the front but I'm trying to make it work on the rear. I threw my stock one away a long time ago.


    Quote Originally Posted by BluRT00 View Post
    Part your red sport out and buy a gen 2. Problem solved.

  8. #83
    Sick 660r's Avatar
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    Well the front cab mounts don't fit. The hole in the frame is too small. I haven't checked the height but if it's correct then I'll probably open the hole to fit the front mounts. It wouldn't be hard to weld a plat in to go back to stock.


    Quote Originally Posted by BluRT00 View Post
    Part your red sport out and buy a gen 2. Problem solved.

  9. #84

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    I’m in the process of of plumbing my fuel lines with stainless tubing so I figured I better install these poly mounts now before I get too much further routing the lines and run into possible problems with fitment. I did a quick measurement of the distance between the frame outrigger and the bottom of the body to get some idea of the thickness of each stock rubber mount and came up with the following thicknesses:

    Position 1 (front):
    DS: 1.190
    PS: 1.227

    Position 2 (center):
    DS: .940
    PS: 1.005

    Position 3 (rear):
    DS: 1.085
    PS: 1.185

    The front poly mounts for position 1 are: 1.260 and 1.250 thick, an average of 1.255.

    The center and rear poly mounts for position 2 and 3 are: 1.105; 1.106; 1.093; and 1.109 thick, or an average of 1.103.

    As you can see, the stock rubber mounts have compressed at different rates but are still pretty close to the thickness of the poly mounts. (Interesting that the drivers side has settled more than the passenger's side. Kinda felt like I was doin' the gangsta lean. )

    I’ll go about installing them and see what happens.

  10. #85

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    I started installing mine yesterday. Please note that the instructions from ES are backwards when using on the '97-04 vehicles. The mount they specify for the front goes in the rear and the ones designated for the rear go in the front. The front and center hole locations in the frame are about 2" in diameter and the rear is about 1.5" in diameter. The bushing installed in the front are a perfect fit in height as well. However, I can see that I will have to machine the center and rear mounts down at the top and then determine if I need to taper the hole a little more since the center and rear OEM mounts are a different height. IIRC the rear bushing needs an 1/8" inch removed from the top and the center bushing a little less than an 1/8" from the top. Later today I will do some more checking to be sure and give it a shot. If it works I may offer the machined bushings for sale.

  11. #86

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    I'm embarrassed that I never noticed. It's a CC
    Joe, your body lines may be off because it sounds like you only installed the rear poly mounts which are taller (without machining) and the remaining mounts are rubber which have also settled.

  12. #87
    Sick 660r's Avatar
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    I thought they didn't offer mounts for our gen. I'm using my gen II mounts for that reason.


    Quote Originally Posted by BluRT00 View Post
    Part your red sport out and buy a gen 2. Problem solved.

  13. #88

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    I thought they didn't offer mounts for our gen. I'm using my gen II mounts for that reason.
    Right. I'm referring to using the '87-96 mounts on the '97-04 Dakota.

  14. #89
    Sick 660r's Avatar
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    Ok makes sense then. Yeah I just did the rear ones.


    Quote Originally Posted by BluRT00 View Post
    Part your red sport out and buy a gen 2. Problem solved.

  15. #90
    Sick 660r's Avatar
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    Turned mine down to 1-1/16" but it seems like I need another 1/8".


    Quote Originally Posted by BluRT00 View Post
    Part your red sport out and buy a gen 2. Problem solved.

  16. #91

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    Turned mine down to 1-1/16" but it seems like I need another 1/8".
    Make sure you champher the bolt hole in the mount or it may not sit flat in the steel cup. If you are still using the OEM rubber mounts center and up front you may need to shave off more from the back mounts in order to sit level. I have mine installed now and I didn't have to cut the rear down that far. I had to machine both the rear and the center bushings for a perfect fit. I am offering them machined on my website now: http://stores.hi-potek.com/body-mounts/

  17. #92
    Sick 660r's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 98Dak408 View Post
    Make sure you champher the bolt hole in the mount or it may not sit flat in the steel cup. If you are still using the OEM rubber mounts center and up front you may need to shave off more from the back mounts in order to sit level. I have mine installed now and I didn't have to cut the rear down that far. I had to machine both the rear and the center bushings for a perfect fit. I am offering them machined on my website now: http://stores.hi-potek.com/body-mounts/
    I put a little fillet on the inner part of the bushing but maybe it wasn't enough. I'll take another looked at it.

    What rpm were you using?


    Quote Originally Posted by BluRT00 View Post
    Part your red sport out and buy a gen 2. Problem solved.

  18. #93
    Sick 660r's Avatar
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    Took a little more off the inside and it fits better. Do your steel cups bottom out? Photo to show what I'm talking about.




    Quote Originally Posted by BluRT00 View Post
    Part your red sport out and buy a gen 2. Problem solved.

  19. #94
    Sick 660r's Avatar
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    Had to shorten the top cup. All good now.


    Quote Originally Posted by BluRT00 View Post
    Part your red sport out and buy a gen 2. Problem solved.

  20. #95

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    I was trying around 1275 rpm but am still determining the best speed.

    I didn't have any problem with bottoming out but I didn't take off as much as yourself.

  21. #96
    Sick 660r's Avatar
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    I shortened the top cup so that it just barely sticks past the top bushing. I tightened it so the two cups bottom out and the body lines are even.


    Quote Originally Posted by BluRT00 View Post
    Part your red sport out and buy a gen 2. Problem solved.

  22. #97
    dakrt23's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sick 660r View Post
    I shortened the top cup so that it just barely sticks past the top bushing. I tightened it so the two cups bottom out and the body lines are even.
    This is why I was saying that you would have to taper the inside of the bushing to match the taper of the cup otherwise the bushing will not sit in the bottom of the cup it will bind on the taper of the cup...

    Unless you are referring to the actual metal cup was now binding against each other because the bushings were so short. Then the bushings would be pointless as the cups would be touching and sending all the vibrations through each other.
    HI. I like beer, burnouts, and boobies...


  23. #98
    Sick 660r's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dakrt23 View Post
    This is why I was saying that you would have to taper the inside of the bushing to match the taper of the cup otherwise the bushing will not sit in the bottom of the cup it will bind on the taper of the cup...

    Unless you are referring to the actual metal cup was now binding against each other because the bushings were so short. Then the bushings would be pointless as the cups would be touching and sending all the vibrations through each other.
    Both cups have always been touching. The bushing are not useless because neither cup is actually making contact with the frame.


    Quote Originally Posted by BluRT00 View Post
    Part your red sport out and buy a gen 2. Problem solved.

  24. #99
    Sick 660r's Avatar
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    Look back at the photos in the first post and you can see how they top and bottom metal cups were touching.


    Quote Originally Posted by BluRT00 View Post
    Part your red sport out and buy a gen 2. Problem solved.

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