Use these; http://www.nfamusmetal.com/4-link-bu...threaded-stud/ Not necessarily this exact one but same principal.
"Excuse me if I have some place in my mind, where I go time to time"
I’m in the process of of plumbing my fuel lines with stainless tubing so I figured I better install these poly mounts now before I get too much further routing the lines and run into possible problems with fitment. I did a quick measurement of the distance between the frame outrigger and the bottom of the body to get some idea of the thickness of each stock rubber mount and came up with the following thicknesses:
Position 1 (front):
DS: 1.190
PS: 1.227
Position 2 (center):
DS: .940
PS: 1.005
Position 3 (rear):
DS: 1.085
PS: 1.185
The front poly mounts for position 1 are: 1.260 and 1.250 thick, an average of 1.255.
The center and rear poly mounts for position 2 and 3 are: 1.105; 1.106; 1.093; and 1.109 thick, or an average of 1.103.
As you can see, the stock rubber mounts have compressed at different rates but are still pretty close to the thickness of the poly mounts. (Interesting that the drivers side has settled more than the passenger's side. Kinda felt like I was doin' the gangsta lean. )
I’ll go about installing them and see what happens.
I started installing mine yesterday. Please note that the instructions from ES are backwards when using on the '97-04 vehicles. The mount they specify for the front goes in the rear and the ones designated for the rear go in the front. The front and center hole locations in the frame are about 2" in diameter and the rear is about 1.5" in diameter. The bushing installed in the front are a perfect fit in height as well. However, I can see that I will have to machine the center and rear mounts down at the top and then determine if I need to taper the hole a little more since the center and rear OEM mounts are a different height. IIRC the rear bushing needs an 1/8" inch removed from the top and the center bushing a little less than an 1/8" from the top. Later today I will do some more checking to be sure and give it a shot. If it works I may offer the machined bushings for sale.
Make sure you champher the bolt hole in the mount or it may not sit flat in the steel cup. If you are still using the OEM rubber mounts center and up front you may need to shave off more from the back mounts in order to sit level. I have mine installed now and I didn't have to cut the rear down that far. I had to machine both the rear and the center bushings for a perfect fit. I am offering them machined on my website now: http://stores.hi-potek.com/body-mounts/Turned mine down to 1-1/16" but it seems like I need another 1/8".
This is why I was saying that you would have to taper the inside of the bushing to match the taper of the cup otherwise the bushing will not sit in the bottom of the cup it will bind on the taper of the cup...
Unless you are referring to the actual metal cup was now binding against each other because the bushings were so short. Then the bushings would be pointless as the cups would be touching and sending all the vibrations through each other.
HI. I like beer, burnouts, and boobies...