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Thread: Beware of Timken USA made wheel bearings.

  1. #76
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    Quote Originally Posted by Adobedude View Post
    I think part of my problem is Brandon's hubs are wrong. I just pulled the hub off and the Timken bearing dropped out half way, a few taps and it was all the way out...No press needed. When I installed the bearings they dropped right in with the hub hot and bearing cold, again...No press needed.

    I have been PM'ing Brandon about this but now his box is full.

    What say you guys...If the bearing drops in, is that too much play?

    Oh fuck!!! thats not good.
    but it won't be a catastrophic condition either so long as the circlip is properly seated to retain the bearing.

    I would offer only this advice;
    There are companies that can spray metal, yes molten metal, as in building up old school spindles.
    I don't know the specifics but what you have can be built up and remachined just like the spindles.
    It's essentially a much more finer process than welding up an unnecessary big ass bead only to have to turn it back down a couple of thousands smaller than what you started with.
    Last edited by Motorhead; 08-24-2014 at 07:34 AM.
    Your problem isn't the problem. Your reaction is the problem.

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  2. #77
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    Sounds crazy but here is a video...this technology has been around for at least 25 years.

    [ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oGPeyjRhk0I"]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oGPeyjRhk0I[/ame]
    Your problem isn't the problem. Your reaction is the problem.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Motorhead View Post
    Oh fuck!!! thats not good.
    but it won't be a catastrophic condition either so long as the circlip is properly seated to retain the bearing.

    I would offer only this advice;
    There are companies that can spray metal, yes molten metal, as in building up old school spindles.
    I don't know the specifics but what you have can be built up and remachined just like the spindles.
    It's essentially a much more finer process than welding up an unnecessary big ass bead only to have to turn it back down a couple of thousands smaller than what you started with.
    If I do anything I'll get some stock hubs re drilled for 5 lugs, but it's track only...Not like the bearings are subjected to much abuse.
    11.27 @ 118.23
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  4. #79

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    Keep in mind to double check your lug nuts after 50 miles or so whenever you put new hub bearings on.. Sometimes they don't get the studs pressed all the way in and they will pull in and loose the lug nut.

    I've used Timken for decades and never had an issue. BCA National is another good bearing.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Motorhead View Post
    I don't care about your business......wtf happened the hub???
    Is it still tight and how long??
    Several years later, it's still as tight as it should be. Zero play.
    Alan Short
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    Thread revival...

    Brandon's 5 lug hubs....
    I can tap the bearings in and out of the hub with a rubber hammer, once past 1/2 way they basically fall out, with the hub bolted up and torqued to specs, the wheel wobbles 1/4" at the outermost point (edge of tire)....I suspect the hub was machined to incorrect tolerances as in "too fucking big".

    Brandon has been a no show here....no response to PMs either.

    Would something like this work?

    http://www.loctite.co.uk/loctite-408...=8802627616769
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  7. #82
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    Quote Originally Posted by Adobedude View Post
    Thread revival...

    Brandon's 5 lug hubs....
    I can tap the bearings in and out of the hub with a rubber hammer, once past 1/2 way they basically fall out, with the hub bolted up and torqued to specs, the wheel wobbles 1/4" at the outermost point (edge of tire)....I suspect the hub was machined to incorrect tolerances as in "too fucking big".

    Brandon has been a no show here....no response to PMs either.

    Would something like this work?

    http://www.loctite.co.uk/loctite-408...=8802627616769
    I'm not sure....If it were me I would be consulting Loctite on the phone before using.

    I'm running bone stock hubs and having problems with the bearings.

    Dave it sounds like you are having a fitment issue with the hubs themselves.

    I wonder if the heat from welding on the hub flanges has somehow changed the tolerances of the center hole for the bearing??

    I do remember a similar situation years ago with some Suzuki motorcycle wheels. The guy had sent them in to have them re-powder coated. This meant that the wheels had to be heated up in an oven to remove the old powder coating before applying the new coat. Anyway, what happened was that the temp got too hot or they stayed in the oven too long. When he got the wheels back they would not retain the bearings. The tolerances had changed because of the excessive heat. The powder coating company had to buy the guy new wheels. The wheels were aluminum and your hubs are steel, but this still comes to mind.

    Edit: I am still running around on my old used bearings and have not found new ones yet. I will be getting back to this soon.
    Your problem isn't the problem. Your reaction is the problem.

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  8. #83

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    Quote Originally Posted by hskr View Post
    Is it just me or does it look like the wheel is moving around the lug nuts like the lug nuts aren't actually tightened down all the way.
    That guys a moron, My hubs were going bad and they did not have play like that in them. Sounds like the rim is moving around on the threads in the video. Plus if you don't torque the bolt to factory specs, you can burn right through a wheel bearing

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    Quote Originally Posted by yellowdak360 View Post
    That guys a moron, My hubs were going bad and they did not have pla.y like that in them. Sounds like the rim is moving around on the threads in the video. Plus if you don't torque the bolt to factory specs, you can burn right through a wheel bearing
    Moron??? I suppose the guys at Sears are morons too for bringing it to my attention when I went in for an alignment.
    I own the factory service manual and it says to torque to 185 ft. lbs. Which I did with a Snap-On torque wrench.
    The problem is that the bearings were bad right out of the box and I had to drive it that way for close to a thosand miles.When tolerances are too great moving parts will beat themselves to death and tolerances become greater.
    So just cause it ain't happened to you dont mean it didnt happen to me JACKASS.
    Your problem isn't the problem. Your reaction is the problem.

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  10. #85

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    Sorry thought it was a random video you posted. Not a video of your truck..

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    I wonder if the heat from welding on the hub flanges has somehow changed the tolerances of the center hole for the bearing??

    What welding? The hubs were turned from a sold chunk of steel, all the tolerances are off.
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    Quote Originally Posted by yellowdak360 View Post
    Sorry thought it was a random video you posted. Not a video of your truck..

    I appreciate the apology. We all make mistakes, and I have made many.
    I apologize for the name calling.
    Your problem isn't the problem. Your reaction is the problem.

    http://www.dakotart.com/forum/image.php?type=sigpic&userid=14597&dateline=143749  2005

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    Quote Originally Posted by Adobedude View Post
    I wonder if the heat from welding on the hub flanges has somehow changed the tolerances of the center hole for the bearing??

    What welding? The hubs were turned from a sold chunk of steel, all the tolerances are off.
    Ahhhhh.......well Dave I ASSUMED, that these were stock hubs and that they had been welded up and then re drilled. Make since where I'm coming from???
    I thought I read here that someone was doing that.
    Your problem isn't the problem. Your reaction is the problem.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Motorhead View Post
    Ahhhhh.......well Dave I ASSUMED, that these were stock hubs and that they had been welded up and then re drilled. Make since where I'm coming from???
    I thought I read here that someone was doing that.
    A few have done it...

    Brandon's hub is really nice looking, it's just a tad bit off.
    11.27 @ 118.23
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    Quote Originally Posted by Motorhead View Post
    I appreciate the apology. We all make mistakes, and I have made many.
    I apologize for the name calling.
    It's all good. My friend gets a discount at O'reillys, was $100 for a precision engineering hub assembly a few months before the trans took another shit, has a 3 year warranty so i said why not for only $100.

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    I have been following this thread because I am going to be doing some front end work on my truck. I will be replacing hub and bearings as a unit.

    For what it's worth I looked up Timken JRM4249A 90UE5 bearings on Amazon & at MIBearings LLC.

    Amazon price is $31.24 per bearing but adds note that some Timken bearings are supplied by outside sources and boxed TIMKEN.

    MIBearing price is $67.83 per bearing and lists the bearing as. JRM4249A 90UE5 TRB UNIPAK Assembly. Manufactured by TIMKEN
    Last edited by pplhz03rt; 11-21-2014 at 06:06 PM. Reason: fixed error
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    Temkin HA599406 - Wheel Bearing Hub Assemblies ordered from Summit for my 99
    pplhz99rt

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    I was afraid the I might just be throwing money away because I only detected the slightest bit of play on one side and zilch on the other. But the change when driving was dramatic and immediately noticeable. Truck lost the bothersome bit of steering wander that it had and the front suspension felt tighter. I was planning on replacing but will be in no hurry to do that now.
    pplhz99rt

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    Quote Originally Posted by pplhz03rt View Post
    I was afraid the I might just be throwing money away because I only detected the slightest bit of play on one side and zilch on the other. But the change when driving was dramatic and immediately noticeable. Truck lost the bothersome bit of steering wander that it had and the front suspension felt tighter. I was planning on replacing but will be in no hurry to do that now.

    What bearing did you end up using and did you do both sides?


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    TEMKIN HA599406 wheel bearing hub assembly. I did both sides, ordered the from Summit. While I was there I installed new rotors and pads with stuff from Tire Rack. They had the best price on the slotted cryo rotors that I liked.
    pplhz99rt

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    Default Found this info on the Timken bearings, Set49 is a no go...


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    In a short sentence, what does this mean?

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    although this an old post, bearings or hubs are wearing so i'm thinking more people want info on this item.

    I'm in the Netherlands Europe and therefore i can't hardly or find no parts over here.

    I wanted to do the 03 Durango brake upgrade on my 2000 Dakota, but i can't find any spindle's so i'm looking to get a wrecking yard to send them over to me.
    I will need to order every other part new, by rockauto or napa or something, so i looked to get wich parts i need.
    Because this will cost me a small fortune i looked at the possibility of changing the bearings myself.

    The info i found on the forum over here is very helpful and i found this article related to the same bearings.

    As mentioned in previous post the original Mopar hubs use Timken JRM4249A type bearings.
    They are in general cross-referenced and sold as Timken Set49, but that ain't the right bearing, many people have problems with this bearing.
    So does the SKF FW115, wich is cross-referenced of the Timken Set49.

    When you read the link posted above you see there's a difference in the seal of the bearing, might be there are more things different, and i believe the Timken JRM4249-90UA1 is a good replacement for the stock Timken JRM4249A wich is the original Dodge bearing in the hub.

    As far as i can tell no one has found or reported a hub bearing that's proven to be the same or last for a 100.000 miles wich the originals do.

    If anyone want / could help me out to find a pair of spindle's or the complete setup including brakes, rotors balljoints and all of a 2003 Dodge Durango it's very much appreciated.
    They could be shipped from Reading PA 19608 to the Netherlands.

  24. #99

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    I have the SKF FW115 bearings in my hubs and have had them installed for about 11 or 12 years. So far, I probably have at least 60k miles on them without an issue. I did call SKF about the end of last year/beginning of this year to confirm that the bearings are a tapered roller bearing rather than a dual-row ball bearing style.
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    When I was just out of warranty one of my front wheel bearings went bad. At the time I replaced the bearings only in both hubs with Timken Set 49's. Five, six years ago(?) I did the 03 Durango front knuckle/brake upgrade and while replacing parts, I installed another pair of Set 49's in my OE hubs.
    I've never had an issue with them.

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