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Thread: How to rebuild front hubs 1999 Dakota R/T with new bearings

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    Default How to rebuild front hubs 1999 Dakota R/T with new bearings

    The front hubs on the 1998-2004 2wd Dakota trucks can be rebuilt, rather than replaced. The advantage is the ability to use better Timken or SKF bearings at a fraction of the cost.

    Step 1 - Remove the hub from the spindle

    Using a 35 mm socket, and an impact or huge breaker bar, remove the nut holding the hub on the spindle.



    Step 2 - Remove the bearing from the hub. There are two types of common hubs. The chinese hubs that are frequently used as a replacement are heavier, and look like the one on the left. The bearing is probably not removable. Usually the bearing just breaks apart, and leaves the sleeve and race stuck inside. I have managed to get some of them apart. The stock ones always come apart.





    The replacement hub is much more robust than the original cast hub. But it is much heavier.

    Use a socket and press to push out the old bearing. It will always come out in two or three pieces.



    The original Dodge bearing is a Timken, as seen here.



    Step 3 - Replacement bearings

    As seen here, NAPA sells a house brand, which is actually an SKF bearing, part number FW115. The Timken is part number Set 49



    Use an appropriate size something to push the bearing into the hub. It should only contact the outside of the race, and not the inner bearings. 76mm is the exact size.





    Step 4 - Don't forget the snap ring. I have seen 3 types. All are easy to remove. The one with the holes is the easiest to insert. I use a big pair of needle nose pliers with the tips ground down to fit the holes. Snap ring pliers will bend unless they are really heavy (expensive).



    The most common reason that I have seen for frequently destroying front bearings is that the toe is out of alignment. If you replace the front bearings, you probably need a front alignment as well.
    1999 Dakota LS-swap. Fastest NA 5.9/6.0 full-weight CC. 12.76 at 109.9.
    2000 Durango ZL1 AWD.

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    y2krtaf's Avatar
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    Great stuff!

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    Motorhead's Avatar
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    I'm having problems with a set of "USA" made Timkens Marked Set 815. I read somewhere else that "set 49" was a mislabel of the bearing from Timken. Anyway, mine are from rockauto $50 a peice and they are junk. They had play in them brand new out of the box . I ran them anyway and one destroyed itself in less than two weeks. Had all kinds of popping and grinding noises all the while.

    If you ask me it's a sign of the times.........we all know what everyone in the USA does with their cell phones....even at work, while making bearings apparently.
    This is not the first time I have had issues with Timken bearings and therefore will never buy their product again.

    And yes I was very careful during the installation to not damage the bearings by pressing in by the outer race diameter.

    Have the video to show the play after two weeks.
    I'm ready to try SKF......
    Also worth noting is that many of these bearings use ball bearings. Avoid this part number(513058) used by National, Precision, Federal Mogul, Carquest, Moog for their ball type bearings. Avoid anything but a roller bearing because it has way more surface area for wear than do the balls.









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    Last edited by Motorhead; 08-19-2014 at 07:39 AM.
    Your problem isn't the problem. Your reaction is the problem.

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    stevenz1inoc's Avatar
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    Pull the dust shield and pack it with even more grease than it came with. A fellow member mentioned to me that he pulled a new bearing dust over off only to find that a minimal amount of grease was used during assembly. He packed the bearings from both sides with grease and installed the dust shields. I now do this on all new bearings I buy. The idler and tensioner bearings were giving me issues and the lack of grease in the replacement bearings was the problem.

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    Motorhead's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by stevenz1inoc View Post
    Pull the dust shield and pack it with even more grease than it came with. A fellow member mentioned to me that he pulled a new bearing dust over off only to find that a minimal amount of grease was used during assembly. He packed the bearings from both sides with grease and installed the dust shields. I now do this on all new bearings I buy. The idler and tensioner bearings were giving me issues and the lack of grease in the replacement bearings was the problem.
    The advice on packing is appreciated. Will try that on a couple of the old ones that are not too loose. Maybe even on another brand that uses the rubber dust seals.

    The Timkens say; "Warning do not disassemble" on their metal dust shield. Not really sure I can remove the seals without damage. At $50 a pop they ought to be lubing me and since they both have excessive play it's really pointless to do anything other than send em back.

    I have a couple of old used oem hubs that have no play after 100,000 miles. Im running one Raybestos professional grade that has no play after 10,000 miles.

    Im now interested in SKF or who ever made bearings for the Raybestos hubs (which have no markings and appear to be Chinese).
    Last edited by Motorhead; 08-19-2014 at 03:32 PM.
    Your problem isn't the problem. Your reaction is the problem.

    http://www.dakotart.com/forum/image.php?type=sigpic&userid=14597&dateline=143749  2005

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    Quote Originally Posted by casias View Post
    The front hubs on the 1998-2004 2wd Dakota trucks can be rebuilt, rather than replaced. The advantage is the ability to use better Timken or SKF bearings at a fraction of the cost.

    How long ago did you buy the SKF bearings in the pic??? The Number on the box is a good number that is on many cross reference charts.

    SKF has sent me an email claiming that they do not sell that bearing by itself but rather in a hub assembly only......I see the Napa logos and will call my local Napa when they open. What is Your Napa asking for the SKF's???

    To make things worse I'm being told some of the bearing shops around the country are not allowed to sell these automotive type bearings. WTF??
    Last edited by Motorhead; 08-19-2014 at 03:33 PM.
    Your problem isn't the problem. Your reaction is the problem.

    http://www.dakotart.com/forum/image.php?type=sigpic&userid=14597&dateline=143749  2005

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    I bought these NAPA bearings about 2 months ago? The counter guy told me they were SKF. He's been with NAPA for years, and always seems to know things.

    The bearings have about 3,000 miles on them. This truck drives alot. No trouble so far.

    I bought the Timken set 49 to do another one coming up.

    Guess I will be my own control, and experiment.
    1999 Dakota LS-swap. Fastest NA 5.9/6.0 full-weight CC. 12.76 at 109.9.
    2000 Durango ZL1 AWD.

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    My Timken set 49 were loose out of the box, I'll be changing them out this week.
    11.27 @ 118.23
    2017 NM Mopar Challenge Series Champion

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    KTK00R/T's Avatar
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    I'll be installing these: TIMKEN HA599528 this week.. Complete hub. You guys Grease the spindle where the bearing rides too?
    - Josh

    2000 Solar Yellow R/T - Cam Only Truck
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    nope. You could...maybe add anti-seize.

    Mostly stock:
    Open air Cleaner
    52mm TB
    No cat, flowmaster
    Way more mods to come

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    Quote Originally Posted by 97dakota318 View Post
    nope. You could...maybe add anti-seize.
    It would go away in 5 seconds, it's not a grease for moving parts.
    11.27 @ 118.23
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    Quote Originally Posted by KTK00R/T View Post
    I'll be installing these: TIMKEN HA599528 this week.. Complete hub. You guys Grease the spindle where the bearing rides too?
    Only to ease removal later...
    Keep in mind that the inner race is not supposed to rotate on the spindle at all.
    Your problem isn't the problem. Your reaction is the problem.

    http://www.dakotart.com/forum/image.php?type=sigpic&userid=14597&dateline=143749  2005

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    Quote Originally Posted by Adobedude View Post
    It would go away in 5 seconds, it's not a grease for moving parts.
    I think he was referring to a previous quote in which it was suggested to coat the spindle not the bearings themselves with grease in an effort to aid removal of the hub assembly at a later date. Some have had trouble removing hubs, although I haven't.
    Your problem isn't the problem. Your reaction is the problem.

    http://www.dakotart.com/forum/image.php?type=sigpic&userid=14597&dateline=143749  2005

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    Quote Originally Posted by Motorhead View Post
    I think he was referring to a previous quote in which it was suggested to coat the spindle not the bearings themselves with grease in an effort to aid removal of the hub assembly at a later date. Some have had trouble removing hubs, although I haven't.
    Noted
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    clrwatrtomsrt's Avatar
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    This is a great thread. I got online and found the SKF bearings at Finditparts.com for 68.97 shipped. Does anyone happen to know the spindle nut torque and torquing procedure?

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    Quote Originally Posted by clrwatrtomsrt View Post
    This is a great thread. I got online and found the SKF bearings at Finditparts.com for 68.97 shipped. Does anyone happen to know the spindle nut torque and torquing procedure?

    185 ft.lbs.
    No procedure.
    Oriellys stocks that part number for $40 ea.
    I returned my SKF bearings when one made a popping noise backing out the driveway.
    Upon closer inspection the SKF are ball bearings and not roller bearings.
    Your problem isn't the problem. Your reaction is the problem.

    http://www.dakotart.com/forum/image.php?type=sigpic&userid=14597&dateline=143749  2005

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    I think it's 200 ft lbs. but not 100% sure, and as far as torquing procedure goes just set your torque wrench properly and tighten away
    - 99' Dodge Dakota R/T CC -
    - 1 of 4 R/T Moon roof trucks; that I've seen anyway. -
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  18. #18
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    Attached Images Attached Images
    Your problem isn't the problem. Your reaction is the problem.

    http://www.dakotart.com/forum/image.php?type=sigpic&userid=14597&dateline=143749  2005

  19. #19
    clrwatrtomsrt's Avatar
    Uncle Tommy

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    Thanks Motorhead. I thought i remembered that you should be spinning the hub while torqueing the nut.

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