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Thread: What numbers should I expect

  1. #1

    Default What numbers should I expect

    Ok so my truck is down right now, getting my tranny built by msaine currently. I'm just kinda curious what to expect from my truck in the 1/8 with my current mods.

    DA would be around 250'
    M1 2bbl with large turtle
    180* tstat
    clutch fan delete
    2800 stall
    built tranny
    14x3 filter
    autolite plugs
    pph headers with Y pipe, 3" high flow cat and spintech 6000
    hemifever tune
    50mm tb
    26" tall street tires (255/50/17 Nitto NT555s), with stock gears and wheels
    If it matters or not full poly suspension, lowered 2/4 on belltech leafs and 2" blocks in the rear with belltech street perf. shocks.
    No spare or winch or tools, coolant overflow/shroud and all heat shields removed
    I'd take my tonneau and tailgate off for the drag strip as well. (if it would help? I know its weight off the wrong end but its still weight.)


    I intend to throw it on the dyno as soon as its back together and start finally taking it to the drag strip to have some fun. Just kinda curious what I should expect, and i'll be sure to report my findings afterwards.
    Last edited by Blue beast; 02-21-2014 at 10:01 AM.

  2. #2
    Plumcrazy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blue beast View Post
    Ok so my truck is down right now, getting my tranny built by msaine currently. I'm just kinda curious what to expect from my truck in the 1/8 with my current mods.

    DA would be around 250'
    M1 2bbl with large turtle
    180* tstat
    clutch fan delete
    2800 stall
    built tranny
    14x3 filter
    autolite plugs
    pph headers with Y pipe, 3" high flow cat and spintech 6000
    hemifever tune
    50mm tb
    26" tall street tires (255/50/17 Nitto NT555s), with stock gears and wheels
    If it matters or not full poly suspension, lowered 2/4 on belltech leafs and 2" blocks in the rear with belltech street perf. shocks.
    No spare or winch or tools, coolant overflow/shroud and all heat shields removed
    I'd take my tonneau and tailgate off for the drag strip as well. (if it would help? I know its weight off the wrong end but its still weight.)


    I intend to throw it on the dyno as soon as its back together and start finally taking it to the drag strip to have some fun. Just kinda curious what I should expect, and i'll be sure to report my findings afterwards.
    I do not have an answer to your question on 1/8 mile times. The gurus may correct me if i'm wrong here, However, I don't think you will have very much to gain for the money spent on the dyno, or at least till you did more upgrades to the engine. You already have a Tune, not sure if its canned or custom. Just my 2 pennies.
    2000 RC R/T Black 1 of 321

  3. #3

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    Quote Originally Posted by Plumcrazy View Post
    I do not have an answer to your question on 1/8 mile times. The gurus may correct me if i'm wrong here, However, I don't think you will have very much to gain for the money spent on the dyno, or at least till you did more upgrades to the engine. You already have a Tune, not sure if its canned or custom. Just my 2 pennies.
    It's a canned tune, I just wanted to put it on there for a couple baseline pulls before I decide to redo the top end just to see where i'm at.

  4. #4

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    low or mid 9s. traction will matter but im guessing youll have to feather the pedal off the line cut. below a 2.15 60ft
    Brad
    00 CC IB sport 360
    98 RC white sport mildly worked v6, used as a truck!

  5. #5

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    Quote Originally Posted by Addicted2Blue00 View Post
    low or mid 9s. traction will matter but im guessing youll have to feather the pedal off the line cut. below a 2.15 60ft
    Couple of noob drag racing questions:

    Should I air down street tires? If so what #?
    Should I do a burnout on street tires?

  6. #6


    Blown and Squirted

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    I would start at 25psi in the rears and 40psi in the fronts, drive AROUND the water, back up (but not into the water), and do a short burnout just to clean off the tires.

    '99 R/T- MSIIextra fuel/spark/idle, ZCP mx422 supercharged, ZCP Tbrake 727, PPC 10" 3800, 4.10, (\/) Headers, 2.5" Duals, Truetrac, Boyd Timeless 6's, Hotchkis TVS.
    Z Code Performance Website

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    Plumcrazy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Addicted2Blue00 View Post
    low or mid 9s. traction will matter but im guessing youll have to feather the pedal off the line cut. below a 2.15 60ft
    Wow, thats it? Had a big ole heavy 1965 Belvedere go 9.60's with a small cam 360 and 3.23 gears. Figured it would be a lil quicker with the 3.91's.
    2000 RC R/T Black 1 of 321

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    Quote Originally Posted by Plumcrazy View Post
    Wow, thats it? Had a big ole heavy 1965 Belvedere go 9.60's with a small cam 360 and 3.23 gears. Figured it would be a lil quicker with the 3.91's.
    I went 9.71 in the eighth in my '02 CC with just a M1 and a SCT.

    edit: Also went 8.99 with full bolt ons in a RC. It also had a T-56 trans vs. the 46re and I had a terrible 2.4 second 60ft time.

  9. #9

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    It'd actually be like 4.21s with a 26" tall tire. I'm personally thinking I can break into the 8s but I'll let the more experienced guys chime in. Martin is gonna take about 3 weeks to build my tranny so I just gotta wait it out in the meantime. Needless to say I'm rather anxious. Between installing headers and a built tranny with a stall all at once it's gonna be a big difference regardless I'm sure.
    Last edited by Blue beast; 02-21-2014 at 12:33 PM.

  10. #10

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    Quote Originally Posted by Plumcrazy View Post
    Wow, thats it? Had a big ole heavy 1965 Belvedere go 9.60's with a small cam 360 and 3.23 gears. Figured it would be a lil quicker with the 3.91's.
    a completely factory r/t's at my local 1/8 would run 9.90-10.10 all day long, exhaust -MP ecu -cold air intake was around 9.5-9.7s and my alt is 850ft
    Quote Originally Posted by Blue beast View Post
    It'd actually be like 4.21s with a 26" tall tire. I'm personally thinking I can break into the 8s but I'll let the more experienced guys chime in. Martin is gonna take about 3 weeks to build my tranny so I just gotta wait it out in the meantime. Needless to say I'm rather anxious. Between installing headers and a built tranny with a stall all at once it's gonna be a big difference regardless I'm sure.
    smaller street tire = lower gear ratio = easier to spin hence the reason i said feather the gas off the line and bad 60ft. last time i went my trans would hit 2nd -with street tires- breaking the tires loose halfway down the track causing the rearend to get sideways to the right a little.

    truth is it aint easy to push these trucks compared to other vehicles until you add n2o or forced induction but then traction is the other half.
    Brad
    00 CC IB sport 360
    98 RC white sport mildly worked v6, used as a truck!

  11. #11


    Danno's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Plumcrazy View Post
    Wow, thats it? Had a big ole heavy 1965 Belvedere go 9.60's with a small cam 360 and 3.23 gears. Figured it would be a lil quicker with the 3.91's.
    65 Belvedere is also about 500-700 lbs lighter than a RC Dakota Maybe even more...

    99 DA RC To Be Discovered AKA Smokey
    98 DA CC 11.59@118 AKA Barney

    [Duner] : I was afraid I was going to go too fast and scare myself. Lucky for me - the DA rose up to save me.

    [Kotta390] : Oh that's right! Well FML.....Looks like I am getting shafted because of my bore size

    [BlakDak71] : I don't run oil, I run a special blend consisting of Hellman's mayo and the tears of a pregnant mermaid

    [Kotta390] : My electric water pump puts out too much fuel at idle and is not a variable pump which makes it overheat in the summer at idle if I sit too long

    [KotaRT] : Ed, you can have cake, as long as I get something in return

  12. #12
    Plumcrazy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Danno View Post
    65 Belvedere is also about 500-700 lbs lighter than a RC Dakota Maybe even more...
    NO SHIT? I can't remember the weight........but felt like a boat.....drove like one too....dippin an swaying....LOL
    2000 RC R/T Black 1 of 321

  13. #13


    Danno's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Plumcrazy View Post
    NO SHIT? I can't remember the weight........but felt like a boat.....drove like one too....dippin an swaying....LOL
    A 65 Belvedere with a small block in it would have most likely been around 3500 lbs MAX weight. Could have been as low as 3300 as well depending on trim level and options etc.

    Typical RC without weight reduction is over 4k lbs...

    99 DA RC To Be Discovered AKA Smokey
    98 DA CC 11.59@118 AKA Barney

    [Duner] : I was afraid I was going to go too fast and scare myself. Lucky for me - the DA rose up to save me.

    [Kotta390] : Oh that's right! Well FML.....Looks like I am getting shafted because of my bore size

    [BlakDak71] : I don't run oil, I run a special blend consisting of Hellman's mayo and the tears of a pregnant mermaid

    [Kotta390] : My electric water pump puts out too much fuel at idle and is not a variable pump which makes it overheat in the summer at idle if I sit too long

    [KotaRT] : Ed, you can have cake, as long as I get something in return

  14. #14
    Plumcrazy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Danno View Post
    A 65 Belvedere with a small block in it would have most likely been around 3500 lbs MAX weight. Could have been as low as 3300 as well depending on trim level and options etc.

    Typical RC without weight reduction is over 4k lbs...
    2000 RC R/T Black 1 of 321

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    Quote Originally Posted by Plumcrazy View Post
    When comparing these to old Mopar metal, this is the visual that I have found to be handy.

    A RC is equivalent to a 71 Big Block Charger in weight.

    A CC is equivalent to a 360 powered C body in weight.

    Puts things into perspective very nicely, and shows how fast some of these trucks really are. Put ANY of these motors in an A Body, and you would knock a second to a second and a half off your quarter times that we show in the Dakota.

    99 DA RC To Be Discovered AKA Smokey
    98 DA CC 11.59@118 AKA Barney

    [Duner] : I was afraid I was going to go too fast and scare myself. Lucky for me - the DA rose up to save me.

    [Kotta390] : Oh that's right! Well FML.....Looks like I am getting shafted because of my bore size

    [BlakDak71] : I don't run oil, I run a special blend consisting of Hellman's mayo and the tears of a pregnant mermaid

    [Kotta390] : My electric water pump puts out too much fuel at idle and is not a variable pump which makes it overheat in the summer at idle if I sit too long

    [KotaRT] : Ed, you can have cake, as long as I get something in return

  16. #16

    KotaRT's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blue beast View Post
    Ok so my truck is down right now, getting my tranny built by msaine currently. I'm just kinda curious what to expect from my truck in the 1/8 with my current mods.

    DA would be around 250'
    M1 2bbl with large turtle
    180* tstat
    clutch fan delete
    2800 stall
    built tranny
    14x3 filter
    autolite plugs
    pph headers with Y pipe, 3" high flow cat and spintech 6000
    hemifever tune
    50mm tb
    26" tall street tires (255/50/17 Nitto NT555s), with stock gears and wheels
    If it matters or not full poly suspension, lowered 2/4 on belltech leafs and 2" blocks in the rear with belltech street perf. shocks.
    No spare or winch or tools, coolant overflow/shroud and all heat shields removed
    I'd take my tonneau and tailgate off for the drag strip as well. (if it would help? I know its weight off the wrong end but its still weight.)


    I intend to throw it on the dyno as soon as its back together and start finally taking it to the drag strip to have some fun. Just kinda curious what I should expect, and i'll be sure to report my findings afterwards.
    I wouldn't expect much with street tires. Though my tires are probably a lot worse than yours in terms of drag racing. I also had 4.56 gears and a locker, which made the street tires at the track even more useless. The majority of your ET will be spent in the first 60'


    ...seriously, that's what it feels like. I can't wait to get some DRs haha
    Matt
    DRTC # 1163

  17. #17


    Broo42's Avatar
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    I would say mid 9's at best on street tires. I think I got 9.0s out of my 99 with close to the same mods, minus the stall, on slicks.
    2004 SRT4 Moar Pah Coming DD
    2002 Dakota R/T 12.376@110.84


    "Is there any way to make this easier? I'm way confused now. I just tried to post a video, but instead I got my dick caught in the ceiling fan" Wyotech_Cuda440

  18. #18

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    Quote Originally Posted by KotaRT View Post
    I wouldn't expect much with street tires. Though my tires are probably a lot worse than yours in terms of drag racing. I also had 4.56 gears and a locker, which made the street tires at the track even more useless. The majority of your ET will be spent in the first 60'


    ...seriously, that's what it feels like. I can't wait to get some DRs haha
    i wouldnt mind seeing yours run in person at the local strip
    Brad
    00 CC IB sport 360
    98 RC white sport mildly worked v6, used as a truck!

  19. #19

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    I actually looking into some nitto invos for the rear, and use the 555s on the front. The invos are a 260 rating so they should be a little stickier. I need to set aside some money for some 15x8 wheels and slicks. Or perhaps some drag radials. I need a driveshaft loop and a 52mm tb first though. I'm sure I'll be at the upper limit of my DIY ported tb.

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