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Thread: The FlyinRyan SCT Frequently Asked Questions thread.

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    FlyinRyan's Avatar
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    Default The FlyinRyan SCT Frequently Asked Questions thread.

    One of the most crucial aspects of performance, regardless of the level of build or type of motor, is the tuning. Way back when, you could tune a carb in your driveway with the help of a few jets, but with modern technology it is a little more complex. Because of the volume of messages I receive regarding the tuning process, I am putting up this FAQ thread to hopefully streamline the process and to help me better manage my workload.

    If you have a question you feel needs to be put on here, Email me and I'll see what I can do.

    DISCLAIMER: Proceed at your own risk.

    With that out of the way, let the fun begin....

    GENERAL INFO AND BASIC STUFF

    Q: What is SCT?
    A: SCT refers to a handheld tuner that allows for your PCM to be re-written with modified code so your fuel and spark maps are optimized for your particular setup. In theory, a custom tune is specific to your modifications, resulting in better drivability, more reliability, better gas mileage and efficiency from a factory or "canned" tune.

    Q: Why would I want a custom tune? Does the handheld come pre-loaded with tunes? How much does it cost?
    A: Aside from the reasons above, custom tunes squeeze every last bit of power your build is capable of. Even in factory form, the stock PCM calibration leaves alot of room for improvement, and the more modifcations you add on, the less capable the PCM is to run everything properly. To put it quite simply, it isn't capable of adjusting to the parameters we need it set for for max performance/efficiency without re-programming.

    The handheld comes as a blank unless tunes have been specifically pre-loaded for your vehicle. it is programmed to your specific PCM number (long list of letters/numbers on your PCM, typically located on or around the firewall on the passenger side).

    Q: How does the SCT Xcal2, X3, and X4 actually tune?
    A: The SCT software puts all the fuel and spark & transmission data coding into rows and columns , referred to as tables. I change the inputs into these tables to make it do what I want it to do. Receiving different tunes, aside from the common method of dynotuning with the tuner present, is done via Email. You can upload new tunes by plugging your handheld into your computer. From there, you plug your handheld into your OBDII port (below the steering column). The changes in PCM coding are eventually learned by the PCM. Your stock program is saved should you want/need to return to it.

    Q: My local Ford/GM tuning house just told me they have Dodge SCT software, or can do it with the Pro Racer Package and they said they can tune my [Insert Chrysler/Jeep/Dodge Vehicle Here] very soon. Is this a good idea? I’m not fond of email tuning….
    A: IMHO, No. DCX PCMs behave much differently than GM/Ford stuff and as such need to be tuned by someone proficient with DCX software…I frequently receive calls from both customers and other tuners alike about trucks at their shop looking for a tune that will drive halfway decent because they often give up at doing it on their own.

    Can a SCT handheld tune more than 1 vehicle at a time?
    A: No. Each SCT device locks to the vehicle the tune is installed on, however, if you return the vehicle to the stock / original factory tune using the SCT device, your SCT device can then be used on a different vehicle.

    Q: I have other DCX vehicles besides my Dakota RT, and I’d like you to tune them too. What vehicles can SCT currently tune?
    A: Basically, any Chrysler/Jeep/Dodge car, truck or SUV between 1996 and 2014.

    Edit: Here is an "unofficial" support list for what is currently supported by SCT. Some of these are not official...in some cases I have access to calibrations that the general public does not.

    Jeep:
    Wrangler- 97-2004 4.0s, 2007-2012 3.8, 2013-2014 3.6 (Email about 2.5 I4, 2.4 I4 and 2005/2006 4.0 support)
    Cherokee- "XJ" Chassis-96-2001 4.0s (email about 2.5 I4) support

    Grand Cherokee models:
    "ZJ" Chassis-1996-1998 4.0s, 5.2s, 1998 5.9,
    "WJ"-1999-2004 4.0/4.7/4.7 HO,
    ​"WK"- 2005 3.7/4.7/5.7 HEMI (Email about 2006 3.7/4.7 support)​, 2006 5.7/6.1 SRT8. Please email about 2007-2010 Jeep 3.7 WK Support.
    ​"WK2"- 2010-2014 3.6/5.7/6.4

    Liberty:
    "KJ" - Liberty- 3.7 V6- 2002-2006
    "KK" - Liberty/Dodge Nitro- email about support, not currently supported
    "KL" new generation Cherokee- 2013+- All gas engines

    Dodge:
    Ram: 96-2014, all gas engines (includes SRT10 models)
    Dakota 96-2009- All engines
    Durango: 96-2014- All engines
    Charger/300/Magnum- 05-2014, All engines
    Viper- 96-2007, all engines
    Challenger- 2009-2014, All engines
    Neon SRT4- 2003-2005

    Chrysler:
    Pacifica (yes, really)- 3.5- 2004
    300/300C/300 SRT8- all years and engines


    Q: Why does it matter what year vehicle I have? I have the same motor as everyone else......
    A: Over the last several years, DCX has revised it's PCM logic several times (revisions A through J on the PCM number) , and starting in mid-2003, DCX switched to an entirely different form of PCM control (known and referred to NGC- aka Next Generation Controller). To further confuse you, some 03-06 models are JTEC still. This can be verified by sending your PCM number.

    Q:I have no clue where my PCM is, or what numbers you need. Please help!!!
    On almost all Chrysler vehicles, the PCM can be found on the passenger side in the engine bay, either on the fender, or on the firewall. Look for the big black text, should be 3 numbers and 2 letters in almost all cases. For example, "237AG" would be an example of a 2001 Dakota RT 5.9 PCM PN. The full PN is much longer, but typically the last 5 characters is enough for me to go off of.

    Q: I have a OBDI vehicle. What are my options?
    A: Mopar PCM, OBDII harness/PCM swap, Megasquirt, or Standalone. Sorry. Due to lack of demand I really doubt there will be any tuning interface for the older OBDI vehicles anytime soon.

    Q: How do we contact you?
    I prefer to be able to speak to someone in real time. I am very busy and don't really want to take up hours,days, weeks, to answer questions back and forth. With that said, here are the best ways to reach me:
    Text: 732 539 9614
    Email: ryan@frptuning.com
    Please do not private message me.

    TUNING DETAILS

    Canned Tune Info:
    What is a canned tune? What can I expect for gains, etc?
    A canned tune is essentially a base tune that is designed for stock or lightly modified trucks. My canned tune is different in the sense that it is not simply a cleaned up stock file, but rather a custom tune designed for bolt on trucks.

    Both my 318 and 360 canned tunes are designed around the following modifications:

    Plenum Plate/Revised Mopar Gasket (either or will suffice)
    52mm Throttle Body
    Headers
    Exhaust
    Cold Air Intake
    Stock injectors.
    NGK BKR6E plugs

    Most of the trucks I tune do not end up on the dyno. However my bolt-on tune has been extensively data logged and street-tested.
    You can expect firmer shifts, drastically improved throttle response, part throttle acceleration, WOT of course will be improved as well.
    On a stock motor, the plenum needs to have a plenum plate or revised Mopar gasket or else I will not tune it. The plenum gasket is a known failure point. On a mechanically sound truck, my 93 canned tune should put down approximately 15-20 WHP more across the RPM range.
    Please note that my canned tune is not compatible with any of the commercially available intake manifolds (M1 2bbl/M1 4bbl/Hughes Airgap)

    Introduction To Custom Tuning

    I have most or all of the modifications listed in your canned tune description, but I have an aftermarket intake manifold. Why can't I use the canned tune for this?
    In my R&D when developing the tunes, I found that going to an aftermarket intake manifold specifically greatly changed the fueling and timing demands of even a mostly stock Magnum engine. So, I have developed a known good tune that has great drivability and makes awesome power.

    Using the canned tune with a aftermarket intake manifold will cause lean fueling, degraded performance and potentially some detonation at WOT.


    Q: How do I go about getting the best custom tune possible?
    A: Here is what you need, please pay close attention to the unit you have.
    X2, PN 9550
    1)Laptop- PC only unless you run a MAC with dual OS
    2)Datalogger - Innovate Motorsports PN 3832, or 3806, OR you can run PLX hardware

    X3, PN 3200
    1)Laptop- PC only
    2)Wideband- AEM 30-4110 w/ new Bosch 4.9 Sensor
    SCT 9608 Firewire cable, makes install a little easier

    X4 will be same as X3.

    What is a wideband? Why do I need it?
    A wideband is a sensor that allows me to read Air/Fuel Ratio- this is a critical tuning detail. It, in essence, tells me whether I need to add or subtract fueling to dial in a given tune.

    But but but _______tuner said I didn't need one....


    Injectors/Fuel Pump:
    Guys, I don't care what the internet tells you. There is no mileage/HP gains to be found in injector "upgrades". Emissions, maybe, but that's about it.
    On a 318/360, the stock injectors are fine till approximately 335 whp naturally aspirated. That will cover most heads/cam setups.
    Hot 365s: Need to go to a Ford Racing 24# or 30# injector.
    408s: Ford Racing 30s or Chrysler 6.1 Hemi injectors
    Boosted Applications:
    318s/360s/408s under 600 WHP: 1996-1999: Siemens Deka 60s. I have had ALOT of problems with guys buying bogus sets of 42 lb Ford reman injectors, so I am no longer using them unless I know they are genuine Ford injectors. 60s will be small enough to dial back, yet large enough to cover 95% of the boosted setups.
    2000-2003 below 600 WHP: Cobra 39s, 6.4 Hemi injectors, or Siemens Deka 60s with USCAR connectors.
    Above 600 WHP: Ford Racing 80s, Injector Dynamics injectors appropriate to the power level you intend on making.

    Above 335 WHP, I would consider a fuel pump upgrade mandatory. Most go with a Walbro 255, which is good for 500 whp and beyond.
    Above 500 WHP, unless running water/meth injection, I would consider a Walbro 400lph or equivalent pump mandatory.
    During fuel pump install, it is wise to upgrade the fuel pump wiring to minimize voltage drop.
    I require injector data for any injectors I end up tuning for- period. No exceptions.

    Throttle Bodies:

    Figure out what kind of CRANK HP you want to make, multiply that HP number by 2.2....that's how many CFM (cubic feet/minute) you need to not have any restriction on the inlet (@28"inHg)
    Example: 500 crank HP x 2.2= 1100 CFM throttle body required.

    That all being said....unless you're using a universal TB, here is what you need to know:
    Stock/Bolt-on 318/360: 52mm
    Heads/Cam 318/360: 55mm
    390/408: 58mm

    Intake Manifolds
    The data does not lie.
    The M1 2bbl and Airgap are basically comparable. The M1 2bbl flows approx 270cfm, while the Airgap flows 255cfm. The Airgap does have a larger inlet which is nice for bolting on larger throttle bodies. The M1 2bbl requires minor porting on the inlet to do so.
    These manifolds are both well suited for a heads/cam 318 or 360.
    For 390s/408s/426s, I would insist on an M1 4bbl unless you are building a stump puller type application.


    Spark Plugs
    Magnum-based Engines
    Stock/bolt on 318/360: NGK BKR6E
    323/365: NGK BKR6E unless very high cyl pressure, then NGK BKR7E
    390/408/426: NGK BKR7E
    All boosted/nitrous Magnum engines get NGK BKR7E's unless stated otherwise

    Other Chrysler engines
    3.7/4.7: NGK BKR6E-11
    Jeep 4.0: NGK BKR6E
    Jeep 4.0-based stroker engines or boosted 4.0s: NGK BKR7E
    Last edited by FlyinRyan; 09-22-2016 at 02:39 AM.
    RYAN/TUNED

    Got questions?!? Get the answers ->>> http://www.dakotart.com/forum/showth...estions-thread
    For fastest response please text or email at ryan@frptuning.com ,please no PM's!!!

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    FlyinRyan's Avatar
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    I have made several edits, and added alot more info in an effort to minimize answering the same questions repeatedly.
    RYAN/TUNED

    Got questions?!? Get the answers ->>> http://www.dakotart.com/forum/showth...estions-thread
    For fastest response please text or email at ryan@frptuning.com ,please no PM's!!!

  3. #3
    FlyinRyan's Avatar
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    Reserved
    RYAN/TUNED

    Got questions?!? Get the answers ->>> http://www.dakotart.com/forum/showth...estions-thread
    For fastest response please text or email at ryan@frptuning.com ,please no PM's!!!

  4. #4
    clrwatrtomsrt's Avatar
    Uncle Tommy

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    Default

    thanks Ryan. This is a great read for those of us who want to better understand how to make our trucks run better.
    Education and knowledge combat ignorance and intuition every time.
    tom

  5. #5

    Default

    avoid those horrid 42lb ford injectors like the plague. Sorry to do that to you Ryan. Nice new deka's this time around.

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    FlyinRyan's Avatar
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    Default

    Added some new details.
    RYAN/TUNED

    Got questions?!? Get the answers ->>> http://www.dakotart.com/forum/showth...estions-thread
    For fastest response please text or email at ryan@frptuning.com ,please no PM's!!!

  7. #7
    FlyinRyan's Avatar
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    Edited and organized, added some additional info.
    RYAN/TUNED

    Got questions?!? Get the answers ->>> http://www.dakotart.com/forum/showth...estions-thread
    For fastest response please text or email at ryan@frptuning.com ,please no PM's!!!

  8. #8

    Slowkoda's Avatar
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    Default

    This is all great info man! Thanks for this. It helped clear up a lot of confusion.


    "Horse power is how fast you hit the wall, torque is how far you take the wall with you"

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