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Thread: bubbling thru paint. I need HELP quik

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    brandofamily's Avatar
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    Default bubbling thru paint. I need HELP quik

    I'm trying to fix some spots on my rocker panels.
    I sanding it all down, to bare metal in spots, cleaned it all up and primed it with a filler primer. Painted it all nice. Then a few days later I noticed bubbles in a spot in the paint. The paint was lifting in one of the spots that was sanded to bare metal. I sanded it back down... to bare metal and shot filler primer on it last night then let it sit over night. This morning the bare metal spot is showing signs of bubbling again.
    Do I need a sealer primer before or after the filler primer?

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    make sure you use a high quality grease and wax remover before you spray ANYTHING onto the bare metal. paint don't stick to oil, grease, grime, wax, etc.

    and use 80 or 120 grit on the bare metal, put some scratch marks into the metal for the primer to grab onto. then use 400 on the primer to smooth it out before spraying color
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    Quote Originally Posted by Filthy Filbert View Post
    make sure you use a high quality grease and wax remover before you spray ANYTHING onto the bare metal. paint don't stick to oil, grease, grime, wax, etc.

    and use 80 or 120 grit on the bare metal, put some scratch marks into the metal for the primer to grab onto. then use 400 on the primer to smooth it out before spraying color
    OK so I have 100 grit for the bare metal... can I clean w/ paint thinner or alcohol?

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    You're going to need some etching primer for the bare metal spots first and then the filler primer over that.
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    Paint thinner has oils in it IIRC. Lacquer thinner or even brake clean will leave an oil free surface.
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    Kind of a thread jack, but still a paint issue.
    I sanded & painted the mirror backs on our M-home a couple days ago. I used the Fusion paint cause it was on some bare plastic areas. One mirror needed a few more coats, so I sanded & wiped with a dry/clean blue shop towel. Sprayed the paint & it started wrinkling within seconds!! What gives! Same can of paint, clean surface! I'm PISSED!

    (OH, I did this the next day).
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    Make sure you have a quality water trap too. Be certain that the spray gun is COMPLETELY clean and free of any past paint and/or cleaner before shooting.
    If you haven't lived for something, you'll die for nothing.

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    Quote Originally Posted by 99dart View Post
    Kind of a thread jack, but still a paint issue.
    I sanded & painted the mirror backs on our M-home a couple days ago. I used the Fusion paint cause it was on some bare plastic areas. One mirror needed a few more coats, so I sanded & wiped with a dry/clean blue shop towel. Sprayed the paint & it started wrinkling within seconds!! What gives! Same can of paint, clean surface! I'm PISSED!

    (OH, I did this the next day).
    Careful w/ the recoat time w/ Krylon. If you don't do it within 1 hr your have to wait like 7 days. Ask me how I know

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    Quote Originally Posted by ScojoDak View Post
    Make sure you have a quality water trap too. Be certain that the spray gun is COMPLETELY clean and free of any past paint and/or cleaner before shooting.
    I WISH I had a gun. This is pure rattle can...

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    Were they rust bubbles to begin with?
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    Quote Originally Posted by 99dart View Post
    Kind of a thread jack, but still a paint issue.
    I sanded & painted the mirror backs on our M-home a couple days ago. I used the Fusion paint cause it was on some bare plastic areas. One mirror needed a few more coats, so I sanded & wiped with a dry/clean blue shop towel. Sprayed the paint & it started wrinkling within seconds!! What gives! Same can of paint, clean surface! I'm PISSED!

    (OH, I did this the next day).
    I had the exact same thing happen when I was painting the putter edge of my tail lights. Huge fucking piss off. I think it was because used the infamous rattle can. Must have not shaken it well and thinner came out instead of paint..
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    looks like the basics were covered-

    Make sure it has a good surface texture- 180-220 grit is fine

    Make sure its clean- wax and grease remover, paint thinner, isopropyl alcohol, brake cleaner, etc.

    Use an "etching" primer under the filler primer- this is a single thin coat that guarantees good adhesion to bare metal.

    Don't apply the primer if its too hot out (above 85 is probably too hot) and apply it in 3-6 thin coats. If its too hot or you spray it on too thick, the outside will skin over while the inner layers of paint are still evaporating the solvents- you will end up with solvent bubbles that look like blisters or pinholes all over the surface.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Black98R/T View Post
    Were they rust bubbles to begin with?
    Well there was a bubble in the paint, but it was flexible. like there was air trapped. So being a smart guy I poked it. The bubble burst. So now I had to fix it. Under was some rust. I've ground that all out and cleaned it up.
    Last edited by brandofamily; 07-05-2013 at 01:02 AM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by wyotech_cuda440 View Post
    Don't apply the primer if its too hot out (above 85 is probably too hot) and apply it in 3-6 thin coats.
    Luckily it's been cool here in the midwest.

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    if you tried to paint over spots of rust, even if just surface rust, you can get bubbles like that. there may be dirt/oil 'trapped' in the rust. make sure you have CLEAN bare metal for the paint to stick
    --Tom
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    DannyMopar
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    Dupont has an excellent rattle can etch prime if u cannot spray the Variprime.....

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    Well I got the passenger side done. Turned out OK even though the silver is a bit brighter than what the body shop sprayed a few years back.
    Started on the drive side... finished prepping the one door jam area and that went great.
    Got to the cab corner and .... not so good.... last shop that cleaned the rockers up ground out the rusty spot and just filled the hole w/ bondo. There was at least a 1/4" of bondo covering the area and a whole shit load filling the cavity...
    I'm in over my head now... and I was doing so well...
    Off to the body shop I guess...

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    just because you have a deep scratch in it like 80 grit, cleaned it well, and self etch, or even epoxy it. It can still bubble because there can be tiny pin craters where there is rust. I would recommend sand blasting, this will make sure there is NO rust residue anywhere. Whereas 80 grit by hand, or a D/A, yes you may get 90% of it, but you need 100% of it off, or it will bubble like in your case. It can hold moisture, and solvent paint does not mix with water. Usually the rattle can paints are pretty cheap. I like using a 2 part primer that has a hardner. However, I understand if you don't have a spray gun and blah blah. Then your only option is rattle can. Great point what wyotech said, don't put it on too thick, too fast, in high heat because it can create solvent popping. Hope this helps!
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