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Thread: Drag Race suspension thread

  1. #51
    G-Man's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Adobedude View Post
    If you're doing everything the same, and your not spinning it's your reaction time. I launch when the 3rd bulb starts to glow or I red light. If I need to pick up my RT I roll into the beam a little. I'm a bottom bulb guy.
    If your watching the lights count down, you're done. You brain is saying "OK, second bulb is out, now I wait for the 3rd bulb"...
    It needs to say IT'S FUCKING ON.
    Agreed.
    Pick a different point to hit it, like 3 bulb on, then move the truck into the beams till you find the right spot.
    G-Man

  2. #52



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    Quote Originally Posted by G-Man View Post
    Agreed.
    Pick a different point to hit it, like 3 bulb on, then move the truck into the beams till you find the right spot.
    G-Man
    Lot's of tricks...Even a piece of tape on a visor to block out the top bulbs.

    End of the month we are having arm drop racing, we did it last year when the lights didn't work and it was a fucking blast...Everyone loved it.
    11.27 @ 118.23
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  3. #53


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    We do it about once a month at our local track but normally there isn't anything fast a bunch of ricers normally show up.


    Forged 408 12.10 @ 111mph under the knife again

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    Yep...
    It's probly not the suspension at all if you say you're hooking every time.

    The sportsman tree has a .5 second interval between lights. If you're leaving before the third yellow lights up, you have a 1/2 second to play with.
    Leave exactly when the 3rd yellow lights up.

    Ed Morris
    11.17 @ 120.91 mph
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    DRTC # 578

  5. #55

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    Quote Originally Posted by White Turbo View Post
    Yep...
    It's probly not the suspension at all if you say you're hooking every time.

    The sportsman tree has a .5 second interval between lights. If you're leaving before the third yellow lights up, you have a 1/2 second to play with.
    Leave exactly when the 3rd yellow lights up.
    When foot braking I would mat it after the second yellow to time the pedal hitting the floor as the third bulb lit. With the 2-step - I have to wait for the third yellow then just let go of the button…. although those aren't really stellar lights at .030s. If I want tighter I have to roll in slightly deeper. If I let the prestige bulb go out - I will red-light even waiting for the third on the sportsman tree. It does pretty good on the .400 pro tree though.
    Duner
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  6. #56


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    Quote Originally Posted by White Turbo View Post
    Yep...
    It's probly not the suspension at all if you say you're hooking every time.

    The sportsman tree has a .5 second interval between lights. If you're leaving before the third yellow lights up, you have a 1/2 second to play with.
    Leave exactly when the 3rd yellow lights up.
    I have played with that idea to and if i do that the reation time slowq from .2xx to .4xx. My thought process here is one of 2 things either the convertor is not flashing at the same rpm every time or the lack of weight transfer is making the suspension load differently every time. Thoughts?


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  7. #57



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    Quote Originally Posted by steelhorse5778 View Post
    I have played with that idea to and if i do that the reation time slowq from .2xx to .4xx. My thought process here is one of 2 things either the convertor is not flashing at the same rpm every time or the lack of weight transfer is making the suspension load differently every time. Thoughts?
    It's you.

    Me thinks you think it's easier than it really is, cutting consistent lights is the hardest thing to do in drag racing, especially foot braking.

    Seat time, seat time, seat time.
    11.27 @ 118.23
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    Quote Originally Posted by Adobedude View Post
    It's you.

    Me thinks you think it's easier than it really is, cutting consistent lights is the hardest thing to do in drag racing, especially foot braking.

    Seat time, seat time, seat time.
    No believe me i know it isn't easy it took me 2 years to start cutting consistant .02 lights in my ram and about 6 months to start cutting .05 lights in the Dak the way it was previously set up. This seems different otherwise I wouldn't even mention it.


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  9. #59

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    Quote Originally Posted by Adobedude View Post
    It's you.

    Me thinks you think it's easier than it really is, cutting consistent lights is the hardest thing to do in drag racing, especially foot braking.

    Seat time, seat time, seat time.
    My thought exactly Dave...

    The fact that he is consistently slowing on reaction time when leaving on the 3rd yellow confirms it.

    Mike,
    IMHO.....You have to re-think your approach to leaving the line.

    1. You can stage deeper (which may lead to more inconsistent RT's because it's hard to stage in the exact same spot)
    2. You can go to a smaller diameter front tire (Which will put you farther into the beam when staging consistently shallow). But this probly won't overcome a .4xx RT.

    3. This helped me a lot:
    Using the second hand of a clock, practice lifting your left foot at exactly the 3rd yellow interval. Count, one, two,(at 1/2 sec intervals) then lift your foot.
    IMPORTANT: Don't count three, then lift!
    This worked well for me cuz I always stage shallow.... I just barely light the second stage light, then STOP.
    Practice this in the staging lanes if you can.

    Ed Morris
    11.17 @ 120.91 mph
    Best 60': 1.54

    DRTC # 578

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    Quote Originally Posted by White Turbo View Post
    My thought exactly Dave...

    The fact that he is consistently slowing on reaction time when leaving on the 3rd yellow confirms it.

    Mike,
    IMHO.....You have to re-think your approach to leaving the line.

    1. You can stage deeper (which may lead to more inconsistent RT's because it's hard to stage in the exact same spot)
    2. You can go to a smaller diameter front tire (Which will put you farther into the beam when staging consistently shallow). But this probly won't overcome a .4xx RT.

    3. This helped me a lot:
    Using the second hand of a clock, practice lifting your left foot at exactly the 3rd yellow interval. Count, one, two,(at 1/2 sec intervals) then lift your foot.
    IMPORTANT: Don't count three, then lift!
    This worked well for me cuz I always stage shallow.... I just barely light the second stage light, then STOP.
    Practice this in the staging lanes if you can.
    Just last week I clicked off a .237, the guy I was racing runs a brake and hits .05 or better day in and day out, he cut .287. I won the round crossing the line on the brakes.

    Just saying it's not easy, and most of us aren't good enough to blame the truck for a shitty light. But my best and most consistent lights are just turning on the 2nd bulb, that's the only way I know I am staged the same time every time, if I'm slow I raise the RPM a tad...One reason I have a problem racing a open header Big Block banging off the rev limiter at 4800 rpm is I can't hear or feel my truck.

    And good advice...I pretend to launch in the staging lanes when I can see the tree.
    11.27 @ 118.23
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    Just putting rear end back together, Motive 4.56 gear with Eaton Trutrac QA1 adjustable Hipo Tek X brace front and rear drivshaft loops with Caltracs 28x10.5 slicks and relocated battery to rear passenger side.

  12. #62
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    I need to thank Slammed and Blacknight for the help on the caltracks. I went from spinning at idle to o crap hang on lol. The guy who started the race yesterday said my driverside front tire wasn't spinning when I wen't by . So I feels like it's dead hooking but I see in the mark's I hazing the slicks for 60ft and flexing the chassis a little. I ordered a panhard bar to help with the tracking on roads that aren't level and the top end has alot of side to side wiggle. My new issue is when I'm out driving around the slicks get heated up and when I find a race I'm at guess a pressure, best I can tell 13 psi is working for me on the street

  13. #63
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    You can always try an X brace from Richard @ Hipotek, most of us don’t run away bars yet alone “pan hard” bars” for drag racing

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    Quote Originally Posted by blackknight View Post
    You can always try an X brace from Richard @ Hipotek, most of us don’t run away bars yet alone “pan hard” bars” for drag racing
    It's just a little inconsistent I'm sure it's the road at this point right lane goes left, left lane goes right and the potholes it's like hang on lol. But on the top end between the the tire sidewall and the body moving it's a handful. You know like when all the weight hits the front tires and the back gets squirrely so far I've managed to keep it in my lane but trying to get this issues straight before I put the new engine set up in that might not be so forgiving lol just having fun

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    These things always have major bump steer, if you lower them it’s even worse

  16. #66
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    Michigan roads are nothing but bumps. I do have a 2in drop on it going to have to fix that. It handles the curves preaty good when the radial tires are on, it bias tires not so much lol

  17. #67
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wideopen View Post
    I need to thank Slammed and Blacknight for the help on the caltracks. I went from spinning at idle to o crap hang on lol. The guy who started the race yesterday said my driverside front tire wasn't spinning when I wen't by . So I feels like it's dead hooking but I see in the mark's I hazing the slicks for 60ft and flexing the chassis a little. I ordered a panhard bar to help with the tracking on roads that aren't level and the top end has alot of side to side wiggle. My new issue is when I'm out driving around the slicks get heated up and when I find a race I'm at guess a pressure, best I can tell 13 psi is working for me on the street
    Panhard bar with leaf springs? Do you mean ARB?
    Youre runnign bias on the rear and radial on the front?

  18. #68
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    Quote Originally Posted by niebs View Post
    Panhard bar with leaf springs? Do you mean ARB?
    Youre runnign bias on the rear and radial on the front?
    I mean to locate the axle from moving side to side and yes radials in front bias slicks in back I am running solid alum bushings on front spring mounts , it's just has a back end wiggle when I'm off the gas on the brake unless you just want to call it twerking the azz at the loser's lol either way she's wiggling at 110 nothing I can't handle just what's it going to do at 150 new engine is close to completion

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