+ Reply to Thread
Page 1 of 9 1 2 3 ... LastLast
Results 1 to 25 of 222

Thread: Just for Argument sake!! Stock 360 Performance Build

  1. #1


    Senior Member

    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Here & There
    Posts
    3,355

    Default Just for Argument sake!! Stock 360 Performance Build

    If you had a bucket full of stock parts and wanted to build a Hot Lil engine and HAD to stick with the factory Bore, Stroke, Heads and Intake what would you do?

    I throw the intake in there as well because I have seen the inside of some of the older Mustang 4.6L Cobra Intakes and they look quite similar BUT with some die-grinder and cutting wheel work have been made to actually be decent performers.

    Change anything else you like and modify those said pieces anyway you like!!

    Let's see some ideas!!
    Tha DakFink: 1999 Solar Yellow R/Three 468cui, W9-RP heads, Twin 76mm Turbos, Powerglide Trans. , Bob's Fab Shop 25.3 SFI Chassis for 10.5W racing .
    (Still in the Fab Shop)

    Hot rodder rule of thumb....every $1 invested in head flow is roughly worth $3 in the short block

  2. #2



    Senior Member

    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Corrales, New Mexico
    Posts
    17,966

    Default

    Raise compression with either pistons or deck the heads, or both.
    A little bowl work on the cracked heads.
    ARP Connecting rod bolts.
    Magic Cam
    Intake mods as stated. Ported TB
    Headers
    SCT

    Done.
    11.27 @ 118.23
    2017 NM Mopar Challenge Series Champion

  3. #3



    uwntsumrtII's Avatar
    WhiteTrash&LiLOrangeFuror

    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    The "D"
    Posts
    4,004

    Default

    I think the cam is the magic key.
    Fu·ror noun \ˈfyu̇r-ˌȯr, -ər\ : an angry or maniacal fit

  4. #4


    Senior Member

    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Here & There
    Posts
    3,355

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Adobedude View Post
    Raise compression with either pistons or deck the heads, or both.
    A little bowl work on the cracked heads.
    ARP Connecting rod bolts.
    Magic Cam
    Intake mods as stated. Ported TB
    Headers
    SCT

    Done.
    What would you do with to the heads?

    I need to ask because I've never actually messed with the stockers. But are they all destine to crack or was it just some? Can they be opened up enough to justify bigger valves!!

    Intake?? You know what mods to or can be done? Wasn't Hughe's selling Modded Keggers for some insane price at one time. You ever see the insied of one to see what they were doing?
    Tha DakFink: 1999 Solar Yellow R/Three 468cui, W9-RP heads, Twin 76mm Turbos, Powerglide Trans. , Bob's Fab Shop 25.3 SFI Chassis for 10.5W racing .
    (Still in the Fab Shop)

    Hot rodder rule of thumb....every $1 invested in head flow is roughly worth $3 in the short block

  5. #5


    Senior Member

    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Here & There
    Posts
    3,355

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by uwntsumrtII View Post
    I think the cam is the magic key.
    Very true!!!

    I think most of the parts can be worked over or replaced with Better quality equivalents that would perform well with the right cam.

    BUT it would have to be spot on and install correctly!! No room for oops!

    Supposedly the Factory Magnum design was actually better than any other factory head before it and we have seen what some previous factory parts can be capable of.

    Design might be one thing and Durability/Quality another in this case!!
    Tha DakFink: 1999 Solar Yellow R/Three 468cui, W9-RP heads, Twin 76mm Turbos, Powerglide Trans. , Bob's Fab Shop 25.3 SFI Chassis for 10.5W racing .
    (Still in the Fab Shop)

    Hot rodder rule of thumb....every $1 invested in head flow is roughly worth $3 in the short block

  6. #6

    Duner's Avatar
    Turbo Dakota Junky

    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Chandler, AZ
    Posts
    5,133

    Default

    While every set of factory heads appear to crack - very few of them ever leak. Porting and bowl work helps a ton.

    And with the cam - adjustable rockers are important as well.

    Also - play with the fuel sync to gain the most performance after you have that cam installed. It makes zero sense to put in a performance cam and then try and put the sync to stock and not optimize where the injectors deliver the fuel.

    Of course, you could leave all of that stock and add a remote turbo and make way more power per $$$ spent than any other mod.
    Duner
    4.7 Turbocharged CC in white - 12's
    5.9 Turbocharged RC in black - 10's

    1999 Dodge Dakota R/T RC Turbo: 10.51 @ 130.13 MPH

  7. #7


    Senior Member

    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Here & There
    Posts
    3,355

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Duner View Post
    While every set of factory heads appear to crack - very few of them ever leak. Porting and bowl work helps a ton.

    And with the cam - adjustable rockers are important as well.

    Also - play with the fuel sync to gain the most performance after you have that cam installed. It makes zero sense to put in a performance cam and then try and put the sync to stock and not optimize where the injectors deliver the fuel.

    Of course, you could leave all of that stock and add a remote turbo and make way more power per $$$ spent than any other mod.
    CHeck your PMs.

    I like the way you think!!!

    With SCT does the Fuel sync still need to be adjusted? I know about +4-degrees seemed to be the sweet spot back in the day!

    So are you saying the CRACKs seem to be surface cracks only?? Maybe they can be buffed out??
    Last edited by dakfink; 01-07-2013 at 04:41 PM.
    Tha DakFink: 1999 Solar Yellow R/Three 468cui, W9-RP heads, Twin 76mm Turbos, Powerglide Trans. , Bob's Fab Shop 25.3 SFI Chassis for 10.5W racing .
    (Still in the Fab Shop)

    Hot rodder rule of thumb....every $1 invested in head flow is roughly worth $3 in the short block

  8. #8

    Duner's Avatar
    Turbo Dakota Junky

    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Chandler, AZ
    Posts
    5,133

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by dakfink View Post
    CHeck your PMs.

    I like the way you think!!!

    With SCT does the Fuel sync still need to be adjusted? I know about +4-degrees seemed to be the sweet spot back in the day!

    So are you saying the CRACKs seem to be surface cracks only?? Maybe they can be buffed out??
    I think fuel sync is one of those places that you can gain performance that nobody ever plays with or looks at from that perspective.

    I don't think the cracks are really anything for people to worry about unless they are leaking.
    Duner
    4.7 Turbocharged CC in white - 12's
    5.9 Turbocharged RC in black - 10's

    1999 Dodge Dakota R/T RC Turbo: 10.51 @ 130.13 MPH

  9. #9
    skunkxracing's Avatar
    Senior Member

    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    North Dakota
    Posts
    922

    Default

    Is this a joke?

    Ok I'll bite, first what are those goals exactly?

    Is this a hypothetical maximum power number without regard for drivability in a heavy truck, or would it to into something lighter?

    Haha answering questions with questions, love it.
    99 R/T RC IB
    Megasquirt II
    53%
    The eternal realist, If you don't like what I have to say put me on your ignore list

  10. #10

    Duner's Avatar
    Turbo Dakota Junky

    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Chandler, AZ
    Posts
    5,133

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by skunkxracing View Post
    Is this a joke?

    Ok I'll bite, first what are those goals exactly?

    Is this a hypothetical maximum power number without regard for drivability in a heavy truck, or would it to into something lighter?

    Haha answering questions with questions, love it.
    I read the initial question as: How to make it go faster while still using the stock parts.
    Duner
    4.7 Turbocharged CC in white - 12's
    5.9 Turbocharged RC in black - 10's

    1999 Dodge Dakota R/T RC Turbo: 10.51 @ 130.13 MPH

  11. #11


    Senior Member

    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Here & There
    Posts
    3,355

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by skunkxracing View Post
    Is this a joke?

    Ok I'll bite, first what are those goals exactly?

    Is this a hypothetical maximum power number without regard for drivability in a heavy truck, or would it to into something lighter?

    Haha answering questions with questions, love it.
    Just hypothetical!!

    has to go back in a Dak.

    Use your imagination!!
    Tha DakFink: 1999 Solar Yellow R/Three 468cui, W9-RP heads, Twin 76mm Turbos, Powerglide Trans. , Bob's Fab Shop 25.3 SFI Chassis for 10.5W racing .
    (Still in the Fab Shop)

    Hot rodder rule of thumb....every $1 invested in head flow is roughly worth $3 in the short block

  12. #12
    skunkxracing's Avatar
    Senior Member

    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    North Dakota
    Posts
    922

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by dakfink View Post
    Just hypothetical!!

    has to go back in a Dak.

    Use your imagination!!
    Ok do you want to do stock pistons as well?
    Compression could be bumped with flat tops and the mentioned head shaving or block decking.

    As Duner said many times the cracked heads don't leak, but the cracked are far from cosmetic. They happen between the intake and exhaust seats due to induction hardening the exhaust seat but usually don't make it to water. That said, two things. One there is a large amount of flow potential to be gained from porting the stockers. Two porting at the valve bowls where the cracks are will further weaken them in that area and increase the chance of the crack migrating into water jacket.

    Even ported you will still need a LOT of cam to actually fill the cylinders to make the most power from the stock heads and intake, which can seriously suck in a heavy dak, but if willing could be made up for with a loose converter (and gears) if you don't mind bad street manners.
    99 R/T RC IB
    Megasquirt II
    53%
    The eternal realist, If you don't like what I have to say put me on your ignore list

  13. #13


    Senior Member

    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Here & There
    Posts
    3,355

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by skunkxracing View Post
    Ok do you want to do stock pistons as well?
    Compression could be bumped with flat tops and the mentioned head shaving or block decking.

    As Duner said many times the cracked heads don't leak, but the cracked are far from cosmetic. They happen between the intake and exhaust seats due to induction hardening the exhaust seat but usually don't make it to water. That said, two things. One there is a large amount of flow potential to be gained from porting the stockers. Two porting at the valve bowls where the cracks are will further weaken them in that area and increase the chance of the crack migrating into water jacket.

    Even ported you will still need a LOT of cam to actually fill the cylinders to make the most power from the stock heads and intake, which can seriously suck in a heavy dak, but if willing could be made up for with a loose converter (and gears) if you don't mind bad street manners.
    How much compression would you give it?

    Would you put bigger valves in the heads or just port what you got?

    How much cam you thinking?
    How Much Convertor?
    How much gear??

    Like I said: it's for argument sake!! Build it Theoretically how you would if you were to build it with in those confines I mentioned.

    So far sounds like a good start!
    Tha DakFink: 1999 Solar Yellow R/Three 468cui, W9-RP heads, Twin 76mm Turbos, Powerglide Trans. , Bob's Fab Shop 25.3 SFI Chassis for 10.5W racing .
    (Still in the Fab Shop)

    Hot rodder rule of thumb....every $1 invested in head flow is roughly worth $3 in the short block

  14. #14


    Danno's Avatar
    DRTC #149

    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Bellevue, WA
    Posts
    5,712

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by dakfink View Post
    If you had a bucket full of stock parts and wanted to build a Hot Lil engine and HAD to stick with the factory Bore, Stroke, Heads and Intake what would you do?

    I throw the intake in there as well because I have seen the inside of some of the older Mustang 4.6L Cobra Intakes and they look quite similar BUT with some die-grinder and cutting wheel work have been made to actually be decent performers.

    Change anything else you like and modify those said pieces anyway you like!!

    Let's see some ideas!!
    Will you decide what the hell direction you want to go with this thing and stick to it!!! hahahaha..

    FWIW, I have seen no significant gains in working with the stock heads. Porting them gains next to nothing, because the limitations of the material involved do not allow you to get enough volume out of the port to make a significant difference.

    You have heard that the Magnum heads are better than heads that have come before, but I would take a set of early "J" heads over Magnums any day of the week for power potential. I have seen/experienced this first hand FWIW on a roundyround 360 that I had quite a bit of time with.

    To get the most out of the stockish parts, here is whatchu gotta doo....

    First, mod the hell outta the stock intake. Cut the runners back 2-3" and bell the openings. If you have the money, you can epoxy the plenum area up to help direct flow a little better. DONT FORGET TO OPEN THE TB OPENINGS UP!!!. If you can, port up and around the bend as much as possible to get the volume up in the runner.

    Second, do what you can on the heads. Be careful, because as stated, if you take too much out in the bowl ( where it REALLY needs it! ) then you are just asking for the crack to move to water. Unshroud the intake as much as is reasonable as well. Polish the chambers to help keep detonation down.

    Shortblock, ARP bolts, and a torqueplate bore/hone. Stock crank and worked stock rods. Go as close to zero deck as you can manage. Quench height makes a HUGE difference in power on these. Run a .042 ish gasket ( 1008 Felpro ) Thinner if you want, but the 1008's are a known quantity. I have a set of old 360 steel shim gaskets that I was saving for a stockish build at some point

    Cam, this is going to be the key. A ton of lift wont do you shit. .544" would be the max that I would even consider, and might even keep it down in the .510" range just to be safe depending on claying/notches available in a flattop. Duration is going to be where you make the power. You have to open the valve quickly hold it as long as you can to get a good fill on the cyl, with just enough overlap to promote some VE gains at peak torque, say in the 3500 range. IMO, 230ish intake and 220ish exh on a 114. Installed at 110. Lots of time to get the mix in, no need for a ton of time to get it out, cyl pressure helps with that.

    Thats what I would do in my un-educated build

    Danno

    99 DA RC To Be Discovered AKA Smokey
    98 DA CC 11.59@118 AKA Barney

    [Duner] : I was afraid I was going to go too fast and scare myself. Lucky for me - the DA rose up to save me.

    [Kotta390] : Oh that's right! Well FML.....Looks like I am getting shafted because of my bore size

    [BlakDak71] : I don't run oil, I run a special blend consisting of Hellman's mayo and the tears of a pregnant mermaid

    [Kotta390] : My electric water pump puts out too much fuel at idle and is not a variable pump which makes it overheat in the summer at idle if I sit too long

    [KotaRT] : Ed, you can have cake, as long as I get something in return

  15. #15


    Senior Member

    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Here & There
    Posts
    3,355

    Default

    LOL!!!

    Hell no!! Direction is for Disciplined People!!!

    Honestly though; I have 2 complete motors torn apart across my garage. Was just contemplating putting 1 back together on the cheap BUT with some Massaging until I can afford to put the 1 I want together on the side.

    I hate having a JackStand Queen in my Garage!!
    Tha DakFink: 1999 Solar Yellow R/Three 468cui, W9-RP heads, Twin 76mm Turbos, Powerglide Trans. , Bob's Fab Shop 25.3 SFI Chassis for 10.5W racing .
    (Still in the Fab Shop)

    Hot rodder rule of thumb....every $1 invested in head flow is roughly worth $3 in the short block

  16. #16
    Senior Member

    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Central Kentucky
    Posts
    5,154

    Default

    I'd do, pretty close, to what I had back in 08-09 with a couple more major corrections thrown in.

    -The HS bolt on pedestal/adjustable rockers-
    -Rhodes lifters (or Danno lifters) ~.005 lash
    -."600" springs
    -Flat top pistons, 2 valve reliefs (go internal balanced while you're there)
    -Block decked and squared for .035-.040 quench with whatever head gasket you run. Should be doable to run premium with 10:1 running that tight of a quench and 7 series NGK's.
    -Quality file fit rings
    -Throat diameter opened to accomodate 2.02 Intake valves (.8-.9 of valve diameter). Milling work to achieve desire compression after cleaning up the chambers with a cart roll. 37/45/60/75* bowl cut, then blended, valve job.

    Nicely cut runner and ported/extrude honed stock barrel intake. 55-52mm TB, open air cleaner.

    Along with the typical headers and exterior mods.

    I think that's it. Stock bore right? Shit. May as well bore it with the decking being done...
    Last edited by Intense RT; 01-07-2013 at 08:04 PM.
    The Dakota RT is gone... but not forgotten.

    '15 Granite Crystal Metallic SRT 392.

  17. #17

    Default

    IMO im not sure but never asked can get have harden exhaust seats pressed in?


    head work: 5 angle valve job - light port and polish - some valve pocket work, .550 springs, shave the heads for extra compression since the 360 pistons have some valve relief

    cam: 210/220 .525 total lift 114

    intake manifold: shorten runners - inside plenum filler - matched head porting - cut out the center top at the tb sorta like the 4bbl-2bbl adapter

    ford 24lb injectors would offer fuel atomizing = better mpg

    port and polished TB

    new pushrods would be needed and choice if you want to stick with factory rockers or go with roller rockers.


    i say what i did with the cam n head setup with keeping in mind the factory valves are 2 piece and trying to keep down the amount of spring pressure needed to prevent the valves from breaking.
    Brad
    00 CC IB sport 360
    98 RC white sport mildly worked v6, used as a truck!

  18. #18


    Senior Member

    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Here & There
    Posts
    3,355

    Default

    Kool Guys!!

    This is what I'm talking about!!!

    Lots of ideas and each a lil bit uniquely different!!

    Keep the ideas coming!!
    Tha DakFink: 1999 Solar Yellow R/Three 468cui, W9-RP heads, Twin 76mm Turbos, Powerglide Trans. , Bob's Fab Shop 25.3 SFI Chassis for 10.5W racing .
    (Still in the Fab Shop)

    Hot rodder rule of thumb....every $1 invested in head flow is roughly worth $3 in the short block

  19. #19
    Senior Member

    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Central Kentucky
    Posts
    5,154

    Default

    Hmm, I think I already may have stepped too far with block work. How stock you want it? No block work, ball hone, and maybe some custom pistons?

    Need some rules man!
    The Dakota RT is gone... but not forgotten.

    '15 Granite Crystal Metallic SRT 392.

  20. #20



    RTchas's Avatar
    Senior Member

    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    PA
    Posts
    9,313
    Blog Entries
    2

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Duner View Post
    While every set of factory heads appear to crack - very few of them ever leak. Porting and bowl work helps a ton.

    And with the cam - adjustable rockers are important as well.

    Also - play with the fuel sync to gain the most performance after you have that cam installed. It makes zero sense to put in a performance cam and then try and put the sync to stock and not optimize where the injectors deliver the fuel.

    Of course, you could leave all of that stock and add a remote turbo and make way more power per $$$ spent than any other mod.
    /\ This


    00 FR RC Dakota R/T Turbo 11.56@118

    99 Amethyst RC Dakota R/T 1-170 13.84@98

    P.I.E. tuned cause Flynn is for the Birds if you wanna Run Fast have some PIE !

    Just call me George W

  21. #21
    Senior Member

    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Central Kentucky
    Posts
    5,154

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Lewd Crude and Tattooed View Post
    What cam Dan?
    I thought stock? Cam opens the door. I was thinking it's pretty challenging using the stock cam if we're talking a go to hell/try something engine, lol.

    Actually with the stock cam, I might try a 30* top cut on the valve job.
    The Dakota RT is gone... but not forgotten.

    '15 Granite Crystal Metallic SRT 392.

  22. #22
    skunkxracing's Avatar
    Senior Member

    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    North Dakota
    Posts
    922

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Danno View Post
    Will you decide what the hell direction you want to go with this thing and stick to it!!! hahahaha..

    FWIW, I have seen no significant gains in working with the stock heads. Porting them gains next to nothing, because the limitations of the material involved do not allow you to get enough volume out of the port to make a significant difference.


    Danno
    Why did ryanJ gain 45 CFM out of a stock 1.92 magnum then??

    And by the way magnum heads LIKE lift, if you look at every flow chart of a ported magnum head they continue to increase in flow from .550 and some to .600. Not sure were the don't lift the valve very far magnum head thing ever came from but its nonsense.

    And I say 236* intake on a 108 to make it peakier with the limited head flow. And be able to run higher compression on pump gas.
    99 R/T RC IB
    Megasquirt II
    53%
    The eternal realist, If you don't like what I have to say put me on your ignore list

  23. #23


    Senior Member

    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Here & There
    Posts
    3,355

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Intense RT View Post
    Hmm, I think I already may have stepped too far with block work. How stock you want it? No block work, ball hone, and maybe some custom pistons?

    Need some rules man!

    Well we all know the Stock Pistons are pretty much crap and decent forged pistons aren't too pricey SO!!!

    a .030 to .040 over would be ok since it would be smart to replace them anyways.

    RULES?? You want RULES!!?? I'll give you RULEZ!!

    Stock Block
    Stock heads
    Stock intake
    Stock crank
    Preferable stock conn. rods (but if you can come up with better rods that would cost marginally the same as bushing the factory ones to fit new pistons then show us what you're thinking)

    Anything else goes!!
    Tha DakFink: 1999 Solar Yellow R/Three 468cui, W9-RP heads, Twin 76mm Turbos, Powerglide Trans. , Bob's Fab Shop 25.3 SFI Chassis for 10.5W racing .
    (Still in the Fab Shop)

    Hot rodder rule of thumb....every $1 invested in head flow is roughly worth $3 in the short block

  24. #24


    Senior Member

    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Here & There
    Posts
    3,355

    Default

    PLEASE GUYS! As tempting as it may be, NO Arguing or disputing others theories and set-up ideas.

    Tell us how you'd do it if it were you and your Challenge,and your theories and thought processes of why, if you like.

    Just like Myself, Danno and Duner; We don't always agree or see eye to eye on how to get to the end product, BUT at the end we are usually at the same spot with our ideas.

    So far been a lot of good feed back and I have actually gotten a few messages that there are a LOT of people that are watching and reading this thread that aren't actually involved Just reading and learning and taking it all in.

    Hell I've learned a few things so far myself!!

    Keep the input coming!

    Just some food for thought!!! Dakotas were being raced in Stock Eliminator class well before R/T heads came around. In fact R/T heads were a product of that racing! That said they were running 12's on factory parts of the time. Just some food for thought!!

    Most of us know YOU would NOT want to run a Stock Elim. motor in a street application.
    Tha DakFink: 1999 Solar Yellow R/Three 468cui, W9-RP heads, Twin 76mm Turbos, Powerglide Trans. , Bob's Fab Shop 25.3 SFI Chassis for 10.5W racing .
    (Still in the Fab Shop)

    Hot rodder rule of thumb....every $1 invested in head flow is roughly worth $3 in the short block

  25. #25

    I like free kittens

    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Marysville O-H-I-O
    Posts
    7,077

    Default

    I'm not afraid of the stock heads. I have 2 pair here and the MP porting templates. I figure I might as well cut them up and have fun with it. one pair I've already degreased and used a scotchbrite pad to clean up to bare metal, and I can't see any cracks anywhere.

    worst case scenario, I make paperweights into paperweights since nobody wants stock heads, and I learn a thing or 2 about porting while I'm at it,

    best case, I turn paperweights into decent performers and can get 230 CFM or so out of them easily for minimal invested other than time, which is free anyway.



    for a max effort build using stock parts though, I'd give Bob Kammer a call. I know for a fact they've raced a few Dakota's and have a Gen 3 reg cab that will pull the wheels on launch. I've heard that they raced in a stock class that required stock block, crank, heads, etc. and that he knew how to massage the heads to get every last ounce of flow out of them.
    --Tom
    **Photobucket can suck my nut**

    I'm a douchebag

+ Reply to Thread
Page 1 of 9 1 2 3 ... LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may post new threads
  • You may post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •