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Thread: Aftermarket Headunit Install: Bypass Infinity Amp or Not?

  1. #1

    Exclamation Aftermarket Headunit Install: Bypass Infinity Amp or Not?

    So which is preferred? I'll be running to standard Pyle 6.5's powered by a Kenwood BT852HD Headunit.


    From my Metra Harness
    In order for the factory amplifier to turn on and off, connect the blue wire on the harness to the aftermarket radios amplifier turn on wire
    This guy ( http://www.dodgedakotas.com/boards/aud/1075.html ) states
    You can cut out the amp if you want and use the amp in the headunit if you wnat to. the amp is easy to find, take off the right Kick panel and there are 2 plugs. One coming from the headunit with 8 wires and one leaving with 12 wires, the 4 extra wires are Power and ground, 2 for each. If you jumper it or cut the amp out of the look, pull the fuse in the panal in the left side.

  2. #2


    Blown and Squirted

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    I left the factory amp and wish I didnt. I think the HU and speakers would sound a lot better than they do. I think the lame factory amp is to blame.

    '99 R/T- MSIIextra fuel/spark/idle, ZCP mx422 supercharged, ZCP Tbrake 727, PPC 10" 3800, 4.10, (\/) Headers, 2.5" Duals, Truetrac, Boyd Timeless 6's, Hotchkis TVS.
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    KicknAsphlt's Avatar
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    I'd say bypass -- the infinity amp is made for the shitty stock head unit, and is only worth about 13wRMS/channel.
    - Justin


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    those instructions for bypassing the amp aren't really clear. anyone have better english?

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    KicknAsphlt's Avatar
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    From what I remember, it's actually simple -- there is a harness made (expensive through Mopar, but I think a guy on here made them at one time) that jumpers the harness across the amp because it's in series (inline) with the harness. If you just unplug the amp, nothing will work stereo-wise. The hard (but much cheaper) way would to either build your own cable, or cut the connectors off and crimp/solder in an extension wire to each wire in that section of the harness.
    - Justin


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    Bypass FTW

    99 R/T under the knife
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    KicknAsphlt's Avatar
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    Nice - good info!
    - Justin


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  9. #9

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    I'll post back how I make out w/ them. If you goto one of the later pages theres an ebay link for a cheap price. 2 harnesses shipped was < $10.

    I was able to get the stereo running w/ the existing Amp in place. I don't know how to tell what amp is powering the speakers though (headunit or factory). I noticed on the back of the factory headunit there was a seperate plug labeled 'Amp'. I never hooked that up. In my mind that was the amp turn on lead to the Factory amp and since I didn't hook it up it's not in use, but that seems too easy.

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    Just finished installing this harness on my truck. Definitely an improvement over running the stock amp with my aftermarket speakers. The sound out of my aftermarket front speakers (Rocksford Fosgate components) is a lot more clear then when they were going through the amp. Took about an hour from making the harness to the end of the install.

    -Sam
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    blackknight's Avatar
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    I know this is an old thread , any pics of your harness , I want to do mine today

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    9t9-5.2's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by blackknight View Post
    I know this is an old thread , any pics of your harness , I want to do mine today
    You are replying to people that last posted 2-3 years ago.

    Did you see/follow this link; http://www.dakota-durango.com/forum/...ht=factory+amp

    "Excuse me if I have some place in my mind, where I go time to time"

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    blackknight's Avatar
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    I did , but I don't understand wth they meant , so I took a chance on an old post lol

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    wh23g3g's Avatar
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    I had the factory radio in mine with new cheap Scosche speakers and new DP tweeters which sounded horrible. I swapped the radio out with an old but new Raptor cd/radio that's not even made anymore and I wired into the factory amp just as the harness said. It sounds amazing. No crackling anymore and clear. I think a speaker cost more than I paid for the cd player.

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    Does the kick panel pull right off?

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