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Thread: In-tank fuel pump replacement?

  1. #26


    Blown and Squirted

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    The SRT-4 doesn't use a hose, so you have to make due. Obvisouly it would be best if the dakota kit wasn't discontinued, but that is not the case.

    EDIT: I am talking about a high flow (255lph walbro) pump, not stock replacement.

    '99 R/T- MSIIextra fuel/spark/idle, ZCP mx422 supercharged, ZCP Tbrake 727, PPC 10" 3800, 4.10, (\/) Headers, 2.5" Duals, Truetrac, Boyd Timeless 6's, Hotchkis TVS.
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  2. #27



    grapejuice1998's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BryanRT360 View Post
    You have to heat the end of the coiled hose to soften and form around the pump outlet.
    That makes sense!
    Alan Short
    D.R.T.C. #15


  3. #28


    OG DRTC

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    Quote Originally Posted by Five9Dak View Post
    The SRT-4 doesn't use a hose, so you have to make due. Obvisouly it would be best if the dakota kit wasn't discontinued, but that is not the case.

    EDIT: I am talking about a high flow (255lph walbro) pump, not stock replacement.
    I understand that, but would still thing it would be better to just replace the line rather than basically melting the factory one to work on a pump it wasn't meant to be used on. That, and using something that creates heat around parts that have been saoked in gasoline for a long time isn't the smartest idea.


  4. #29


    Blown and Squirted

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    I soaked the end of mine in hot water. I'm pretty sure I had to do this even on the walbro dakota kits. I've done this job on dodge stuff probably 8 times now, all with walbros. My particular installation has about 60k miles on the 255, no issues.

    If you find an source to by that hose independantly and let us know- great. Otherwise you have re-use the stocker with an upgrade. Said hose and barb are not the "wrong" size for eachother, the hose needs to be formed over the barb, just like stock high pressure EFI/emissions hardlines are usually attached to their couplers.

    You can cut a hard emissions/EFI line, heat the end and re-terminate the hose back over the fitting's barb. This is how I made my injector test bench work with a dodge regulator.
    Last edited by Five9Dak; 04-12-2012 at 07:49 PM.

    '99 R/T- MSIIextra fuel/spark/idle, ZCP mx422 supercharged, ZCP Tbrake 727, PPC 10" 3800, 4.10, (\/) Headers, 2.5" Duals, Truetrac, Boyd Timeless 6's, Hotchkis TVS.
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  5. #30



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    Quote Originally Posted by Duner View Post
    They did?

    Mine are a few years old by now... so I haven't tried to buy them lately.
    Looks like they discontinued the 12-922.

    The Dak-Dur write-up was about fitting a 12-914 instead. He doesn't even mention swapping any wires. Just plugging them in.

    http://www.dakota-durango.com/forum/...ad.php?t=52197

    The pics have expired though.
    Alan Short
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    Kingst3r's Avatar
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    Hey Alan, the pump in the thread I posted below is the pump I used. As for the connector, it came with its own and had two wires connected to it. Cut my old connector off and connected the wires to the new one. Not much modifying done to and it fits in the stock basket. I should be starting the truck in a few days so I will let you know if it works.

    Here is the thread.
    http://www.dakota-durango.com/forum/...ad.php?t=79159

    My R/T build (rebuild) thread

    http://www.dakota-durango.com/forum/...d.php?t=133167
    Quote Originally Posted by 70Cuda383 View Post
    It's an emissions thing. someone, somewhere said that the millions of gallons of gas that evaporate to the atmosphere every year was killing tree frogs on some south african isalnd or some shit, those endangered tree frogs can suck my left nut.

  7. #32
    99408kotar/t's Avatar
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    So they are a some what direct replacement that will up flow even through the factory line? Ill be ordering one soon.
    410, 10.3 comp pistons, P&P Eddies, 254 cam, 30lb injectors, sct tuner, 3800 viper stall, 4:56 yukon gears, hotchkis tvs, m1 4brrl, 58mm f&b tb, 1.7 rr, electric fan, jm longtube headers, B&M hammer shifter, Cope Racing Trans, Viper Brakes, SRT8 Seats, nx wet kit(100 shot)
    best time 11.32 @ 118 1.59 60' on spray(old motor). 11.76@115 n/a(new motor)
    DD 07 SRT8 Charger 12.55@112

  8. #33

    Kingst3r's Avatar
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    I connected all my factory stuff right to it. I will let you guys know how it works out.

    My R/T build (rebuild) thread

    http://www.dakota-durango.com/forum/...d.php?t=133167
    Quote Originally Posted by 70Cuda383 View Post
    It's an emissions thing. someone, somewhere said that the millions of gallons of gas that evaporate to the atmosphere every year was killing tree frogs on some south african isalnd or some shit, those endangered tree frogs can suck my left nut.

  9. #34


    Blown and Squirted

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    Quote Originally Posted by 99408kotar/t View Post
    So they are a some what direct replacement that will up flow even through the factory line? Ill be ordering one soon.
    The factory regulator is good for approximately 425whp. Beyond that you will need to go to a return style fuel system.

    '99 R/T- MSIIextra fuel/spark/idle, ZCP mx422 supercharged, ZCP Tbrake 727, PPC 10" 3800, 4.10, (\/) Headers, 2.5" Duals, Truetrac, Boyd Timeless 6's, Hotchkis TVS.
    Z Code Performance Website

  10. #35

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    Quote Originally Posted by Five9Dak View Post
    The factory regulator is good for approximately 425whp. Beyond that you will need to go to a return style fuel system.
    I wanna say I'm at 450whp with a smaller pulley than sees about 2 more psi.
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  11. #36


    Blown and Squirted

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    Hehe, some people push it. :-0

    Yeah it's somewhere in the 4-500whp range. The age of the regulator and quality of gas you run will have an effect as well, there is a screen in most regulators of that style, it does flow less over time as it gets clogged. Augmenting your fueling with water/methanol will extend the power the stock fuel system will "support" as well. The meth is a fuel, and you run a leaner target AFR with more timing. All of which makes the power numbers go up for the same fuel flow.
    Last edited by Five9Dak; 04-13-2012 at 01:10 PM.

    '99 R/T- MSIIextra fuel/spark/idle, ZCP mx422 supercharged, ZCP Tbrake 727, PPC 10" 3800, 4.10, (\/) Headers, 2.5" Duals, Truetrac, Boyd Timeless 6's, Hotchkis TVS.
    Z Code Performance Website

  12. #37

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    Quote Originally Posted by Five9Dak View Post
    Hehe, some people push it. :-0

    Yeah it's somewhere in the 4-500whp range. The age of the regulator and quality of gas you run will have an effect as well, there is a screen in most regulators of that style, it does flow less over time as it gets clogged. Augmenting your fueling with water/methanol will extend the power the stock fuel system will "support" as well. The meth is a fuel, and you run a leaner target AFR with more timing. All of which makes the power numbers go up for the same fuel flow.
    I forgot I run meth. good point.
    2002 AB CC R/T (R.I.P)
    11.52@116.61 w/1.67 60'.

    2002 AB QC 4.7 4x4


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  13. #38



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    Mine dyno'd 451 on the stock fuel system, even while pulling fuel off the rail for the nitrous.
    Alan Short
    D.R.T.C. #15


  14. #39


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    Mine was plug n play minus the big ugly filter. just used the one it came with, and I'm in a 00.

    http://treperformance.com/i-133179-d...1995-2006.html

    They also have a dakota listed..

    http://treperformance.com/i-1565044-...1996-2001.html
    - Josh

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  15. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by KTK00R/T View Post
    Mine was plug n play minus the big ugly filter. just used the one it came with, and I'm in a 00.

    http://treperformance.com/i-133179-d...1995-2006.html

    They also have a dakota listed..

    http://treperformance.com/i-1565044-...1996-2001.html
    Ill have to call them about the Dakota kit.
    410, 10.3 comp pistons, P&P Eddies, 254 cam, 30lb injectors, sct tuner, 3800 viper stall, 4:56 yukon gears, hotchkis tvs, m1 4brrl, 58mm f&b tb, 1.7 rr, electric fan, jm longtube headers, B&M hammer shifter, Cope Racing Trans, Viper Brakes, SRT8 Seats, nx wet kit(100 shot)
    best time 11.32 @ 118 1.59 60' on spray(old motor). 11.76@115 n/a(new motor)
    DD 07 SRT8 Charger 12.55@112

  16. #41



    grapejuice1998's Avatar
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    How do you over-volt a fuel pump to run at 13v?
    Alan Short
    D.R.T.C. #15


  17. #42

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    My guess is you change the supply wire to a dedicated battery voltage wire vs. a 'regulated' one. My Supra is setup from the factory to run @ 9V up to a certain rpm/engine load, then switches to 12V. A lot of guys rewire it so that it's on the 12V line full-time.
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  18. #43

    SB440R/T's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by grapejuice1998 View Post
    How do you over-volt a fuel pump to run at 13v?
    Didn't Duner do it to his? Or Danno make a run of those pumps?
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  19. #44


    OG DRTC

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    Is the power wire to the fuel pump a regulated voltage? Or does it get whatever the alternator is putting out?


  20. #45

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    Quote Originally Posted by Kingst3r View Post
    Hey Alan, the pump in the thread I posted below is the pump I used. As for the connector, it came with its own and had two wires connected to it. Cut my old connector off and connected the wires to the new one. Not much modifying done to and it fits in the stock basket. I should be starting the truck in a few days so I will let you know if it works.

    Here is the thread.
    http://www.dakota-durango.com/forum/...ad.php?t=79159
    Pump works fine as of now, started up right up. I'll see if it pulls enough fuel when I put it on the dyno; it should.

    My R/T build (rebuild) thread

    http://www.dakota-durango.com/forum/...d.php?t=133167
    Quote Originally Posted by 70Cuda383 View Post
    It's an emissions thing. someone, somewhere said that the millions of gallons of gas that evaporate to the atmosphere every year was killing tree frogs on some south african isalnd or some shit, those endangered tree frogs can suck my left nut.

  21. #46


    Blown and Squirted

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    The fuel pump gets system voltage minus any voltage drop from the long tiny OEM wires. Which can be a signifigant drop. You can run larger gauge wires from the batter or PDC (fused appropriately) to a heavy duty relay mounted near the tank and switched by the stock wiring to reduce this voltage drop.

    The fuel pump voltage is not regulated in any way on these trucks.

    You can also use a KB "boost a pump" Which is a higher voltage powersupply for your fuel pump.

    '99 R/T- MSIIextra fuel/spark/idle, ZCP mx422 supercharged, ZCP Tbrake 727, PPC 10" 3800, 4.10, (\/) Headers, 2.5" Duals, Truetrac, Boyd Timeless 6's, Hotchkis TVS.
    Z Code Performance Website

  22. #47



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    Did anyone see an increase in the pressure readings, after the pump upgrade? I know the system is regulated, but I could swear that I remember someone saying that their overall pressure readings went up a bit.
    Alan Short
    D.R.T.C. #15


  23. #48


    Blown and Squirted

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    That should only be the case if their original pump was unable to achieve the regulated pressure, or if the regulator is incapable of bypassing enough fuel to maintain the regulated pressure.

    '99 R/T- MSIIextra fuel/spark/idle, ZCP mx422 supercharged, ZCP Tbrake 727, PPC 10" 3800, 4.10, (\/) Headers, 2.5" Duals, Truetrac, Boyd Timeless 6's, Hotchkis TVS.
    Z Code Performance Website

  24. #49


    OG DRTC

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    I don't know if the previous owner upgraded the fuel pump or regulator in my truck before I bought it but when I put a pressure gauge on it trying to trouble shoot a stumble at 5500 rpms it showed about 53-55psi, not the 49psi our trucks are supposedly set at from the factory.


  25. #50


    Blown and Squirted

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    It is just a spring in the regulator that controls it, there is some tolerance. ~50psi is OK.

    '99 R/T- MSIIextra fuel/spark/idle, ZCP mx422 supercharged, ZCP Tbrake 727, PPC 10" 3800, 4.10, (\/) Headers, 2.5" Duals, Truetrac, Boyd Timeless 6's, Hotchkis TVS.
    Z Code Performance Website

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