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Thread: Trac-lok Differential Rebuild

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    Default Trac-lok Differential Rebuild

    I need to replace the clutch packs in my factory Trac-lok rear-end.

    Can the clutch packs be replaced without removing the differential from the housing? I've got a factory service manual, but they only show a re-build done on the bench...no mention of doing it by removing the cover plate.

    Any information and help appreciated.

    Thanks, Tom

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    BTLFED R/T's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by OntarioRT View Post
    I need to replace the clutch packs in my factory Trac-lok rear-end.

    Can the clutch packs be replaced without removing the differential from the housing? I've got a factory service manual, but they only show a re-build done on the bench...no mention of doing it by removing the cover plate.

    Any information and help appreciated.

    Thanks, Tom
    I don't know anything about your question, but I just wanted to welcome you to the site! Hope to see ya at the Nats and Woodward again!

    Jason
    Jason Francis


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    Thanks, Jason. Looking forward to the meet...its gonna be great!

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    OG DRTC

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    Skip the stock rebuild and upgrade. I have a Powertrax and love it. It replaces the stock clutch pack and spider gears and can be done in your driveway in a few hours. No need to remove the carrier.


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    Quote Originally Posted by OntarioRT View Post
    I need to replace the clutch packs in my factory Trac-lok rear-end.

    Can the clutch packs be replaced without removing the differential from the housing? I've got a factory service manual, but they only show a re-build done on the bench...no mention of doing it by removing the cover plate.

    Any information and help appreciated.

    Thanks, Tom

    TOMMMMMYYYYY!!!

    Yup, can be done in the truck no problem... gotta take out the axles a bit to do it though.

    1) remove wheels
    2) remove brake drums
    3) remove cover (catch that nasty stinky oil in a pan)
    4) rotate the axle untill you see the little bolt/pin that goes into the center of the spider gear and remove.
    5) push the axles in a bit and the C-clips should come out, dont loose em.
    The rest goes pretty much like it sais on the bench.

    Damon

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    Quote Originally Posted by hskr View Post
    Skip the stock rebuild and upgrade. I have a Powertrax and love it. It replaces the stock clutch pack and spider gears and can be done in your driveway in a few hours. No need to remove the carrier.
    I thought a factory rebuild would be cheaper and faster. I'll check out the
    Powertrax.

    Thanks, Tom

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    Damon, Thanks for clarifying the procedure for me. Will check out upgrading as Brian suggested.

    Tom

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    OG DRTC

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    Factory rebuild may be cheaper, but how long before it breaks again?? I've had my powertrax in two different trucks and probably close to 100K miles with zero problems and both wheels lock every time I hit the gas pedal. Takes a little getting used to, but nothing that will make you not want to drive it. My truck is my daily driver, and i actually prefer the way it feels now over driving a truck with the stock limited slip or even worse open diff.


  9. #9

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    I would say look into a different differential, and if you can swing the coin, go with taller gears while in there. I went whole hawg with the 4.56 and a detroit that I got from Damon. Love it. Stomping the gas is like shooting an arrow. It just jumps and goes straight.

  10. #10
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    Once again leave it up to me to bring back another old thread. My rear diff is acting like it needs rebuilt. I called the dodge dealer today and they told me I need to buy a whole carrier for $740. I have a hard believing that there is no rebuild kit for the diff. If there is a rebuild kit, can some one point me in the right direction to find it? The dodge dealer was less than helpful and told me there is no such thing that it is not serviceable. I call BS.

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    Factory rebuild lasted me 40k miles, about 15 autoXs and 5 drag strip visits. It cost 80 dollars in parts. Can't really complain.

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    Here's the post with the rebuild parts info
    http://www.dakotart.com/forum/showpo...60&postcount=1

    It's a Dana/Spicer rebuild kit part number 706352x. You can get them here:

    http://moesperformance.com/index.php...076b7c44f769c7

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    1BAD99RT
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    Right on guys! Thanks I appreciate it. Just ordered mine.

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    Randys Ring and Pinion has the same Dana Spicer kit for about $50. The install is not something that can be easily done with the carrier in the diff. I am replaced my clutch packs after 115K miles, when I put in 4.56 gears. Not difficult, but not easy either. It is not hard to remove the carrier and work on it on a bench.

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    Don't you need a special tool to remove the carrier? Looks like a pipe with a square drive on the end. Definitely unusual. They sell it as a special dodge tool over on PATC. About $125 I think.
    The Dakota RT is gone... but not forgotten.

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    There are side adjusters that set the backlash for the gears. Yes you need a tool, but the tool can be anything that fits the adjusters. Some people buy the $100+ tool, some use a torsion bar out of a junk vehicle, some use a couple of nuts threaded on the end of a rod/pipe. To remove the carrier you don't necessarily need the tool, although it is easier if you it. You can use a screwdriver, or drift to back off the side adjusters through the access hole enough to pull the carrier. When you do this, you will need the tool to reinstall and set the backlash.

    The reason I pulled the carrier was to install the gears, so I was pulling it anyway. To replace the clutch packs you have to compress them, and remove and install the spider gears/thrust washers. This was easier to do on a bench.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Fast_JR View Post
    There are side adjusters that set the backlash for the gears. Yes you need a tool, but the tool can be anything that fits the adjusters. Some people buy the $100+ tool, some use a torsion bar out of a junk vehicle, some use a couple of nuts threaded on the end of a rod/pipe. To remove the carrier you don't necessarily need the tool, although it is easier if you it. You can use a screwdriver, or drift to back off the side adjusters through the access hole enough to pull the carrier. When you do this, you will need the tool to reinstall and set the backlash.

    The reason I pulled the carrier was to install the gears, so I was pulling it anyway. To replace the clutch packs you have to compress them, and remove and install the spider gears/thrust washers. This was easier to do on a bench.
    Thanks. First I've heard an explanation of "why".

    So do these adjusters preclude the use of shims to set backlash I assume?
    The Dakota RT is gone... but not forgotten.

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    Quote Originally Posted by hskr View Post
    Factory rebuild may be cheaper, but how long before it breaks again?? I've had my powertrax in two different trucks and probably close to 100K miles with zero problems and both wheels lock every time I hit the gas pedal. Takes a little getting used to, but nothing that will make you not want to drive it. My truck is my daily driver, and i actually prefer the way it feels now over driving a truck with the stock limited slip or even worse open diff.
    Hey Brian, I thought you had to have an open diff. to put a power trax in. I had one in my '82 Chev and it was awesome, but the rear needed to be open not LSD. Is it different with the Dodge rear ends?
    Edelbrock Magnum heads, Harland-Sharp 1:6 RR, Jomar Performance Ultra-Lite Stud Girdle, SoutheastPerformance Sheet Metal Valve Covers, Custom Hyd Roller from Reed Cams, Mopar M-1 2 Brl Intake, Hughes Stage 1 TB, JBA SS Headers, Jacobs Electronics Pro Street Ignition System and Wires, MBRP 'Cuda Style Exhaust, Western Chassis 2" drop front and rear, Edelbrock IAS Shocks, Terry DeLong Pro-Glass Shaker Hood

  19. #19

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    2 versions available, one for open the other traclok

  20. #20

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    Quote Originally Posted by Fast_JR View Post
    There are side adjusters that set the backlash for the gears. Yes you need a tool, but the tool can be anything that fits the adjusters. Some people buy the $100+ tool, some use a torsion bar out of a junk vehicle, some use a couple of nuts threaded on the end of a rod/pipe. To remove the carrier you don't necessarily need the tool, although it is easier if you it. You can use a screwdriver, or drift to back off the side adjusters through the access hole enough to pull the carrier. When you do this, you will need the tool to reinstall and set the backlash.

    The reason I pulled the carrier was to install the gears, so I was pulling it anyway. To replace the clutch packs you have to compress them, and remove and install the spider gears/thrust washers. This was easier to do on a bench.
    100+ for the tool is a lot. I just bought the tool from miller spx for 50 bucks. once it comes in I am pulling the rear end appart to determine what is bad in mine. 90k on it and 3rd rear ends in it so far.
    Rob Dunn
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  21. #21
    Engineer, Day and Night

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    I have 113K hard miles on mine and no problems with the stock diff. Still smoked both rear tires all day long. I opened it up to change gears and the spring washers were both snapped in many places.

    I didn't spend a dime on the tool I made at work, so I lucked out.

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