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Thread: viper trans in dakota? :)

  1. #26

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    Do a TKO. I cant wait to transplant mine, so many good stories.

  2. #27

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    Go TKO like the two above have mentioned. A warning if you go with a v1p0r T56, parts are expensive! You have to pay to play, so it's nothing new.

  3. #28

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    How available are the TKO?

  4. #29

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    $1800 gets you a brand new one to your doorstep in about a day from Jegs, Summit, etc.

    I'm a huge fan of the TKO, I loved mine behind the big block. the .64 OD 5th gear is much higher than any dodge trans, and allowed me to run a 4.56 gear in the axle, and still only turn 2400 rpm on the highway.

    honestly, in my opinion, a 6 speed gearbox is just for the wow factor. unless you're going to be doing a lot of road racing in a vehicle with enough power and top end speed to need the .82? 5th gear and .64 6th gear, that extra gear is just a waste. the gears in the TKO are spaced nicely, and you can hit triple digit speeds in 4th gear with the 1:1 ratio, then 5th gear for cruising.

    Of course, as soon as I sell you my quicktime bell, someone will make an economic flywheel instead of having to do a custom one, and then I'll break my NV3500 and wish I kept the quicktime!
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    Sorry, they've gone up a few hundred since I bought mine. now they're up to $2100

    http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/store...rchTerm=TKO600
    --Tom
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  6. #31

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    But, still a grand cheaper than a good T-56

    http://www.jegs.com/i/Hurst+Drivelin...T8272/10002/-1
    --Tom
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  7. #32


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    Quote Originally Posted by 70Cuda383 View Post
    $1800 gets you a brand new one to your doorstep in about a day from Jegs, Summit, etc.

    I'm a huge fan of the TKO, I loved mine behind the big block. the .64 OD 5th gear is much higher than any dodge trans, and allowed me to run a 4.56 gear in the axle, and still only turn 2400 rpm on the highway.

    honestly, in my opinion, a 6 speed gearbox is just for the wow factor. unless you're going to be doing a lot of road racing in a vehicle with enough power and top end speed to need the .82? 5th gear and .64 6th gear, that extra gear is just a waste. the gears in the TKO are spaced nicely, and you can hit triple digit speeds in 4th gear with the 1:1 ratio, then 5th gear for cruising.

    Of course, as soon as I sell you my quicktime bell, someone will make an economic flywheel instead of having to do a custom one, and then I'll break my NV3500 and wish I kept the quicktime!
    Cool, so you ran a .64 TKO and 4.56s? Did that rear end gear make 1st gear useless? How about 2nd?
    Andrew
    1999 IB RC R/T
    TKO600

  8. #33
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    Just realize first gear in a TKO600 is 2.87 and a 46RE is 2.45 IIRC. That and the shock of a clutch will smoke hides like nobody's business. I can't imagine what a big block would do.
    03 CC 4.7 NV3500

  9. #34

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    on street tires, first gear and second gear were useless on the street...depending on what you call "useless" I'm not into the street racing crowd, so I just play around and have fun on my own. From a 25-ish mph roll, in 2nd gear, stab the throttle and both rears light up and it gets sideways. useless? I think not! that's what I call FUN!

    going around a corner? stab it, get sideways, drift a bit, and go!


    on the track, with street tires, only 1st gear was "useless" 2nd gear stuck when the track was prepped well. still no "jump" off the line because A) I didn't want to shock the rear end too much and break parts, and B) WOT in 1st gear was a smoke show forcing me to roll into the throttle, resulting in piss poor 2.x 60' times and mid 13 sec 1/4 miles at 105 mph.

    I'm sure with slicks, the right shocks/caltracs, and confidence in the rear end, I could have launched at 3000-4000 rpm and get it to hook. Hell, with 535 lbs of torque and those gears, I almost wonder if it would have pulled the wheels? (probably not! especially a longer wheel base club cab)


    but otherwise, the 4.56s and the TKO were awesome, and if I went with an aftermarket transmission again, that's what I'd pick.

    if you want less gear in 1st, you could go with say, 3.92s or 4.10s, and then run the .82 OD 5th gear version and keep the same cruise RPMs as 4.56s and .64OD or, keep the .64OD and just run the 3.92s/4.10s for a lower highway RPM. without breaking out the gear ratio calculator...I'd guess you'd be able to cruise 75mph at around 2100 rpm with 3.92s my original axle had 3.21s and before I put the 4.56s in, I was turning 1800 rpm at 75mph. with the cam I had, the motor was surging and bucking at that low of an RPM, and really wanted more gear, more RPM under cruise. 4.56s brought me up to 2500 rpm and it was smooth as glass cursing down the highway at 75mph
    Last edited by Filthy Filbert; 07-19-2011 at 04:41 PM.
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    I think the Viper trans 1st gears are 2.66, which is also "lower" than a stock trans, so even with the T-56, you'd need good tires to hook 1st with ANY engine combo.
    --Tom
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  11. #36
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    You must have taller tires. Mine does 2500rpm in 5th @ 75mph with 4.10's and 27" tires.
    03 CC 4.7 NV3500

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    Yup, I run 275/55/17s. I think they are 29" tall

    When deciding what rear gear to go with, decide what size tire you'll run, and which OD gear you pick, to get your cruise RPM where you want it.

    I always prefer a higher OD and run a more aggressive rear gear so I pull harder in each gear, then you can fine tune your cruise RPM with tire size
    --Tom
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  13. #38


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    Originally I had 4.56's with my T-56 and I took them out and went back to 3.92's. 1st was worthless and 2nd wasn't much better. Now it is exactly the way I like it. 1st can be worthless if I want it to be, not all the time.

  14. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by 6speedrt View Post
    Originally I had 4.56's with my T-56 and I took them out and went back to 3.92's. 1st was worthless and 2nd wasn't much better. Now it is exactly the way I like it. 1st can be worthless if I want it to be, not all the time.
    IAWTP

    4.56 were just stupid. I ended up with 3.90s and its much better.


    Quote Originally Posted by BluRT00 View Post
    Part your red sport out and buy a gen 2. Problem solved.

  15. #40

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    Quote Originally Posted by 70Cuda383 View Post
    Starting with an R/T is going to be a LOT more work. You need to cut the hole for the master cylinder, swap in a pedal assembly, new driveshaft, cut a hole in the floor, swap out your steering column, dash cluster will need mods to delete the gear shift indicator, and maybe some other small things.
    The hole for the master is already there and the steering column does not need to be changed. Unless you're just talking about the column shifter, it's only held in by a pin. Instrument cluster doesn't need to be changed, you'll just have a PRND12 for no reason.

    Anyway, TKO FTW.
    Pete
    '00 RC TKO | '14 Ram 1500 Laramie

  16. #41

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    Hey rtdak can you pm me a picture of your crossmember and mount for the tko when it is installed?
    Last edited by jmaack727; 07-19-2011 at 10:33 PM.

  17. #42

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    Quote Originally Posted by jmaack727 View Post
    Hey rtdak can you pm me a picture of your crossmember and mount for the tko when it is installed?
    I'll have to jack it up or get it on the lift and snap a picture for you. What do you need to know?
    Pete
    '00 RC TKO | '14 Ram 1500 Laramie

  18. #43

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    If yours came with that gold colored adapter to bolt to the stock xmember, and also of you had to relocate the factory crossmember.

  19. #44




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    Hmmm Keisler..........= 6000.00 by the time it was over!!! Yep great bolt in.... BS
    Sales Manager at Majestic Motorsports

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  20. #45

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    Quote Originally Posted by jmaack727 View Post
    If yours came with that gold colored adapter to bolt to the stock xmember, and also of you had to relocate the factory crossmember.
    Yes it came with the adapter and no you don't have to slot the crossmember mounting holes like they say you do. I slotted mine but when I was installing it I had a buddy holding it and instead of letting it drop down in the slots he held it on the old marks while I tightened it. It's not an issue so I didn't loosen it back up and drop it down.
    Pete
    '00 RC TKO | '14 Ram 1500 Laramie

  21. #46

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    here's some pics of the cross member mods done to Patrick's truck, and a pic of the custom mount that's made out of rubber biscuit and steel tube. cross member bolts into the stock location.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    --Tom
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  22. #47

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    Quote Originally Posted by 70Cuda383 View Post
    here's some pics of the cross member mods done to Patrick's truck, and a pic of the custom mount that's made out of rubber biscuit and steel tube. cross member bolts into the stock location.
    Thanks for the pics. The kit I bought was originally going to be used in a 2nd gen but the mount I have (which I dont like) fits the crossmember. I was wondering if the actual 3rd gen kit uses it.

    Last edited by jmaack727; 07-20-2011 at 03:54 PM.

  23. #48
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    My kit has a plate that looks similar to that.
    03 CC 4.7 NV3500

  24. #49

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    I've noticed there's a few different bellhousings for the t-56 to small block mopar...what would be the difference?

  25. #50

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    Quote Originally Posted by jmaack727 View Post
    Thanks for the pics. The kit I bought was originally going to be used in a 2nd gen but the mount I have (which I dont like) fits the crossmember. I was wondering if the actual 3rd gen kit uses it.

    Yes that's the same mount I have. I'm not really a fan of it either, i'm getting a tubular crossmember made over the winter.
    Pete
    '00 RC TKO | '14 Ram 1500 Laramie

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