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Thread: 727 Swap...List of what you need

  1. #26

    SB440R/T's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sick 660r View Post
    quoting for future proof
    True, haha. Plus, we want to have kids soon, so I have to be happy with a 9 second Dakota.
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  2. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by ADakotaRTGuy View Post
    so I have to be happy with a 9 second Dakota.
    Oh the sacrifices we must make

    -Dave-
    '01 QC 4x4 33s
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  3. #28
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    This is something I want to do as well. I am about 30 minutes from copes shop. He built my 46re and wants to build me a 727 but I don't know about the whole manual valve body. At the end of the strip I'm tapped out and I liked shifting it into neutral and you can't do that with the reverse manual. Not a big deal but ehhh...
    410, 10.3 comp pistons, P&P Eddies, 254 cam, 30lb injectors, sct tuner, 3800 viper stall, 4:56 yukon gears, hotchkis tvs, m1 4brrl, 58mm f&b tb, 1.7 rr, electric fan, jm longtube headers, B&M hammer shifter, Cope Racing Trans, Viper Brakes, SRT8 Seats, nx wet kit(100 shot)
    best time 11.32 @ 118 1.59 60' on spray(old motor). 11.76@115 n/a(new motor)
    DD 07 SRT8 Charger 12.55@112

  4. #29

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    Quote Originally Posted by GrimRT View Post
    You can shim the rear of the transmission, adjust the pinion angle, or make a mount with better fitment.

    Since you have a club cab, the driveshaft will be your biggest issue. It will be getting up there in length so the balancing will have to be spot on.
    you can also forget about getting a steel drive shaft i measured mine at 76 inches and inland truck parts said they coudnt get a shaft that long i would have to go aluminum. i shit my pants when he said $600 but he said they went to balance it and it spun out perfect they didnt put a single weight on. im not sure about carbon fiber how long you can make those? the flexplate i just used a drill bit and oblonged the one whole that was off set and the crank sensor i took a good sized peice of cardboard and a couple bolts and stuck the two bolts on both sides of hole and marked where it was located and width and then transfered it to the 727 using a drill to start the hole where the sensor rounds on the back then used an electric cutting tool and a file.
    AJ Sevey 408ci

  5. #30
    Sick 660r's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 2001 Mopar R/T View Post
    you can also forget about getting a steel drive shaft i measured mine at 76 inches and inland truck parts said they coudnt get a shaft that long i would have to go aluminum. i shit my pants when he said $600 but he said they went to balance it and it spun out perfect they didnt put a single weight on. im not sure about carbon fiber how long you can make those? the flexplate i just used a drill bit and oblonged the one whole that was off set and the crank sensor i took a good sized peice of cardboard and a couple bolts and stuck the two bolts on both sides of hole and marked where it was located and width and then transfered it to the 727 using a drill to start the hole where the sensor rounds on the back then used an electric cutting tool and a file.
    600 isnt that bad. They will go longer with CF.


    Quote Originally Posted by BluRT00 View Post
    Part your red sport out and buy a gen 2. Problem solved.

  6. #31



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    Quote Originally Posted by 99408kotar/t View Post
    This is something I want to do as well. I am about 30 minutes from copes shop. He built my 46re and wants to build me a 727 but I don't know about the whole manual valve body. At the end of the strip I'm tapped out and I liked shifting it into neutral and you can't do that with the reverse manual. Not a big deal but ehhh...
    You don't have to do a reverse manual VB, and a reverse manual valve body with a clean neutral will solve that problem...I just like pulling to shift, but I hate the fact I can't get it into neutral from 3rd.
    11.27 @ 118.23
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  7. #32

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    Quote Originally Posted by Adobedude View Post
    You don't have to do a reverse manual VB, and a reverse manual valve body with a clean neutral will solve that problem...I just like pulling to shift, but I hate the fact I can't get it into neutral from 3rd.

    X2. I dont think i could shift "foreward".

    99 IB CC 6.7 727 Black 20" R/T's Accel DFI standalone
    99 DA CC sold!
    1pc port plates FOR SALE, pm for details

  8. #33

    SB440R/T's Avatar
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    For all you ball busters out there. With a 3.21 gear at 75mph I will be at 2900 RPM, haha. That is tits for the 727. 4.56's would be at 4100 RPM.

    On another note, are Motive gears any good? 185 on ebay. Starting a new thread for it.

    http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/CHRYS...item3f03560527
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  9. #34
    99408kotar/t's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Adobedude View Post
    You don't have to do a reverse manual VB, and a reverse manual valve body with a clean neutral will solve that problem...I just like pulling to shift, but I hate the fact I can't get it into neutral from 3rd.
    yea I know of the clean neutral but if I remember I talked to john about it and he didn't recommend it or something. Can't remember its been awhile since that conversation.
    410, 10.3 comp pistons, P&P Eddies, 254 cam, 30lb injectors, sct tuner, 3800 viper stall, 4:56 yukon gears, hotchkis tvs, m1 4brrl, 58mm f&b tb, 1.7 rr, electric fan, jm longtube headers, B&M hammer shifter, Cope Racing Trans, Viper Brakes, SRT8 Seats, nx wet kit(100 shot)
    best time 11.32 @ 118 1.59 60' on spray(old motor). 11.76@115 n/a(new motor)
    DD 07 SRT8 Charger 12.55@112

  10. #35



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    Quote Originally Posted by 99408kotar/t View Post
    yea I know of the clean neutral but if I remember I talked to john about it and he didn't recommend it or something. Can't remember its been awhile since that conversation.
    After I posted that, I remember reading something about that too.
    11.27 @ 118.23
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  11. #36
    Sick 660r's Avatar
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    I dont know what is done to my 727 but after im done the 1/4 I can quickly shift into 1st (at 110mph) and it acts like neutral. Once I reach first gear speed I just give it gas and everything is back to normal. When I let off in first it feels like it goes into neutral and rpms drop to idle.


    Quote Originally Posted by BluRT00 View Post
    Part your red sport out and buy a gen 2. Problem solved.

  12. #37


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    Quote Originally Posted by ADakotaRTGuy View Post
    For all you ball busters out there. With a 3.21 gear at 75mph I will be at 2900 RPM, haha. That is tits for the 727. 4.56's would be at 4100 RPM.

    On another note, are Motive gears any good? 185 on ebay. Starting a new thread for it.

    http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/CHRYS...item3f03560527
    The last few superior gear sets my dad installed went in one shot and had nice patterns, the are purportedly very strong. I got a set of 4.10s from there going in soon, I'll let you know how I like them.

    EDIT: Fuck superior gears. Ended up with motives, tiny bit of noise at 45-55 but not terrible.
    Last edited by Five9Dak; 11-14-2011 at 11:32 AM.

    '99 R/T- MSIIextra fuel/spark/idle, ZCP mx422 supercharged, ZCP Tbrake 727, PPC 10" 3800, 4.10, (\/) Headers, 2.5" Duals, Truetrac, Boyd Timeless 6's, Hotchkis TVS.
    Z Code Performance Website

  13. #38


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    Quote Originally Posted by Sick 660r View Post
    I dont know what is done to my 727 but after im done the 1/4 I can quickly shift into 1st (at 110mph) and it acts like neutral. Once I reach first gear speed I just give it gas and everything is back to normal. When I let off in first it feels like it goes into neutral and rpms drop to idle.


    This is generally described as a "no engine braking in first" VB.

    '99 R/T- MSIIextra fuel/spark/idle, ZCP mx422 supercharged, ZCP Tbrake 727, PPC 10" 3800, 4.10, (\/) Headers, 2.5" Duals, Truetrac, Boyd Timeless 6's, Hotchkis TVS.
    Z Code Performance Website

  14. #39
    Sick 660r's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Five9Dak View Post
    This is generally described as a "no engine braking in first" VB.
    well everyone should stop complaining about not being able to go to neutral and just get whatever I have. It feels like the same thing.


    Quote Originally Posted by BluRT00 View Post
    Part your red sport out and buy a gen 2. Problem solved.

  15. #40

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    my cheetah valve body is like that. reverse manual.

    99 IB CC 6.7 727 Black 20" R/T's Accel DFI standalone
    99 DA CC sold!
    1pc port plates FOR SALE, pm for details

  16. #41
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    Mine go into neutral at any speed in any gear.
    03 CC 4.7 NV3500

  17. #42

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    I just put a 727 in mine and had a local shop custom make the converter with the correct spline input and bolting up to our flexplate. The converter is a 518 non lockup core with the input spline to match. The notch in the bell housing was easy to machine but wondered about using the MSD crank trigger instead. I am in the process of modifying the mount and then will have the driveshaft made. The rear end is a Mopar 8 3/4 out of a E body which is 3" narrower than the stock 9.25". I stayed with the automatic valve body but have a forward manual if I change my mind.

    Mike,

  18. #43


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    Quote Originally Posted by ADakotaRTGuy View Post
    This is true. Thought about doing E85, that would be nice. Build me a good megasquirt setup, haha.
    When I finish my AEM harness it would not be difficult to duplicate.

    '99 R/T- MSIIextra fuel/spark/idle, ZCP mx422 supercharged, ZCP Tbrake 727, PPC 10" 3800, 4.10, (\/) Headers, 2.5" Duals, Truetrac, Boyd Timeless 6's, Hotchkis TVS.
    Z Code Performance Website

  19. #44

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    Quote Originally Posted by Five9Dak View Post
    When I finish my AEM harness it would not be difficult to duplicate.
    What exactly are you doing?
    2003 Dakota R/T
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    *Disclaimer - All suggestions given for performance modifications is assuming that you live close or at Sea Level

  20. #45
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    He's like Justin. He's got a lot of garbage in his sig, raced the truck with the blower and it went slower, and hasn't done anything since. lol...
    03 CC 4.7 NV3500

  21. #46

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    Rut ro gonna have a SB TF727 as of tomorrow. Its in a deal with cash for my roadrunner. Damn this sucks.

  22. #47
    99408kotar/t's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Electrical Tech View Post
    I just put a 727 in mine and had a local shop custom make the converter with the correct spline input and bolting up to our flexplate. The converter is a 518 non lockup core with the input spline to match. The notch in the bell housing was easy to machine but wondered about using the MSD crank trigger instead. I am in the process of modifying the mount and then will have the driveshaft made. The rear end is a Mopar 8 3/4 out of a E body which is 3" narrower than the stock 9.25". I stayed with the automatic valve body but have a forward manual if I change my mind.

    Mike,
    interesting. what are you using for a kick down linkage?
    410, 10.3 comp pistons, P&P Eddies, 254 cam, 30lb injectors, sct tuner, 3800 viper stall, 4:56 yukon gears, hotchkis tvs, m1 4brrl, 58mm f&b tb, 1.7 rr, electric fan, jm longtube headers, B&M hammer shifter, Cope Racing Trans, Viper Brakes, SRT8 Seats, nx wet kit(100 shot)
    best time 11.32 @ 118 1.59 60' on spray(old motor). 11.76@115 n/a(new motor)
    DD 07 SRT8 Charger 12.55@112

  23. #48

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    I used a kick down bracket and linkage from a Dodge Van with a 46RE. I will see if it works, if not then the manual valve body will go in.

    Mike,

  24. #49

    SB440R/T's Avatar
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    Hey man, you ever knock out any of those mounts?

    Also, how did you get your reverse lights and neutral safety to work? Just the switches that come with the shifter?
    Last edited by SB440R/T; 04-12-2011 at 04:38 AM.
    2003 Dakota R/T
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    *Disclaimer - All suggestions given for performance modifications is assuming that you live close or at Sea Level

  25. #50

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    Been busy this winter and have not had time to complete the mount, a few companies claim the have one that works. Schumacher has some interesting swap kits for 87-96 but that tranny mount looks like it would work for a 98 Dakota and a 727. My 727 should have the reverse lights working but I may need a shifter for the nuetral safety. I was looking at the hurst shifter because it had both reverse lights and the nuetral safety. Hopefully I can get back into my project when I get back from my honeymoon and crawl back into the cave.

    Mike,

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