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Thread: 727 Swap...List of what you need

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    SB440R/T's Avatar
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    Default 727 Swap...List of what you need

    Add all the information here please

    727 - small block, are there any other differences?
    Converter - are they all the same as far as teeth?
    New custom trans mount
    New custom Driveshaft
    Flash the trans out, does it matter other than the light?

    Anything else?

    After we get all the RIGHT info, maybe we can make this a sticky.
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    Anyone? Dave?
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    Blown and Squirted

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    I think most custom converter shops who do mopar stuff can you get your stock flywheel/converter bolt pattern to match up with the 727 input.

    '99 R/T- MSIIextra fuel/spark/idle, ZCP mx422 supercharged, ZCP Tbrake 727, PPC 10" 3800, 4.10, (\/) Headers, 2.5" Duals, Truetrac, Boyd Timeless 6's, Hotchkis TVS.
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    Quote Originally Posted by ADakotaRTGuy View Post
    Add all the information here please

    727 - small block, are there any other differences?
    Converter - are they all the same as far as teeth?
    New custom trans mount
    New custom Driveshaft
    Flash the trans out, does it matter other than the light?

    Anything else?

    After we get all the RIGHT info, maybe we can make this a sticky.
    - 727 will bolt right up.
    - PCM won't see it, so you'll have to get it flashed out, SCT can do it but the dashboard indicator will be a light show till you cover it up.
    - You will have to notch the bell housing for the crank sensor. John Cope did it fo me.
    - 46RE converter won't work, it'll have to be a 727 converter.
    - Custom transmount...It needs to be about two inches longer, (tranny is shorter) I can get a pic of a modded one and stock one.
    - Driveshaft will have to be longer/custom.
    - Flex plate...I had to open up the holes a little on my flex plate for the bolts to fit.
    - I think the tailshaft of the 727 is thinner than a 46RE, I swear my engine is angled down towards the back more than it was. If your engine is still in the truck, jack the front or back of the truck up till the bedrails are dead nuts level, put an angle gauge on your crank pulley and record the angle...After the swap, level out the truck and check the angle and adjust it if needed with shims between trans mount and tailshaft.
    - Check Pinion Angle after the swap.
    - Enjoy...
    11.27 @ 118.23
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    Are there different models of small block 727?

    I got the guys from moparts advise on a builder and they quoted me 1095 for a 727, manual valve body(normal throw), rollerized rear sprag, 5 clutches or some shit like that. Took all the specs. Only stumper for him was notching the bellhousing for the crank sensor.
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    Quote Originally Posted by ADakotaRTGuy View Post
    Are there different models of small block 727?

    I got the guys from moparts advise on a builder and they quoted me 1095 for a 727, manual valve body(normal throw), rollerized rear sprag, 5 clutches or some shit like that. Took all the specs. Only stumper for him was notching the bellhousing for the crank sensor.
    I think all small block 727 cases are the same, if I remember right there are some different tailshaft/ouput shafts, Long,short,4x4 etc.
    go for any lightened parts, like drums, expensive but faster.

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    Quote Originally Posted by ADakotaRTGuy View Post
    Are there different models of small block 727?

    I got the guys from moparts advise on a builder and they quoted me 1095 for a 727, manual valve body(normal throw), rollerized rear sprag, 5 clutches or some shit like that. Took all the specs. Only stumper for him was notching the bellhousing for the crank sensor.
    Get a billet steel drum and a low band apply valve body for safety reasons...727s will come apart on rare occasions if something breaks while doing a burn out in 1st...start your burnouts in 2nd only, shift to 3rd ASAP.

    Here's a little info on 727s http://www.moparts.org/Tech/Archive/auto.html
    11.27 @ 118.23
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    Quote Originally Posted by Adobedude View Post
    Get a billet steel drum and a low band apply valve body for safety reasons...727s will come apart on rare occasions if something breaks while doing a burn out in 1st...start your burnouts in 2nd only, shift to 3rd ASAP.

    Here's a little info on 727s http://www.moparts.org/Tech/Archive/auto.html
    Yea, he did say we are doing the low band apply valve body. I will as about the billet steel drum.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Adobedude View Post
    - 727 will bolt right up.
    - PCM won't see it, so you'll have to get it flashed out, SCT can do it but the dashboard indicator will be a light show till you cover it up.
    - You will have to notch the bell housing for the crank sensor. John Cope did it fo me.
    - 46RE converter won't work, it'll have to be a 727 converter.
    - Custom transmount...It needs to be about two inches longer, (tranny is shorter) I can get a pic of a modded one and stock one.
    - Driveshaft will have to be longer/custom.
    - Flex plate...I had to open up the holes a little on my flex plate for the bolts to fit.
    - I think the tailshaft of the 727 is thinner than a 46RE, I swear my engine is angled down towards the back more than it was. If your engine is still in the truck, jack the front or back of the truck up till the bedrails are dead nuts level, put an angle gauge on your crank pulley and record the angle...After the swap, level out the truck and check the angle and adjust it if needed with shims between trans mount and tailshaft.
    - Check Pinion Angle after the swap.
    - Enjoy...
    If its anything like the 904 your engine is definitely angled lower in the back.

    2002 Silver CC R/T TURBO, tremec 5sp conv, Accel DFI.

    1999 Black RC

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    What can be done about that? Just make the tranny mount higher?
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    You can shim the rear of the transmission, adjust the pinion angle, or make a mount with better fitment.

    Since you have a club cab, the driveshaft will be your biggest issue. It will be getting up there in length so the balancing will have to be spot on.

    2002 Silver CC R/T TURBO, tremec 5sp conv, Accel DFI.

    1999 Black RC

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    Quote Originally Posted by GrimRT View Post
    You can shim the rear of the transmission, adjust the pinion angle, or make a mount with better fitment.

    Since you have a club cab, the driveshaft will be your biggest issue. It will be getting up there in length so the balancing will have to be spot on.
    Yea, for the power I am looking at its going to either be a 2-piece or carbon fiber. And a grip of money to go with it.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Adobedude View Post
    - Driveshaft will have to be longer/custom.
    I know you had some issues getting that sorted out, what did your final length end up being?


    Quote Originally Posted by ADakotaRTGuy View Post
    I got the guys from moparts advise on a builder and they quoted me 1095 for a 727, manual valve body(normal throw), rollerized rear sprag, 5 clutches or some shit like that.
    That's not a bad price at all, did he say what power level it would hold?

    -Dave-
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    Quote Originally Posted by bad425rt View Post
    That's not a bad price at all, did he say what power level it would hold?
    Did not ask him directly, but he asked weight and E.T. Into the 9's and 3600 lbs.
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    So I take it a TH400 is out of the question for such a application? I know someone back in the day had a TH400 in their Dakota or Durango. I guess the prices will be about the same to build a 727 or th400. Fuck it 2 speed powerglide it time. j/kin

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    Quote Originally Posted by BluRT00 View Post
    So I take it a TH400 is out of the question for such a application? I know someone back in the day had a TH400 in their Dakota or Durango. I guess the prices will be about the same to build a 727 or th400. Fuck it 2 speed powerglide it time. j/kin
    Crank sensor is the real issue. And flexplate maybe? Do you need the flexplate if you don't have the crank sensor?
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    Sick 660r's Avatar
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    so much for being a nice street truck. Why dont you just go balls to wall and stop fucking around.


    Quote Originally Posted by BluRT00 View Post
    Part your red sport out and buy a gen 2. Problem solved.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Sick 660r View Post
    so much for being a nice street truck. Why dont you just go balls to wall and stop fucking around.
    With the standalone you mean?
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    Yeh, I'd say it's way overdue, lol. Then you can run more boost. Low compression and more boost is always better for a given fuel.

    '99 R/T- MSIIextra fuel/spark/idle, ZCP mx422 supercharged, ZCP Tbrake 727, PPC 10" 3800, 4.10, (\/) Headers, 2.5" Duals, Truetrac, Boyd Timeless 6's, Hotchkis TVS.
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    Sick 660r's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ADakotaRTGuy View Post
    With the standalone you mean?
    I mean with everything. I know you change your mind a lot but it seems like you waste money sometimes trying to keep things more street friendly and end up changing it later on. IDK thats just my opinion.


    Quote Originally Posted by BluRT00 View Post
    Part your red sport out and buy a gen 2. Problem solved.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Five9Dak View Post
    Yeh, I'd say it's way overdue, lol. Then you can run more boost. Low compression and more boost is always better for a given fuel.
    This is true. Thought about doing E85, that would be nice. Build me a good megasquirt setup, haha.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sick 660r View Post
    I mean with everything. I know you change your mind a lot but it seems like you waste money sometimes trying to keep things more street friendly and end up changing it later on. IDK thats just my opinion.
    Yea I do, but a lot of has to do with the ability to keep improving while keeping it street friendly. The 727 with a low rear gear is not going to be bad, the 46re seemed to costly to build up and keep reliable. I had every intention of using the 46re, but cost gets out of hand quickly with that trans. So sell it and buy the 727, nearly a wash. Talked to Moser, and the rear end is pretty much at its limit with this build. They said do not run drag radials as they will be very harsh on the axles.
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    Sick 660r's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ADakotaRTGuy View Post
    Yea I do, but a lot of has to do with the ability to keep improving while keeping it street friendly. The 727 with a low rear gear is not going to be bad, the 46re seemed to costly to build up and keep reliable. I had every intention of using the 46re, but cost gets out of hand quickly with that trans. So sell it and buy the 727, nearly a wash. Talked to Moser, and the rear end is pretty much at its limit with this build. They said do not run drag radials as they will be very harsh on the axles.
    that really blows


    Quote Originally Posted by BluRT00 View Post
    Part your red sport out and buy a gen 2. Problem solved.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Sick 660r View Post
    that really blows
    I think it's great, cause no one would ever buy the damn rear end, now that would be a super waste of money if I could not sell it. So, I am done after this.
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    Quote Originally Posted by ADakotaRTGuy View Post
    I think it's great, cause no one would ever buy the damn rear end, now that would be a super waste of money if I could not sell it. So, I am done after this.
    quoting for future proof


    Quote Originally Posted by BluRT00 View Post
    Part your red sport out and buy a gen 2. Problem solved.

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