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Thread: 727 advice

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    Default 727 advice

    Lot's of people have been sending me PMs about going to a 727.

    -Don't do it you drive on the street very much. As little as I drive mine on the street, it sucks on any street over 45 mph with 4.56 gears.
    -If you do go to a 727, even if it's strip only, keep the 3.92 gears, maybe 4.10s.
    - The one thing I keep forgetting to tell everyone is don't get a reverse manual valve body. You can't just drop it into neutral if there's a problem, or coast to a stop to take a plug reading.
    11.27 @ 118.23
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  2. #2

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    keep your advice to yourself......:P

    2002 Silver CC R/T TURBO, tremec 5sp conv, Accel DFI.

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    Keep your TKO to yourself.
    Bah.

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    Sick 660r's Avatar
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    Im confused. Is a 727 good on the street or not?


    Quote Originally Posted by BluRT00 View Post
    Part your red sport out and buy a gen 2. Problem solved.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Sick 660r View Post
    Im confused. Is a 727 good on the street or not?
    There's no OD...It'll have to be a Manual valve body, the PCM won't even see a 727.

    I think 3.92s would be killer on the street, and would work with 150 shot at the strip without spinning to over 7K...I just wonder if the 3.92 gears would hurt my NA times.
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    Sick 660r's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Adobedude View Post
    There's no OD...It'll have to be a Manual valve body, the PCM won't even see a 727.

    I think 3.92s would be killer on the street, and would work with 150 shot at the strip without spinning to over 7K...I just wonder if the 3.92 gears would hurt my NA times.
    I guess I should have added a lol or a


    Quote Originally Posted by BluRT00 View Post
    Part your red sport out and buy a gen 2. Problem solved.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Sick 660r View Post
    I guess I should have added a lol or a
    Never too late...
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    BryanRT360's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Adobedude View Post
    There's no OD...It'll have to be a Manual valve body, the PCM won't even see a 727.

    I think 3.92s would be killer on the street, and would work with 150 shot at the strip without spinning to over 7K...I just wonder if the 3.92 gears would hurt my NA times.
    n/a time will suffer, but you do have that 4k stall to make up the difference.. Do it.. and Spray it...
    2002 AB CC R/T (R.I.P)
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    slvr03dakrt's Avatar
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    Quit being a puss and spray the damn thing j/k


    Forged 408 12.10 @ 111mph under the knife again

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    Quote Originally Posted by BryanRT360 View Post
    n/a time will suffer, but you do have that 4k stall to make up the difference.. Do it.. and Spray it...
    I'm all about NA... Ain't gonna do anything to hurt where I am...I can't afford to spray every run, who can?

    I just need to spin it higher without turning it to scrap metal..

    And I know me...I'm one of those guys that will stay on the gas even though I'm upside down and backwards, (Motocrosss days) so why would a motor about to let go make get out of the throttle?

    Young and Dumb = Old and Numb.
    11.27 @ 118.23
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  11. #11

    Default 727 in dakota

    Just some info on the 727 deal. The 46RE is the same thing even uses most of the same internals. Yes there is no overdrive but, it does not consume as much power as the 46RE. The OD is nice on the street I have used this setup in race trucks only. You don't have to use a manual valve body. They came with automatic valve bodies from chrysler. They were used in pretty much everthing Chrysler produced. If you want to get real trick use the 904 TF with heavy duty internals. They consume the least power of all the Chrysler automatics.
    Last edited by perfinj; 07-25-2010 at 02:21 AM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by perfinj View Post
    Just some info on the 727 deal. The 46RE is the same thing even uses most of the same internals. Yes there is no overdrive but, it does not consume as much power as the 46RE. The OD is nice on the street I have used this setup in race trucks only. You don't have to use a manual valve body. They came with automatic valve bodies from chrysler. They were used in pretty much everthing Chrysler produced. If you want to get real trick use the 904 TF with heavy duty internals. They consume the least power of all the Chrysler automatics.
    Our PCM won't shift or even see the 727. Easiest change is going to a manual valve body, and why on earth would you want anything but a manual valve body in a full race truck...?

    I agree the 904 would be faster, but it would be less durable, especially sitting in a 2 ton truck
    11.27 @ 118.23
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  13. #13

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    Quote Originally Posted by Adobedude View Post
    Our PCM won't shift or even see the 727. Easiest change is going to a manual valve body, and why on earth would you want anything but a manual valve body in a full race truck...?

    I agree the 904 would be faster, but it would be less durable, especially sitting in a 2 ton truck
    The 727 isn't computer controlled (there weren't any computers in the 60's) it shifts based on the kick-down cable and hydraulic pressure. You could use an auto shift valve body, you would just need to monkey-up your own kick down cable bracket. BTW, there are reverse pattern valve bodies available with dual neutral positions, so you have your normal neutral and a second neutral after third, so you can hit neutral after the burnout, and at the end of the run.

    Plus, a 518 is also a hydraulic controlled OD tranny that is much stronger than a 904, and takes a lot less power than a 46re
    Last edited by wyotech_cuda440; 07-25-2010 at 04:33 AM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by wyotech_cuda440 View Post
    The 727 isn't computer controlled (there weren't any computers in the 60's) it shifts based on the kick-down cable and hydraulic pressure. You could use an auto shift valve body, you would just need to monkey-up your own kick down cable bracket. BTW, there are reverse pattern valve bodies available with dual neutral positions, so you have your normal neutral and a second neutral after third, so you can hit neutral after the burnout, and at the end of the run.

    Plus, a 518 is also a hydraulic controlled OD tranny that is much stronger than a 904, and takes a lot less power than a 46re
    Good info about the dual neutral valve body. I suggested to use a manual valve body because it a piece of cake, don't have screw around with anything like a kick down cable...I think everyone making the swap is doing so because they want better performance and are tired of the 46RE with it's PCM controlled shifts. I know I'm glad to be done with it.

    EDIT: I checked John Copes website, it's clled a clean neutral.....Sure would be nice.
    Last edited by Adobedude; 07-25-2010 at 12:11 PM.
    11.27 @ 118.23
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  15. #15

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    Quote Originally Posted by Adobedude View Post
    Good info about the dual neutral valve body. I suggested to use a manual valve body because it a piece of cake, don't have screw around with anything like a kick down cable...I think everyone making the swap is doing so because they want better performance and are tired of the 46RE with it's PCM controlled shifts. I know I'm glad to be done with it.

    EDIT: I checked John Copes website, it's clled a clean neutral.....Sure would be nice.
    I couln't remember who made the valve bodies, but I saw it in an old HotRod or something, and I have wanted one ever since. The good news is that the Cheetah SCS is compatible with a clean neutral valve body, so you dont have to buy a new shifter. I have the same shifter in my Cuda.
    http://www.turboaction.com/shifter2.html
    It changes the entire shift pattern, making it P,N and R,1,2,3,N. Neutral and reverse are the same position because it's a transbrake valve body, by putting it in neutral and hitting the transbrake gives you reverse.
    Plus, having the trans brake would be really nice too.
    Last edited by wyotech_cuda440; 07-25-2010 at 06:18 PM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by wyotech_cuda440 View Post
    I couln't remember who made the valve bodies, but I saw it in an old HotRod or something, and I have wanted one ever since. The good news is that the Cheetah SCS is compatible with a clean neutral valve body, so you dont have to buy a new shifter. I have the same shifter in my Cuda.
    http://www.turboaction.com/shifter2.html
    It changes the entire shift pattern, making it P,N and R,1,2,3,N. Neutral and reverse are the same position because it's a transbrake valve body, by putting it in neutral and hitting the transbrake gives you reverse.
    Plus, having the trans brake would be really nice too.
    A trans brake would be nice, but that's how you start breaking parts too. Right now I'm foot braking, but anything over 2K and it starts to push the truck so I shallow stage, but I'd sure like to bump launch RPMs up to 3K.
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    BluRT00's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Adobedude View Post
    A trans brake would be nice, but that's how you start breaking parts too. Right now I'm foot braking, but anything over 2K and it starts to push the truck so I shallow stage, but I'd sure like to bump launch RPMs up to 3K.
    Put some more ass into it when applying the brake.

  18. #18
    sox amigo

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    Quote Originally Posted by BluRT00 View Post
    Put some more ass into it when applying the brake.
    hes almost 60 years old how much ass do you think he has? could put it in neutral and rev it while pressing the brake to create more presure.
    <img src=images/smilies/worky.gif border=0 alt= title=Worky class=inlineimg />

  19. #19

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    How do you guys like the cheetah shifter?

    2002 Silver CC R/T TURBO, tremec 5sp conv, Accel DFI.

    1999 Black RC

  20. #20

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    Quote Originally Posted by GrimRT View Post
    How do you guys like the cheetah shifter?
    I love mine, never had any problems, always shifts good without ever having to readjust anything. I have had B&M ratchet's in the past on a 700r4, but every now and then it would fuck up and half shift, then I would have to go screw around with it to make it shift right. Maybe thats uncommon with B&M's, but the cheetah has been flawless

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    Pumpkin Truck Driver

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    Quote Originally Posted by GrimRT View Post
    How do you guys like the cheetah shifter?
    I'll chime in as that's what the Duster has in it. I'd echo the sentiments before me. It works perfectly and I've never had to mess with it. Shifts are seamless and effortless, operate it with one finger if you want. If I had to have a compliant it would be that it's not exactly pretty compared to what can be had but that's just personal preference.
    -John

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    Quote Originally Posted by wyotech_cuda440 View Post
    I love mine, never had any problems, always shifts good without ever having to readjust anything. I have had B&M ratchet's in the past on a 700r4, but every now and then it would fuck up and half shift, then I would have to go screw around with it to make it shift right. Maybe thats uncommon with B&M's, but the cheetah has been flawless
    I like my Cheetah, just have to remember to shift it with care, easy to pull from 1st to 3rd.
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    Quote Originally Posted by bfranzel View Post
    hes almost 60 years old how much ass do you think he has? could put it in neutral and rev it while pressing the brake to create more presure.
    You guys need to back off the gay porn sites and quit thinking about guys asses. Especially mine....

    11.27 @ 118.23
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  24. #24

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    Quote Originally Posted by Adobedude View Post
    I like my Cheetah, just have to remember to shift it with care, easy to pull from 1st to 3rd.
    I remember you posting about that in the past, do you have the 70001 or 70011 shifter? When it's in second, is it spring loaded to the left or the right? Mine is the 70001, it is spring loaded to the right, so I have to pull it left then down to hit third, I can't imagine missing a shift like that. I think the 70011 is spring loaded to the left, so as you pull to second it will jump left and could keep on moving to third.

    BTW, I thought you were headed to Bandimere this weekend?

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    bad360rt's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Adobedude View Post
    I like my Cheetah, just have to remember to shift it with care, easy to pull from 1st to 3rd.
    That's why I'm going with a ratchet shifter, can't skip a gear.

    -Dave-
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