It is preferred that the gap be roughly the size of the filler rod, but any gap can be filled by running a bead down one side and then back up the other. It just won't look as pretty.
Type: Posts; User: grapejuice1998
It is preferred that the gap be roughly the size of the filler rod, but any gap can be filled by running a bead down one side and then back up the other. It just won't look as pretty.
Check and make sure you still have your wallet.
Nobody wants a case of Garlits Foot.
When a 727 lets go, it ain't pretty.
http://www.dakotart.com/forum/showthread.php?27927-Exploding-727-Thread
And forget about a u/d pulley, thats day 1 stuff. Not enough bang for the buck either.
You just like being Davey Downer.
If all you really wanted was fast, you'd be behind the wheel of a Dart.
No more than and probably much less than a SyTy.
The problem with collectability is; most people want a low mileage, pristine example. Those are becoming rarer and rarer, because people also seek...
F&B has a Lifetime warranty on their products, so if you have a t/b you can run in the meantime, you can send the one that's sticking in to be fixed.
In any case, I would give them a call and see...
Good Lord!!
Is the amp load similar?
That was actually the main gripe about even stroking to 408. We just don't have the heads available to take advantage of the increase in stroke. Bumping to 426 just strangles it even more. And a 220...
I have heard of people sawing out the top of the box and leaving the a/c intact, then epoxying it all back together after the heater core was installed. I would just pull the system down and replace...
The heater core is such a tough job, I have been without one for 4-5 years now, so I would take that advice and have the new one tested too.
The symptoms you describe are definitely a failing heater core. Change it out now, before it fails completely and soaks your carpet with antifreeze.
Seriously. R/T rims are sought after and cutting the cable to get the spare would be the quickest way. Did you check?
Yes, you certainly can.
Which headers are they? I had a Mopar header leak where the primary tube goes into the head flange. I didn't notice it, but the muffler guy spotted it immediately.
If anything, maybe an upgraded coil like the Accel and a good set of Firecore wires. Brass cap, rotor and a fresh set of plugs, then you're all set. Even for nitrous.
I thought it was more your track than the truck itself, which is probably why the softer tires hooked better.
450 is a pretty stout build, especially considering that most of the dyno numbers that get thrown around are RWHP, not at the crank.
Mine is a 1994 Magnum block, with a Mopar Performance 4" cast...
:biggthumpup:
I can't tell you who/where/how, but I know I remember someone running a t-brake on a 46re.
I find no redeeming factors with the floor shifter. I wish I had never done it.
It looks odd/out of place (it's the only chrome in the truck), it never has sat right, it rattles, the t...
You can run a 2in/2out cat and save money.
Best mod, nitrous.
Worst mod, that friggin floor shifter.
For a street truck, I would stay hydraulic. Rhodes are a really good choice, as they are more street friendly. They actually decrease lift at idle and low rpms, they they go all in above a certain...