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I haven’t had a customer yet complain about a stiff pedal when stepping to my brakes.

But my front kits alone run $1750, so...

I hear Chad loves hoodies but refuses to organize the group buy himself, sooo......:jester:

Hey, sorry. Saw the email notification for the post but forgot to reply.

Yes I still have a few of the hats. Send the payment to the club PayPal and I’ll Get it shipped out.

Keep in mind yours uses the old nv4500 cast aluminum bell that’s cut and welded up to fit a T56. More than one person has had to get them completely reworked due to cracking. Also, good luck...

Also, all the cross members were the same regardless of auto/stick

Yup. And the master cylinder.

T56 needs:
QuickTime bell
Custom 130 tooth flywheel
10.5 or 10.95” 26-spline clutch
Viper hyd TO bearing
Fittings and -3an hose to connect viper TO to dakota...

I had a nv3500 originally. Never had a problem with exhaust figment. That was with edelbrock mids and Mopar Pph.

Bell is cast into the transmission case. It’s all one piece. Even if it was...

Cool.

You seem to know what you’re doing. Don’t call the guy who builds custom flywheels or clutches.

Have fun.

Why are you reinventing the wheel? All that work has already been done. Call Gerko enterprises and order a flywheel. Talk to him about clutches because he’s also a clutch expert and the sole US...

Hope someone took the time to figure out the alloy to choose the right filler and process before blasting away at it. Those pieces are typically made out of hardened tool steel and welding on it can...

I have a few shifters laying around oem viper and I think a spare front location shifter.

Pm me if you need one for parts

Yup

Nope

There’s a reason that 15” wheels were no longer an option starting in 2003

The stock wheels are such a horrible design for brake clearance, I can almost guarantee you won’t get a 14” set-up to fit. But, I don’t have a 17” wheel to test with.

9.25 is stout. Do what Dave did

140 seems ok. If you were down at 100, or had 1 cylinder low, you would do the leak down to find out where it’s going. A rudimentary way to do one is to just put shop air to the cylinder to hear...

Normal. The spindle is cast iron. The pads are steel backed. Wear is going to happen. Need to file the spindle till its flat again.

Or buy one of my brake kits and run fixed Brembo calipers.

Placement isn't that critical. Anywhere the sensor is in water is all you need

Last time I saw it it was. I'll take a look at it my next time out there.

I have one in storage but it's got some rust on it.

FYI... crank at 12, cam at 6 with the dots... is TDC, firing on #6

Both dots at 12 is TDC, firing #1.

This is why so many distributors get installed 180 degrees off and engines don't start

I've never had a new hub assembly NOT come with a new nut. no need to buy new ones separately. Keep your receipt in case you decide to return them.

Why do you want to remove it? What will you put in the hole after you remove the sensor? What's wrong with just leaving the sensor there, unplugged and not hooked up to anything?

Uh, reservoir size/shape/location is completely irrelevant to its function.

They used to be different from year to year, but the parts suppliers have apparently decided to stock the 03/04 master for all 97-04 Dakotas, because it's cheaper to make 1 vs 2 different types of...