Nice parts follow through Wiggsy. Should make for a nice street truck with more energy than the original.
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Nice parts follow through Wiggsy. Should make for a nice street truck with more energy than the original.
Thanks arro222, that was the plan I guess was an engine refresh with better stuff. It's our fun toy now to cruise around and check out the local car shows and meets with.
I aimed too high at first with the 408 as I really liked my dad's stroker that he has in his '81 Malibu and I really wanted to have him build one with me but distance and old Father Time has made that rather difficult. My dad has been building street and Racing engines for 40 plus years, retired now but still dabbles in it for special builds. He's old school and I'm still amazed with his great wealth of knowledge:burnout:
Making the trip out to Whiplash Engine & Machine tomorrow with the remainder of parts to start assembly. Working on the M1 a little bit, smoothed out the ports is all nothing significant. Added some black paint to the casting letters and numbers.
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So here's my nervous question:
Do you think this will run and how bad?
I ask because of the cam being installed, I was wondering how crappy do they run with no tunage.
Posting this AEM Wide Band to SCT X3 connection diagram for others to use. Hopefully it will help someone out:biggthumpup:
[IMG]http://i1021.photobucket.com/albums/.../IMG_0998.jpeg[/IMG]
Engine assembly starts this week. I'll post up anything I get from the "Dude".
I 'm with you guys. My project has came to a stop and now I'm waiting....
Just got an email from Ryan. He asked for me to fill out a "Build Sheet" on the FRP website and he said he could get it out today. My bad on not reading the FAQ and not knowing thus never filling out the build sheet. If you haven't filled it out, look under the "SCT TUNING" tab drop down and there is a "SCT VEHICLE BUILD SHEET" page. Pretty easy and only takes a minute.
Thanks, Ryan!
Didn't know that is where the build sheet was located and I didn't see it jump out at me on my phone sized web browser. I did ask however for this build sheet.
Now waiting to hear back on my machinist guy who became swamped and possibly sick from the cold going around these parts.
:bored_work:
Engine assembly starting this week, he was sick last week. Crank is out for grind and then rotating assembly balancing. Should have some pics and some video later in the week.
Jayson has started machine work on the block this week. In this link he's making the bushings for mounting the block on the horizontal boring machine https://instaliga.com/whiplashmachin...994_3289840730
In this link he is grinding the con rods and caps while the block is on the horizontal boring machine https://instaliga.com/whiplashmachin...397_3289840730
Today he got into the boring https://instaliga.com/whiplashmachin...497_3289840730
Looks like a good block https://instaliga.com/whiplashmachin...827_3289840730
Short answer is that this is a performance street engine build with many years of fun driving mileage. It is not a race engine that will be brken down and rebuilt every season.
Long answer:
"There are two common ways of making a piston.
You can cast it in a mold, or you can forge it under extreme applied pressure in a forging press.
*Note*, this says absolutely nothing about what material the piston is made from, it is only the METHOD used to shape the material into the shape of a piston.
Now quite independent of HOW the piston shape is shaped, you then get to chose the type of aluminium alloy, and maybe heat treatment. There are two popular materials, pretty much pure aluminium, and aluminium very rich in silicon (sand !).
O/k now the advantages and disadvantages.
Cast pistons can be made absolutely any intricate shape, because after the molten metal has cooled solid, the multi piece mold can then be extracted from inside the piston. Very complicated slots, reinforcing ribs, oil holes and other complex features can readily be built in, and a piston can be designed to be both very light, and very strong where it needs to be made strong.
Forged pistons are stamped out in one rapid and very violent operation, where a male punch is driven into a female die to form the entire piston shape. This always has the limitation that the punch needs to be subsequently withdrawn straight out of the die backwards, meaning the inside shape has to be designed both tapered and very simple and smooth in form.
So cast pistons are almost always lighter in weight, and more intricate inside, and can be more cleverly designed.
Forged pistons will almost always be heavier and always smooth inside, the extra metal usually adding more to weight than to strength. Some forgings are truly massive, and very very strong, but also quite heavy.
Both methods can produce a perfectly usable piston, but if you either want something very light or very strong, one method may have some particular advantages over the other.
Now the material choice boils down to two very different classes of material.
Raw natural aluminium is soft, and it expands hugely with heat, but it is tough and bends before it breaks. The raw aluminium pistons in your top fuel dragster will take a hell of a battering. They will bend like a drink can or melt before they crack or shatter from detonation, these are true racing pistons. And they can be either forged or cast, but are usually forged.
The bad news is the high thermal expansion, they must be fitted very loose and they rock and rattle in the bores when cold. They also wear very quickly because they are SOFT. These racing pistons are ideal for a very high output engine that is regularly stripped after only a few races and rebuilt, but very bad news in a long life street engine.
Now the very high silicon hypereutectic pistons are very hard and brittle, have minimal thermal expansion, and can be fitted very tightly into the bores for good cold compression silent running and good oil control. They seal very well, and last a long time, and they are perfect for a long life road engine. These pistons can also be bought either cast or forged, but they have one unfortunate disadvantage.
Being brittle, detonation will crack them quite easily. But if you can keep out of detonation, they would be the best choice for most of us here.
So the most common types of pistons are:
Cast hypereutectic, very light, very long wearing, seal very well, but prone to crack if detonation occurs. What most of the car manufacturers fit, they are excellent pistons.
Cast aluminium pistons are just not made anymore, they have all the disadvantages and no advantage.
Forged hypereutectic, both heavier and stronger, very long wearing, seal very well best choice for high performance on the street.
Forged aluminium, heavy, very very strong, the toughest pistons you can buy for a real competition engine. They will rattle and wear fast and typically start burning oil after a few thousand road miles. But if you are building a 9,000 rpm six second car, you don't plan on expecting 150,000 miles between rebuilds, huh ?
All the major piston manufacturers offer their forged pistons in BOTH types of material, and the clearance will tell you if they are the hard or soft material.
Or put simply, "rubber" aluminium pistons for a race motor or "glass" hypereutectic pistons for your streeter.
So there are two things, HOW the piston is made cast or forged.
And WHAT alloy the piston is made from." - The Dude
Damn Wiggsy, a simple "because I want to" would have been sufficient. :roflmao:
Just kidding. I like when people explain themselves with serious answers:biggthumpup:
Never did I expect an answer like that but I am glad he did. I learned a lot with the "long" answer lol. Paying it forward with knowledge. That is what these forums are for. If we ever cross paths I will buy that man a beer. I just hope it's in the US because beer prices north of us are ridiculous.
Just wanted to share what my decision was based upon.