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View Full Version : Cant get snap on scanner to communicate?


kidkrawler
03-25-2010, 07:45 PM
I wanted to set fuel sync, I cant get the snap on scanner, the red brick 2500, to read my jeep. It just says no communication, is key on etc.

If I connect under generic OBD2 it shows all of the data but fuel sync is only an option under the Dodge menu. I have tried a Jeep, a Dodge different years and different keys in the OBD2 plug, no luck. The Snap-On scanner works fine on my GM car and my code reader reads my Jeep just fine.

I have an OTC Genysis I can try later but I do not know if the special tests include fuel sync, I think it has a cam sync test.

Anyone had this before?

Special Ed's R/T - Yaaaay
03-25-2010, 07:58 PM
do you have the right "key" installed in the scanner

kidkrawler
03-25-2010, 08:00 PM
Yup I think it was K8, I tried a couple of others just to see but saw no difference. The OBD2 used K2 and it worked fine for that method.

mtlcafan79
03-25-2010, 08:53 PM
I'm pretty sure it's 13 you need.

kidkrawler
03-25-2010, 08:54 PM
I will look into that, the scanner tells me k8.

grapejuice1998
03-25-2010, 09:04 PM
I will look into that, the scanner tells me k8.

Use whatever key the scanner tells you to use. K13 is for a Dodge truck, but there's no guarantee that it works the same for a Jeep.

My 2500 stopped communicating with my PCM recently. I had to replace the K13 key with a new one. It was about $25 off of the Snap On truck.

kidkrawler
03-25-2010, 11:49 PM
This thing is a joke. I have a Mac Mentor, a Snap On 2500, an LM2, a SCT, a generic hand held and an ignition scope and cant set fuel sync. If I had known I had to piss away 1k in tuning I would have dropped an LS1 in this thing like an intelligent person. I called Chrysler and they said to drop my rig off for 2 days and for $100 they will set it. I tried to explain to the guy I would not leave my 60k rig sitting at a shop for 2 days and he just laughed and said Chrysler pretty much has me by the balls. What a great setup this thing is. Im supposed to leave Tuesday and have not even data logged it yet.

BryanRT360
03-26-2010, 12:59 AM
what year truck. mine 2002 used a 13a key. the earlier ones used the 13.

this was yrs ago. my buddy used to have the brick and all the keys and cartridges. he since upgraded to the "modious" and we have yet to find the fuel sync option:jerkit: so now. i just twist the dist. till she runs the best:jester:

kidkrawler
03-26-2010, 01:26 AM
It is a 1998, I have tried moving the dist. around but it always dies after letting off the gas when driving and when sitting you rev it up and when it idles back down it falls on its face and then sputters and runs. Front O2 is hooked up and Sean said the sync needs to be set before he can tune.

sunike32
03-26-2010, 01:28 AM
It is a 1998, I have tried moving the dist. around but it always dies after letting off the gas when driving and when sitting you rev it up and when it idles back down it falls on its face and then sputters and runs. Front O2 is hooked up and Sean said the sync needs to be set before he can tune.

Is the IAC junk?

kidkrawler
03-26-2010, 01:42 AM
It worked just fine on my motor I had in there a month ago. I guess I am just going to bend over and take it to chrysler tomorrow, Sean said go to +2 but everyone on here says 4-6. Any reason why?

grapejuice1998
03-26-2010, 02:19 AM
It worked just fine on my motor I had in there a month ago. I guess I am just going to bend over and take it to chrysler tomorrow, Sean said go to +2 but everyone on here says 4-6. Any reason why?

If the 1/2 shaft is in the right position, then you should be able to set the motor on #1 TDC and then point the rotor at the notch on the distributor base to line it up on Zero sync. That should get it to at least run and be tuned.

The 1/2 shaft slot should point at the drivers side, front, inside corner of the valve cover, which looking straight down on it, should be roughly 5 O'clock.

kidkrawler
03-26-2010, 02:47 AM
So is the physical notch on the top of the distributor where the cap sits on it? I can just take the cap off, go to tdc with the rotor pointed at one and align the tip of the rotor with said notch? I read online if you twist the distributor to one direction it will give you that slightly advanced number, is this recommended? Which way do you turn it to advance the sync?

Also I ported my stock TB for the time being, and when I pulled the Tps off the throttle blade snapped back one direction, like it had a little bit of preload on it from the sensor itself. Could I have set the TPS back in wrong causing an issue? I dont have any codes.

Sean said the fuel sync needs to be set before he can use any wideband info off my rig, how are all of these people online who set their sync by ear getting their tunes?

BryanRT360
03-26-2010, 03:15 AM
So is the physical notch on the top of the distributor where the cap sits on it? I can just take the cap off, go to tdc with the rotor pointed at one and align the tip of the rotor with said notch? I read online if you twist the distributor to one direction it will give you that slightly advanced number, is this recommended? Which way do you turn it to advance the sync?

Also I ported my stock TB for the time being, and when I pulled the Tps off the throttle blade snapped back one direction, like it had a little bit of preload on it from the sensor itself. Could I have set the TPS back in wrong causing an issue? I dont have any codes.

Sean said the fuel sync needs to be set before he can use any wideband info off my rig, how are all of these people online who set their sync by ear getting their tunes?

I kept fucking with mine till it ran the best. I send sean my data and he sends me a tune. the A/F meter dont lie. it had it nailed down pretty good.

Special Ed's R/T - Yaaaay
03-26-2010, 12:07 PM
Yup I think it was K8, I tried a couple of others just to see but saw no difference. The OBD2 used K2 and it worked fine for that method.

k13 is the correct key

kidkrawler
03-26-2010, 01:19 PM
Hmmm, the scan tool says use the K8 key, I do not have K13 key. Maybe I will try and set this thing with the voltmeter and order a key in the meantime. My card in the scanner is for up to 1998, it just seems odd it is asking for the K8 key.

Special Ed's R/T - Yaaaay
03-26-2010, 01:57 PM
Hmmm, the scan tool says use the K8 key, I do not have K13 key. Maybe I will try and set this thing with the voltmeter and order a key in the meantime. My card in the scanner is for up to 1998, it just seems odd it is asking for the K8 key.


how old is you box ? it might need a software update

kidkrawler
03-26-2010, 02:02 PM
It is older, we use the mac mentor now and have probably let the updates slide. What do you update it with? New modules to plug into the box? If I new what module I needed I would order it just so I could always do it myself rather than go to the dealer.

Special Ed's R/T - Yaaaay
03-26-2010, 02:03 PM
call snap on tech support, tell 'em what you have. they'll steer you in the right direction. I do know that there are at least 2 or 3 different "personality" modules for Chrysler products

98Dak408
03-29-2010, 02:24 AM
FWIW, the K13 key wouldn't work with my MT2500. I switched to the 13A and that took care of the problem.

BryanRT360
03-29-2010, 02:25 AM
FWIW, the K13 key wouldn't work with my MT2500. I switched to the 13A and that took care of the problem.

same here

Special Ed's R/T - Yaaaay
03-29-2010, 01:47 PM
FWIW, the K13 key wouldn't work with my MT2500. I switched to the 13A and that took care of the problem.

that's correct, depending on the year. either K13 or K13a