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View Full Version : 99 evap removal- revisited..



PeteRT
03-17-2008, 03:06 AM
ya ya, i know- its a dead horse...

im pulling all the bullshit out from under the truck- looking for weight savings..

that black box thing on the drivers side frame fwd of the gas tank... it doesn't have any electrical connections on it, just seems utilize engine vaccuum to draw fumage out of the gas tank and filter it.

so- im thinking i can just yank the fucker out and cap the lines, although im sure the vent line from the tank should not be capped to avoid "collapse".. just zip tie it out of the way i guess... what about the motor side lines? leave em there, or cut em down to length and just leave them connected?

i think i remember hearing of a resistor that needed to be placed somewhere... i cant remember shit and i cant find anything searching on delphi...

any of you got some tips or a link- im all ears.
thanks
pete

BTLFED R/T
03-17-2008, 03:39 AM
The resistor is needed in the electrical connector for the shit on the firewall. 1/4 watt 100 ohm, does that sound right? And that big rubber hose sticking up behind the driver side valve cover, I think someone used the cap on that for something by the gas tank, probably the hose you're talking about.

PeteRT
03-17-2008, 04:49 AM
i yanked that big fucker out a while ago when it fell on my header... i just looked at it and scratched my head thinking "what the fucks the point of that?"

i just took about a 3" length of it and stuck it into the canister with the little vent cap from the engine compartment. basically just shortened it back to the can.

100 ohm 1/4 watt sounds familiar for the WOT 1/2 shift after a shift kit install... im unfamiliar with what needs done where for the evap thing.. i know i gotta put one in on that vacuum tree that hangs on the firewall... but thats all that i know. ive packed up all my shit in the garage- but im thinking the plug that needs it would be a two wire, and just solder the resistor between them?- kinda like just jumping it out with the leads on the resistor?... or splice it into one of the wires and leave it plugged in? hmm....
pete

BTLFED R/T
03-17-2008, 05:58 AM
I have 2 of the resistors sitting in the toolbox that Kyle gave me last year at the meet when he and I were talking about removing that shit. Doesn't have anything on it that tells me what size it is. I can send them to you if you want?

PeteRT
03-17-2008, 12:06 PM
nah, they're like 6 cents at radio shack, thanks though.

mtlcafan79
03-17-2008, 12:19 PM
I removed everything on my 99. The line from fuel tank has a lawn mower fuel filter on it tied to the filler neck.

Adobedude
03-17-2008, 12:57 PM
.

100 ohm 1/4 watt sounds familiar for the WOT 1/2 shift after a shift kit install... im unfamiliar with what needs done where for the evap thing.. i know i gotta put one in on that vacuum tree that hangs on the firewall... but thats all that i know. ive packed up all my shit in the garage- but im thinking the plug that needs it would be a two wire, and just solder the resistor between them?- kinda like just jumping it out with the leads on the resistor?... or splice it into one of the wires and leave it plugged in? hmm....
pete

I yanked all my EVAP stuff, but never did solder in a resistor, so my CEL is on, but it's always on anyway, so I covered it up.

Twisted R/T
03-17-2008, 02:04 PM
I have 2 of the resistors sitting in the toolbox that Kyle gave me last year at the meet when he and I were talking about removing that shit. Doesn't have anything on it that tells me what size it is. I can send them to you if you want?

Or... it coulda been Bill that gave you those:jester:

BTLFED R/T
03-17-2008, 09:08 PM
Or... it coulda been Bill that gave you those:jester:

No, it was definitely Kyle! All you gave me was gonorhea! :laughing:

PeteRT
03-17-2008, 11:00 PM
I removed everything on my 99. The line from fuel tank has a lawn mower fuel filter on it tied to the filler neck.

did you have to do the resistor thing?
pete

hskr
03-18-2008, 03:02 AM
Use a 1/2w 100ohm resistor. I burned up a couple of the 1/4 watt ones on my truck. They get pretty warm. As far as the hoses, yank all that shit off, you don't need it. And no real need for a filter on the line to the fuel tank. It's not like anything is going to be able to migrate it's way 4' up from the end of the hose and into the gas tank, unless you are driving under water.

Adobedude
03-18-2008, 04:40 AM
What's the purpose of the resistor...Is it to only keep the CEL off, or does it affect anything performance wise?

If it's CEL only, fuck it.

BTLFED R/T
03-18-2008, 05:34 AM
What's the purpose of the resistor...Is it to only keep the CEL off, or does it affect anything performance wise?

If it's CEL only, fuck it.

Basically it just tells the PCM it's still in place, so yeah, no CEL. :rtfm: :jester:

PeteRT
03-18-2008, 10:21 PM
Use a 1/2w 100ohm resistor.

where exactly did you put it?

mtlcafan79
03-18-2008, 10:23 PM
Goes where the solenoid used to plug in on the firewall.

hskr
03-19-2008, 12:07 PM
Yep, goes into the connector for the purge solenoid on the firewall. Or you can cut the connector off and just splice the resistor straight onto the wires.

99BarneyRT
03-19-2008, 02:43 PM
Help me understand this cause I fail to see any reason in removing this stuff. The EVAP canister weighs what, a pound or two max? All the tubing can't add that much to it, although I know ones plastic cause I had a hell of a time routing it with the long tubes. So, why remove it? I see little reason if its weight...considering its own weight.

??

BTLFED R/T
03-19-2008, 03:37 PM
I always wanted to remove it because it cluttered the engine bay. I wasn't to worried about performance gains after awhile.

PeteRT
03-19-2008, 10:09 PM
Help me understand this cause I fail to see any reason in removing this stuff. The EVAP canister weighs what, a pound or two max? All the tubing can't add that much to it, although I know ones plastic cause I had a hell of a time routing it with the long tubes. So, why remove it? I see little reason if its weight...considering its own weight.

??

you're right, it doesnt weigh hardly anything- but while im doing it, im pulling out everything that doesnt weigh hardly anything by itself in effort to save as much poundage as i can. ive even thought about pulling the insulated backing off the carpet. shit, ive even pulled out the extra exhaust hangars, all but one heat shield, the pulley mechanism for the spare tire, etc... im going to pull out the air conditioner and all of its accessories one of these days. got a roll pan to put on, and relocate the battery to behind the axle.

basically what it comes down to is this... ive done just about everything that can be done without revamping my setup or buying a nitrous kit or blower.... weight savings are free.
pete

hskr
03-20-2008, 03:09 AM
Help me understand this cause I fail to see any reason in removing this stuff. The EVAP canister weighs what, a pound or two max? All the tubing can't add that much to it, although I know ones plastic cause I had a hell of a time routing it with the long tubes. So, why remove it? I see little reason if its weight...considering its own weight.

??
IMO, it causes more problems than it's worth. Countless people have posted about getting evap leak codes only to have them go away and not ever really know what caused it. Plus, as mentioned, it just cleans up the engine bay a lot not having all those vacuum hoses in there. And the charcoal canister under the truck probably weighs at least a good 5lbs. Sure it's not much weight, but it helps and cleans up the look.

PeteRT
03-20-2008, 03:35 AM
i thought most of the code problems were usually found on the newer trucks, with the can by the battery?
pete

hskr
03-20-2008, 12:39 PM
Lot fo guys have them, doesn't matter what the model year. I had them with my '99 because of the big tube popping off the canister on the frame rail, others have the small leak code caused by the gas cap. Get rid of the evap crap, and no more worries about evap codes.