Need Some Tips

[johnson150gt]

Anybody Got Some Tips In Getting A Good Hook Up,i Heard That Removeing The Front Sway Bar Helps Alot Is This True.

[Adobedude]

I'm assuming track....No need to hook up on the street....

Slicks, unless you ned to have DOTs for a specific class.

[elliott12@htc.net]

I'm assuming track....No need to hook up on the street....

Yeah cuz nobody is dumb enough to ever race on the street! :jester:

[Adobedude]

Yeah cuz nobody is dumb enough to ever race on the street! :jester:

Agreed...Street racing is for punk ass mother fuckers..

[johnson150gt]

Yes Its On The Track I Dont Street Race,i Have Slicks And Slapper Bars,but I Read Hear Some Wher That The Sway Bar Makes A Diff Is That True.

[Intense RT]

Yes Its On The Track I Dont Street Race,i Have Slicks And Slapper Bars,but I Read Hear Some Wher That The Sway Bar Makes A Diff Is That True.I and others have not noticed a considerable difference when trying it. This is generally true though our trucks don't seem to respond well to it. It has to be worth something, but I think it would need some longer free length/softer rate springs/ 90/10 drag shocks , for example, to show the difference between sway on or off. Our stock springs are kinda short and high rate.

[johnson150gt]

That Brings Up Another ? What Part #s Are You Guys Using For Drag Race Shocks I Still Have The Stock Ones On.

[grapejuice1998]

I and others have not noticed a considerable difference when trying it.

I agree.
It's not worth the trouble.

[Intense RT]

That Brings Up Another ? What Part #s Are You Guys Using For Drag Race Shocks I Still Have The Stock Ones On.You can order a 90/10 or 70/30 front drag shocks for a 70-72 Chevelle/Malibu. They have the correct range of travel and bolt right in. I have the Summit brand 90/10 drag shocks and haven't been to the track with them yet. They seem to be a little slow on rising though. Be aware the Comp engineering shocks are made by the same manufacturer to same spec as Summit's brand shocks. They're just a few dollars more and you're paying for name, silver paint.

If I change these out, I'll be going with Calverts "true 90/10" drag shocks for the front. http://www.calvertracing.com/ Price is still reasonable.

[RawR/T]

Yes Its On The Track I Dont Street Race,i Have Slicks And Slapper Bars,but I Read Hear Some Wher That The Sway Bar Makes A Diff Is That True.

They say it helps in weight transfer. By allowing the suspension to work independently of each other you should keep less rotating mass on the track surface on your launch. Disconnecting your sway bars should be common track practice just like over inflating your front tires to create a smaller contact patch on your front end. Weight transfer is key to a successful and hard launch, and as stated above, a stock suspension isnt doing that. Mono leafs, cal trax and some good shocks will go a long way to getting a good launch. With proper burn out and good track prep too. I watched a video of a guy racing a dakota the other day that his burn out was maybe 5 seconds long. Max. Prolly the reason he spun for a good 10 feet off the line. And he didnt even launch, he basically drove it out of the hole. Could have been a bad pass for em, but looked poor to me in design and setup. Deep staged, no RPM build after opponent was staged, and minimal burn out.

[johnson150gt]

If I Take The Sway Bar Off Will I Be Able To Drive It To The Track Or Will It Be All Over The Place Or Do I Remove It When Im Ther.

[Intense RT]

If I Take The Sway Bar Off Will I Be Able To Drive It To The Track Or Will It Be All Over The Place Or Do I Remove It When Im Ther.Mine drives fine, daily, without it and with the 90/10 drag shocks up being up front. I do have poly control arm bushing which will help handling to a degree. These trucks have stiff and short springs so this is why , I believe, the sway bar removal is not as noticeable. Now if you are a very agressive driver or autocross, I'm sure the sway bar helps considerably. As said before, it has to be worth something, but I would imagine the difference would be more noticeable on a very consistent, dead hooking, vehicle.

[slvr03dakrt]

Well the best improvement I made on my truck was a set of Caltrac bars and rancho oil filled adj rear shocks set to the firmest setting at the track. I'm curently runnning a 2 in lowering block and stock leaf springs in the front I dropped the front sway bar and I am running belltech springs and belltech nitro shocks it hooks very well and have dipped down into the high 1.6's 60' launching on motor. I also run stock 17 in wheels with 325 m&h drag radials set at 18-20 psi

[RawR/T]

Dont take em off if you drive dumb on the streets. I dont know if they have em for the DAK but I know a lot of other models have detachable endlinks for your sway bar. So you can simply take em loose at the track and be good. I would say to drive thru your neighborhood with the sway bar disconnected at low speed and see if you like it that way before removing it and getting rid of it. Not everyone likes the lateral movement the chassis gets cornering without a sway bar.

[Five9Dak]

Typing without CAPSLOCK on is good for a tenth off your 60 foot. :jester:

Seriously though, another thing you can do is remove the rear most spring clamp from the leaf pack. This will allow the leaf to fan out in the rear when torque is applied and drive the axle down. You can also add another clamp on the front half of the leaf. (you're slapper bars probably make this a moot point though.)