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RJ_Hythloday
02-06-2010, 02:58 PM
The Navy has some great bennies, one is that I have 5 different full service auto hobbie shops w/ in 20 miles of my house. Finger and drive on lifts, tools galore.

Only one has a working sandblaster, they have a parts washer, I think I even saw an oven labeled parts washer. Magnaflux?

Some of the parts I'm going to reuse definitely need some clean up.

The spider and lifter retainers? parts washer

flex plate - sb
headers - sb the corroded areas

M1 - no corrosion but the guy painted it not sure he used heat paint - I'm afraid of sb and getting particles in that I can't easily get out. I cleaned the bottom up, I'm considering just the parts cleaner to get the inside carbon build up. car wash to clean it all out, and a fresh coat of paint over top of whats on there.

block and heads - new - wipe down the outside w/ rubbing alchohol first?

I've seen a caliper kit, I'm thinking I could just clean em up on the rotors and a few shots of heat paint?

The original heads, I'm considering cleaning them up and porting them b4 I try to sell, maybe sell them w/ complete let them test the springs? If they do have a magna flux that'd do the trick if I can get paperwork.

stock lifters - trash?

Intense RT
02-06-2010, 03:07 PM
Laquer thinner and brake clean for cleaning oil off block and heads prior to paint. The thinner for cleaning bores, deck, cap mating surface/main bore. The laquer thinner goes a long way to save some money. Lots and lots of white paper towels. Clean the cyl wall until paper towel comes back clean after wiping. Trans fluid helps lift the "debris" out of the crosshatch in the cyl.

Corey
02-06-2010, 04:20 PM
Look up the difference in sand blasting, and glass beading.

Adobedude
02-06-2010, 06:18 PM
I wouldn't sand blast any engine parts...
Sell the heads bare, unmolested.

RJ_Hythloday
02-06-2010, 06:28 PM
I wasn't going to sandblast the heads.

I am going to sandblast some engine brackets, alt/ac powersteering brackets.


I'm not touching the old shortblock

I only want to clean the new shortblock/heads enough to get paint to hold, outside only. Laquer thinner and brake clean sound good. These won't be leaving the garage at home.

motor mounts, there's some corrosion around the rubber, there's like a keeper on one side.

They do have different abrasives for use w/ the sand blaster.

I've been using a chicken picker on the die grinder to clean up lots of corrosion inside the engine bay, wheel wells etc. I'll be using some type of under coat to keep corrosion from coming back.

How about the timing chain cover?

Adobedude
02-06-2010, 06:48 PM
Bead blast the exterior parts like you said....But smooth out the casting marks first.

Carefull on the Laquer thinner...It's nasty stuff. Get a air filter mask and make sure the filters are rated for Laquer thinner. I use thinners and tolulene etc all the time...But I wear a mask.

RJ_Hythloday
02-07-2010, 02:15 AM
Bead blast the exterior parts like you said....But smooth out the casting marks first.

Carefull on the Laquer thinner...It's nasty stuff. Get a air filter mask and make sure the filters are rated for Laquer thinner. I use thinners and tolulene etc all the time...But I wear a mask.

Maybe if I just had the garage door open while I'm using it. My neighbor has a full face mask, maybe I could borrow it and get some filters for laquer thinner.

kota360
02-07-2010, 02:13 PM
Bead blast the M-1 and then wash it really good with hot soapy water, then rise clean. After that, get it powder coated clear. If you can find a machine shop with a sonic cleaner, that works excellent for any internal parts. The block and heads, hot soapy water with degreaser, and then a power washer to rinse clean. Use the thinner just before assembly to make sure everything is nice and oil free clean.

RJ_Hythloday
02-07-2010, 02:25 PM
I'm thinking the old heads would have to be disassembled to clean right?