Custom Rear End Build Progress

[ADakotaRTGuy]

Equals none right now, but I have a part, haha. I am going to use this thread to document the progress. I got the big ford Housing ends. Very nice peices. Still have to find a good doner housing to get this off the ground. I will get some pictures up of the Housing ends a little later.

[BluRT00]

Equals none right now, but I have a part, haha. I am going to use this thread to document the progress. I got the big ford Housing ends. Very nice peices. Still have to find a good doner housing to get this off the ground. I will get some pictures up of the Housing ends a little later.

Not sure on shipping, but on delphi forums Jody Fryer has a parted out R/T. Last I knew he has a complete rear still under the truck. Though best bet is to go hunting locally at the junk yard.

[ADakotaRTGuy]

Not sure on shipping, but on delphi forums Jody Fryer has a parted out R/T. Last I knew he has a complete rear still under the truck. Though best bet is to go hunting locally at the junk yard.

Junkyards want 400 dollars for that shit, fuck that. I found just the housing for 150 on ebay, but shipping is another 100.

[BluRT00]

Junkyards want 400 dollars for that shit, fuck that. I found just the housing for 150 on ebay, but shipping is another 100.

Shipping will be a killer cause of the size of the rear end. Either way your gonna have a tender rear when you find the rear end you want.

[got_torque]

What are you gonna do for the speedometer?

[ADakotaRTGuy]

What are you gonna do for the speedometer?

That is in the rear end right? I am only doing new ends so everythign should stay the same if the only sensor is in the diff cover area.

[BluRT00]

That is in the rear end right? I am only doing new ends so everythign should stay the same if the only sensor is in the diff cover area.

Sensor is in the diff area, the teeth the sensor reads off of is on the ring gear. Your golden!

[ADakotaRTGuy]

Sensor is in the diff area, the teeth the sensor reads off of is on the ring gear. Your golden!

That is good, because that had me worried for about 10 minutes, haha. Just need to find a good donor housing, so every check your local craigslist. haha. :jester:

[got_torque]

Oh ok I gotcha. I thought you were going with a whole ford 9.

[ADakotaRTGuy]

Oh ok I gotcha. I thought you were going with a whole ford 9.

Nope, would cause to many problems. New U joints, have to figure out a speed sensor, shock mounts, leaf mounts or coilovers, way to many issues with going full custom and still being able to run on the street with all the "stuff" working right.

[2dakotas]

So, what exactly are you going to do overall. 9" housing ends rather than c-clip elim (which I strongly agree with). New posi? Axles? Welding the axle tubes? Girdle? That's about all guys do to Ford 8.8 rearends, and they are running 8's with them. Hopefully our 9.25 will be just as strong with the same mods.

[ADakotaRTGuy]

So, what exactly are you going to do overall. 9" housing ends rather than c-clip elim (which I strongly agree with). New posi? Axles? Welding the axle tubes? Girdle? That's about all guys do to Ford 8.8 rearends, and they are running 8's with them. Hopefully our 9.25 will be just as strong with the same mods.

I am putting new big Ford Ends on our housing. Then the Tornino disk Brakes. Moser upgraded axles, good for 700 hp I think he said.

There are no C clip eliminators for our axles, thus the reason I have to do all this crazyness. I am not doing any type of locker just yet, but who knows. Really dependent on if I get a ticket to pinks or not. If I don't I am going to take my time with all of this since I really don't have to meet any kind of deadline.

[ADakotaRTGuy]

So, what exactly are you going to do overall. 9" housing ends rather than c-clip elim (which I strongly agree with). New posi? Axles? Welding the axle tubes? Girdle? That's about all guys do to Ford 8.8 rearends, and they are running 8's with them. Hopefully our 9.25 will be just as strong with the same mods.

Also, no need to have C clips anymore cause the Big Ford ends will provide the positive axle retention that NHRA requires.

[2dakotas]

Ya, I am familiar with the 9" housing ends because I was going to do that when I planned out building the rearend in the Stang I had, but I traded it off before I ever built it up. I wasn't too concerned though because I didn't really think I was going to break a 31 spline Moser axle, and even I had, the rear disc should have held it in place.

You might also want to look into welding up the axle tubes to the center section of the housing to prevent twisting. I haven't even looked that closely at the rearend in my RT, but I assume that the axle tubes are pressed and spot welded into the center section like a 8.8 Ford. If they are, it would be a good idea to get them welded up in a jig to make sure they are straight and to keep them from twisting. DTS can do that service.

[ADakotaRTGuy]

Ya, I am familiar with the 9" housing ends because I was going to do that when I planned out building the rearend in the Stang I had, but I traded it off before I ever built it up. I wasn't too concerned though because I didn't really think I was going to break a 31 spline Moser axle, and even I had, the rear disc should have held it in place.

You might also want to look into welding up the axle tubes to the center section of the housing to prevent twisting. I haven't even looked that closely at the rearend in my RT, but I assume that the axle tubes are pressed and spot welded into the center section like a 8.8 Ford. If they are, it would be a good idea to get them welded up in a jig to make sure they are straight and to keep them from twisting. DTS can do that service.

If I do everything it will be local, DTS is in Michigan right? To far to ship and ship back. I am looking at these guys.

http://autofabcart.net/

[bad360rt]

Definitely keeping an eye on this, since I still don't know which way I want to go with the rear.

[blackrt32]

i got a rear from a 2000 that i could sell you i am from Maine pm me and shipping should be that bad

[ADakotaRTGuy]

i got a rear from a 2000 that i could sell you i am from Maine pm me and shipping should be that bad

PMd you.

[ADakotaRTGuy]

Pictures of the Big Ford Ends.

Just need a good Housing to weld them on too now.

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d197/Davidsalazar03/Truck/CIMG2370.jpg

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d197/Davidsalazar03/Truck/CIMG2371.jpg

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d197/Davidsalazar03/Truck/CIMG2372.jpg

[ADakotaRTGuy]

Well I talked to the guy building my cage and he has the proper jig or stand, or whatever the hell you call it to narrow the rear end. So once I find a good housing I will scoop it up and weld the ends up.

Questions. What else besides the bearing will I need to mount the axles? Once I weld these on can I just not put the C clips on anymore and be good? Or will those have to stay in regardless?

[2dakotas]

Questions. What else besides the bearing will I need to mount the axles? Once I weld these on can I just not put the C clips on anymore and be good? Or will those have to stay in regardless?

You will need some sort of retainer to bolt to the 9" housing end. You will need a retainer plate for the large bearing ends. I don't know if the 9.25 Dakota axles have a hole in the flange, but you will need one to be able to get a socket in there to tighten the axle to the housing. I am sure some modifications will have to be made to the brakes if you keep your disc or change to drums. Drums would probably require less modifications. If I was you, I will say it again and again, I would have the housing straightened and axle tubes welded while you were at it because after the housing ends are welded on, you can't straighten it at that point.

I of coarse haven't done this swap on a Dakota, but I researched it alot when I had my Stang.

[ADakotaRTGuy]

You will need some sort of retainer to bolt to the 9" housing end. You will need a retainer plate for the large bearing ends. I don't know if the 9.25 Dakota axles have a hole in the flange, but you will need one to be able to get a socket in there to tighten the axle to the housing. I am sure some modifications will have to be made to the brakes if you keep your disc or change to drums. Drums would probably require less modifications. If I was you, I will say it again and again, I would have the housing straightened and axle tubes welded while you were at it because after the housing ends are welded on, you can't straighten it at that point.

I of coarse haven't done this swap on a Dakota, but I researched it alot when I had my Stang.

The whole end will be ford. Will use the backing plate and brakes from Moser. They will custom make the rotors and axles since it has to be 6x4.5.

I will look at the getting the tubes welded before I get those ends welded on. I am sure the guy knows what he is doing. Thanks.

[Five9Dak]

For other people looking for axle parts (not related to c-clip elimination.) I found out yesterday that superior-gear.com sells upgraded axles for the 9.25.

[bttlefed]

For other people looking for axle parts (not related to c-clip elimination.) I found out yesterday that superior-gear.com sells upgraded axles for the 9.25.

That is a bicycle website...

[ADakotaRTGuy]

For other people looking for axle parts (not related to c-clip elimination.) I found out yesterday that superior-gear.com sells upgraded axles for the 9.25.

Is this what you meant?

http://www.superioraxlegear.com/

They also sell a 4.11 gear for the 9.25

[ADakotaRTGuy]

Well I talked the the guy building my roll bar, which he got a little crazy on and he has everything to build the whole rear end for me. Going to try and find a donor housing to get started on it. He is going to ensure the tubes are straight first then weld the tubes. Then cut off the ends and weld up the new ends. Still not going to go very fast though. See if I can't find a housing in the next couple weeks and go from there. He even has the tools to measure up the new axles to the T, which is comforting cause that is one of the things that worried me.

[Sick 660r]

I have a feeling I will be copying alot of the stuff you do or atleast I'll go to the same guy. Hope you dont mind lol Can he do a four link and what about a coilover front end?

[ADakotaRTGuy]

I have a feeling I will be copying alot of the stuff you do or atleast I'll go to the same guy. Hope you dont mind lol Can he do a four link and what about a coilover front end?

I can give you his number and you can talk to him if you want. But if he can't I am sure his buddy can.

[Sick 660r]

I can give you his number and you can talk to him if you want. But if he can't I am sure his buddy can.

im in no position to do anything now. Ill see how your stuff turns out and give him a call down the road. ETA on the truck?

[ADakotaRTGuy]

im in no position to do anything now. Ill see how your stuff turns out and give him a call down the road. ETA on the truck?

Roll bar should be done this week or early next week. Rear end will be a long time.

[ADakotaRTGuy]

Well I finally got a donor axle, went to the local pick a parts and cursed, sweat, and bled to get it out. Its a 3.55 but all of that shit is coming out anyway. Watching a set of 4.10's but if that falls through I will go back to the stock 3.92's. Great thing about this is I will be able to fit 15" wheels again and still have disk breaks. I also ordered up a Comp Eng 4 link kit from Summit for 190 shipped. Have to open up the holes a tad since are tubes are 3.5 vs 3" for the kit. I am going to put the 4 link on the outside of the frame rails and get rid of the leaf springs. Guy that did the roll bar is doing this also. Going to cut off the ends as soon as I can find the over hang for the axles the slide on the bracket for 4 link. Next will be the Detroit Trutrac, decided to go against the Locker just for the sheer fact that I drive it on the street alot. Coil overs will probably be either Comp Eng or the QA1's, have not decided that yet, but probably go with QA1's.

[Sick 660r]

cant wait. Make sure you post picks!

[ADakotaRTGuy]

cant wait. Make sure you post picks!

I refuse to get pictures :finger:

[Aves]

Just out of curosity why staying with the stock axle if you are going to fab up a 4-link? Wouldn't it be good time to upgrade to a axle that doesn't use c-clips?

Troy

[ADakotaRTGuy]

Just out of curosity why staying with the stock axle if you are going to fab up a 4-link? Wouldn't it be good time to upgrade to a axle that doesn't use c-clips?

Troy

Its all in the first part of the thread. I will be losing the C clips. I am putting Big Ford Housing ends from Moser, which will have the positive retention needed in them. I will no longer need the C clips. With that will be the Torino Brake kit from Moser also with Custom Axles. I could easily at this point change to a 5x4.5 lug pattern, but I am not losing out on my CCW's.

Another reason to keep this axle is to be able to keep my ABS and my speed sensor that is on the pumpkin. Keeps everything working well together.

[ADakotaRTGuy]

Called qa1 and got some recommendations from them for the axle weight of 1600lbs for the rear. For a 10in compressed mounting distance I would get teh 3955P with a 7 in spring at 450 lbs/in deflection rate if I went a little longer shock with a 12 in mounting point I would be able to go with a 9in spring and a 350 lbs/in deflection rate. So the key is to get a longer shock. I might just go ahead and order the shock mounts and weld those up to the new axle to see what distance I can get out of them and go with the longest shock I can get on there.

[ADakotaRTGuy]

Oh and the whole truck weighed in at 4080lbs.

[wyotech_cuda440]

Called qa1 and got some recommendations from them for the axle weight of 1600lbs for the rear. For a 10in compressed mounting distance I would get teh 3955P with a 7 in spring at 450 lbs/in deflection rate if I went a little longer shock with a 12 in mounting point I would be able to go with a 9in spring and a 350 lbs/in deflection rate. So the key is to get a longer shock. I might just go ahead and order the shock mounts and weld those up to the new axle to see what distance I can get out of them and go with the longest shock I can get on there.

Are those specs based on a vertically mounted shock? You can angle the shocks to the front or rear without affecting axle-wrap if you are running a four-link. Then you can fit a longer shock to help tune the ride for the street or strip. But if you run an angled shock setup, the shocks and springs will act softer than they really are, so QA1 would need to know what degree you want to mount them. Personnaly, I would angle them 10-15 degrees back to help control the up-down motion as well as the rearward swing as a 4-link compresses, helping to push down on the tires.

[ADakotaRTGuy]

Are those specs based on a vertically mounted shock? You can angle the shocks to the front or rear without affecting axle-wrap if you are running a four-link. Then you can fit a longer shock to help tune the ride for the street or strip. But if you run an angled shock setup, the shocks and springs will act softer than they really are, so QA1 would need to know what degree you want to mount them. Personnaly, I would angle them 10-15 degrees back to help control the up-down motion as well as the rearward swing as a 4-link compresses, helping to push down on the tires.

They recommended to go vertical. If I go with the bottom mounting point lower then the axle like the cal tracs are right now I can get a 13 in shock on it right now and go with about a 10 in spring. That would be ideal I think.

[ADakotaRTGuy]

Had the read end housings welded to the pumpkin. Finally got the 4 link in the mail yesterday so now he can cut off the ends and weld on the Big Ford Ends. Should have all that done tomorrow.

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d197/Davidsalazar03/Truck/RearEnd.jpg

[Sick 660r]

Had the read end housings welded to the pumpkin. Finally got the 4 link in the mail yesterday so now he can cut off the ends and weld on the Big Ford Ends. Should have all that done tomorrow.

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d197/Davidsalazar03/Truck/RearEnd.jpg

looking good. How much is he charging you for this? Eventually I will need to have it done. I forget but what are you doing for rear brakes again?

[ADakotaRTGuy]

looking good. How much is he charging you for this? Eventually I will need to have it done. I forget but what are you doing for rear brakes again?

Either this:

http://www.moserengineering.com/brakes/torino-new-style-ford-2-50-offset-2.html

Or this:

http://www.moserengineering.com/brakes/torino-housing-ends-w-2-5-hangout.html

He is charging 300 for the housing ends and welding the axle tubes. We will see with the rest.

[ADakotaRTGuy]

He got the axle ends cut off and was opening up the holes on the 4 link brackets since they are made for 3" and ours are 3.5 inch, could not find a bracket that was 3.5" already. Should weld those on tomorrow and then I have to find a new Detroit Tru-trac, install kit, axles, brakes, coilovers, coilover brackets, ahhhh what did I get myself into.

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d197/Davidsalazar03/Truck/AxleEnd.jpg

[Sick 660r]

He got the axle ends cut off and was opening up the holes on the 4 link brackets since they are made for 3" and ours are 3.5 inch, could not find a bracket that was 3.5" already. Should weld those on tomorrow and then I have to find a new Detroit Tru-trac, install kit, axles, brakes, coilovers, coilover brackets, ahhhh what did I get myself into.
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d197/Davidsalazar03/Truck/AxleEnd.jpg

:jester: I've said that a few times. How do you think those brakes would hold up for daily use?

[ADakotaRTGuy]

:jester: I've said that a few times. How do you think those brakes would hold up for daily use?

Which ones? I think the wilwood ones might not be good for daily use, but the torino ones might work just fine for daily use as they are intended for that and are vented vs being solid.

[ADakotaRTGuy]

Well the housing and everything is done. Just need to add the shock mounts now. Other than that it's really just buying everything and bolting it on. Might be a while though, unless I sell my bike. We will see. The big big piece is the differential. I have the gears already so it would just be bolting on the axles and brakes after installing the "guts".

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d197/Davidsalazar03/Truck/CIMG2432.jpg

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d197/Davidsalazar03/Truck/CIMG2433.jpg

[ADakotaRTGuy]

One thing I wanted to not about our axles, these things are thick as hell. I did not measure them, but they are about 3/8 to a 1/2 thick.

[BluRT00]

Top notch work! Your doing us CC racers proud. :biggthumpup:

[ADakotaRTGuy]

Top notch work! Your doing us CC racers proud. :biggthumpup:

Thanks, telling people I found a great fabricator locally, surprised no one has used him yet. He will just finish up the 4 link and then I will run out of work for him, haha.

[ChrisR/T]

That is good, because that had me worried for about 10 minutes, haha. Just need to find a good donor housing, so every check your local craigslist. haha. :jester:

If you're doing new ends, check on Ram's and 4x4 Dakota's. Most of them had 9.25 axles.

The ram uses a different axle/bolt-pattern (Capt. Obvious) however, the center section is still the same.

[ADakotaRTGuy]

If you're doing new ends, check on Ram's and 4x4 Dakota's. Most of them had 9.25 axles.

The ram uses a different axle/bolt-pattern (Capt. Obvious) however, the center section is still the same.

Already have the new axle and everything, you did not get to far in the thread, haha.

[Sick 660r]

what are you doing about the sway bar?

[ADakotaRTGuy]

what are you doing about the sway bar?

Sway bar? What sway bar?

[Sick 660r]

Sway bar? What sway bar?

I dont exactly know much about 4 link systems... I guess you dont need one or are you just not going to have one?

[ADakotaRTGuy]

I dont exactly know much about 4 link systems... I guess you dont need one or are you just not going to have one?

I am sure you can use it but I have not had one for a few months already.

[ADakotaRTGuy]

More pictures from his Facebook page

http://www.facebook.com/home.php?#!/photo.php?pid=3761379&id=209406623389&fbid=387318678389

[DjWolf37]

sweet pics man, cant wait to see it installed

[ADakotaRTGuy]

sweet pics man, cant wait to see it installed

Yea so do I, but I need to get some cash first. Not in to big a hurry to go in debt over it.

[ADakotaRTGuy]

Holy Crap I keep finding gold mines in local builders.

I just talked to a local guy that's been building rear ends since 77(longer than I have been alive). He says he can install the gears and differential for 150 bucks, WTF? Closest one to him before that was 375 and I was skeptical on what they could actually do for me.

On top of that he is a Moser dealer, so he can measure everything and order all the right parts for me at the same damn cost and he gets a little cut.

Bike is being sold tomorrow, guy already put a deposit down so I should be able to finish this shizzle pretty damn quickly now. FUCK YES.

[Adobedude]

"...77 (longer than I have been alive..."

Punk

[ADakotaRTGuy]

"...77 (longer than I have been alive..."

Punk

Haha, Whats wrong old man?

[DjWolf37]

nice find man, i found something very simmilar in SOMD and one in NOVA. Are you still going to sell you stock axle and brakes once this one gets done?

[BluRT00]

Haha, Whats wrong old man?

He's angry about his DA, that's why he hates on you. :jester:

[ADakotaRTGuy]

nice find man, i found something very simmilar in SOMD and one in NOVA. Are you still going to sell you stock axle and brakes once this one gets done?

Yes I am, are you still going to buy it? Should be able to sell it the second week of May. Only thing I need to keep is the cover since it cost about 120 bucks to replace.

[ADakotaRTGuy]

BIKE IS SOLD, so its go time on this rear end. WHOOHOOO

[Adobedude]

Haha, Whats wrong old man?

Glad I'm old....

Everytime I see the trillion bazillion dollar deficit I say thank fucking God I'm damn near outta here.

But I could still out tree you..... :nana:

[BluRT00]

Glad I'm old....

Everytime I see the trillion bazillion dollar deficit I say thank fucking God I'm damn near outta here.

But I could still out tree you..... :nana:

Yeah you might out tree him, but that big ol CC would freight train by you at the 330 mark. :jester:

[DjWolf37]

Yes I am, are you still going to buy it? Should be able to sell it the second week of May. Only thing I need to keep is the cover since it cost about 120 bucks to replace.
yep still intrested, i have a couple of covers so thats no problem. just let me know.

[ADakotaRTGuy]

Glad I'm old....

Everytime I see the trillion bazillion dollar deficit I say thank fucking God I'm damn near outta here.

But I could still out tree you..... :nana:\

I think I can hold my own, remember as you get older your reflexes start to go, ahha

.000, .039, .090, all on the same day. So bring it, cause even if you tree me I will still outrun your old ass, hahah, Might be time to man up and spray that shit.


http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d197/Davidsalazar03/Scan0001-1.jpg

[Adobedude]

.000

:hail: :hail: :hail:

[Electrical Tech]

I run a Ford 9" rear end in my 4X4 Dakota and custom installed a speed sensor so It can be done. The 9.25 and the Ford 8.8" reluctor ring have the same number of teeth 108 and can be machined to fit over a Ford 9" rear carrier. I am removing the Full spool with ring and putting the open carrier back in for streetability. The truck does not go offroad as much as we planned so for tires sake the open carrier is going back. For my 2WD Dakota with the NV4500 and 408 I am working on a Mopar 8 3/4 to replace my stock one. I did install a Wilwood disc brake setup on the Ford 9" and have issues with rear brakes. Most likely a adjustable proportioning valve will work but Wilwood has no tech support for advice. Newer Dana 60's from the 3/4 ton rear ends do have speed sensors and could be used as a replacement if shortened. I believe that DTS has a setup for Dakota R/T's using just that.

Mike,

[ADakotaRTGuy]

Man, where were you 5 months ago, haha. That is good to know. So are you using the Mopar Sensor just stuffed into the Ford Rear??

[Electrical Tech]

The sensor is the same Ford or Dodge and all they are are magnetic pickups that send a small AC signal to the PCM. First we used a stock sensor removed the mounting tab and ran a die down the body of it so it could thread into the hole I tapped in the rear end. For the Mopar I will use a better speed sensor and drill a smaller hole for a tighter fit. Using the Dana 60 requires a little math for calibrating the speed due to different number of teeth on the ring. I will let you guys know when I get the Mopar 8 3/4 done as the track widths are closer to the Stock Dakota rear end. E-Body mopars are about 2" narrower and use a 5 on 4.5 bolt pattern for more rim choices.

Mike,

[ADakotaRTGuy]

The sensor is the same Ford or Dodge and all they are are magnetic pickups that send a small AC signal to the PCM. First we used a stock sensor removed the mounting tab and ran a die down the body of it so it could thread into the hole I tapped in the rear end. For the Mopar I will use a better speed sensor and drill a smaller hole for a tighter fit. Using the Dana 60 requires a little math for calibrating the speed due to different number of teeth on the ring. I will let you guys know when I get the Mopar 8 3/4 done as the track widths are closer to the Stock Dakota rear end. E-Body mopars are about 2" narrower and use a 5 on 4.5 bolt pattern for more rim choices.

Mike,

You got any pictures of this stuff? Never had my hands on any of those rears, haha.

[Sick 660r]

so did you ever shorten the rear? I remember you talking about it but did you follow through with it?

[ADakotaRTGuy]

so did you ever shorten the rear? I remember you talking about it but did you follow through with it?

Its a little bit narrower. Maybe a half inch on each side. Not a lot. You can see the complted pictures on the previous page.

On that note I dropped off the housing and all the stuff is on order minus the coilovers because I need the height for the shocks and I can't do that till I get the top mount in.

I did get the true trac in today though.

[Sick 660r]

Its a little bit narrower. Maybe a half inch on each side. Not a lot. You can see the complted pictures on the previous page.

On that note I dropped off the housing and all the stuff is on order minus the coilovers because I need the height for the shocks and I can't do that till I get the top mount in.

I did get the true trac in today though.

bump! you sold the bike so why isnt this done???

[ADakotaRTGuy]

bump! you sold the bike so why isnt this done???

Because custom axles take time to get made. Everything is ordered, axles, brakes. I already have the Detroit Trutrac, gears, and install kit. Going to be using 7855P Coilovers with 14-150 springs all from QA-1 (375 plus shipping). Eyehole to Eyehole distance was 15 1/2 inches, ride height will remain the same. Should be done within the next couple weeks.

[Sick 660r]

Because custom axles take time to get made. Everything is ordered, axles, brakes. I already have the Detroit Trutrac, gears, and install kit. Going to be using 7855P Coilovers with 14-150 springs all from QA-1 (375 plus shipping). Eyehole to Eyehole distance was 15 1/2 inches, ride height will remain the same. Should be done within the next couple weeks.

lol just giving you a hard time.

[ADakotaRTGuy]

lol just giving you a hard time.

Yea I know. haha

[Sick 660r]

is this what you went with?
http://www.moserengineering.com/axles/custom-alloy-axles/custom-alloy-31-spline-axles.html

[ADakotaRTGuy]

is this what you went with?
http://www.moserengineering.com/axles/custom-alloy-axles/custom-alloy-31-spline-axles.html

Yea roger.

[Sick 660r]

Yea roger.

did you consider these? Were they just overkill for you or would they not work for some reason?
http://www.moserengineering.com/axles/extreme-custom-alloy-axles/custom-alloy-31-spline-axles.html

[ADakotaRTGuy]

did you consider these? Were they just overkill for you or would they not work for some reason?
http://www.moserengineering.com/axles/extreme-custom-alloy-axles/custom-alloy-31-spline-axles.html

Didn't even look at them. Do they even make them in 31?

[Sick 660r]

Didn't even look at them. Do they even make them in 31?

"The Moser Extreme can be splined to fit any manufacture’s spool and carriers a standard 10 year limited replacement policy."

I guess so. Thats why I asked if there was a reason you didnt go with those. Didnt know if there was an issue making them work for your setup.

[ADakotaRTGuy]

"The Moser Extreme can be splined to fit any manufacture’s spool and carriers a standard 10 year limited replacement policy."

I guess so. Thats why I asked if there was a reason you didnt go with those. Didnt know if there was an issue making them work for your setup.

Did not even look at them. I wonder what the HP level is for the standard axles.

[Sick 660r]

Did not even look at them. I wonder what the HP level is for the standard axles.

Im wondering the same thing. I thought you mentioned the true track taking 1000+ and the axles around 700?

[ADakotaRTGuy]

Im wondering the same thing. I thought you mentioned the true track taking 1000+ and the axles around 700?

Never check on the axles. Eaton did say the Trutrac would take over a 1000 though.

[Sick 660r]

Never check on the axles. Eaton did say the Trutrac would take over a 1000 though.

Thats good to know.

Im thinking about knocking out one of the three needed mods this summer. Roll bar, box frame & 4 link, or build the rear. Im trying to hit the track friday so I guess that will determine which one I choose.

[bad360rt]

Im trying to hit the track friday so I guess that will determine which one I choose.

Vids or don't come back!!! :jester:

[Sick 660r]

Vids or don't come back!!! :jester:

:jester: I already have some in cab vids but my computer wont recognize the file

[ADakotaRTGuy]

:jester: I already have some in cab vids but my computer wont recognize the file

What format is it?

[Sick 660r]

What format is it?

Not sure. Ill take a look at it when I get home. Weird thing is it worked for the one video in the driveway but now it wont.

[ADakotaRTGuy]

Not sure. Ill take a look at it when I get home. Weird thing is it worked for the one video in the driveway but now it wont.

What camera?

[Sick 660r]

What camera?

canon powershot SX20 IS

[ADakotaRTGuy]

canon powershot SX20 IS

the SX20 IS compresses its video using the modern H.264 format and encodes audio as Linear PCM at 16 bit / 44.1KHz, then stores the result in a QuickTime MOV wrapper

Should load right up to Youtube.

[Sick 660r]

the SX20 IS compresses its video using the modern H.264 format and encodes audio as Linear PCM at 16 bit / 44.1KHz, then stores the result in a QuickTime MOV wrapper

Should load right up to Youtube.

I didnt try youtube because I wasnt able to watch it on my computer. With the other videos I was able to watch them but not the recent ones.

[ADakotaRTGuy]

I didnt try youtube because I wasnt able to watch it on my computer. With the other videos I was able to watch them but not the recent ones.

Try opening it with Itunes?

[Sick 660r]

Try opening it with Itunes?

screw Itunes. Last time I had Itunes it crashed and took a bunch of stuff with it.

[ADakotaRTGuy]

screw Itunes. Last time I had Itunes it crashed and took a bunch of stuff with it.

That sucks, you can get the flip video program, that records in MOV format. Its free too.

[Sick 660r]

That sucks, you can get the flip video program, that records in MOV format. Its free too.

I just looked on my youtube account and the video is MVI format.

[ADakotaRTGuy]

I just looked on my youtube account and the video is MVI format.

Damn you internet for being wrong, I don't even know what format that is.

[Sick 660r]

Damn you internet for being wrong, I don't even know what format that is.

hell if I know. I dont understand any of this stuff.

[Sick 660r]

so what purpose does this speed sensor have other then your speedometer? If I had aftermarket gauges then I could probably use the speed sensor in the t56. That would allow me to go with a ford 9".

[ADakotaRTGuy]

so what purpose does this speed sensor have other then your speedometer? If I had aftermarket gauges then I could probably use the speed sensor in the t56. That would allow me to go with a ford 9".

Controls the ABS also.

[Sick 660r]

not sure what your grand total for the rear is but DTS wants 3650 for a dana 60 with a detroit true track or locker, richmond gears of your choice, 11" willwood brake setup including parking brake and stock lug pattern. This is rated for 1000hp and has a 1 year unlimited warranty and 10 year on the axles. All you would have needed was your 4 link. The suggested the dana 60 over the 9" becasue it can work with the stock sensor, uses less power and rated for higher hp.

[Sick 660r]

Im sure it wold be quite a bit less if you didnt want the 1000 hp rating.

[ADakotaRTGuy]

not sure what your grand total for the rear is but DTS wants 3650 for a dana 60 with a detroit true track or locker, richmond gears of your choice, 11" willwood brake setup including parking brake and stock lug pattern. This is rated for 1000hp and has a 1 year unlimited warranty and 10 year on the axles. All you would have needed was your 4 link. The suggested the dana 60 over the 9" becasue it can work with the stock sensor, uses less power and rated for higher hp.

If I just did the 4 link with the stock axle it would of been under 1400 total including labor and installation.

For the rear end, including axles, brakes, Detroit, was a little over 2300 including the shipping and labor. So I saved about 1300 dollars doing it this way, even with the labor involved. Does that include shipping also?

Talked to Moser and they said the regular axles are good for about 600 HP. Maybe should of gone for the others, but oh well.

Take away selling the hotchis, caltracs, shocks and stock rear end. its a about a 1300 total. So all in all I am still not doing to bad.

[ADakotaRTGuy]

Thanks for everyone that is telling me that I can use the Speed Sensor and other shit with other axles now that I invested all this money. Where the hell was everyone when I was asking the questions. Either way I am saving money and confident that it will work quite well.

[ADakotaRTGuy]

If you did the same thing, keeping the leafs and using what you had now it would run about 1365 including labor and the parts you needed.

Ends - 105
Install kit - 110 (have to gut the rear end to weld it)
Axles/Brakes - 700
Labor - 450 (Cutting off/welding ends, Welding tubes, installing new bearings in the rear, installing axles and brakes)

Sorry I keep changing it because I had some of the 4 link labor in it already.

[ADakotaRTGuy]

Now you have me doing all this math, haha.

So if you add in the trutrac to the axle about its total would be 1800 to have the axles set up including axles, brakes, diff. So about half the cost. If you did some of the labor yourself, it would save some money also.

If you went with the upgraded axles and locker it would add about 250 bucks, so 2050 and you have an axle that will hold over a 1000hp, based on the rating of the detroit and axles. The only other point of failure would be the gears, not sure what they can hold anyway.

However the hidden cost. If you change the rear end to a different style you have to add in cost of a new driveshaft and the u joints or whatever you need for it. Don't need that with this axle, everything will bolt right back up.

Do I sacrifice some weight? Sure, but I save a shit load of coin.

[Sick 660r]

DTS said the spline count on the true track will not hold the 1000 mark in our situation or in the 9". You also have to think about the ujoints being able to handle that amount as well and I doubt the stock or stock size will.

I never even understand half this stuff until you made this thread lol Im just throwing some other options out there.

I would also be able to sell the 9.25 with the true track and 4.56's along with the hotchkis so the price wont be as harsh. Im really gald I didnt do the viper brakes in the back.

Only reason I keep bringing up the 1000hp is because im just planning on whatever I can make with the R3:D. Tranny would be at the breaking point then but a mclode twin disk and liberty 1-4 faceplating should fix that.

[ADakotaRTGuy]

DTS said the spline count on the true track will not hold the 1000 mark in our situation or in the 9". You also have to think about the ujoints being able to handle that amount as well and I doubt the stock or stock size will.

I never even understood half this stuff until you made this thread lol Im just throwing some other options out there.

I would also be able to sell the 9.25 with the true track and 4.56's along with the hotchkis so the price wont be as harsh.

Only reason I keep bringing up the 1000hp is because im just planning on whatever I can make with the R3:D. Tranny would be at the breaking point then but a mclode twin disk and liberty 1-4 faceplating should fix that.

I would have to call and see what Moser would say about the upgraded axles. They said for the 31 spline regular it would hold 600, so I am guessing at least 800 for the other axles, at which point it gets to damn expensive and dedicated to try and go past the 10.0 mark. Safety at that point is out of this world. The U joints have not had any problems for me so far, only people I have heard breaking them are the manual guys, so knock on wood they keep working for me.

[ADakotaRTGuy]

There is a good donor, depending on how much it was narrowed.

http://baltimore.craigslist.org/pts/1716110070.html

[ADakotaRTGuy]

Even better,

http://smd.craigslist.org/pts/1724839218.html

[mtlcafan79]

Only reason I keep bringing up the 1000hp is because im just planning on whatever I can make with the R3:D. Tranny would be at the breaking point then but a mclode twin disk and liberty 1-4 faceplating should fix that.

I was told you can have a race car that runs on the street, or a street car that you race. Can't have both. IMHO you are at that fork in the road. I would honestly make it full drag with a 727 before I went through that mess with the T56. You're slowly draining the street manners out of it.

[Sick 660r]

I was told you can have a race car that runs on the street, or a street car that you race. Can't have both. IMHO you are at that fork in the road. I would honestly make it full drag with a 727 before I went through that mess with the T56. You're slowly draining the street manners out of it.

Ill keep it as long as I can. Autos are just so boring after driving with the manual.

[ADakotaRTGuy]

Coilover Mounts eyelet to eyelet distance is 15.5 inches, perfect for a set of 7855P QA1 Coilovers.

I think its pretty neat how he did it. Cut a hole in the frame and welded it into the frame, defiantly strong to support the weight back there.

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d197/Davidsalazar03/Truck/2010-05-14140156.jpg

[ADakotaRTGuy]

Ill keep it as long as I can. Autos are just so boring after driving with the manual.

Manual valve body, best of both worlds.

[Last_in]

Ill keep it as long as I can. Autos are just so boring after driving with the manual.

Down the road in the future, if you ever for some reason decide to go auto. I'm talking like a year from now or even ten years from now. I would be happy to take the t-56 kit off your hands, just drop me a message if you ever want to sell it.

[mtlcafan79]

Manual valve body, best of both worlds.

Zzzt, wrong! That's not the same as having a third pedal.

[mtlcafan79]

Ill keep it as long as I can. Autos are just so boring after driving with the manual.

I see it did wonders for your track times! :D Need more practice with launch rpms, how you bring in the throttle, clutch application, etc. TKO truck on street tires is way more fun at the track than my 408 on slicks was. 408 was just point and shoot. TKO has your hands and feet full trying to keep up with it.

[ADakotaRTGuy]

Zzzt, wrong! That's not the same as having a third pedal.

Ah, that pedal just adds time.

[mtlcafan79]

But flopping a shifter back and forth with no control of how that converter flashes isn't the same as me being able to drop the clutch at any rpm desired.

[ADakotaRTGuy]

True, to each his own. I will stay boring and worry about the other things going on.

[GrimRT]

I see it did wonders for your track times! :D Need more practice with launch rpms, how you bring in the throttle, clutch application, etc. TKO truck on street tires is way more fun at the track than my 408 on slicks was. 408 was just point and shoot. TKO has your hands and feet full trying to keep up with it.

Its all fun and games until someone loses their feet.....using a tko at the track without a shield is just asking for trouble, especially when making big power.

[Sick 660r]

Its all fun and games until someone loses their feet.....using a tko at the track without a shield is just asking for trouble, especially when making big power.

did you ever look into this? I was thinking about ordering a blanket but im not sure if a basic universal on will work.

[GrimRT]

did you ever look into this? I was thinking about ordering a blanket but im not sure if a basic universal on will work.

No I never did.

[mtlcafan79]

Its all fun and games until someone loses their feet.....using a tko at the track without a shield is just asking for trouble, especially when making big power.

One of several reasons I gave up stick racing with sticky tires.

[Electrical Tech]

Here are some pictures of the Full spool with speed gear attached.

3129

3130

3131

[ADakotaRTGuy]

YOu have any of the actual sensor mount?

[Electrical Tech]

No actual mount, threaded the plastic sensor and tapped a hole into the center section. Not the best way to do it and I will use a different sensor on the next one. I am still waiting for my Mopar 8 3/4 ring to come back machined and then I will try a couple of different mounting methods.

Mike,

[Sick 660r]

Can you change ride height with your setup? If so, whats involved with doing it?

[ADakotaRTGuy]

Can you change ride height with your setup? If so, whats involved with doing it?

Coilover so a few turns or the adjustable height shock mounts from qa1

[Sick 660r]

Coilover so a few turns or the adjustable height shock mounts from qa1

thats what I thought. Would that throw off the alignment of things? Like do the 4 link bars need to be at a certain angle for best performance?

[ADakotaRTGuy]

thats what I thought. Would that throw off the alignment of things? Like do the 4 link bars need to be at a certain angle for best performance?

It would change the instant center, but not by enough make a huge difference.

[ADakotaRTGuy]

Progress Pictures

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d197/Davidsalazar03/Truck/2a5dd3d4.jpg

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d197/Davidsalazar03/Truck/cf7666ce.jpg

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d197/Davidsalazar03/Truck/b3b235f6.jpg

[BluRT00]

Getting closer! :biggthumpup:

[ADakotaRTGuy]

Getting closer! :biggthumpup:

Very True

[BluRT00]

Very True

Blow off valve came in today. Thank you again. :biggthumpup:

[ADakotaRTGuy]

Blow off valve came in today. Thank you again. :biggthumpup:

Welcome

[Sick 660r]

So sexy. You have no idea how jealous I am lol

[ADakotaRTGuy]

So sexy. You have no idea how jealous I am lol

First see if it was worth it. I still need to order the damn coilovers, I have not had time.

[Sick 660r]

First see if it was worth it. I still need to order the damn coilovers, I have not had time.

It may not be worth it to you seeing how you didnt have serious traction issues but it is a necessity for me.

[ADakotaRTGuy]

It may not be worth it to you seeing how you didnt have serious traction issues but it is a necessity for me.

I did not have traction issues on a Cecil Saturday, I have every other time I have tried to run it though.

[Sick 660r]

I did not have traction issues on a Cecil Saturday, I have every other time I have tried to run it though.

well it should be worth it then, especially with the new setup:biggthumpup:

[ADakotaRTGuy]

More Progress, should be done Wednesday, maybe a track run Wednesday? He also welded the frame joints (where the rear joins the main frame) and took out the spare tire frame.

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d197/Davidsalazar03/Truck/4Link.jpg


http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d197/Davidsalazar03/Truck/4Link1.jpg

[ME111]

Glad to see your making progress and are nearing the end. Seeing as how you're guy has good experience under his belt on these trucks, any chance he'd be willing to do it again and if so...how much would he charge?

[Adobedude]

Do you think it would have been a good idea to box the frame?

Guess not, you didn't do it...LOL

Looking good :biggthumpup:

[ADakotaRTGuy]

Glad to see your making progress and are nearing the end. Seeing as how you're guy has good experience under his belt on these trucks, any chance he'd be willing to do it again and if so...how much would he charge?

He is willing to do anything you want. Can do most of anything really. What did you want to do? I can give you a ballpark for some stuff maybe.

[Sick 660r]

He is willing to do anything you want. Can do most of anything really. What did you want to do? I can give you a ballpark for some stuff maybe.

box frame
4 link inside frame
fuel cell mount.
weld tubs in the bed.

[ADakotaRTGuy]

Do you think it would have been a good idea to box the frame?

Guess not, you didn't do it...LOL

Looking good :biggthumpup:

Did not think I really needed it. He did weld the frame pieces together. Where the rear frame and the front frame mate up by the front leaf spring rivets.

[ADakotaRTGuy]

box frame - no clue
4 link inside frame - Probably about 600
fuel cell mount. - No Clue
weld tubs in the bed - No clue

[ME111]

He is willing to do anything you want. Can do most of anything really. What did you want to do? I can give you a ballpark for some stuff maybe.

Pretty much exactly what you had him do for you. 4link outside the rails, mounts for coilovers, and a panhard bar mount. I haven't started to collect parts for it yet either.

[ADakotaRTGuy]

Pretty much exactly what you had him do for you. 4link outside the rails, mounts for coilovers, and a panhard bar mount. I haven't started to collect parts for it yet either.

Ill ask him.

[ADakotaRTGuy]

box frame - no clue
4 link inside frame - Probably about 600
fuel cell mount. - No Clue
weld tubs in the bed - No clue

Make that about 1200 he said. Wow that was a lot of dough.

[ADakotaRTGuy]

And almost done, ran into a problem with the banjo bolts for the brakes, The moser ones need to be M10x1.5 and the stock ones are M10x1.

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d197/Davidsalazar03/Truck/2010-05-25112057.jpg

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d197/Davidsalazar03/Truck/2010-05-25112043.jpg

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d197/Davidsalazar03/Truck/2010-05-25112027.jpg

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d197/Davidsalazar03/Truck/2010-05-25112019.jpg

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d197/Davidsalazar03/Truck/2010-05-25112009.jpg

[ADakotaRTGuy]

Just about done, need to get that damn Banjo Bolts.

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d197/Davidsalazar03/Truck/4Link2.jpg

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d197/Davidsalazar03/Truck/4Link1-1.jpg

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d197/Davidsalazar03/Truck/4Link-1.jpg

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d197/Davidsalazar03/Truck/4Link3.jpg

[mtlcafan79]

Is he gonna show you how to adjust it for the track? Or is it set it and forget it?

[ADakotaRTGuy]

Is he gonna show you how to adjust it for the track? Or is it set it and forget it?

Yea he pretty much showed me already, adjust the top right bar one flat at a time to straighten it out, then lock it down and run the shit out of it. Well adjust shocks and air pressure after that.

[sunike32]

That's looking great :biggthumpup:

[ADakotaRTGuy]

Picked it up, wow what a difference. First the ride quality is about a 100 times better. Very smooth since I have the shocks on the soft setting, just the way I like it. The ride height is perfect just like it was before and the wheels moved in about 1.5 inches, again perfect because they used to stick out just a little bit. Now the best part, on street tires it plants and goes, I would usually spin a little. I have not done it from a stand still because well I am a chicken shit and don't want to get a ticket. I am going to drive it this week to break in the gears and then go to the track saturday. I will get some more pictures later.

[sunike32]

Picked it up, wow what a difference. First the ride quality is about a 100 times better. Very smooth since I have the shocks on the soft setting, just the way I like it. The ride height is perfect just like it was before and the wheels moved in about 1.5 inches, again perfect because they used to stick out just a little bit. Now the best part, on street tires it plants and goes, I would usually spin a little. I have not done it from a stand still because well I am a chicken shit and don't want to get a ticket. I am going to drive it this week to break in the gears and then go to the track saturday. I will get some more pictures later.

No, get more pictures NOW!! Congrats :nana:

[ADakotaRTGuy]

No, get more pictures NOW!! Congrats :nana:

Haha, I am at work right now.

[Sick 660r]

Make that about 1200 he said. Wow that was a lot of dough.

lot of dough??? that is effin cheap compared to around here.

[Sick 660r]

congrats man. The setup looks sweet.

[ADakotaRTGuy]

lot of dough??? that is effin cheap compared to around here.

Just seems like a lot cause I broke it up into little stages I guess, hahah.

[ADakotaRTGuy]

And the finished product.

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d197/Davidsalazar03/Truck/CIMG2491.jpg

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d197/Davidsalazar03/Truck/CIMG2490.jpg

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d197/Davidsalazar03/Truck/CIMG2489.jpg

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d197/Davidsalazar03/Truck/CIMG2485.jpg

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d197/Davidsalazar03/Truck/CIMG2486.jpg

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d197/Davidsalazar03/Truck/CIMG2499.jpg

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d197/Davidsalazar03/Truck/CIMG2497.jpg

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d197/Davidsalazar03/Truck/CIMG2496.jpg

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d197/Davidsalazar03/Truck/CIMG2495.jpg

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d197/Davidsalazar03/Truck/CIMG2492.jpg

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d197/Davidsalazar03/Truck/CIMG2500.jpg

[Adobedude]

You suck....

[ADakotaRTGuy]

You suck....

I take it you like it.

[ADakotaRTGuy]

Forgot to add another great part, everything I added probably weighed as much as one of the leaf springs. I think I shed a good 100lbs from the truck.

[Adobedude]

Forgot to add another great part, everything I added probably weighed as much as one of the leaf springs. I think I shed a good 100lbs from the truck.

I shed a ton with the monoleafs, then I bolted on the caltracs... :(

[ADakotaRTGuy]

I shed a ton with the monoleafs, then I bolted on the caltracs... :(

Yea this is a great set up. Although I don't know how well the rear brakes are working. Don't look faded at all yet.

[ADakotaRTGuy]

Any chance you can post up the parts list with links/part#s? Especially interested in the spring rate you selected on those coilovers.

Sure

4-link
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CEE-2017/ (197 shipped after price match)

Shock Mounts
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HAL-MT100K/

Panhard Bar
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CEE-2037/

Truetrac - 498 Shipped after price match
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/DTL-913A368/

Axles - at cost, don't now what it actually cost though, paid for everything together for the axles/brakes/bearings/retainers and install.
http://www.moserengineering.com/axles/custom-alloy-axles/custom-alloy-31-spline-axles.html

Brakes - got the ones with the E-brake in case I want to add them later.
http://www.moserengineering.com/brakes/torino-housing-ends-w-2-5-parking-brake.html

Ends
http://www.moserengineering.com/big-ford-1-2-holes.html

Coilovers - 149 each local
http://qa1.thomasnet.com/item/proma-star-reg-single-and-double-adjustable-shoc-2/proma-star-reg-single-and-double-adjustable-shocks/dr7855p?&seo=110&plpver=1001

Springs - Would of got these but they were not in stock so got the same spring in a hypercoil brand. They are 14" with a 150 spring rate.

http://qa1.thomasnet.com/item/motorsports-drag-and-street-performance-springs/2-1-2-i-d-coil-springs/14-150?&plpver=1001&origin=advsrch&by=prod&filter=0

[ME111]

Awesome!! Many thanks for posting that up.

[ADakotaRTGuy]

Awesome!! Many thanks for posting that up.

No problem, had a power outage during the Cubs game, haha

[BluRT00]

I agree with Mr DA! You suck a big one. Can't wait to see what she does at the strip. :biggthumpup:

[ADakotaRTGuy]

I agree with Mr DA! You suck a big one. Can't wait to see what she does at the strip. :biggthumpup:

Will do, :rockwoot:

[TurboBlew]

looks nice. Now lets see some darkies :biggthumpup:

[ADakotaRTGuy]

looks nice. Now lets see some darkies :biggthumpup:

What's a darkie?

[Adobedude]

What's a darkie?

If it's working, no darkies.....:rockwoot:

[TurboBlew]

What's a darkie?

A symbol of your trucks "Alphaness" :D

http://image.musclemustangfastfords.com/f/9154711+w750+st0/mmfp_0712_02_z+1986_ford_mustang_lx+burnout_marks. jpg

[Sick 660r]

A symbol of your trucks "Alphaness" :D

http://image.musclemustangfastfords.com/f/9154711+w750+st0/mmfp_0712_02_z+1986_ford_mustang_lx+burnout_marks. jpg

I can do that :jester:

[ADakotaRTGuy]

I can do that :jester:

That means you will lose, haha

[Sick 660r]

That means you will lose, haha

that I already know lol

[bttlefed]

A symbol of your trucks "Alphaness" :D

http://image.musclemustangfastfords.com/f/9154711+w750+st0/mmfp_0712_02_z+1986_ford_mustang_lx+burnout_marks. jpg

That is a skinny set of marks....

[ME111]

That ain't dick unless there were NO brake lights as well.

[TurboBlew]

That means you will lose, haha

only til the tires are hawt. Then its all ova!!

[ADakotaRTGuy]

only til the tires are hawt. Then its all ova!!

By that time I am at the 1/8th mile. haha

[TurboBlew]

By that time I am at the 1/8th mile. haha

Ill catch you on the big end!!!!!!!!! :jester:

[ADakotaRTGuy]

Ill catch you on the big end!!!!!!!!! :jester:

Riiiight.........:nana:

[dakotapimpc]

looks great dave who was it that did all your work im way to lazy to go back and check :rockwoot:

[ADakotaRTGuy]

looks great dave who was it that did all your work im way to lazy to go back and check :rockwoot:

Local guy here in Aberdeen. Fabrications Unlimited on Facebook.

[Electrical Tech]

You mentioned that you weren't sure if the rear brakes were working. I have a Wilwood setup on the Ford 9" and have a problem that I believe can be solved with a adjustable proportioning valve. I tried getting in contact with the Wilwood rep and cannot get a reply. Has anyone else had issues with a rear disk setup and what proportioning valve can you suggest?

I would like to get the Wilwood setup to work better before I get another one for my 98 Dakota with the Mopar 8 3/4 rear axle. The speed sensor for the Mopar came out much better using a standard mag pickup.

FYI The speed sensor is used by the speedo, ABS, and the TCM for the 46RE guys.

Mike,

[ADakotaRTGuy]

You mentioned that you weren't sure if the rear brakes were working. I have a Wilwood setup on the Ford 9" and have a problem that I believe can be solved with a adjustable proportioning valve. I tried getting in contact with the Wilwood rep and cannot get a reply. Has anyone else had issues with a rear disk setup and what proportioning valve can you suggest?

I would like to get the Wilwood setup to work better before I get another one for my 98 Dakota with the Mopar 8 3/4 rear axle. The speed sensor for the Mopar came out much better using a standard mag pickup.

FYI The speed sensor is used by the speedo, ABS, and the TCM for the 46RE guys.

Mike,

I am thinking I need to bleed the rears better because the setup is pretty much the same since I had rear disc already. However the braking does not seem that much different from before.

[Sick 660r]

was your axle shortened from the outside of the tubes or the inside?

[ADakotaRTGuy]

was your axle shortened from the outside of the tubes or the inside?

Cut off the stock ends and added the ford ends. Thus shortening the ends of the tubes.

[DrewzR/T]

I'm late to the party but that's a fuckin badass set-up dude. Don't hate me for being a copy cat!!!

[ADakotaRTGuy]

I'm late to the party but that's a fuckin badass set-up dude. Don't hate me for being a copy cat!!!

Haha, I copied the 4 link from someone else.

[DjWolf37]

looks bad ass man. In fact it motivated me to re do the 4-link I had on mine. I am mounting it inside the frame rails though (I can tuck a 22"x15" rim in the rear now). The brackets i ordered look the same as yours, and i am making my own bars. Have you had a chance to play around with the adjustments yet?

[ADakotaRTGuy]

looks bad ass man. In fact it motivated me to re do the 4-link I had on mine. I am mounting it inside the frame rails though (I can tuck a 22"x15" rim in the rear now). The brackets i ordered look the same as yours, and i am making my own bars. Have you had a chance to play around with the adjustments yet?

Not really, I took it out once and it was not dialed in. Set only about 8% weight transfer. Switched it to about 80%, but never had a chance to go back out.

[Addicted2Blue00]

True, to each his own. I will stay boring and worry about the other things going on.
i agree with ya, i would enjoy a manual auto with a floor shifter over a stick