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SB440R/T
01-27-2010, 03:07 AM
What are some of the options and what would be the most simple? All of the interior is out now. Seems like POR 15 would be pretty simple. Would a 5 Point be more than 6 sq ft you think? There starter set is 19 bucks but only covers 6 sq ft. Is it hard to work with?

wyotech_cuda440
01-27-2010, 03:23 AM
What are some of the options and what would be the most simple? All of the interior is out now. Seems like POR 15 would be pretty simple. Would a 5 Point be more than 6 sq ft you think? There starter set is 19 bucks but only covers 6 sq ft. Is it hard to work with?

I've never used POR-15, so I don't know how hard it is to work with, but 6 sq.ft. should cover about 36 feet of 1 5/8 tubing.

ddrango
01-27-2010, 03:36 AM
maybe give epoxy paint a shot?

sunike32
01-27-2010, 03:42 AM
I used POR15 on my control arms when I did the CA bushings last year. The best advice I was given: MAKE SURE YOU WEAR GLOVES.

Branx5.9
01-27-2010, 03:46 AM
Ive painted several frames with Por-15 it goes on very smooth.

bad360rt
01-27-2010, 03:53 AM
A few folks on yellowbullet said they use Rustoleum Hammered finish paint, brush on tho, not the spray stuff. There were some pics of it, looked pretty good, the black looks more like gray, would probably go with well with my charcoal theme. :)

White Turbo
01-27-2010, 04:37 AM
What are some of the options and what would be the most simple? All of the interior is out now. Seems like POR 15 would be pretty simple. Would a 5 Point be more than 6 sq ft you think? There starter set is 19 bucks but only covers 6 sq ft. Is it hard to work with?

I used POR 15 on the interior portion of my bar.
I used latex gloves when I worked with it.

I taped off places where I might accidently get paint on the interior (like around the floor boards, etc.)
It dries fairly quickly in a warm garage, so I only poured a little bit at a time into a throwaway container. Keep the can sealed. Start from the back of the truck, and work your way out. I painted one section at a time, then let dry. Turned out nice. Wears like iron.

For the under frame areas and outriggers, I used a spray on undercoating from 3-M. Part #08881. It leaves a kind of rubbery feel to it when it dries. Protects well against rock chips, abrasion, etc.

I did this several years ago now and it still looks good.

SB440R/T
01-27-2010, 12:46 PM
Thanks guys, I might try that POR-15.

Duner
01-27-2010, 12:56 PM
I just used rattle-can rustoleum. The beauty of that was when I made changes (welded in another bar) to the rollbar a couple of months ago, it was easy to touch it all back up. But then again, I doubt POR 15 falls under the heading of CBE anyway.

SB440R/T
01-27-2010, 02:45 PM
I just used rattle-can rustoleum. The beauty of that was when I made changes (welded in another bar) to the rollbar a couple of months ago, it was easy to touch it all back up. But then again, I doubt POR 15 falls under the heading of CBE anyway.

Haha, I had to think of what CBE stood for, Crude But Effective, haha. I love that.

Sick 660r
01-27-2010, 04:04 PM
I just used rattle-can rustoleum. The beauty of that was when I made changes (welded in another bar) to the rollbar a couple of months ago, it was easy to touch it all back up. But then again, I doubt POR 15 falls under the heading of CBE anyway.

:jester:

Lederip
01-27-2010, 07:20 PM
I used Por 15 and sponge brush. As recommended by sunike32--WEAR GLOVES!@!

SB440R/T
01-30-2010, 03:32 AM
I used POR 15 on the interior portion of my bar.
I used latex gloves when I worked with it.

I taped off places where I might accidently get paint on the interior (like around the floor boards, etc.)
It dries fairly quickly in a warm garage, so I only poured a little bit at a time into a throwaway container. Keep the can sealed. Start from the back of the truck, and work your way out. I painted one section at a time, then let dry. Turned out nice. Wears like iron.

For the under frame areas and outriggers, I used a spray on undercoating from 3-M. Part #08881. It leaves a kind of rubbery feel to it when it dries. Protects well against rock chips, abrasion, etc.

I did this several years ago now and it still looks good.

You have any pictures of how your seatbelts are bolted down?

White Turbo
01-30-2010, 04:53 AM
You have any pictures of how your seatbelts are bolted down?



This is how they attach to the crossbar. They clip on to an eyebolt which is welded to a tab on the bar.
http://www.dakotart.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=2640&stc=1&d=1264830702
For the floor attachment, there are plates welded to the floorboard, with an eyebolt mounted thru them.
http://www.dakotart.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=2639&stc=1&d=1264830349

WhiteRT
01-30-2010, 05:14 AM
You have any pictures of how your seatbelts are bolted down?

I have an extra can of POR-15 you can have cheap if you want it - never been opened and kept in the refridgerator.

Todd

sunike32
01-30-2010, 05:55 AM
I have an extra can of POR-15 you can have cheap if you want it - never been opened and kept in the refridgerator.

Todd

I bet the wife loved that one too :nono: That is, unless you had your own out in the garage :jester:

uwntsumrtII
01-30-2010, 06:36 AM
i was planning to use POR w/ a small foam roller when it came time to do mine. then lightly sand it smooth.

Ken Walker used POR w/ a normal paint brush. turned out pretty good but you can see the brush strokes if you look close enough.

SB440R/T
01-30-2010, 03:04 PM
I have an extra can of POR-15 you can have cheap if you want it - never been opened and kept in the refridgerator.

Todd

PMd, Thanks Todd

WhiteRT
01-30-2010, 03:24 PM
I bet the wife loved that one too :nono: That is, unless you had your own out in the garage :jester:

We have a garage fridge.....that is where it was at....

Todd

sunike32
01-30-2010, 06:06 PM
i was planning to use POR w/ a small foam roller when it came time to do mine. then lightly sand it smooth.

Ken Walker used POR w/ a normal paint brush. turned out pretty good but you can see the brush strokes if you look close enough.

Rob, I'm not sure you'd want to sand the POR15 finish after it dries. So far, I have only used POR15 on my control arms when I had them all apart last summer. I used a small foam brush applicator and the finish turned out pretty smooth. I'd be afraid of the finish looking horribly dull if you sanded it at all. Also, they claim the stuff to be so damn hard and durable that you may need to use some fairly high grit paper to even cut through it. Just something to think about...obviously you could make your decision after the finish dried and you were able to inspect it :biggthumpup:

White Turbo
01-30-2010, 06:42 PM
Rob, I'm not sure you'd want to sand the POR15 finish after it dries. So far, I have only used POR15 on my control arms when I had them all apart last summer. I used a small foam brush applicator and the finish turned out pretty smooth. I'd be afraid of the finish looking horribly dull if you sanded it at all. Also, they claim the stuff to be so damn hard and durable that you may need to use some fairly high grit paper to even cut through it. Just something to think about...obviously you could make your decision after the finish dried and you were able to inspect it :biggthumpup:

I agree. If you sand it you'll ruin the finish.
What worked best for me was to paint it fairly thick, and quickly. The more I tried to thin the paint out with a brush, the more brush stroking I got.