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RTchas
01-25-2010, 03:28 AM
Okay I know some here are against these set ups, to each his own, I wanted to try something different so here are some pic's of what Ive got done so far. (pay no attention to date on photo's) Im still working on it and have much work ahead. just wanted to share my progress. BTW I am by no means a welder or fabricator this is my first attempt at both and Im learning as I go..


http://i808.photobucket.com/albums/zz4/rtchas/Truck%20pics/oilreturn008.jpg (http://s808.photobucket.com/user/rtchas/media/Truck%20pics/oilreturn008.jpg.html)

3" Exhaust pipe with mandrel bent pieces from racepartssolutions.com

http://i808.photobucket.com/albums/zz4/rtchas/Truck%20pics/oilreturn010.jpg (http://s808.photobucket.com/user/rtchas/media/Truck%20pics/oilreturn010.jpg.html)
STS universal turbo kit

http://i808.photobucket.com/albums/zz4/rtchas/Truck%20pics/oilreturn009.jpg (http://s808.photobucket.com/user/rtchas/media/Truck%20pics/oilreturn009.jpg.html)
68mm snail


http://i808.photobucket.com/albums/zz4/rtchas/Truck%20pics/oilreturn011.jpg (http://s808.photobucket.com/user/rtchas/media/Truck%20pics/oilreturn011.jpg.html)

Tial gate came in kit

2k1AmberR/T
01-25-2010, 03:49 AM
Fucking awesome! No more belt problems at Carlisle this year, huh? What turbo did you go with? Share more pics as your work progresses. How far back did you mount it? Looks like it's a little ways in front of the rear axle.

RTchas
01-25-2010, 03:58 AM
Fucking awesome! No more belt problems at Carlisle this year, huh? What turbo did you go with? Share more pics as your work progresses. How far back did you mount it? Looks like it's a little ways in front of the rear axle.

No the belt is safe from any trouble, my M&H's however will be in trouble.. I shit canned the Powerdyne its in a box in the garage been ther since the "Carlisle Disaster" anyone want it give me $100 and its yours minus fmu and air hat..:jerkit:

Its an STS Uni kit I put it where the stk muff went still have to run some plumbing for oil return and the discharge to motor but its getting close to looking like a reality Ive had this kit since Aug! I had to buy a Mig welder and then 3" pipe but Im getting closer.

RTchas
01-25-2010, 04:13 AM
Some more photos I have been working on this all month had to install a woodstove in my garage so I could get this project off the ground no heat was no go! Now its 60+ in there Wife dont see me much:angrywife:

http://i808.photobucket.com/albums/zz4/rtchas/Truck%20pics/sts008.jpg (http://s808.photobucket.com/user/rtchas/media/Truck%20pics/sts008.jpg.html)

http://i808.photobucket.com/albums/zz4/rtchas/Truck%20pics/sts014.jpg (http://s808.photobucket.com/user/rtchas/media/Truck%20pics/sts014.jpg.html)


http://i808.photobucket.com/albums/zz4/rtchas/Truck%20pics/sts011.jpg (http://s808.photobucket.com/user/rtchas/media/Truck%20pics/sts011.jpg.html)


http://i808.photobucket.com/albums/zz4/rtchas/Truck%20pics/sts005.jpg (http://s808.photobucket.com/user/rtchas/media/Truck%20pics/sts005.jpg.html)

http://i808.photobucket.com/albums/zz4/rtchas/Truck%20pics/oilreturn022.jpg (http://s808.photobucket.com/user/rtchas/media/Truck%20pics/oilreturn022.jpg.html)

RTchas
01-25-2010, 04:16 AM
Some more of mock up in the vise and on the floor the last one is the tailpipe I dumped it over the rear axle still may add to it not sure just yet.


http://i808.photobucket.com/albums/zz4/rtchas/Truck%20pics/oilreturn022.jpg (http://s808.photobucket.com/user/rtchas/media/Truck%20pics/oilreturn022.jpg.html)
http://i808.photobucket.com/albums/zz4/rtchas/Truck%20pics/oilreturn018.jpg (http://s808.photobucket.com/user/rtchas/media/Truck%20pics/oilreturn018.jpg.html)

http://i808.photobucket.com/albums/zz4/rtchas/Truck%20pics/sts009.jpg (http://s808.photobucket.com/user/rtchas/media/Truck%20pics/sts009.jpg.html)

http://i808.photobucket.com/albums/zz4/rtchas/Truck%20pics/sts015.jpg (http://s808.photobucket.com/user/rtchas/media/Truck%20pics/sts015.jpg.html)

ddrango
01-25-2010, 04:23 AM
What happened to the s/c? $100? lol

Great work! That is a real interesting setup. I don't see what's wrong with rear mount turbos if they are done RIGHT. :rockwoot:

RTchas
01-25-2010, 04:45 AM
[QUOTE=ddrango;90894]What happened to the s/c? $100? lol





It locked up on the Pa Tp on the way to Carlisle bearing seized after I sent it out for a full "Race build" had two Kevlar belts shit the bed before that.. I know Powerdyne gets a bad rep but some guys do have good luck with them Im just not "That Guy!" so yeah $100 its yours..

bad360rt
01-25-2010, 09:25 AM
Fuck yeah!!! Nice work bro!

Don't let anyone give you shit about the rear mount setup, it works, period. Boost is boost, then engine doesn't give a shit where the turbo is. There's an R/T in MD/DE running low 11's with the same setup you're putting in. :biggthumpup:

DakotaLivLrg
01-25-2010, 09:44 AM
Nice man... If I run turbo that would be the set up I run, so that it hopefully wouldn't mess with the shaker hood ..lol

can't wait to see the full installed pics and hear what it does for ya :woot:

Five9Dak
01-25-2010, 10:16 AM
Very nice, keep us posted.

The grinder covers many sins, if you didn't say anything I wouldn't have thought it was your first time welding.

RTchas
01-25-2010, 12:14 PM
Fuck yeah!!! Nice work bro!

Don't let anyone give you shit about the rear mount setup, it works, period. Boost is boost, then engine doesn't give a shit where the turbo is. There's an R/T in MD/DE running low 11's with the same setup you're putting in. :biggthumpup:

Thanks Dave I'm pumped about the whole thing should be good for 12's on 5pds thru my "Stock" motor I know the guy in DE is running built motor (not 408) I wish I had a chance to run the blower cause on the butt dyno it felt strong around 2800 rpm I bet it had a high 12 in it.

RTchas
01-25-2010, 12:16 PM
Nice man... If I run turbo that would be the set up I run, so that it hopefully wouldn't mess with the shaker hood ..lol

can't wait to see the full installed pics and hear what it does for ya :woot:

I hear ya I like the clean uncluttered engine bay :biggthumpup:

RTchas
01-25-2010, 12:21 PM
Very nice, keep us posted.

The grinder covers many sins, if you didn't say anything I wouldn't have thought it was your first time welding.

LOL yes it dose! Its to bad it can't fix burns..I may need to grind my Wedding band some how I got spatter on it! Hope the Wife dont see it..

Intense RT
01-25-2010, 02:34 PM
LOL yes it dose! Its to bad it can't fix burns..I may need to grind my Wedding band some how I got spatter on it! Hope the Wife dont see it..Hey I got some spatter on mine a few years ago, took a couple years for the bb to fall out, lol. A fingernail wasn't going to get it out either.

Cool project and I think it'll turn out great. I've considered this as I don't want all the underhood heatsoak. I think the only downside is the electric oil pump. I've wondered if one could mount it higher up, like in the bed to get the oil to drain back well enough. Crazy huh.

RTchas
01-25-2010, 02:50 PM
Hey I got some spatter on mine a few years ago, took a couple years for the bb to fall out, lol. A fingernail wasn't going to get it out either.

Cool project and I think it'll turn out great. I've considered this as I don't want all the underhood heatsoak. I think the only downside is the electric oil pump. I've wondered if one could mount it higher up, like in the bed to get the oil to drain back well enough. Crazy huh.

The deal with the oil feed is your feeding it off the oil sending unit to top of the turbo then it is pumped back into either the oil pan or valve cover. The pump has a pressure switch that sounds a buzzer in cab incase you ever lose oil pressure from pump failure ,so it seems like it's fail safe if you set it up correctly. I went with valve cover return cant bring myself to punch hole in my stk pan if I ever pull motor I will get another pan and tap it for now I tapped a Mopar Valve cover I got off CL for $30.

http://i808.photobucket.com/albums/zz4/rtchas/Truck%20pics/sts013.jpg (http://s808.photobucket.com/user/rtchas/media/Truck%20pics/sts013.jpg.html)

http://i808.photobucket.com/albums/zz4/rtchas/Truck%20pics/oilreturn020.jpg (http://s808.photobucket.com/user/rtchas/media/Truck%20pics/oilreturn020.jpg.html)


http://i808.photobucket.com/albums/zz4/rtchas/Truck%20pics/oilreturn013.jpg (http://s808.photobucket.com/user/rtchas/media/Truck%20pics/oilreturn013.jpg.html)


http://i808.photobucket.com/albums/zz4/rtchas/Truck%20pics/oilreturn010.jpg (http://s808.photobucket.com/user/rtchas/media/Truck%20pics/oilreturn010.jpg.html)

http://i808.photobucket.com/albums/zz4/rtchas/Truck%20pics/oilreturn004.jpg (http://s808.photobucket.com/user/rtchas/media/Truck%20pics/oilreturn004.jpg.html)

BluRT00
01-25-2010, 03:00 PM
Keep us updated...... Love the pictures...

Intense RT
01-25-2010, 03:02 PM
Is it still 3K for the Uni Kit?

01dakotaR/T
01-25-2010, 03:02 PM
very nice. what size is the turbo??

RTchas
01-25-2010, 03:44 PM
Is it still 3K for the Uni Kit?

$1995.00 plain upgrades are more$.. I got base kit for Stk 5.9 with 5psi I saw some guys buy the Hemi kit and make it work.That one is over 3k ..Knowing what I know now I would piece my own kit and save $ cause the uni kit is very basic alot of custom fab work here they give you no pipes for intake or exhaust that more$ I see PIE has a kit for $2000.00 and change not sure what you get but so far Im in that ballpark with all my parts and materials (got the kit for good price in Aug of 09) BTW I had an FMU,Airhat,MSD with BTM so if you add them to list with my LM-2 I'd be close to 3k heres their site http://www.ststurbo.com/universal_turbo_systems

RTchas
01-25-2010, 03:51 PM
very nice. what size is the turbo??

Its a 68 mm STS ? who they get it from Idunno its shiny..

http://i808.photobucket.com/albums/zz4/rtchas/Truck%20pics/oilreturn014.jpg (http://s808.photobucket.com/user/rtchas/media/Truck%20pics/oilreturn014.jpg.html)

RTchas
01-25-2010, 04:01 PM
Keep us updated...... Love the pictures...


Ive gone Picture happy because in my quest to find out all I could on STS rear mounts on a Dak there was very little info and pics on here or Dak/Dur DTO and so fourth.It was like looking for a Unicorn. I wanted to put it out there the good the bad and the ugly if it helps one guy like myself out in his quest to make a faster Dakota then Im happy I could be a part of that. So I will try to up date all I can and if ANYONE here wants a specific photo post up! I will do what I can with what I got. Im in a small dark garage working on jackstands so under body shot's no matter how I back light them still are dark it SUCK's. lol

BluRT00
01-25-2010, 04:08 PM
Ive gone Picture happy because in my quest to find out all I could on STS rear mounts on a Dak there was very little info and pics on here or Dak/Dur DTO and so fourth.It was like looking for a Unicorn. I wanted to put it out there the good the bad and the ugly if it helps one guy like myself out in his quest to make a faster Dakota then Im happy I could be a part of that. So I will try to up date all I can and if ANYONE here wants a specific photo post up! I will do what I can with what I got. Im in a small dark garage working on jackstands so under body shot's no matter how I back light them still are dark it SUCK's. lol

When its all said and done, open up a small webpage with a write up. It would help alot of newbies out. I still wonder at times if I should go turbo. Though I stick with my paxton novi 2000. :jester:

2k1AmberR/T
01-25-2010, 06:32 PM
http://performanceinjectionequipment.com/budget_turbo_kits.php

01dakotaR/T
01-25-2010, 09:18 PM
Its a 68 mm STS ? who they get it from Idunno its shiny!:D

nice:biggthumpup: are you still using stock head gaskets??

Intense RT
01-26-2010, 12:58 AM
nice:biggthumpup: are you still using stock head gaskets??Lol, not for long either way...:D

01dakotaR/T
01-26-2010, 01:16 AM
Lol, not for long either way...:D

they wouldnt last with 5 lbs of boost??

Intense RT
01-26-2010, 01:32 AM
they wouldnt last with 5 lbs of boost??Well, maybe 5lbs, :biggthumpup:. But how long would it stay there? Can he resist temptation?:D

01dakotaR/T
01-26-2010, 01:34 AM
Well, maybe 5lbs, :biggthumpup:. But how long would it stay there? Can he resist temptation?:D

lol, i know i would want to turn up the boost:woot:

i wonder if the stock gaskets can take 10 lbs if you had head studs...

Intense RT
01-26-2010, 01:38 AM
lol, i know i would want to turn up the boost:woot:

i wonder if the stock gaskets can take 10 lbs if you had head studs...I don't know. I haven't been down that road. That would be a trial and error deal for me if I wanted to "push it". I'd just use what seems to be holding up with others' setups.

RTchas
01-26-2010, 02:24 AM
My Motor is still holding together with 24000 miles and no more than a set of H&S 1.7's and a M-1 2bl. Stock heads and gasket I ran the powerdyne with 6pds and the BTM and FMU kept it together with no problem. I know 9-10pds and the gaskets would be toast. I also sprayed it with 100 shoot for 2 seasons before the blower with no problem. I will be putting Felpros in at some point just want to see how long she can go cause when I do blow one its GAME ON ! If I find a Mag motor before then I will start my next wallet draining adventure.:biggthumpup:

SB440R/T
01-26-2010, 02:27 AM
If I find a Mag motor before then I will start my next wallet draining adventure.:biggthumpup:

Let me help you start that draining.

http://baltimore.craigslist.org/pts/1566065508.html

ddrango
01-26-2010, 02:35 AM
Let me help you start that draining.

http://baltimore.craigslist.org/pts/1566065508.html

Son of a bitch! bad timing yet again...damnit :jester:

RTchas
01-26-2010, 02:51 AM
Let me help you start that draining.

http://baltimore.craigslist.org/pts/1566065508.html

Dude you suck! And why cant he live in Philly!!! LOL If I wasn't elbow deep in the turbo build right now I would be coming to visit!

01dakotaR/T
01-26-2010, 03:23 AM
My Motor is still holding together with 24000 miles and no more than a set of H&S 1.7's and a M-1 2bl. Stock heads and gasket I ran the powerdyne with 6pds and the BTM and FMU kept it together with no problem. I know 9-10pds and the gaskets would be toast. I also sprayed it with 100 shoot for 2 seasons before the blower with no problem. I will be putting Felpros in at some point just want to see how long she can go cause when I do blow one its GAME ON ! If I find a Mag motor before then I will start my next wallet draining adventure.:biggthumpup:

cool. how much power do you think you will be making to the wheels with the 5lbs of boost? what are your other mods to the motor? keep us posted about how long those stock gaskets hold.

BluRT00
01-26-2010, 02:54 PM
I am all for this build, but don't half ass it with not swapping the head gaskets. Hell their is a bunch of us supercharged/turbo guys out there that say that's a must. Maybe 4 hrs of work if that vs whatever damage/ warpage happens when you blow the head gasket.

RTchas
01-26-2010, 04:04 PM
cool. how much power do you think you will be making to the wheels with the 5lbs of boost? what are your other mods to the motor? keep us posted about how long those stock gaskets hold.

I think 300rwhp is doable I have put down around 224 @ All Chrysler few yrs back N/A . I stated H&S RR and M-1. I also have MSD with BTM and Mopar headers 180 stat ,3923's MSD Plug wire's Mopar PCM , Billet 50mm F&B and LM-2. Gaskets should last forever :bs:

RTchas
01-26-2010, 04:10 PM
I am all for this build, but don't half ass it with not swapping the head gaskets. Hell their is a bunch of us supercharged/turbo guys out there that say that's a must. Maybe 4 hrs of work if that vs whatever damage/ warpage happens when you blow the head gasket.

Hey I dont think its half assed if I have 5lbs with BTM and a "safe" tune on it .I know a lot of guys who with 6lbs ran with stockers for some time, it's when you get greedy with the boost that you start risking falure. Like I said if I nuke the gaskets then its time to bullet proof the bitch:biggthumpup: And if I warp the heads then I get Eddy's and put a 78mm on this bad boy!

01dakotaR/T
01-26-2010, 04:41 PM
I think 300rwhp is doable I have put down around 224 @ All Chrysler few yrs back N/A . I stated H&S RR and M-1. I also have MSD with BTM and Mopar headers 180 stat ,3923's MSD Plug wire's Mopar PCM , Billet 50mm F&B and LM-2. Gaskets should last forever :bs:

no injectors??

Kryp2nitE
01-26-2010, 05:41 PM
What are you using for an oil pump?

Five9Dak
01-27-2010, 12:34 AM
I wouldn't touch the gaskets for 5psi, 6-7 has been no problem for me, even down low when the cylinder pressures are way higher. I learned to tune on the boosted motor too, so it wasn't pretty to start off with, she held together fine.

Intense RT
01-27-2010, 02:04 AM
If it were me. 5lbs is fine...but with an opened up intake side of the engine. Cheap and easy port job to the stock heads (bowl work, pushrod pinch mainly), 4bbl m1, 55-58mm F&B. Do the head gaskets while you have the heads off.

Hugh Jassole
01-27-2010, 02:02 PM
taking notes for my Hemi Ram. The R/T stays n/a. :woot:

mtlcafan79
01-28-2010, 01:40 AM
taking notes for my Hemi Ram. The R/T stays n/a. :woot:

http://www.bionicdodge.com/bionic/index.php?topic=9330.msg90018#msg90018

Add that to your notes.

01dakotaR/T
01-28-2010, 02:01 PM
http://www.bionicdodge.com/bionic/index.php?topic=9330.msg90018#msg90018

Add that to your notes.

lots of good info in there.:biggthumpup:

RawR/T
02-01-2010, 04:44 AM
Hey guys, im new to this forum but have been dealing with turbo engines for a long time on import cars. I have had 800whp 4cyl eclipse's, 800whp 6cyl supra's and a few other lower HP imports with turbo's.

I have some questions about the sheer size of that turbo. Im didn't read if that was a single turbo setup or not, but with less than a 300-350whp baseline you will have a LARGE turbo lag. Especially with it being remote mounted under the bed. I am going to be doing something very similar to what you are doing to my own R/T, except im planning to use Twin turbo's at about 10psi per side. For a total of about 16psi to the mani after intercooler drop off.

I have been considering making an airbox in the bed of the truck with a flat K&N there and a cover tray over it to keep the elements away from the filter..

An OEM head gasket will never hold over 7psi, and above 6psi you run a very good chance of lifting the head on OEM bolts. They just arent strong enough. I have not looked for ARP bolts for my RT yet, but that is all we use on building imports. I also know that you can have your head O ringed for boosted applications. I have a guy near me that does it, and from all the race engines near me, he has never had a head (or headgasket) fail.

I plan to use a small p-trim 52mm turbo setup for my dak. The boost levels im looking for are perfect for that and have minimal turbo lag. Much higher than that is going to get very dicey on the lag. A 52mm turbine on the cold side is great to pull up to 25psi, and will spool very quickly with only 4 cyl. Im going to be running my header back Magnaflow up to where it goes into the muffler, then im going to Y it off there to the 2 turbo's. From the turbo's out in front of the rear tires. Air will be drawn in from the air box I build in the bed, and then up to a 2 to 1 intercooler up front. Then up to the TB. Lag should be minimal and boost should run a nice 14-16psi. That in with the rest I plan to do to the truck should net me around 600 hp....

RawR/T
02-01-2010, 04:57 AM
http://www.bionicdodge.com/bionic/index.php?topic=9330.msg90018#msg90018

Add that to your notes.

That turbo FRIED. The bearings in the middle of it blew or a seal blew. That oil on the hot side tells me he blew a seal behind the hot wheel and slung oil all over there. It also mis balanced the turbine which caused the nic's. There is also one more probability to that problem. He had no Blow Off Valve (BOV) to release the pressure built by the turbo when he would go from WOT to a closed position. Thus creating a turbo "surge" that would back pressure up to the turbo and try to make the turbine spin backwards. ALWAYS run a BOV with a turbo. Its part of the control system, just like a waste gate is. That looks like a poorly thought out issue to be honest. I see that all the time on hot shot kids with imports who think they can just bolt crap on and be fast. Yet they never understand the science behind what they are doing. Those pieces of fin missing from his impeller are now floating around his engine somewhere. As in they went into the intake, past the valves into the CC and either melted there, or were shot out the exhaust. Either way, NOT GOOD... If you need any help with turbo dynamics let me know. I may be new to the site, but im def not new to high performance turbo vehicles.

Five9Dak
02-01-2010, 10:30 AM
I might be misunderstanding, but you were talking about ADDING boost from two compressors?

Are you meaning to say it will be a compound set up? Otherwise you are introducing more volume, not pressure when you run two compressors in parallel.

mtlcafan79
02-01-2010, 12:42 PM
He had no Blow Off Valve (BOV) to release the pressure built by the turbo when he would go from WOT to a closed position. Thus creating a turbo "surge" that would back pressure up to the turbo and try to make the turbine spin backwards. ALWAYS run a BOV with a turbo. Its part of the control system, just like a waste gate is. That looks like a poorly thought out issue to be honest.

He had one. See the first post. It was a standard STS Hemi kit. They admitted it was a bad turbo and sent him a new one.

mtlcafan79
02-01-2010, 12:43 PM
I might be misunderstanding, but you were talking about ADDING boost from two compressors?

You know, like when you hit a 100 shot twice it's a 200 shot. It's like, Pah, PAH!!!1

mtlcafan79
02-01-2010, 12:54 PM
I have some questions about the sheer size of that turbo. Im didn't read if that was a single turbo setup or not, but with less than a 300-350whp baseline you will have a LARGE turbo lag. Especially with it being remote mounted under the bed.

http://www.youtube.com/v/CxG9_BkDX1E

That's a T70 remote setup IIRC. I think he forgot to install the lag.

miamikoda
02-01-2010, 01:01 PM
You know, like when you hit a 100 shot twice it's a 200 shot. It's like, Pah, PAH!!!1

nah you run a smaller turbo on 1 side and a bigger turbo on the other so theres no lag :jester: also i didnt know the magnum and a eclipse motor are about the same strength, :jester:

bad360rt
02-01-2010, 01:53 PM
Hey guys, im new to this forum but have been dealing with turbo engines for a long time on import cars. I have had 800whp 4cyl eclipse's, 800whp 6cyl supra's and a few other lower HP imports with turbo's.

I have some questions about the sheer size of that turbo. Im didn't read if that was a single turbo setup or not, but with less than a 300-350whp baseline you will have a LARGE turbo lag. Especially with it being remote mounted under the bed. I am going to be doing something very similar to what you are doing to my own R/T, except im planning to use Twin turbo's at about 10psi per side. For a total of about 16psi to the mani after intercooler drop off.

I have been considering making an airbox in the bed of the truck with a flat K&N there and a cover tray over it to keep the elements away from the filter..

An OEM head gasket will never hold over 7psi, and above 6psi you run a very good chance of lifting the head on OEM bolts. They just arent strong enough. I have not looked for ARP bolts for my RT yet, but that is all we use on building imports. I also know that you can have your head O ringed for boosted applications. I have a guy near me that does it, and from all the race engines near me, he has never had a head (or headgasket) fail.

I plan to use a small p-trim 52mm turbo setup for my dak. The boost levels im looking for are perfect for that and have minimal turbo lag. Much higher than that is going to get very dicey on the lag. A 52mm turbine on the cold side is great to pull up to 25psi, and will spool very quickly with only 4 cyl. Im going to be running my header back Magnaflow up to where it goes into the muffler, then im going to Y it off there to the 2 turbo's. From the turbo's out in front of the rear tires. Air will be drawn in from the air box I build in the bed, and then up to a 2 to 1 intercooler up front. Then up to the TB. Lag should be minimal and boost should run a nice 14-16psi. That in with the rest I plan to do to the truck should net me around 600 hp....

Talk to Duner and KJ, they're both running T76's and no lag. You have to remember, these are big V8's, with lots of torque, most turbo R/Ts have more problems with traction than lag. :D

There's a Durango in MI running 15psi on stock headgaskets & bolts. Altho, my stockers blew at 10psi, so you never know. I ran 15psi with Felpro gaskets and stock headbolts with no problems. With a good tune 6-7psi should hold just fine on stock gaskets (altho, I would just swap 'em and avoid the hassle of getting stranded somewhere).

Intense RT
02-01-2010, 02:32 PM
I might be misunderstanding, but you were talking about ADDING boost from two compressors?

Are you meaning to say it will be a compound set up? Otherwise you are introducing more volume, not pressure when you run two compressors in parallel.Ding ding ding!:biggthumpup:

Duner
02-01-2010, 02:35 PM
Lag? Hahahahaha I haven't actually experience any, so it's tough to answer that.

The only way I can even try to induce lag is to be sitting at a complete idle in drive and nail the throttle. The lag would best be described as the 3 feet the truck moved in that initial 1/2 second before the tires blew off. That's just how long it takes for the engine to rev from 900 rpm to 2500 rpm in idle and has nothing to do with the turbo. like Dave said, we have lots of trouble with traction - not lag.

Oh btw, I still run the stock head bolts and no head gasket issues.... ever. I ran the truck at 16-18 psi of boost for years.

Intense RT
02-01-2010, 02:38 PM
With a remote mount, using Duner etc as a baseline for what works, I think there may be something to using a slightly smaller compressor side due to exhaust gas volume reduction due to cooling. That would be something to consider to minimize lag if that was a concern. I wouldn't stress over it.

RawR/T
02-01-2010, 04:51 PM
nah you run a smaller turbo on 1 side and a bigger turbo on the other so theres no lag :jester: also i didnt know the magnum and a eclipse motor are about the same strength, :jester:

Have U ever seen a fully built 4G63 engine? If you really want to talk about how much an eclipse/talon (DSM) motor can handle, go to http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TwNzbcEXudE That is a 4g63 engine. Also I was reading thru that guys post and it only said it was a STS universal kit. That was all I read, yet I have not looked up on STS's page what that kit comes with, so my bad for not looking up the research on it. But to run TT's normally u feed the big one from the small one. Meaning you set one on lower boost with a smaller hot side compressor to build boost so the bigger one will have time to spool. But a big single turbo would work on a V8 because there is more exhaust gasses there to spool that turbo faster.

Traction on the dak sucks from the factory, so of course adding the power from a turbo is going to keep you from hooking. Without back halfing the truck its not going to hook any better as that video showed guys. Wheel hop is going to be there with the leafs. The only way your going to avoid the problem of traction is to run either 4 link or ladder bars with a slick. There is no street car out there with a 400+ hp that is going to hook on the street. And most states, slicks are illegal on city streets, so I dont see that being fixed anytime soon.

As for them replacing the turbo for him thats good. And for running 16-18psi on OEM head bolts may work for you, but im not going to trust my engine with that. The strength of the OEM bolts isnt there for that unless you have dropped cylinder pressures to the 8:1 or 9:1 range. If I am wrong and it has worked for you for years, that is great. And congrats. But I wont chance my heads lifting and me needing to replace BHG's and machine warped heads.

Oh and those ricers with fart cans who are always trying to play with you on the streets are high school kids with bolt on's. If your losing to them now, u should learn to drive better or learn to launch. Granted my supra stock will outrun the R/T all day on a boosted 6 cyl with only 12psi (all stock) not many imports can boast the same. A GSX eclipse will give it a run for its money too, because although it has only 212whp its AWHP as its a FWD bias all time all wheel drive car. On only 8PSI. The supra runs 13's out of the box and the eclipse runs low 14's out of the box. I have time slips to prove that too. So trashing imports to me is going to make me laugh at you. They are engines just like the magnum, they revolve on the same physics as the magnum. They also in a lot of cases produce the same hp as the magnum with less cylinders. For those of you who want to point this out however, YES the magnum makes much more low end TQ. But all V8's do as opposed to the 4 and 6 cylinders. I dont see many stock bottom end V8's pulling the WHP that I have pulled from an import on stock bottom end. My supra project was 551whp on stock bottom end with 35psi boost. And it lit the tires on the dyno. Im not saying one engine is better than the other, but dont bash it because it is made in another country (as most of them are actually made in the US)

Duner
02-01-2010, 05:18 PM
My stock rotating assembly with the "Hecho en Mexico" pistons got me into the 10's making 600rwhp while still running the stock head bolts.... and factory throttle body LOL. I don't know how much more could be asked of the thing. I would say that O-ring and receiver grooved mating surfaces aren't really needed unless you are talking about going to a monster setup that will make more than 700rwhp.

Lately, traction is pretty good on the street with drag radials and roughly 350# worth of ballast in the bed... even with leaf springs. You can do a whole bunch with these trucks if you really put your mind to it.

http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m275/stirlgirl/DUNER/TNlaunchClosup2.jpg

RTchas
02-01-2010, 05:22 PM
http://www.youtube.com/v/CxG9_BkDX1E

That's a T70 remote setup IIRC. I think he forgot to install the lag.

Lag, This was my first question to STS Rep he told me I would never notice it?

RTchas
02-01-2010, 05:25 PM
Talk to Duner and KJ, they're both running T76's and no lag. You have to remember, these are big V8's, with lots of torque, most turbo R/Ts have more problems with traction than lag. :D

There's a Durango in MI running 15psi on stock headgaskets & bolts. Altho, my stockers blew at 10psi, so you never know. I ran 15psi with Felpro gaskets and stock headbolts with no problems. With a good tune 6-7psi should hold just fine on stock gaskets (altho, I would just swap 'em and avoid the hassle of getting stranded somewhere).

You would know all about that wouldnt ya!

2k1AmberR/T
02-01-2010, 05:26 PM
Nobody here is bashing imports. They're bashing you. You shouldn't have to come out an explain yourself and write 3 pages on the import ricer scene when it wasn't even brought up to begin with. What is it you're really trying to hide??? Are you sure the 52mm turbo isn't for your DSM and not the r/t?

RTchas
02-01-2010, 05:34 PM
68 mm is STS uni-kit for 5.9, so Im told by STS. Some are running 70+mm and putting down good numbers with built motors. I will be pushing the stock motor on 5psi of boost with an MSD with BTM on good gas with my BS powerdyne fmu.:biggthumpup:

RawR/T
02-01-2010, 05:34 PM
My stock rotating assembly with the "Hecho en Mexico" pistons got me into the 10's making 600rwhp while still running the stock head bolts.... and factory throttle body LOL. I don't know how much more could be asked of the thing. I would say that O-ring and receiver grooved mating surfaces aren't really needed unless you are talking about going to a monster setup that will make more than 700rwhp.

Lately, traction is pretty good on the street with drag radials and roughly 350# worth of ballast in the bed... even with leaf springs. You can do a whole bunch with these trucks if you really put your mind to it.

http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m275/stirlgirl/DUNER/TNlaunchClosup2.jpg

I agree, but I would rather build for 1000hp and run at 500 than build for 500 and fail at 501. Also I mistyped last night that 2 turbo's would get me 16psi at 10psi. I ment to say that 10psi on the street with 16 on the strip. I think that would be relatively safe for what im looking for. And thats a lot of ballast and weight to move down the track. When a properly tuned suspension could do the same job hooking with less weight. Making the truck that much faster. Less weight to propel means u can propel it faster. Im not trying to diminish your guys build's at all. They are sexy, but it seems that some people dont do the research into the proper function of a turbo, and understand the physics behind it. Im not buying a "kit" but rather piecing mine together. I have 2 small turbo's here already, I just have to CNC some flanges to weld up to my exhaust.. The turbo's I have are good to about 25psi and should spool incredibly fast for the exhaust volume. I also plan to run standalone and a return fuel system with an Adjustable fuel pressure reg with 850cc injectors. (sorry I just dont run off the lb's scale) I just have to find my fuel rails still. I want something fairly "show" quality, but I dont want all show with no go as some people build.

RawR/T
02-01-2010, 05:42 PM
Nobody here is bashing imports. They're bashing you. You shouldn't have to come out an explain yourself and write 3 pages on the import ricer scene when it wasn't even brought up to begin with. What is it you're really trying to hide??? Are you sure the 52mm turbo isn't for your DSM and not the r/t?

No I had a DSM years ago. Sold it and moved on. Right now I have my R/T and an 89 supra mk3 with 551whp on a stock bottom end. I am getting tired of the import scene as parts are always on back order and im tired of waiting for "the next run" of parts. So instead of building the bottom end with the forged internals I have waiting for a new crank (forged is on back order) I am thinking its time to move on and stop wasting time on the car and play with my truck a bit now. And no one here has blasted imports in this thread, but as I was reading thru the site, many people do blast them. And im tired of seeing everyone with a V8 talk down to me because I have built imports that smoke their V8's. And a 52mm is smaller than what I have on my supra right now. 551whp was made on a 58mm with 35psi and little lag. I have a 72mm turbo sitting to go on the car now however. The lag on that will be combated with the 250 shot on the bottom end to spool the turbo. Any more shots on what is in my car and not on my R/T???

Duner
02-01-2010, 05:52 PM
I agree, but I would rather build for 1000hp and run at 500 than build for 500 and fail at 501. Also I mistyped last night that 2 turbo's would get me 16psi at 10psi. I ment to say that 10psi on the street with 16 on the strip. I think that would be relatively safe for what im looking for. And thats a lot of ballast and weight to move down the track. When a properly tuned suspension could do the same job hooking with less weight. Making the truck that much faster. Less weight to propel means u can propel it faster. Im not trying to diminish your guys build's at all. They are sexy, but it seems that some people dont do the research into the proper function of a turbo, and understand the physics behind it. Im not buying a "kit" but rather piecing mine together. I have 2 small turbo's here already, I just have to CNC some flanges to weld up to my exhaust.. The turbo's I have are good to about 25psi and should spool incredibly fast for the exhaust volume. I also plan to run standalone and a return fuel system with an Adjustable fuel pressure reg with 850cc injectors. (sorry I just dont run off the lb's scale) I just have to find my fuel rails still. I want something fairly "show" quality, but I dont want all show with no go as some people build.

Hahahaha. You just wait until you try and hook some power up on the street in a truck with all of the weight on the front tires. It makes for some great videos! I don't carry all of the ballast down the track. All of that ballast is tools, floor jack, slicks and an ice chest that I take with me TO the track - that really makes it hook good on the street with the drag radials.

I know you haven't been here long, but it won't take you much longer to find out who knows about what. I think you'll find that most here know far more than it sounds like you are giving them credit for.

Adobedude
02-01-2010, 06:03 PM
Hahahaha. You just wait until you try and hook some power up on the street in a truck with all of the weight on the front tires. It makes for some great videos! I don't carry all of the ballast down the track. All of that ballast is tools, floor jack, slicks and an ice chest that I take with me TO the track - that really makes it hook good on the street with the drag radials.

I know you haven't been here long, but it won't take you much longer to find out who knows about what. I think you'll find that most here know far more than it sounds like you are giving them credit for.

That's why Im getting a set of 94 15" Dak rims widened up to 12". Gonna run the fattest street radial I can fit.
My 17" with RSAs on the street are a friggen joke. I can light em up at 15 mph in 3rd gear...For as long as I want.

SB440R/T
02-01-2010, 06:38 PM
I agree, but I would rather build for 1000hp and run at 500 than build for 500 and fail at 501. Also I mistyped last night that 2 turbo's would get me 16psi at 10psi. I ment to say that 10psi on the street with 16 on the strip. I think that would be relatively safe for what im looking for. And thats a lot of ballast and weight to move down the track. When a properly tuned suspension could do the same job hooking with less weight. Making the truck that much faster. Less weight to propel means u can propel it faster. Im not trying to diminish your guys build's at all. They are sexy, but it seems that some people dont do the research into the proper function of a turbo, and understand the physics behind it. Im not buying a "kit" but rather piecing mine together. I have 2 small turbo's here already, I just have to CNC some flanges to weld up to my exhaust.. The turbo's I have are good to about 25psi and should spool incredibly fast for the exhaust volume. I also plan to run standalone and a return fuel system with an Adjustable fuel pressure reg with 850cc injectors. (sorry I just dont run off the lb's scale) I just have to find my fuel rails still. I want something fairly "show" quality, but I dont want all show with no go as some people build.

You realize you are almost insulting the man running one of the best turbo build in the US on a Dakota that is street driven with A/C. He did all the work and was not part of a "kit". Has more experience here than just about anyone and could probably run circles around what you can build. Plus if you look at where he runs you would see that he has a lot more than what the numbers tell. Calm down and start to learn the people. I did the import thing and it got old cause the crowd was young and dumb. Yes they can make gobs of power, but most of the hard part, apart from AWD, is putting the power to the ground since a majority of them are FWD. So relax and learn and teach, if you can.

RTchas
02-01-2010, 07:08 PM
Since we are" learning" about Turbo builds here in my thread, I wanted to see what you all think about blow off's? I was using the cheap bosch one that came with the powerdyne "upgrade" I want to go with something better that one was $80 from summit .I know there are alot out in the market just wondering what so of you use/rec Thanks

BTW Duner Much respect I meet ya back in 2001 @ Nat's in Kanas I remember when you first put the hairdyer in the white truck poeple thought you where crazy and it would never work, well who's crazy now..

SB440R/T
02-01-2010, 07:26 PM
Since we are" learning" about Turbo builds here in my thread, I wanted to see what you all think about blow off's? I was using the cheap bosch one that came with the powerdyne "upgrade" I want to go with something better that one was $80 from summit .I know there are alot out in the market just wondering what so of you use/rec Thanks

BTW Duner Much respect I meet ya back in 2001 @ Nat's in Kanas I remember when you first put the hairdyer in the white truck poeple thought you where crazy and it would never work, well who's crazy now..

Is it a blow off valve or a bypass? I think the superchargers come with a bypass and Turbos use the Blow off valves. Not sure how well it transfers over. I upgraded my bosch valve to a Forge unit and it works well. About a 140 dollars.

sunike32
02-01-2010, 07:27 PM
No I had a DSM years ago. Sold it and moved on. Right now I have my R/T and an 89 supra mk3 with 551whp on a stock bottom end. I am getting tired of the import scene as parts are always on back order and im tired of waiting for "the next run" of parts. So instead of building the bottom end with the forged internals I have waiting for a new crank (forged is on back order) I am thinking its time to move on and stop wasting time on the car and play with my truck a bit now. And no one here has blasted imports in this thread, but as I was reading thru the site, many people do blast them. And im tired of seeing everyone with a V8 talk down to me because I have built imports that smoke their V8's. And a 52mm is smaller than what I have on my supra right now. 551whp was made on a 58mm with 35psi and little lag. I have a 72mm turbo sitting to go on the car now however. The lag on that will be combated with the 250 shot on the bottom end to spool the turbo. Any more shots on what is in my car and not on my R/T???

Apples to oranges????? Take a deep breath and relax buddy :goodluck:

Five9Dak
02-01-2010, 09:26 PM
You might have concurrently joined dakota-durango.com and are confusing them with us. :jester:

Welcome. I'm glad you didn't mean adding pressure from two compressors..... hehe.

BluRT00
02-01-2010, 09:46 PM
Great another supra owner.....:jester:

2k1AmberR/T
02-01-2010, 09:49 PM
Great another supra owner.....:jester:

It's an 89, too.

BluRT00
02-01-2010, 09:53 PM
It's an 89, too.

Even better ugh.... Waiting for that long haired hippie with a chrome bumper on his white cc R/T to chime in.

miamikoda
02-01-2010, 10:22 PM
some one is cranky :jester: i dont bash imports ricers yes but imports and 4cyl's no. i have a friend with a talon that would eat my truck alive and a buddy with an srt4 aka neon that would chew me, also im building a 2.3 turbo mustang in my spare time. im just not big into the whole addressing all guys with v8s the same like we all want to destroy imports :biggthumpup:

Adobedude
02-01-2010, 10:34 PM
some one is cranky :jester: i dont bash imports ricers yes but imports and 4cyl's no. i have a friend with a talon that would eat my truck alive and a buddy with an srt4 aka neon that would chew me, also im building a 2.3 turbo mustang in my spare time. im just not big into the whole addressing all guys with v8s the same like we all want to destroy imports :biggthumpup:

IMO...The most annoying thing I've ever heard in my life is a 4 cylinder doing a burn out....Turbos only make it worse.

White Turbo
02-01-2010, 10:55 PM
"I know you haven't been here long, but it won't take you much longer to find out who knows about what. I think you'll find that most here know far more than it sounds like you are giving them credit for."

Amen Brutha !!! :hail: :hail:

White Turbo
02-01-2010, 11:02 PM
Since we are" learning" about Turbo builds here in my thread, I wanted to see what you all think about blow off's? I was using the cheap bosch one that came with the powerdyne "upgrade" I want to go with something better that one was $80 from summit .I know there are alot out in the market just wondering what so of you use/rec Thanks

BTW Duner Much respect I meet ya back in 2001 @ Nat's in Kanas I remember when you first put the hairdyer in the white truck poeple thought you where crazy and it would never work, well who's crazy now..

I run A Tial blow off valve on my set up.

RawR/T
02-02-2010, 12:52 AM
Your BOV question is simply this. You get what you pay for. You will want to do a few things in that research. if your not running big boost or at big volumes, you can get by with a simple bosch BOV. But if your running upper boost levels you are going to want a BOV that will evac that built up pressure quick fast and in a hurry. Its just like a waste gate in an aspect. You have to match it for your needs. If your putting less than 14 psi boost out you should be able to use a relatively small BOV like you would get from Summit. If your going any higher than 14psi I would say use something like a TiAL BOV or pretty much anything U can find at Horsepowerfreaks.com They are a huge distributor of parts and can get parts for nearly any make or model. I have used them many times before and they have pretty good prices. Realistically what are your goals with that turbo setup?

RawR/T
02-02-2010, 12:55 AM
Great another supra owner.....:jester:

What is wrong with Supra's?

sunike32
02-02-2010, 01:14 AM
What is wrong with Supra's?

It's a joke towards another member...stick around n you'll catch on :biggthumpup:

RawR/T
02-02-2010, 01:30 AM
It's a joke towards another member...stick around n you'll catch on :biggthumpup:

Im not going to far, im still trying to learn a bit more about the little differences between an older 360 and the magnum 360. I want to build my project engine off a scrap block or something, just need to make sure I can use basically any 360 as a base line. Or if the head pitch is different or the lifter angle is different or little things like that. I know basics about the V8 from other builds on other vehicles, but this is my first Mopar build.

Duner
02-02-2010, 01:38 AM
Since we are" learning" about Turbo builds here in my thread, I wanted to see what you all think about blow off's? I was using the cheap bosch one that came with the powerdyne "upgrade" I want to go with something better that one was $80 from summit .I know there are alot out in the market just wondering what so of you use/rec Thanks

BTW Duner Much respect I meet ya back in 2001 @ Nat's in Kanas I remember when you first put the hairdyer in the white truck poeple thought you where crazy and it would never work, well who's crazy now..

I ran the cheap Bosch blow off valves on all of my builds. We used that same exact BOV on over 50 vehicles we turbo'd and none of them ever failed. As long as you run a filter on them you will be fine. They open to the atmosphere and suck air thru them when you are not in boost. I went with a nicer BOV when I built my last intercooler/airhat mainly because I wanted it to be a cleaner build and since they actually are a little small for this current setup. I went with a 50 mm but can't remember which manufacturer I used. I'm not sure how visible it is here, it's sitting on the cowl and not welded on yet. LOL

http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m275/stirlgirl/DUNER/IMG_5584.jpg

I had a really good time in Topeka! I formulated the plan for the turbo system on the white truck while driving home from Topeka. Everybody thought I was crazy when I said I was going to turbo a brand new truck - and be the very first one. The fact that it was a 4.7 with zero aftermarket didn't help much. People still think I'm crazy but at least I got to show them that it did work. Hahaha

RawR/T
02-02-2010, 02:06 AM
I ran the cheap Bosch blow off valves on all of my builds. We used that same exact BOV on over 50 vehicles we turbo'd and none of them ever failed. As long as you run a filter on them you will be fine. They open to the atmosphere and suck air thru them when you are not in boost. I went with a nicer BOV when I built my last intercooler/airhat mainly because I wanted it to be a cleaner build and since they actually are a little small for this current setup. I went with a 50 mm but can't remember which manufacturer I used. I'm not sure how visible it is here, it's sitting on the cowl and not welded on yet. LOL

http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m275/stirlgirl/DUNER/IMG_5584.jpg

I had a really good time in Topeka! I formulated the plan for the turbo system on the white truck while driving home from Topeka. Everybody thought I was crazy when I said I was going to turbo a brand new truck - and be the very first one. The fact that it was a 4.7 with zero aftermarket didn't help much. People still think I'm crazy but at least I got to show them that it did work. Hahaha

That looks like a TurboXS BOV. Your bov should seal when your not under boost however, keeping all the air in there. If your open under idle at all in a BOV, your likely having issues with the relief spring on that BOV or you dont have the vac lines hooked up right. A filter on that BOV will be utterly useless as filters are designed to be one way for the most part. U draw thru them, and when u blow off the excess pressure you destroy the filter elements. I plan to get a synapse BOV and waste gates for my build, but that is because I have a dealer for them that is a friend and I have got parts from them dirt cheap. If anyone wants or needs electric fans slim line 12" fans I think he still has em for like 20 or 30 ea. As opposed to the couple hundred for the FAL ones. I may be a little over cautious than u guys when building a turbo motor as I have seen first hand the effects of what poor quality and undersized parts can do to an engine. If any of you have ever watched a blower detonate on a drag strip will know what I mean by this. A bad spring in a BOV will cause boost creep, which will in turn cause a motor to blow if not properly checked fast enough. And it will blow in an epic way similar to a roots blower off a drag car. Except it will not be your intake coming lose, it will be the heads coming up or rods thru the side of your block as cylinder pressures become so great that something has to give. If anyone wants places to get good turbo parts at decent prices, let me know what you need. I have a whole list of parts dealers for turbo's. And if it will work on an import, it should by all means work on our muscle.

RawR/T
02-02-2010, 02:11 AM
I ran the cheap Bosch blow off valves on all of my builds. We used that same exact BOV on over 50 vehicles we turbo'd and none of them ever failed. As long as you run a filter on them you will be fine. They open to the atmosphere and suck air thru them when you are not in boost. I went with a nicer BOV when I built my last intercooler/airhat mainly because I wanted it to be a cleaner build and since they actually are a little small for this current setup. I went with a 50 mm but can't remember which manufacturer I used. I'm not sure how visible it is here, it's sitting on the cowl and not welded on yet. LOL

http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m275/stirlgirl/DUNER/IMG_5584.jpg

I had a really good time in Topeka! I formulated the plan for the turbo system on the white truck while driving home from Topeka. Everybody thought I was crazy when I said I was going to turbo a brand new truck - and be the very first one. The fact that it was a 4.7 with zero aftermarket didn't help much. People still think I'm crazy but at least I got to show them that it did work. Hahaha

Air to liquid intercooler right?? Cause that doesnt look Air to air at all.. I applaud your build, and originality. I thought I was doing something uncommon when I decided to try a rear mounted turbo on my dak. Now I see its not all that uncommon in essence. I do look forward to meeting some of you in the upcoming years as I am able to get out to some of the bigger shows and my truck comes together to what I want to build.

RTchas
02-02-2010, 03:00 AM
Your BOV question is simply this. You get what you pay for. You will want to do a few things in that research. if your not running big boost or at big volumes, you can get by with a simple bosch BOV. But if your running upper boost levels you are going to want a BOV that will evac that built up pressure quick fast and in a hurry. Its just like a waste gate in an aspect. You have to match it for your needs. If your putting less than 14 psi boost out you should be able to use a relatively small BOV like you would get from Summit. If your going any higher than 14psi I would say use something like a TiAL BOV or pretty much anything U can find at Horsepowerfreaks.com They are a huge distributor of parts and can get parts for nearly any make or model. I have used them many times before and they have pretty good prices. Realistically what are your goals with that turbo setup?

Real talk I will push 5psi thru this set up, but down the road I want bigger turbo and more Psi, but right now 5 is good.:D

RTchas
02-02-2010, 03:06 AM
I ran the cheap Bosch blow off valves on all of my builds. We used that same exact BOV on over 50 vehicles we turbo'd and none of them ever failed. As long as you run a filter on them you will be fine. They open to the atmosphere and suck air thru them when you are not in boost. I went with a nicer BOV when I built my last intercooler/airhat mainly because I wanted it to be a cleaner build and since they actually are a little small for this current setup. I went with a 50 mm but can't remember which manufacturer I used. I'm not sure how visible it is here, it's sitting on the cowl and not welded on yet. LOL

http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m275/stirlgirl/DUNER/IMG_5584.jpg

I had a really good time in Topeka! I formulated the plan for the turbo system on the white truck while driving home from Topeka. Everybody thought I was crazy when I said I was going to turbo a brand new truck - and be the very first one. The fact that it was a 4.7 with zero aftermarket didn't help much. People still think I'm crazy but at least I got to show them that it did work. Hahaha
Good to know that my cheapie Bosch will do for now. Could your good time have been due to Gene's Mopar Mogo Juice?:beer:

RTchas
02-02-2010, 03:32 AM
So next step is off to Powder Coater for ceramic coat on Exhaust pipes.These pics are of mock up of the discharge side pipes to Airhat. I went over the frame under cab ,removed frt wheel tub and ran up next to fender under evaporator can.Called in order for 4ply silcone hose's and T-clamps it's getting closer..:D
http://i808.photobucket.com/albums/zz4/rtchas/Truck%20pics/sts015.jpg (http://s808.photobucket.com/user/rtchas/media/Truck%20pics/sts015.jpg.html)



http://i808.photobucket.com/albums/zz4/rtchas/Truck%20pics/sts018.jpg (http://s808.photobucket.com/user/rtchas/media/Truck%20pics/sts018.jpg.html)


http://i808.photobucket.com/albums/zz4/rtchas/Truck%20pics/IMG_20120801_194201.jpg (http://s808.photobucket.com/user/rtchas/media/Truck%20pics/IMG_20120801_194201.jpg.html)






http://i808.photobucket.com/albums/zz4/rtchas/Truck%20pics/IMG_20120712_192703.jpg (http://s808.photobucket.com/user/rtchas/media/Truck%20pics/IMG_20120712_192703.jpg.html)

http://i808.photobucket.com/albums/zz4/rtchas/Truck%20pics/IMG_20120510_233258.jpg (http://s808.photobucket.com/user/rtchas/media/Truck%20pics/IMG_20120510_233258.jpg.html)

Duner
02-02-2010, 12:36 PM
That looks like a TurboXS BOV. Your bov should seal when your not under boost however, keeping all the air in there. If your open under idle at all in a BOV, your likely having issues with the relief spring on that BOV or you dont have the vac lines hooked up right. A filter on that BOV will be utterly useless as filters are designed to be one way for the most part. U draw thru them, and when u blow off the excess pressure you destroy the filter elements.

Go back and re-read what I said. The Bosch BOV remains open when not in boost. If you don't run the filter, it sucks air/dirt thru it and THEN it doesn't seal under boost. It does NOT destroy the filters.



If any of you have ever watched a blower detonate on a drag strip will know what I mean by this. A bad spring in a BOV will cause boost creep, which will in turn cause a motor to blow if not properly checked fast enough. And it will blow in an epic way similar to a roots blower off a drag car.

You are mixing up terminologies and engine types.

A bad BOV does not cause boost creep. It's the job of the wastegate to control boost pressures and the job of the BOV simply to vent that boost when you lift off the throttle. The "Fuel" engines run Nitro, and that fuel continues to burn for quite some time at a very high temp. Those blower detonations you are talking about are usually from a warped or bent valves or a bad spark plug and don't have anything to do with the BOVs that those cars do not have. We blew blowers off our fuel motors from bent/warped valves and from little things like a bad spark plug. We had to replace all 16 spark plugs every time we ran the engine to operating temp. If not.... the chance of it going BOOM was too great. If a valve hangs or a plug misfires when the intake valve is open, it lights the entire manifold/blower assembly and is gone.

Detonation in a turbo engine is usually caused from a lean condition, too much timing advance or too high of IATs or a combo of all of the above with too poor of fuel. There are other things that will cause it also, but those are the biggies.

My advise is to go ahead and ask questions on this forum. There's a lot of really cool people on this site that are genuinely helpful when you have questions. It's OK to not know everything, but it's not OK to try and make everyone think you do when you don't. And yes, there are 500 different ways to do everything - and most of the time we WON'T do it like the import crowd.

Duner
02-02-2010, 12:41 PM
So next step is off to Powder Coater for ceramic coat on Exhaust pipes.These pics are of mock up of the discharge side pipes to Airhat. I went over the frame under cab ,removed frt wheel tub and ran up next to fender under evaporator can.Called in order for 4ply silcone hose's and T-clamps it's getting closer..:D

That stuff looks real good there Chas.... sorry for the partial thread-jack! I'm looking forward to reading about how it all runs and knowing how much more fun the truck will be from that point forward.

I actually had my entire system off for a couple of weeks and was under the truck looking at re-doing it as a remote system. My main goal was to move more of the weight off the nose of the truck to see if I could get the weight bias better. I ended up putting the system back on the truck as-is afterall.

dakrt23
02-02-2010, 05:11 PM
Air to liquid intercooler right?? Cause that doesnt look Air to air at all.. I applaud your build, and originality. I thought I was doing something uncommon when I decided to try a rear mounted turbo on my dak. Now I see its not all that uncommon in essence. I do look forward to meeting some of you in the upcoming years as I am able to get out to some of the bigger shows and my truck comes together to what I want to build.

I am anxious to see where you go with your build, i know some people were a little hot about the whole import thing but i think it will be good to bring a different view point, different experience, different ideas to a remote turbo install for these trucks... if you can lay down some rwhp numbers that make us all go "ooooooohhhhh ok" then more props to you...

i for one will be watching closely as i want to take the best ideas and experiences from each of these remote turbo builds and put it all into my own plan for a 408/turbo setup next year...

2k1AmberR/T
02-02-2010, 05:16 PM
Duner sitting people down...don't get to see that too often. Sometimes it takes a 1053hp engine with an owner that just can't take a hint I guess. :hail:

(wtb more duner/Ed/Chris Orlando informative posts on a somewhat regular basis)

Sorry for this mess, Chas, I also think your piping looks pretty good especially considering you said you aren't a seasoned welding veteran, I can't wait to see how it turns out after being coated and have a few questions. What's the reasoning for coating the exhaust piping? I know it sucks not really being able to get a camera far enough away from the under carriage to take pictures to show...but it looks like there's quite a few bends in the system, I'm guessing you had reasons to pick the spot you picked for your turbo placement but what exactly got in the way of the exhaust piping for that little kink toward the middle? I can't picture it and I'm baffled. And where is the air filter located once everything is in place, I see you've extended it out from the turbo inlet...looks pretty good.

Thank you for keeping us posted on your progress, I knew this would be a good thread from the start. With the turbo guru that knows everything because his supra has 500hp (like that's hard to do?) is gone hopefully it won't be derailed any more...

dakrt23
02-02-2010, 05:24 PM
We had to replace all 16 spark plugs every time we ran the engine to operating temp. If not.... the chance of it going BOOM was too great.

i have heard that by about the 1/8th mile the fuel motors are dieseling along from the melted spark plugs acting like glow plugs

ChrisR/T
02-02-2010, 06:51 PM
There is no street car out there with a 400+ hp that is going to hook on the street.


Really? Would you like place a large sum of money bet on this? I'm sure I could find more than a few 400hp cars that hook up on the street.

Getting 350wtrq to hook on the street wasn't tough in my Dakota. Old school super-stock racer told me how. (And they HAVE to run leaf springs.) You'd be surprised at what removing the front sway bar, adding a set of tires and removing and replacing some spring clamps can do.

And no, I wasn't on a slick. I was on a D.O.T approved 275-40-17 BFG Drag Radial.

No, I wasn't making 400hp. I was making in the neighborhood of 325. But the truck dead hooked everytime. It was consistent and many members can attest to it. Some even got to watch the ingloriousness of it's street racing days.

White Turbo
02-02-2010, 07:40 PM
i have heard that by about the 1/8th mile the fuel motors are dieseling along from the melted spark plugs acting like glow plugs

That's very true...
That's also one common cause of "dropping a cylinder" (cylinder not firing) in top fuel.

Duner
02-02-2010, 07:49 PM
i have heard that by about the 1/8th mile the fuel motors are dieseling along from the melted spark plugs acting like glow plugs

Once they get fired up and at full song - you can remove the magnetos and they continue to run. The only way to stop them is to cut the fuel off.

miamikoda
02-02-2010, 09:18 PM
this is an awesome setup, makes me sad with my rt haha might have to sell my project and work on the truck more. looking very good man :hail:

RawR/T
02-02-2010, 10:15 PM
Really? Would you like place a large sum of money bet on this? I'm sure I could find more than a few 400hp cars that hook up on the street.

Getting 350wtrq to hook on the street wasn't tough in my Dakota. Old school super-stock racer told me how. (And they HAVE to run leaf springs.) You'd be surprised at what removing the front sway bar, adding a set of tires and removing and replacing some spring clamps can do.

And no, I wasn't on a slick. I was on a D.O.T approved 275-40-17 BFG Drag Radial.

No, I wasn't making 400hp. I was making in the neighborhood of 325. But the truck dead hooked everytime. It was consistent and many members can attest to it. Some even got to watch the ingloriousness of it's street racing days.

Well let me rephrase that. Not many 400whp vehicles are going to dead hook on the street. There is also a huge difference between 325whp and 400whp. Removal of the front sway bar is a common drag racing practice. Most people use a detachable sway bar end link so that way you get better weight transfer. Im not saying its impossable to hook on the street with 400whp, but its not easy, and most people never quite get that right.

The waste gate in the pic I commented about being a TurboXS was not a Bosch. Infact in the statement it was said to be an off brand waiting to be welded on.

Next Why would you ever have a BOV that opens at idle? Most all turbo vehicles that dont use bypass valves will NEVER open at idle. Any aftermarket BOV stays closed at idle and requires more vac than idle produces to open. The bosch BOV (without part number I cant say for sure) is likely a bypass valve designed to recirculate into the inlet pipe between the turbo and air filter if its opening at an IDLE. My supra's OEM was a bosch that did just that, but after an aftermarket was installed it never opened at idle. And again, the filter issue is that filters are designed to draw air thru, not push air out. So venting a BOV into them will damage the filter element when that boost pressure blows out thru there.

Sorry for thread jacking, but your build looks great so far. I cant wait to see the final product.

Ceramic coating the pipes are to help keep temperatures down, and cool the pipes faster. It also helps for flow. Smoother and less restrictive. Ceramic coating is generally done on headers and turbo mani's. Then people will generally wrap the headers for more heat restriction.

Another great book that helps answer a lot of questions is Street Turbocharging by Mark Warner P.E. Picked it up at Borders a while back and it gives you all the math and science behind turbo charging anything.

Duner
02-02-2010, 10:29 PM
The waste gate in the pic I commented about being a TurboXS was not a Bosch. Infact in the statement it was said to be an off brand waiting to be welded on.

Next Why would you ever have a BOV that opens at idle? Most all turbo vehicles that dont use bypass valves will NEVER open at idle. Any aftermarket BOV stays closed at idle and requires more vac than idle produces to open. The bosch BOV (without part number I cant say for sure) is likely a bypass valve designed to recirculate into the inlet pipe between the turbo and air filter if its opening at an IDLE. My supra's OEM was a bosch that did just that, but after an aftermarket was installed it never opened at idle. And again, the filter issue is that filters are designed to draw air thru, not push air out. So venting a BOV into them will damage the filter element when that boost pressure blows out thru there.



Uggghhhh.

I can see that reading comprehension, part function/identification and/or lack there of is an issue. Good luck with your build and your Supra.
I'm done threadjacking this thread.

RawR/T
02-02-2010, 11:09 PM
Uggghhhh.

I can see that reading comprehension, part function/identification and/or lack there of is an issue. Good luck with your build and your Supra.
I'm done threadjacking this thread.

Sorry not wastegate, it was supposed to be BOV. Not enough sleep right now and not thinking completely. But the BOV looked like a turboXS BOV not bosch. The one u stated needed to be welded on to the air box.

White Turbo
02-02-2010, 11:17 PM
Uggghhhh.

I can see that reading comprehension, part function/identification and/or lack there of is an issue. Good luck with your build and your Supra.
I'm done threadjacking this thread.

LMFAO !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :jester:

UUUUUUUUUGGGGGGGGGGGGHHHHHHHHHHH

AAAAAAAAARRRRRRRRRRRRRRGGGGGGGGGGG....

Damn Dune ! You gave it your best shot ! Us turbo guys better RUN and DUCK for cover.... Cuz there's a NEW sheriff in town. :D

RawR/T
02-02-2010, 11:29 PM
LMFAO !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :jester:

UUUUUUUUUGGGGGGGGGGGGHHHHHHHHHHH

AAAAAAAAARRRRRRRRRRRRRRGGGGGGGGGGG....

Damn Dune ! You gave it your best shot ! Us turbo guys better RUN and DUCK for cover.... Cuz there's a NEW sheriff in town. :D

Actually im not saying he is wrong, and not saying I know everything. Im trying to understand why a sealed system like the intake system would need an opening at a blow off valve? I have not done a turbo V8 before, so I am failing to understand why that would work. Im actually trying to understand the physics about his setup. It just doesnt seem right to me, and would love to understand how it works. Not trying to bash his setup but learn something different by pickin his brain to better understand the setup.

Adobedude
02-03-2010, 12:10 AM
LMFAO !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :jester:

UUUUUUUUUGGGGGGGGGGGGHHHHHHHHHHH

AAAAAAAAARRRRRRRRRRRRRRGGGGGGGGGGG....

Damn Dune ! You gave it your best shot ! Us turbo guys better RUN and DUCK for cover.... Cuz there's a NEW sheriff in town. :D

DAMN...
Where's RT4U2N or whatever he calls himself, he'd know.

White Turbo
02-03-2010, 12:31 AM
Actually im not saying he is wrong, and not saying I know everything. Im trying to understand why a sealed system like the intake system would need an opening at a blow off valve? I have not done a turbo V8 before, so I am failing to understand why that would work. Im actually trying to understand the physics about his setup. It just doesnt seem right to me, and would love to understand how it works. Not trying to bash his setup but learn something different by pickin his brain to better understand the setup.

RAW:

Go back and re-read your first few posts. It sure sounded to me like you "knew everything".
You have got wastegates, blow-off valves, and by-pass valve all ass backwards.
Duner tried to explain, but you didn't get it.
Go back and read again... And then go read the book that you refered us all to.
When folks post inaccurate, or misleading info on the web, it confuses other folks who also want to learn.
Right now I don't have the patience to explain "turbo 101" to you. And you have worn out Duner's welcome as well.
Get some sleep... And when your fresh minded, come back and read what other owners of T/C'd V-8 Dakota R/Ts have done and ALREADY KNOW.
By then we will have cooled down enough to talk to you.

AND.... stop this jacking of Chas' post. We've trampled it enough IMO.
I won't respond here to any more posts from ya OK? If you want to continue this,,, we can start a new thread in Flame Wars.


Sorry Chas... Your remote turbo set up looks pretty cool ! Thanks for the pics and keep us updated!

"Now back to our regularly scheduled programming".

Intense RT
02-03-2010, 12:57 AM
If someone wants, I think I could put a coated pipe on a flowbench here locally and compare it to a non coated one. :jester:

Surface texture as rough as a cyl head casting will only give you maybe 1% more flow if smoothed, but most here should know that is not the texture you ideally want. A smooth walled bare pipe vs a coated one...lol. Coating has it's uses...flow is not one of them.

RawR/T
02-03-2010, 01:58 AM
If someone wants, I think I could put a coated pipe on a flowbench here locally and compare it to a non coated one. :jester:

Surface texture as rough as a cyl head casting will only give you maybe 1% more flow if smoothed, but most here should know that is not the texture you ideally want. A smooth walled bare pipe vs a coated one...lol. Coating has it's uses...flow is not one of them.

Although I could go on about that for a bit, I agree its not fair to jack the thread. The pipes would be coated to keep the temperatures down underhood and help in heat dissipation. When working with turbo's you get extremely hot conditions, and the hotter the better for turbo's for the most part. It helps the turbo's hot side flow better. Part of the reason builders wrap the coated pipes to the turbo, and use a blanket on the hot end of the turbo.

Intense RT
02-03-2010, 02:02 AM
Although I could go on about that for a bit, I agree its not fair to jack the thread. The pipes would be coated to keep the temperatures down underhood and help in heat dissipation. When working with turbo's you get extremely hot conditions, and the hotter the better for turbo's for the most part. It helps the turbo's hot side flow better. Part of the reason builders wrap the coated pipes to the turbo, and use a blanket on the hot end of the turbo.Please do. Perhaps begin a new thread an inform us.

RTchas
02-03-2010, 02:04 AM
[
QUOTE]
Duner sitting people down...don't get to see that too often. Sometimes it takes a 1053hp engine with an owner that just can't take a hint I guess. :hail:
To Funny I was thinking the same thing!:jester:



I'm guessing you had reasons to pick the spot you picked for your turbo placement but what exactly got in the way of the exhaust piping for that little kink toward the middle? I can't picture it and I'm baffled. And where is the air filter located once everything is in place, I see you've extended it out from the turbo inlet...looks pretty good.

Good eye glad you asked I had the local Midas bend the straight pipe over from collector about 4" to put me right where the muffler hangs this way I was able to mount the turbo straight toward the front of the truck using stk hangers.That bend also allowed me to come out of the turbo with 3" pipe and clear the driveshaft .With the extension the Air filter is in the pocket between the cab and wheel tub. less chance of rain, dirt, small wildlife getting at it.. The ceramic coat is for protection and looks pretty I show the truck often plus it's supposed to run cooler..

Five9Dak
02-03-2010, 02:36 AM
Keep up the good work!

Intense RT
02-03-2010, 02:58 AM
Looks like it's coming along well and I'm sure the results will be satisfying. You know you'll want more later though. You're project will probably start some wheels turning in the ol noggin' here too. Drop the 408's compression.....

Kryp2nitE
02-05-2010, 07:10 PM
Chas what are you planning for an intercooler?

Sorry if i missed it in another post.

RTchas
02-05-2010, 08:43 PM
Chas what are you planning for an intercooler?


One of the supposed advantage's of rear mount is the cooling afect of all the piping going back to the throttle body. So they claim....

RawR/T
02-06-2010, 10:51 AM
One of the supposed advantage's of rear mount is the cooling afect of all the piping going back to the throttle body. So they claim....

I have seen various numbers on that, and it really depends on the routing of the pipes to the intake. Vette's have a remote mount kit that is 90% efficient to drop temps like an intercooler. With as much room as is under the truck tho, u should easily be able to bleed off enough heat with aluminum tubes for the cold side, and wrapping the exhaust anywhere near where the 2 come close. That also helps reduce pressure drop in the system as well. Are you planning to put a "diaper" on your turbo's hot side too? To keep the heat in the exhaust wheel? The pix that show turbo's on here I have seen thus far only have had a simple heat shield at best, no actual wrap/diaper on the turbo itself. Are you also going to be ceramic coating all of the tubes from the head to the turbo?

RTchas
02-06-2010, 09:18 PM
I have seen various numbers on that, and it really depends on the routing of the pipes to the intake. Vette's have a remote mount kit that is 90% efficient to drop temps like an intercooler. With as much room as is under the truck tho, u should easily be able to bleed off enough heat with aluminum tubes for the cold side, and wrapping the exhaust anywhere near where the 2 come close. That also helps reduce pressure drop in the system as well. Are you planning to put a "diaper" on your turbo's hot side too? To keep the heat in the exhaust wheel? The pix that show turbo's on here I have seen thus far only have had a simple heat shield at best, no actual wrap/diaper on the turbo itself. Are you also going to be ceramic coating all of the tubes from the head to the turbo?

The" Diaper" is one thing I've seen but dont know much about. Not sure how it might affect warranty on Turbo either? I'm not sure just yet about coating the discharge side pipes yet I still may but it's going to cost more$ and right now I would be happy Spray Painting them, BTW I am using steel pipe for now due to cost and fabrication of mounts(welding tabs to hang) I want to do aluminum in the future I have small 12" section close to the header I might wrap up to keep temp down.

RawR/T
02-07-2010, 06:31 AM
The" Diaper" is one thing I've seen but dont know much about. Not sure how it might affect warranty on Turbo either? I'm not sure just yet about coating the discharge side pipes yet I still may but it's going to cost more$ and right now I would be happy Spray Painting them, BTW I am using steel pipe for now due to cost and fabrication of mounts(welding tabs to hang) I want to do aluminum in the future I have small 12" section close to the header I might wrap up to keep temp down.

Turbo diapers only cover the outside, so it should not void any warranty. What sized tubes are you running up to the intake? As for hangers for them, why not mock it all up, mark where your hangers need to be, then take em to someone to have them weld them on for you? I have done that more than once as I dont have the right welder available at home for aluminum and im to cheap to put in another 220v outlet for it. If your going to color the pipes, I would recommend powder coating them over rattle can.

RTchas
02-09-2010, 03:04 AM
Okay I will think about the diaper, Im on a budget (LOL) you wouldnt know it the way I am spending $ none the less, I have to cut so cost and coating pipes or using Aluminum is not in the card's at this time. So rattle can it is and I will weld tabs on my steel 2" pipes. I know its not the "best" way but it will have to do for now.If I hit the lotto I will build all Aluminum with intercooler new head gaskets and -10An return lines, big blow off and ceramic-chrome everything:biggthumpup: For now its what I got.

RTchas
02-09-2010, 03:14 AM
Tonite I worked on Piping to Airhat. I welded up some 3" pipe and fit my plastic wheel tube I got @ the Junkyard.

RawR/T
02-10-2010, 01:03 AM
Tonite I worked on Piping to Airhat. I welded up some 3" pipe and fit my plastic wheel tube I got @ the Junkyard.

http://www.horsepowerfreaks.com/partdetails/Thermotec/Turbos/Turbo_Accessories/Turbo_Wrap/3907

The diapers arent to bad cost wise. Then intercooler piping/aluminum tubing isnt very bad either depending on the size your using. I love the work your going, it looks great thus far. I cant wait to see the final product. Personally I would want the aluminum tubes however that are mandrel bent so keep flow rates up. But I know each person has to go with what they have, and what they can afford too. My biggest question (as I have yet to find something aftermarket for this truck) will your OEM radiator support the heat a turbo engine will put out? I am going to fabricate something up for mine to use a spare aluminum radiator out of my old supra and then use a huge oil cooler to keep the trans cool. Im also running dual 12" electric fans too. I have a friend who sells JVTR 12" puller fans dirt cheap, so if you or anyone else for that matter need em let me know and I will get you my guys info for em. I think I paid 30 bux each for my 12" puller fans.

Intense RT
02-10-2010, 01:13 AM
Tonite I worked on Piping to Airhat. I welded up some 3" pipe and fit my plastic wheel tube I got @ the Junkyard.Hey, what happened to the shop light!:jester: Hard to see.

PHILLYRT
02-17-2010, 09:25 AM
Chas Your Camera Sucks..... What Did You Find It In Someones Trash? Btw Thanks For Calling Me Back Bitch...lol If It Doesnt Snow On Friday I Think Me And Brown Are Hittin The Junk Yard And The Fiberglass Shop If You Get Out Of Work Early Enough.

01dakotaR/T
02-19-2010, 12:26 AM
any more progress on this?? i would like to see what kind of power you make.

RTchas
02-20-2010, 04:52 AM
any more progress on this?? i would like to see what kind of power you make.:umno:

Well the Pipes are ready for pick up but I won't be getting them until next week.So it is in holding fase right now.

RTchas
03-04-2010, 05:13 AM
Pipes are done and installed with turbo working on charge side and wastegate, then button up wiring and fire this bitch!:woot:

SB440R/T
03-04-2010, 12:10 PM
Pipes are done and installed with turbo working on charge side and wastegate, then button up wiring and fire this bitch!:woot:

When you going to go run that shittzle?

01dakotaR/T
03-04-2010, 01:03 PM
Pipes are done and installed with turbo working on charge side and wastegate, then button up wiring and fire this bitch!:woot:


nice! get to work:D

RTchas
03-05-2010, 06:04 AM
Work almost done!

RTchas
03-05-2010, 06:06 AM
Wire in the return pump and VAROOM!

BluRT00
03-05-2010, 03:27 PM
Things looking sexy...:biggthumpup:

01dakotaR/T
03-05-2010, 03:28 PM
looking good. do you happen to know what size the exhaust housing is on that turbo?

RTchas
03-05-2010, 04:20 PM
looking good. do you happen to know what size the exhaust housing is on that turbo?

68mm thats what I was told not sure where that comes from?

01dakotaR/T
03-05-2010, 06:35 PM
68mm thats what I was told not sure where that comes from?

thats not the exhaust housing. that should be the inlet. the exhaust housing should be stamped with a number like .60 A/R for example.

blackknight
03-06-2010, 12:31 AM
nice setup, my friend was just here at my house and he is into imports, anyway he was asking me when we were going to turbo charge my dak , my question is if we have LT headers can we run them with a turbo ? i am really interested in doing this to my dak since its already built a little w/ spray can you make a write up on this install , not to take your ideas but i love the sound. TIA:hail::hail::drive:




cant wait to see a vid of this truck

dakfink
03-06-2010, 07:15 AM
Actually im not saying he is wrong, and not saying I know everything. Im trying to understand why a sealed system like the intake system would need an opening at a blow off valve? I have not done a turbo V8 before, so I am failing to understand why that would work. Im actually trying to understand the physics about his setup. It just doesnt seem right to me, and would love to understand how it works. Not trying to bash his setup but learn something different by pickin his brain to better understand the setup.

DUDE!!

Welcome to the site, BUT throttle back a BIT!!!

No need to step in defending yourself right off the bat.

Believe me !!I catch hell enough around here for Mentioning Fords, Imports, and Other brands quite often. But I also learn as much as I share.

And I've been around the R/T crowd probably as long as anyone!!

I have a few Off brands vehicles Myself to Include a Plymouth Laser (IE Eclipse) and a Mercedes, and If I have my way will have a Crossfire in a year or so?

Just a Hint of advice. Share and debate what you know first had or have on Hand references from known Pro's (usually from books).

I know a lot about both sides of the Field. Mopars and Imports and Fords. BUT I also have this thing called CRS (can't remember shit) so I have to bounce stuff off others or reference my reading material.

Like a few have said; get to know the crowd before you assume some one doesn't know shit.

Especially someone like Duner!! Yeah he may be playing with some Crude methods of Boost BUT the shit works and he has the Knowledge and Patients to make it work very well. And his Dak isn't his only adventure down the Boosted Highway!!

And to let you know!!! He plays Nice at this site!!! I know him on other sites that we both frequent and he isn't such a NICE GUY over there!!! But that is a different crowd too, You can't be nice there or they will eat you alive!!

dakfink
03-06-2010, 07:28 AM
68mm thats what I was told not sure where that comes from?

Sorry about the previous Thread Jacking!!

Sure wish I had caught this thread earlier!!

I could have given you some great references to keep your Enthusiasm and Belief in a rear Turbo set-up working!!!

Let me put it this way!!! There are a few in the 10.5 and Outlaw ranks that have tried it and the only reason the went back to the Front Mount is because they made too much power and the added weight in the rear they couldn't keep the front end on the ground!! That alone should tell you when done RIGHT they work very well!!

Coating as much as you can afford always helps.

And I would not over look an Intercooler as well. Yes the long piping helps keep things cool, BUT any time you can cool the charge even more allows you to run that much more timing which in turn will make more power as well. (of course up to a point).

OK I know what your thinking now?! Intercoolers are EXPENSIVE as hell!!

Ask Duner who it is on E-bay that has them Cheap!!!! Something like CRX or CSX??? I can't remember. But he has used them and put 20+psi through them with no issues and I bought 2 of them for $200ea that are suppose to be good for 1200hp ea.

One of the few E-Bay finds that is Cheap and Decent quality.

Everything looks good so far!!!

Good Job!!

RTchas
03-06-2010, 01:09 PM
[,
my question is if we have LT headers can we run them with a turbo ? i am really interested in doing this to my dak since its already built a little w/ spray can you make a write up on this install , not to take your ideas but i love the sound.




Sure any headers will work stock manifolds too. I think a right up is asking alot I can't always find time to post what I post now,LOL but I would answer any question you got and many Good Dudes on here will do the same thats whats so great about this Club!And if you want Vid's check You tube under turbo Dak ! Good Luck

RTchas
03-06-2010, 01:19 PM
Coating as much as you can afford always helps.

I did what I could on my own with VHT ceramic and a woodstove to cure it! LOL I just could not put out more $ or time would be two weeks or better for turn around on Charge pipes.


And I would not over look an Intercooler as well. Yes the long piping helps keep things cool, BUT any time you can cool the charge even more allows you to run that much more timing which in turn will make more power as well. (of course up to a point).Yes I hear anytime you squeeze air it gets Hot so I do think it will help just not in budget right now but I think I will have a spot for it down the road!



Everything looks good so far!!!

Good Job!![/QUOTE]

Thanks I take pride in my ride and did things the best I know how with what I have and a small budget/shop no lift bad light and woodstove for heat LOL it works and Im happy so far!

RTchas
03-06-2010, 01:20 PM
:woot:IT"S ALIVE!!:burnout:

blackknight
03-06-2010, 02:55 PM
thanks Chas i appreciate you help

RTchas
03-07-2010, 04:08 AM
Well I put the rubber to the road today! Ran @ idle to cure pipes and check all oil fitting's last nite.Today with all bolts checked and oil lines looking good and dry, I dropped the jack stands and hit the street! I'm pulling timing even thou I have 93 in it and Octane boost til I get LM2 installed.

First off this thing is LOUD! Like header muffler Loud! But you can hear the Turbo coming in under boost and the Turbo XS RFL Blow off must have that name RFL because it's Really F%cking Loud! So I went around the block and saw a friend of mine he rolls to same 4 way intersection as me and throws the Light'm up sign @ me! I didn't want to do it but I did jump into it from a roll and Holy Crap Lag? What Lag! After that I drove about 1/4 mile through neighborhood and hitting it from a stop I felt it start to break up when it came into boost before shifts?The temp was around 210.Ran smooth otherwise. I'm not sure if its my plugs having spark blow out?Have to check Gap any one think MSD needs more gap? Or could it be I'm hitting Rev Limiter? I quick let out of it cause it scared me, I wasn't looking at RPM'S so not sure bout rev's. I have 24 grand and never did cap and rotor so I'm going to start there might have gotten damp while it was sitting for last 3 months.

Funny thing when I left my friends house after it cooled I was alittle hard on it and it hit Boost thru 2-3 felt Strong! No problems ? Two blocks later it was popping and breaking up again? When I was cruising easy it was fine no problem seems like every time it is under a Load it breaks up? So Any thoughts??? Duner? Anyone?

Five9Dak
03-07-2010, 11:46 AM
Take the gap down to .022," get a tune up on her stat.

Without much information, it's just as likely a rich misfire as it is "blowing out spark." But it can't hurt to freshen it up and take the gap down for starters. Get that wideband on it!

White Turbo
03-07-2010, 12:32 PM
Get an A/F reading and go from there.

My plugs are gapped at .035

RTchas
03-07-2010, 01:42 PM
I have to get the Scan Disk for the LM2 dont know what that is or where I get one ,but once thats aquired I am going to throw it on the truck. I just listed my house for sale so I got alot going on. When I have time I will check cap and plugs .I hope its that simple cause otherwise she feels strong and wants to GO!

LITNGETR
03-07-2010, 02:12 PM
I have to get the Scan Disk for the LM2 dont know what that is or where I get one ,but once thats aquired I am going to throw it on the truck. I just listed my house for sale so I got alot going on. When I have time I will check cap and plugs .I hope its that simple cause otherwise she feels strong and wants to GO!

SD memory card. Same as used in a camera.

BryanRT360
03-07-2010, 03:16 PM
my lm2 came with the card

Aves
03-07-2010, 05:32 PM
I have to get the Scan Disk for the LM2 dont know what that is or where I get one ,but once thats aquired I am going to throw it on the truck. I just listed my house for sale so I got alot going on. When I have time I will check cap and plugs .I hope its that simple cause otherwise she feels strong and wants to GO!

Save your receipt when you buy the cards. Took me forever to find one that works with the Lm-2. It seems to like the older slow chips. The one I finally found that worked with it was The Office Max brand one.

Troy

RTchas
03-07-2010, 10:02 PM
I changed cap&rotor and found a lose ground that seemed to work truck was smoother and then I drove it , cold it was fine. I hit 5 lbs real fast pulled like a raped ape had my friend with me he was impressed we went for 3 WOT blasts and thing ran great .I was heading home and it stumbled as it was getting into boost again! Then ever time I saw the gauge go into boost POP stumble miss fire? WTF I am going to change the plugs now but could this be Lean/rich condition? My friend is a Nissan Tech and he was baffled (not big performance guy) But I am stumped could FMU be screwed up? I dunno?

Duner
03-07-2010, 10:14 PM
I changed cap&rotor and found a lose ground that seemed to work truck was smoother and then I drove it , cold it was fine. I hit 5 lbs real fast pulled like a raped ape had my friend with me he was impressed we went for 3 WOT blasts and thing ran great .I was heading home and it stumbled as it was getting into boost again! Then ever time I saw the gauge go into boost POP stumble miss fire? WTF I am going to change the plugs now but could this be Lean/rich condition? My friend is a Nissan Tech and he was baffled (not big performance guy) But I am stumped could FMU be screwed up? I dunno?

What did you do to protect the MAP sensor?

SB440R/T
03-07-2010, 11:21 PM
I changed cap&rotor and found a lose ground that seemed to work truck was smoother and then I drove it , cold it was fine. I hit 5 lbs real fast pulled like a raped ape had my friend with me he was impressed we went for 3 WOT blasts and thing ran great .I was heading home and it stumbled as it was getting into boost again! Then ever time I saw the gauge go into boost POP stumble miss fire? WTF I am going to change the plugs now but could this be Lean/rich condition? My friend is a Nissan Tech and he was baffled (not big performance guy) But I am stumped could FMU be screwed up? I dunno?

What tuning are you running?

RTchas
03-08-2010, 04:20 AM
What did you do to protect the MAP sensor?

Ummm? I didnt! I know I saw a post by you on that way back.. I did change the plugs and they looked a little orange in color.

New plugs no change once it hits running temp around 180-190 I get stumble ever time it hit boost?

Could It be leaning out due to loss of fuel? I need to test it with a gauge right?What should I see with the FMU psi wise? Would the LM2 catch this condition? I will say that when it is cold I get 5 lbs and it pulls its ASS OFF I am impressed so far with how strong it runs with timing pulled too!

RTchas
03-08-2010, 04:23 AM
What tuning are you running?

Im Mopar Performance PCM tune. LOL! with MSD BTM Pulling max timing!

dakfink
03-08-2010, 07:20 AM
Your pegging the MAP sensor!!!

As Duner said!! If your going to go that route you have to protect the MAP from Boost. It was not designed to deal with pressure.

Use a one-way check valve that bleeds off the Pressure.

Or you could use SplitSecond's programmable MAP sensor. I forget the actual designation for it.

Personally I'd spend the $400-500 and go with SCT!!!

Duner
03-08-2010, 12:13 PM
Ummm? I didnt! I know I saw a post by you on that way back.. I did change the plugs and they looked a little orange in color.

New plugs no change once it hits running temp around 180-190 I get stumble ever time it hit boost?

Could It be leaning out due to loss of fuel? I need to test it with a gauge right?What should I see with the FMU psi wise? Would the LM2 catch this condition? I will say that when it is cold I get 5 lbs and it pulls its ASS OFF I am impressed so far with how strong it runs with timing pulled too!

When it warms up and the whole system is warmed up - it makes boost easier and earlier. If you make boost at part throttle and you are not at WOT when the MAP sensor gets the boost - the PCM will get confused and it will "chug" as a result. As Dakfink said - you need to run a check-valve to vent the boost and keep it from getting to the MAP sensor. Hitting the stock MAP sensor with boost repeatedly will damage it.

RTchas
03-08-2010, 05:08 PM
Okay I will run the check vavle before I do anything more where do I find one of these one way vavles? Home Depot have them or Autozone? And where was your write up on this Duner did I read it here or Dak Dur? It was some time ago i saw it you had pics posted too was a good read I did see it just slipped my mind with all I had going on. Thanks for the info I knew I could count on this Forum for help! You Guys Rock!:rockwoot:

Duner
03-08-2010, 05:42 PM
Okay I will run the check vavle before I do anything more where do I find one of these one way vavles? Home Depot have them or Autozone? And where was your write up on this Duner did I read it here or Dak Dur? It was some time ago i saw it you had pics posted too was a good read I did see it just slipped my mind with all I had going on. Thanks for the info I knew I could count on this Forum for help! You Guys Rock!:rockwoot:

Just add a short bit of vacuum line from the TB to the MAP sensor. Cut the line in half and put a "T" in the line. Then add a one-way check valve to the open part of the "T". Orient the check valve so it seals in vacuum but vents boost to keep it from reaching the MAP. At wide open throttle the MAP gets no boost and the PCM sees it as zero vacuum. I use the large check valves that are typically for power brake boosts. They vent much faster and make the transition to boost very smooth.

http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m275/stirlgirl/DUNER/P6070354.jpg

Five9Dak
03-09-2010, 01:09 AM
Just out of curiosity, what is the degree/psi that the "max" setting respresents on the BTM?

Duner
03-09-2010, 01:23 AM
Just out of curiosity, what is the degree/psi that the "max" setting respresents on the BTM?

It's my understanding that the max the BTM can pull is 15° of timing.
So 1° per # of boost and it would be maxxed out at 15 psi of boost.
Since the dial goes to "3", it could pull the full 15° with only 5 psi of boost. I don't know that I have ever turned mine past "1". I generally leave it turned off.

RTchas
03-09-2010, 02:56 AM
Thanks Duner you Have forgoten more than I know about Turbo Dak's! :jester:

blackpearl99
03-19-2010, 11:13 PM
That is awesom I realy like the rear mount turbo set up, I just ordered a sts turbo. So do you have anything else done to your truck other than the turb? I need to get some exhaust pipe yet did you use 3" for the exhaust and 2.5" for the intake? :rockwoot:

Addicted2Blue00
03-20-2010, 06:08 AM
good to see the rear turbo setups still be used, sct will help alot

RTchas
03-20-2010, 11:26 AM
That is awesom I realy like the rear mount turbo set up, I just ordered a sts turbo. So do you have anything else done to your truck other than the turb? I need to get some exhaust pipe yet did you use 3" for the exhaust and 2.5" for the intake? :rockwoot:

Cool Good luck with your's! I have the usual bolt ons M-1, F&B ,RR ,Headers ,MSD,2800 stall and built trans. I used 3" on exhaust side and 2" into 3" on intake side also only use mandrel bent pipe if you can help it. Did you buy the "intake kit "from sts? I got all my parts from racepartsolutions.com watch the turbo exhaust pipe flange in the uni kit it is to small I opened mine up to match the turbo housing. Good Luck!

blackpearl99
03-20-2010, 01:36 PM
Ok cool! Ya, I"m gona need to do more small bolt ons yet,but for now I wanna finish this project.No, I didnt buy the intake hat yet I need to get a few small things like the silicone hoeses and such. Hope to hear how yours turned out!

RTchas
04-04-2010, 07:11 PM
Just add a short bit of vacuum line from the TB to the MAP sensor. Cut the line in half and put a "T" in the line. Then add a one-way check valve to the open part of the "T". Orient the check valve so it seals in vacuum but vents boost to keep it from reaching the MAP. At wide open throttle the MAP gets no boost and the PCM sees it as zero vacuum. I use the large check valves that are typically for power brake boosts. They vent much faster and make the transition to boost very smooth.

http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m275/stirlgirl/DUNER/P6070354.jpg

Okay I went to Napa the other day picked up the t fitting and then went to Auto bone and got a "Help" brake booster vavle set it up like you said Duner and it will not seal @ idle so truck is running like Sh#t ! Some how this vavle stays open when it should be closed ? If I put my finger over it then it will close and run fine but as soon as I hit the gas boom leaks again? Think I got a cheap vavle or is there something I missing here I know the vavle can only work one way. So do I need to hit the dealer or bone yard to find a better booster vavle? What one are you using?

Duner
04-04-2010, 07:24 PM
Okay I went to Napa the other day picked up the t fitting and then went to Auto bone and got a "Help" brake booster vavle set it up like you said Duner and it will not seal @ idle so truck is running like Sh#t ! Some how this vavle stays open when it should be closed ? If I put my finger over it then it will close and run fine but as soon as I hit the gas boom leaks again? Think I got a cheap vavle or is there something I missing here I know the vavle can only work one way. So do I need to hit the dealer or bone yard to find a better booster vavle? What one are you using?

It sounds like that one is defective. I would try a NAPA store if one is around. For sure, if the valve screws up - it will run like shit for sure.... and get about 4 mpg while being a gross polluter.

Sick 660r
04-04-2010, 09:10 PM
just buy a basic check valve from autozone or a store like it.

Five9Dak
04-04-2010, 09:26 PM
In my experience, a smaller sized check valve works just as well as the larger ones Duner recomends.

Sick 660r
04-05-2010, 12:49 AM
In my experience, a smaller sized check valve works just as well as the larger ones Duner recomends.

I never had luck with check valves period. I ended up having to use a voltage clamp.

Five9Dak
04-05-2010, 01:23 AM
Interesting. I don't really care what the JTEC is doing for fueling, so perhaps my setup is more tolerant.

Duner
04-05-2010, 02:01 AM
In my experience, a smaller sized check valve works just as well as the larger ones Duner recomends.


I never had luck with check valves period. I ended up having to use a voltage clamp.

Just in case Raw sees this thread......
This is how it's done. Both guys had different experiences than I did, stated what their experiences were - and the reader got the benefit of all of our collective knowledge. No name calling. Nobody is wrong. Just different experiences that have been shared for other people's benefit. Even if Raw is planning on a standalone and a 10-bar MAP sensor or going with a MAF system... the technique is: Sharing the experiences for other people's benefit.

RTchas
04-05-2010, 02:16 AM
In my experience, a smaller sized check valve works just as well as the larger ones Duner recomends.

So what did you use and where did you get it from??

RTchas
04-05-2010, 02:18 AM
It sounds like that one is defective. I would try a NAPA store if one is around. For sure, if the valve screws up - it will run like shit for sure.... and get about 4 mpg while being a gross polluter.

I went to Napa and they did not have them, nor could they get one??

RTchas
04-05-2010, 02:24 AM
Just in case Raw sees this thread......
This is how it's done. Both guys had different experiences than I did, stated what their experiences were - and the reader got the benefit of all of our collective knowledge. No name calling. Nobody is wrong. Just different experiences that have been shared for other people's benefit. Even if Raw is planning on a standalone and a 10-bar MAP sensor or going with a MAF system... the technique is: Sharing the experiences for other people's benefit.

BTW Raw has PMed my on this topic, I am limited in funds and time right now so the SCT and other methods will have to wait.

Duner, you have proven this set up can work and it is a "cheap fix" I have the FMU and will watch things with the LM2 and the BTM so I dont blow it up.:biggthumpup:

Sick 660r
04-05-2010, 02:24 AM
Interesting. I don't really care what the JTEC is doing for fueling, so perhaps my setup is more tolerant.

at the time I was using split second with two aux injectors. I tried the check valve but always got fuel cut. Ended up buying split second adjustible voltage clamp. Took care of the problem and I just kept the check valve in there to take the load off the map sensor.

Sick 660r
04-05-2010, 02:26 AM
BTW Raw has PMed my on this topic, I am limited in funds and time right now so the SCT and other methods will have to wait.

Duner, you have proven this set up can work and it is a "cheap fix" I have the FMU and will watch things with the LM2 and the BTM so I dont blow it up.:biggthumpup:

just make your own voltage clamp. There is a link some where but just google it.

WhiteRT
04-05-2010, 02:33 AM
I have a split second VC2 I could sell you, I dont believe I am going to be using it. PM me for details/if you are interested.

Todd

Sick 660r
04-05-2010, 02:38 AM
I have a split second VC2 I could sell you, I dont believe I am going to be using it. PM me for details/if you are interested.

Todd

so do I. I will sell you mine for $1 less then todd lol

Five9Dak
04-05-2010, 02:40 AM
So what did you use and where did you get it from??

http://shop.oreillyauto.com/product_images/img/nie/2-29259.jpg

It looks like that but is all black.

I found it in my toolbox, probably pilfered from some take off parts. I would guess any autoparts store like napa can get you something similar

I'll sell you a floptimizer for one dollar less than sick.

RTchas
04-09-2010, 03:01 AM
Okay I went to friends shop and looked thru his junk draws and found a OEM booster valve.
Before that I went to Pep Girls and bought another Help valve and tried it while it was better than the first it did not stop leaking vacum @ idle so tried the OEM one I found and.... Boom! :woot:Works awesome! No more sputter at any Temp it was Hot today 88 and drove it around for about an Hour and it never ran better no sputter or shutting down I am happy again now after I get Moved in and settled @ new House I will put LM2 on it to log some #'s :biggthumpup:BTW you guys think I should keep with the 3923's or drop to 3922's??..

Five9Dak
04-09-2010, 03:22 AM
Junk drawer FTW!

White Turbo
04-09-2010, 04:35 AM
I run NGK BKR7E plugs

2 steps colder than stock.
Same as the 3922's I think.

2k1AmberR/T
04-09-2010, 04:54 AM
I run NGK BKR7E plugs

2 steps colder than stock.
Same as the 3922's I think.

I think you are correct as well. I have the bkr6e's and I think the higher the number the cooler the heat range with NGK, they're backwards with that. As far as I'm aware mine are one step colder than the stock heat range, aka same as the 3923's. BUT before we make any assumptions or try to think anything we should probably double check with RAW HORSEPOWER R/T DREAMS so we don't go stupid or break an ankle trying.

roflcopter - SOI SOI SOI SOI SOI SOI SOI SOI SOI

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S_vNhLYW_e4

BTW Chas - glad to hear you've got it figured out!

RTchas
04-10-2010, 03:38 AM
Junk drawer FTW!

LOL:rockwoot:

RTchas
04-10-2010, 03:46 AM
I think you are correct as well. I have the bkr6e's and I think the higher the number the cooler the heat range with NGK, they're backwards with that. As far as I'm aware mine are one step colder than the stock heat range, aka same as the 3923's. BUT before we make any assumptions or try to think anything we should probably double check with RAW HORSEPOWER R/T DREAMS so we don't go stupid or break an ankle trying.

roflcopter - SOI SOI SOI SOI SOI SOI SOI SOI SOI

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S_vNhLYW_e4

BTW Chas - glad to hear you've got it figured out!

Dude that is classic ROFLcopter Holy SH&t I was cracking up when I played that!!!:jester:

dzstang90
05-01-2010, 02:26 AM
Just finished a rear mount 62-1 turbo on my 03 Durango. It runs great at part throttle, but as soon as it spools and is about to make any kind of boost, the wideband goes crazy lean to like 15 or 16:1 and it falls on its face. Only thing I can think of is the check valve I have inline with the MAP is letting it see some boost and making it go crazy. Got the stuff to build the MAP clamp over the weekend so we'll see how it works along with the valve. Did the check valve by itself end up working for you? Also is this how the FMU is supposed to be? I guess in theory restricting that return line will work, but it just seems like a weird setup to me. I've built a few blower cars before but never used the FMU and definetly never on a returnless system

djfrazier
05-04-2010, 08:23 PM
ok guys, im a newb, and apparentley a fucking retard, i see these posts, such as the first one on this thread about the rear mounted turbo pics, but i cant find where or how to view them...

2k1AmberR/T
05-04-2010, 08:42 PM
ok guys, im a newb, and apparentley a fucking retard, i see these posts, such as the first one on this thread about the rear mounted turbo pics, but i cant find where or how to view them...

He edited the post at a later date and took the pictures down. So you're not retarded, you're just late to the party.

djfrazier
05-04-2010, 08:45 PM
oh, makes since lol thanks

BuckeyeRideR
05-09-2010, 01:52 AM
Any chance you still have the pictures? Those would be VERY VERY VERY helpful for me.

RTchas
07-13-2010, 02:13 AM
Okay its been several months since this thing was finished so here it go's. Due to Moving I was not driving the truck past 3 months so it sat, drove it 60 miles since the build finished and I was taking it easy. Well Nats came round and I got off my ass installed LM2 got some A/F (no OBD) and it was all good @ WOT I'm getting 11.9-12 every time and cruise is 14.4 , idle 15. The lm2 was not reading OBD working on that. I have to toss the MP LA vavle covers for some Magnums cause they dont seem to want to seal correctly. I also need a breather system for the covers that will either catch oil or pass it thru exhaust cause open Atmosphere breather is messy! Blew out one airhat gasket from felpro it was used thou.

My trip to Nats in Carlisle was all good on the Highway this thing rips! the boost hit 5psi and stays there!No flutter on the gauge like blower had.The sound is sick too. I was getting giddy running it up to other R/T's and letting off the throttle to blast them with some blow off Swoosh! And hitting it WOT @ 40mph it spools up and go's! So you could say I like my STS so far! Oh the best part coming home and getting 18.8 MPG !!! Avg speed 70 mph 93 mile trip.:woot: Next I need to get LM2 OBD to data log it and then Dyno & track #'s all in due time.

2k1AmberR/T
07-13-2010, 02:17 AM
One thing I noticed when I got under your truck to check out the turbo placement and whatnot...the entire underside of your truck was spotless. I was amazed. You've done a fantastic job with that truck.

Intense RT
07-13-2010, 02:29 AM
Okay its been several months since this thing was finished so here it go's. Due to Moving I was not driving the truck past 3 months so it sat, drove it 60 miles since the build finished and I was taking it easy. Well Nats came round and I got off my ass installed LM2 got some A/F (no OBD) and it was all good @ WOT I'm getting 11.9-12 every time and cruise is 14.4 , idle 15. The lm2 was not reading OBD working on that. I have to toss the MP LA vavle covers for some Magnums cause they dont seem to want to seal correctly. I also need a breather system for the covers that will either catch oil or pass it thru exhaust cause open Atmosphere breather is messy! Blew out one airhat gasket from felpro it was used thou.

My trip to Nats in Carlisle was all good on the Highway this thing rips! the boost hit 5psi and stays there!No flutter on the gauge like blower had.The sound is sick too. I was getting giddy running it up to other R/T's and letting off the throttle to blast them with some blow off Swoosh! And hitting it WOT @ 40mph it spools up and go's! So you could say I like my STS so far! Oh the best part coming home and getting 18.8 MPG !!! Avg speed 70 mph 93 mile trip.:woot: Next I need to get LM2 OBD to data log it and then Dyno & track #'s all in due time.Been casually following the thread. Sounds like it turned out well. Congrats!

RTchas
07-13-2010, 02:34 AM
One thing I noticed when I got under your truck to check out the turbo placement and whatnot...the entire underside of your truck was spotless. I was amazed. You've done a fantastic job with that truck.

Thanks Jason,
I try not to bring it out in the rain! I also just did the rear leafs and Caltracs so it got a fresh wipe down before Nats.

RTchas
07-13-2010, 02:41 AM
Been casually following the thread. Sounds like it turned out well. Congrats!

Yes I still have a bug or two, the breather set-up, off idle stumble sometimes, (fuel sync?) And my air charge pipe in P/S wheel well is rubbing a little with wheel turned all the way to right! These are not any fault of StS system I do like everything about it so far and on the ride home I was thinking how I'm going to up the boost someday TT maybe ? Saw alota cool stuff this weekend and Im wishing I could blow up my credit card! LOL

Five9Dak
07-13-2010, 02:48 AM
I've had good sucess when boosted with that jerry-rigged air compressor water/air seperator. It cost 20 dollars and usually pulls about 6oz of oil out per 3k miles.

NA it only pulls maybe a teaspoon per 3k.

sunike32
07-13-2010, 02:55 AM
Yeah, it sounded NASTY when you and I were next to each other going under the two underpasses on 11 en route to the fairgrounds Sunday morning. That and the 100+ mph blast we did on that drive...sounds awesome. What muffs on there?

RTchas
07-13-2010, 03:49 AM
I've had good sucess when boosted with that jerry-rigged air compressor water/air seperator. It cost 20 dollars and usually pulls about 6oz of oil out per 3k miles.

NA it only pulls maybe a teaspoon per 3k.

I saw your rig it was same setup guys used on SRT-4 back in 2003. They had alot of oil in the intakes same with the SRT-8's I looked in mine once and it had a puddle of oil laying in it.On start up it would smoke on alot of them.

wyotech_cuda440
07-13-2010, 11:15 PM
If you havent found some valve covers yet, I just saw Indy's ad in the latest mopar muscle. They are advertising a set of MP black magnum valve covers, including baffles, gaskets, grommets, and two oil fill caps for $169. I couldn't find it on their website, but their phone # is 317-862-3724

RTchas
07-14-2010, 12:15 AM
If you havent found some valve covers yet, I just saw Indy's ad in the latest mopar muscle. They are advertising a set of MP black magnum valve covers, including baffles, gaskets, grommets, and two oil fill caps for $169. I couldn't find it on their website, but their phone # is 317-862-3724

Cool Good find I will be calling Indy!!

RTchas
07-14-2010, 06:26 PM
If you havent found some valve covers yet, I just saw Indy's ad in the latest mopar muscle. They are advertising a set of MP black magnum valve covers, including baffles, gaskets, grommets, and two oil fill caps for $169. I couldn't find it on their website, but their phone # is 317-862-3724

Looked around thats a good price for the covers and gaskets with gromets and baffles! Put the order in today thanks for the heads up!

wyotech_cuda440
07-15-2010, 12:23 AM
No problem :biggthumpup:

RTchas
07-18-2010, 04:37 AM
I got my MP cover and MP baffles with MP gaskets chepo oil caps but the killed me on shipping $5 handling and $10 and change shipping UPS grd! I asked on phone and they couldnt tell me a total ( should have know better)I got billed $189 and was like WTF! O well I dont think Indy will see me again!

RTchas
07-18-2010, 04:41 AM
Yeah, it sounded NASTY when you and I were next to each other going under the two underpasses on 11 en route to the fairgrounds Sunday morning. That and the 100+ mph blast we did on that drive...sounds awesome. What muffs on there?

Sorry bro I just saw you asked about Mufflers... Muffler's we dont need no stinking Muffler's! ... STS runs straight pipe no muff's not cats.. I had a spintech race muffler with punched cat before this and got say it was just as loud then as it is now! I like it..Wish you could have gotten some Vid of that little run we had.

RTchas
07-18-2010, 04:44 AM
ok guys, im a newb, and apparentley a fucking retard, i see these posts, such as the first one on this thread about the rear mounted turbo pics, but i cant find where or how to view them...

I dont know why they got dropped from the thread but here is link to build pictures.
http://s808.photobucket.com/home/rtchas/index

Five9Dak
07-18-2010, 12:55 PM
I got my MP cover and MP baffles with MP gaskets chepo oil caps but the killed me on shipping $5 handling and $10 and change shipping UPS grd! I asked on phone and they couldnt tell me a total ( should have know better)I got billed $189 and was like WTF! O well I dont think Indy will see me again!

Sorry to hear about that, it makes me glad I got my indy intake at the show and saved on shipping.

RTchas
11-20-2010, 04:10 AM
Headed to the track to see what this POS will do I have changed nothing on the set-up and still have no tune. I need to get SCT and lose the FMU and get bigger injectors! Anyone want to give me a small loan? LOL

RTchas
11-20-2010, 04:12 AM
Sorry to hear about that, it makes me glad I got my indy intake at the show and saved on shipping.

BTW the oil fill cap the gave me Leaked oil all over the cover and down the back of the motor! I had to replace it with one from Autobone.:jerkit:

RTchas
11-25-2010, 03:25 AM
Headed to the track to see what this POS will do I have changed nothing on the set-up and still have no tune. I need to get SCT and lose the FMU and get bigger injectors! Anyone want to give me a small loan? LOL

Well if you missed it here is the result I went 13.27 @ 104 on 5lbs of boost with no tune pulled some timing and ran pump gas. I need a converter to get this thing into boost faster cause off the line it is dead! 2.00 60' everytime.

99408kotar/t
11-25-2010, 05:42 AM
thats pretty good, i havent followed the whole thread, are you mostly stock except the turbo?

RTchas
11-25-2010, 01:35 PM
thats pretty good, i havent followed the whole thread, are you mostly stock except the turbo?

Its bolt on's only, Stock Block, Cam, Heads.

Rtspeeddemon
11-25-2010, 01:44 PM
I would get the tune right before blowing it to pieces. You may find your convertor is not the biggest issue and its the tune holding you back.

bfranzel
11-25-2010, 01:58 PM
I would get the tune right before blowing it to pieces. You may find your convertor is not the biggest issue and its the tune holding you back.

and feeding the kittens:jester:

Rtspeeddemon
11-25-2010, 02:25 PM
and feeding the kittens:jester:

LMAO!

Duner
11-25-2010, 02:43 PM
Dyno testing kittens....

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yVjzd320gew

BluRT00
11-25-2010, 02:46 PM
Dyno testing kittens....

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yVjzd320gew

WOW! :jester:

Rtspeeddemon
11-25-2010, 03:35 PM
Dammit cant view youtube at work company blocks it out.

RTchas
11-25-2010, 05:50 PM
and feeding the kittens:jester:

You guys lost me on the Kitty thing???:sign_hijack:

Rtspeeddemon
11-25-2010, 05:56 PM
From another post a ways back.... Duner feeding the kittens by running down the 1/4 mile with engine parts a flyin... :-)

solar99dak
11-25-2010, 08:37 PM
Since we are" learning" about Turbo builds here in my thread, I wanted to see what you all think about blow off's? I was using the cheap bosch one that came with the powerdyne "upgrade" I want to go with something better that one was $80 from summit .I know there are alot out in the market just wondering what so of you use/rec Thanks

BTW Duner Much respect I meet ya back in 2001 @ Nat's in Kanas I remember when you first put the hairdyer in the white truck poeple thought you where crazy and it would never work, well who's crazy now..



There's all kinds. Greedy, Mopar, HKS, maddog, turbo xs.

Any will do. Just no cheapos and don't buy a Turbo xs. Bad rep.


YouTube SRT4 Bov. Tons should come up.

99R/T-Kota
12-08-2010, 02:19 AM
i read this whole thread and i must say i think i might go this way myself. sweet build

QwikKota
01-07-2011, 06:40 PM
Chas, I was going to pick your brain on how to connect the 3" pipe to the T4 flange. That is the setup I am going with anyway. When you welded your round pipe to the rectangular flange, were you concerned with stonewalling the flow on the areas that overlap into the 3" pipe? I drew up a 2 to 1 dual exhaust collector with a T4 flange and the overlap is quite large. I will try to shape the 3" pipe into a rectangle before welding but wanted to get more input.
http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i13/qwikkota/TurboTransition.jpg
http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i13/qwikkota/TurboTransition2.jpg

RiG
01-07-2011, 06:56 PM
There's all kinds. Greedy, Mopar, HKS, maddog, turbo xs.

Any will do. Just no cheapos and don't buy a Turbo xs. Bad rep.


YouTube SRT4 Bov. Tons should come up.

Stock Mitsubishi ones (from EVOs) hold boost pretty well and can be picked up cheap.

Duner
01-07-2011, 08:23 PM
Chas, I was going to pick your brain on how to connect the 3" pipe to the T4 flange. That is the setup I am going with anyway. When you welded your round pipe to the rectangular flange, were you concerned with stonewalling the flow on the areas that overlap into the 3" pipe? I drew up a 2 to 1 dual exhaust collector with a T4 flange and the overlap is quite large. I will try to shape the 3" pipe into a rectangle before welding but wanted to get more input.
http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i13/qwikkota/TurboTransition.jpg
http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i13/qwikkota/TurboTransition2.jpg

Just use a vise to flatten the sides of the pipe. Mark which direction of the pipe is front/back and use the clamping action of the vise to square the round pipe. You'll be amazed at how easy it comes to matching the flange opening.

RTchas
01-07-2011, 09:40 PM
Duner is correct, You can get it shaped up nice in the vise a little heat can help with that too. In the STS Uni kit they give you a flange with a 2" hole in it, however it was a bottle neck for me with the 3" pipe so I butt welded it together then cut and grinded out the flange to make the transition work it wasnt pretty but it worked.

Blak92
01-10-2011, 10:09 PM
I used my vice like everyone said, but I also used a C clamp and flat stock on the other 2 sides to help form it into a close to perfect square.

QwikKota
01-12-2011, 04:34 PM
Thanks for the tips. Do you have any pictures of your build? Those are some impressive numbers you are putting down.


I used my vice like everyone said, but I also used a C clamp and flat stock on the other 2 sides to help form it into a close to perfect square.

Blak92
01-12-2011, 11:48 PM
537/606RW was done on 9#, 21* timing. I wanted 525 and got it pretty easy.

http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u69/blak92/truck/IMG_5324.jpg

Not done at this point...
http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u69/blak92/Mobile%20Uploads/downsize-3.jpg

http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u69/blak92/truck/IMG_5321.jpg

Traced the bracket for the vortech blower and made another after modifying it some...
http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u69/blak92/Mobile%20Uploads/downsize-2.jpg

http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u69/blak92/Mobile%20Uploads/0628102114.jpg

My favorite : )
http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u69/blak92/IMG_5402.jpg

Recent video....
http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u69/blak92/th_NewProject4.jpg (http://s165.photobucket.com/albums/u69/blak92/?action=view&current=NewProject4.mp4)

QwikKota
01-13-2011, 05:59 PM
Very clean install, looks great. I hope mine looks half as good. I plan on supporting the turbo by the exhaust side T4 flange as well, probably just welded to it and again on the v-band discharge exit side. Thanks for the images.


537/606RW was done on 9#, 21* timing. I wanted 525 and got it pretty easy.

http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u69/blak92/truck/IMG_5324.jpg

Not done at this point...
http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u69/blak92/Mobile%20Uploads/downsize-3.jpg

http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u69/blak92/truck/IMG_5321.jpg





Recent video....

RTchas
01-13-2011, 06:11 PM
Blak92 did you purchase the PIE kit or build your own? Looks Great.

Blak92
01-13-2011, 08:55 PM
Blak92 did you purchase the PIE kit or build your own? Looks Great.

Thanks man!

Chris built the motor, everything else on the truck I did myself (including researching/picking out parts). XFI install (and tuning overall), wiring, exhaust, intake, transmission, rear build-up (truetrac, gears, disc brakes, axles) etc etc... Spent a lot on tools that I dont use on a regular basis, but its nice knowing I did it all, and if something was messed up, it was my fault. Everything worked out well though.

Blak92
01-13-2011, 08:56 PM
Very clean install, looks great. I hope mine looks half as good. I plan on supporting the turbo by the exhaust side T4 flange as well, probably just welded to it and again on the v-band discharge exit side. Thanks for the images.


Thanks man, anything I can help with let me know.

You cant see it in any of the pics, but there is another 90* bent bracket made out of allthread that goes through the top of the c-channel frame to an insulator that is connected to the down pipe for support (keeps the turbo stable vertically). Same idea you have, worked well.

BryanRT360
01-15-2011, 04:39 AM
Blak92 did you purchase the PIE kit or build your own? Looks Great.

yo dude, did you get SCT and injectors from santa claus? you gonna be tuned by march?

RTchas
01-15-2011, 05:01 AM
No I got a Laptop but not Injectors or SCT :nono: Why whats in March?

BryanRT360
01-15-2011, 05:02 AM
tracks open full time.

Durkota0293
01-24-2011, 09:45 PM
Blak,
Mind if I ask how you wired your XFI to your truck? Did you gut all the wiring and use a fast harness or did you use a splice in harness? How did you get the dast to work? I know alot of questions.

Thanks,

Blak92
01-25-2011, 12:45 AM
Blak,
Mind if I ask how you wired your XFI to your truck? Did you gut all the wiring and use a fast harness or did you use a splice in harness? How did you get the dast to work? I know alot of questions.

Thanks,

Used a FAST universal harness. ATI damper with magnets in the outer for CrankPS, MSD dizzy with all but one reluctor removed for CamPS.

SB440R/T
01-25-2011, 03:41 AM
Used a FAST universal harness. ATI damper with magnets in the outer for CrankPS, MSD dizzy with all but one reluctor removed for CamPS.

Got pictures of the Crank area? Assuming you put the Crank sensor up front right?

Sick 660r
01-25-2011, 10:16 AM
Got pictures of the Crank area? Assuming you put the Crank sensor up front right?

X2!!!

mtlcafan79
01-25-2011, 10:49 AM
He's got pics of the entire setup on RM.com if you dig around.

SB440R/T
01-25-2011, 11:50 AM
He's got pics of the entire setup on RM.com if you dig around.

Same Screen name?

mtlcafan79
01-25-2011, 01:06 PM
I guess. I haven't been over there in almost a year. There's a thread about his TKO install too.

Sick 660r
01-25-2011, 02:00 PM
He's got pics of the entire setup on RM.com if you dig around.

I dont have enough time to dig through all the useless BS.

Five9Dak
01-25-2011, 03:38 PM
I dont have enough time to dig through all the useless BS.

HORSESHIT.

RTchas
01-25-2011, 04:57 PM
HORSESHIT.

Chris you get my pm?

mtlcafan79
01-25-2011, 07:13 PM
I dont have enough time to dig through all the useless BS.

Sorry I can't serve you information on a silver platter, Sir.

Durkota0293
01-25-2011, 07:14 PM
Blak, How did you wire the EGR and get the evap stuff to work?
Did you splice into the factory harness?

Sorry to be a PITA. I have a 93 dakota I am working on and have alot of questions about wiring this thing up that nobody can or wants answer.

Thanks so much for any help!!!!!

Blak92
01-25-2011, 09:40 PM
X2!!!

I dont have any pics of the new bracket, just the old crude one on the old motor.... but it worked.

http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u69/blak92/Pic-1.jpg


This is the new motor, but you can see the damper better.
http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u69/blak92/downsize.jpg

Blak92
01-25-2011, 09:57 PM
Blak, How did you wire the EGR and get the evap stuff to work?
Did you splice into the factory harness?

Sorry to be a PITA. I have a 93 dakota I am working on and have alot of questions about wiring this thing up that nobody can or wants answer.

Thanks so much for any help!!!!!

I used a normally closed 12vdc solid state relay and wired it in. There is a couple of ways I planned on grounding the relay to energize it to open the contacts of the relay, allowing the EGR valve to operate... BUT, I never used it. The XFI has and EGR output, duty cycle calculated by TPS% and MPH, which may work... had another couple ideas too, but never tried. Not really necessary to make it through emissions here in MD, and I'll be getting historic tags so long as the world doesnt end in 2012 anyways.

EVAP, I have a temp switch in the block that closes at I think 170*F, energizes a time delay relay that will energize for whatever I set it for, 15 sec I think now. That will allow the EVAP to operate for that amount of time.... Thats about as close as I could get it to operating to OEM (it also energizes at particular times during operation, not just at key-on and at operating temp).


The only reason I even went through all that horseshit is for emissions. Just to say that, "hey, I tried", if I got any shit over it.

Durkota0293
01-25-2011, 11:03 PM
Freakin emissions, I have the sniffer and visual here in Denver. Maybe I should let mine set until 2013...lol

Thanks for the info
I guess it turns out to be one of those figure it out as you go things. I hope mine works out as good as yours.

Nice job btw it looks good

Blak92
01-25-2011, 11:10 PM
Freakin emissions, I have the sniffer and visual here in Denver. Maybe I should let mine set until 2013...lol

Thanks for the info
I guess it turns out to be one of those figure it out as you go things. I hope mine works out as good as yours.

Nice job btw it looks good

Thanks man, check your DMV though, you may or may not have the historic tag etc option that I do.

Durkota0293
01-26-2011, 01:57 PM
We do, but it is at 25 years. I'm not waiting that long.lol
This xfi was a mess from the get go. At the time I ordered it I didn't really know much about what I needed. I relied on what the guy said that sold it to me. I smack myself every time I think about it..lol lesson learned. So I have to try and learn as much as I can about it, most of my truoble is the wiring. I really like the fact that they are coming out with the XFI 2.0 that will help with tuning the thing.. I have the FAST duel sync dizzy. I figured that would make it easier.
I know this, I won't give up.. Not really that kinda person. I will rewire the whole truck if I have to..

Blak92
01-26-2011, 07:20 PM
We do, but it is at 25 years. I'm not waiting that long.lol
This xfi was a mess from the get go. At the time I ordered it I didn't really know much about what I needed. I relied on what the guy said that sold it to me. I smack myself every time I think about it..lol lesson learned. So I have to try and learn as much as I can about it, most of my truoble is the wiring. I really like the fact that they are coming out with the XFI 2.0 that will help with tuning the thing.. I have the FAST duel sync dizzy. I figured that would make it easier.
I know this, I won't give up.. Not really that kinda person. I will rewire the whole truck if I have to..


Yeah, the dual sync was 6mo or more out from being released when I was buying parts. I wasnt going to wait that long. Kinda like having it separate anyways, ATI is easy to get ahold of, as is the MSD dizzy.

Durkota0293
01-27-2011, 11:01 PM
When I first read about the 50 crank ref angle and set the dist at like 30. I was like WHAT, HOW,WHAT... I think I understand it now. All I know is my truck liked 12deg. I figure I could screw it up from there. I seem to think about it to much.. I have 2 dual sync dizzy's Fast and Accel.. I will be happy when I can work on it somemore...