C clip eliminators...maybe a solution

[ADakotaRTGuy]

I called Moser and asked if they had anything for the 9.25 and they said I would have to weld on new housings possibly. Better than a whole new damn axle I guess. This would probably run in the range of a grand. Any better solutions?

If I put a whole new axle could I use the brakes that come with them? What has a similar track width as the Dakota? Can I get custom axles made for the 6x4.5? Hmm, decisions decisions.

[ADakotaRTGuy]

Also more information that they wanted. Is the housing 4 or 5 bolt and what is the distance across center to center.

[grapejuice1998]

I called Moser and asked if they had anything for the 9.25 and they said I would have to weld on new housings possibly. Better than a whole new damn axle I guess. This would probably run in the range of a grand. Any better solutions?

If I put a whole new axle could I use the brakes that come with them? What has a similar track width as the Dakota? Can I get custom axles made for the 6x4.5? Hmm, decisions decisions.

I'd just swap in a 9" Ford, or a FAB 9 type of housing and get it overwith. You'd have a much wider selection of gears, plus it'd probably produce more power to the ground. Back half and 4 link it while you're at it.

[ADakotaRTGuy]

I'd just swap in a 9" Ford, or a FAB 9 type of housing and get it overwith. You'd have a much wider selection of gears, plus it'd probably produce more power to the ground. Back half and 4 link it while you're at it.

Haha, not trying to go crazy. Just legal so I dont get any flak at the track. What comes with the for 9"? How strong are they stock? Can they handle 600hp? The 3.92 gears are perfect right now. just about hitting the rev limiter at the 1/4 in 3rd gear.

[2k1AmberR/T]

Also more information that they wanted. Is the housing 4 or 5 bolt and what is the distance across center to center.

4 bolt. Not sure on the distances. If you're talking about the brake mounting position on each end of the housing.

[ADakotaRTGuy]

4 bolt. Not sure on the distances. If you're talking about the brake mounting position on each end of the housing.

Sweet, I will have to find that out. I wonder if the 03's have a different pattern. Was reading that if you have disc brakes that having C clips is not a big deal because they keep the axle in even if it breaks.

Rumor?

[2k1AmberR/T]

Sweet, I will have to find that out. I wonder if the 03's have a different pattern. Was reading that if you have disc brakes that having C clips is not a big deal because they keep the axle in even if it breaks.

Rumor?

Think about it. The caliper holds the rotor from coming off and your wheel is clamping the rotor between itself and the axle flange via the lug nuts. Even if the axle breaks somewhere the only way your wheel is coming off is if the rotor shears the caliper off of the housing.

[ADakotaRTGuy]

That is what I was thinking. So why should I need C clip eliminators. I could understand if I am running drums since there is nothing holding it on. But with Disc, axle breaks and well thats it, just get new axles.

[2k1AmberR/T]

I guess not having c-clips makes it easier to change out the axles? I don't know, I don't intend on ditching my c-clips so I haven't bothered to learn the pro's and con's. But I'm fairly certain the 03's have the same bolt pattern on the housing and it's 4 bolts. Depending on how soon you need those dimensions I might be able to help you out. You can also just crawl under the truck and stick your head back behind the tire to look up at the back side of the flange on the axle housing to measure the distance from one bolt head to the other. You just can't measure across, obviously. I still have my drum back plates laying around somewhere that I can look at the next time I'm home from school though.

[ADakotaRTGuy]

I guess not having c-clips makes it easier to change out the axles? I don't know, I don't intend on ditching my c-clips so I haven't bothered to learn the pro's and con's. But I'm fairly certain the 03's have the same bolt pattern on the housing and it's 4 bolts. Depending on how soon you need those dimensions I might be able to help you out. You can also just crawl under the truck and stick your head back behind the tire to look up at the back side of the flange on the axle housing to measure the distance from one bolt head to the other. You just can't measure across, obviously. I still have my drum back plates laying around somewhere that I can look at the next time I'm home from school though.

No big deal. I am taking the truck to get the roll bar in tomorrow so we will see.

[ADakotaRTGuy]

Called Drivetrain specialites in Mich and they offer a bolt on Dana with a Detroit lock, Willwood 4 piston disc brakes, upgrades axles for a total of 3375 plus shipping. This would be straight bolt on though. No finger banging anything to make it work. Even has the provision for the speed sensor, dude knew his shit. I think I would get killed if I bought this though.

I guess its not to bad once you take into account what all you are getting. But fuck there has to be a better solution out there that would work.

[BluRT00]

Called Drivetrain specialites in Mich and they offer a bolt on Dana with a Detroit lock, Willwood 4 piston disc brakes, upgrades axles for a total of 3375 plus shipping. This would be straight bolt on though. No finger banging anything to make it work. Even has the provision for the speed sensor, dude knew his shit. I think I would get killed if I bought this though.

I guess its not to bad once you take into account what all you are getting. But fuck there has to be a better solution out there that would work.

Welcome to the racing world... Hell just put a 9 inch or even look at a mopar 8 3/4 rear. Moser makes a new housing for the 8 3/4. Just put in a strong 489 chunk and be done with it. Dan

[RJ_Hythloday]

Called Drivetrain specialites in Mich and they offer a bolt on Dana with a Detroit lock, Willwood 4 piston disc brakes, upgrades axles for a total of $3375 plus shipping. This would be straight bolt on though. No finger banging anything to make it work. Even has the provision for the speed sensor, dude knew his shit. I think I would get killed if I bought this though.

I guess its not to bad once you take into account what all you are getting. But fuck there has to be a better solution out there that would work.

You're not kidding, I can't think that a complete ford 9" w/ gears of your choice and discs would cost half that, of course some fabrication would have to happen.

[ADakotaRTGuy]

You're not kidding, I can't think that a complete ford 9" w/ gears of your choice and discs would cost half that, of course some fabrication would have to happen.

I am assuming that the ford 9" is the same or close to the same track width? What about the speed sensor for it? Does it have C clips? A new driveshaft would be needed most likely. Then the U joints. Even if I bought a 9" I would have to upgrade the axles to aftermarket jobbies. Adds up quick.

[RJ_Hythloday]

I'm not familiar w/ all of your questions, but I think if you went a ford 9" you would be replacing the whole axle at the same time. It's the most poplular hot rod rear end out there.

http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/wiki/images/3/33/9_in_exp_view.gif (http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&q=ford+9%22+rear+end&aq=f&aql=&aqi=&oq=)

[ADakotaRTGuy]

I'm not familiar w/ all of your questions, but I think if you went a ford 9" you would be replacing the whole axle at the same time. It's the most poplular hot rod rear end out there.

I understand that, but there are still a lot of obsticals with it. Speed sensor, leaf mounts, custom axles, shock mounts, u-joints, driveshaft. This would all add up very quickly as I don't weld or fabricate shit.

I am sure the brakes would work fine since they would already be on there. Would just need to make sure all the lines worked, easy enough.

[RJ_Hythloday]

I understand that, but there are still a lot of obsticals with it. Speed sensor, leaf mounts, custom axles, shock mounts, u-joints, driveshaft. This would all add up very quickly as I don't weld or fabricate shit.

I am sure the brakes would work fine since they would already be on there. Would just need to make sure all the lines worked, easy enough.
It's not something I've looked into all that much, but I do know it gets expen$ive quick. I'm pretty sure I've seen SAS happen for around $1500 though, having the same stuff fabricated and modded to work.

[ADakotaRTGuy]

It's not something I've looked into all that much, but I do know it gets expen$ive quick. I'm pretty sure I've seen SAS happen for around $1500 though, having the same stuff fabricated and modded to work.

Yea labor is a bitch.

[RJ_Hythloday]

Yeah labor is a bitch.

That's why I ended up building this motor, I figured for the same amount I'd get a whole heck of a lot more than a jasper.

[BluRT00]

Yea labor is a bitch.

Contact Moser and ask them about their 8 3/4 housings and Dana 60 housings. I remember a complete setup was around 1800 to 2 grand. Still a heavy chunk of change. As for the mounts you give them the correct measurements where they mount, and they can weld it up for you. Honestly I would get the kid Adobe has for the shocks. Then measure that, and relay it to them.

[bad360rt]

I've been doing some research on possibly using a Ford 8.8" rear. Cheaper than the 9", and with welding the axle tubes, proper bracing and 35 spline axles, it should hold up just fine. The nice thing is that you can get 'em dirt cheap, since Ford put them in everything from Mustangs to F150s. The Explorer/Mountaineer and F150 8.8's have larger tubes, so I'd probably go with one of those. The F150 is gonna be too wide, but since you need to have new ends put on it anyway (most folks put 9" ends on 'em) you can have it cut to whatever width you need. The 95+ Explorers came with disk brakes, and some of them with 4.10s, and rumor has it you can get 'em from a pick-n-pull for around $200 (haven't made any calls to confirm that, but my local pick-n-pull has about a dozen 95+ Explorers in the yard). They're a lil narrower than our 9.25s, but that can be fixed with proper backspacing of the new wheels that I'll need to buy for the 5x4.5 bolt pattern :D Thinking about some streetable 15x12s in the rear. Parts are cheap and plentiful for the 8.8. All new parts would run about $900, that's axles, 9" ends, spool, cover and bracing. Can find all of that used as well if you want to save some money. Of course then there's labor for welding the ends, welding the tubes and putting the whole thing together. I didn't think about it before, but I guess there would have to be a provision for the speed sensor too.

I'm sure the cost will add up once you get it all beefed up and setup for a Dak, but another nice thing about the 8.8 is that it's lighter and uses less power than a 9" or D60. :biggthumpup:

Honestly, I think our 9.25s are a good rear, it's just the lack of parts that sucks. We're stuck with 31 spline axles, no spools, and limited gear choices.

[ADakotaRTGuy]

Why get the 8.8 if with our rear end you can just get new ends. Moser said they just need the measurements for out ends and they can make everything else. Would just need a new brake setup, which I am assuming would be something that is stock somewhere anyway. Then I could probably run a 15" wheel. I still want to keep the 6 x 4.5 cause of my CCWs. Ah I don't know. I might try and take everything apart and see what I can find.

[bad360rt]

Why get the 8.8 if with our rear end you can just get new ends. Moser said they just need the measurements for out ends and they can make everything else. Would just need a new brake setup, which I am assuming would be something that is stock somewhere anyway. Then I could probably run a 15" wheel. I still want to keep the 6 x 4.5 cause of my CCWs. Ah I don't know. I might try and take everything apart and see what I can find.

Because even with new ends you're still limited to 31 spline axles with the 9.25. No one makes a differential for the 9.25 that can take 33 or 35 spline axles. A set of Moser 31 splines is definitely better than stock, but still not optimal for big power in a heavy vehicle. I'm still debating which way to go, just researching right now. First goal is to get the damn thing on the road before I mess with anything else. LOL

[ADakotaRTGuy]

I think for my setup it would be good. Going 9's is way to expensive. Way out of my income level unless I got sponsored by someone.

I think new ends, axles, and brakes would make me legal anywhere really.

[bad360rt]

Yeah, you should be legal with that setup. :biggthumpup:

[ADakotaRTGuy]

Yeah, you should be legal with that setup. :biggthumpup:

Question is really how much would new ends be, and how much would it be to get them welded on. Hmm.

[bad360rt]

Question is really how much would new ends be, and how much would it be to get them welded on. Hmm.

The Ford 9" ends are $90 from Moser. Not sure on cost to weld 'em on tho.

[ADakotaRTGuy]

The Ford 9" ends are $90 from Moser. Not sure on cost to weld 'em on tho.

Hmm, that is not bad. I know a fabricator that should be able to handle that. I have to get some measurements for Moser to see what they would have to do.

[bad360rt]

New axles from Moser are $350, might as well upgrade if you're putting new ends on anyway. :)

[ADakotaRTGuy]

New axles from Moser are $350, might as well upgrade if you're putting new ends on anyway. :)

Yea I have to get that anyway. Probably won't happen anytime soon though.

[ADakotaRTGuy]

Just called moser again. Seems like its not to bad of a job really.

I just bought the Large Ford Housing ends for 90 dollars. Cut off the end of our axle and weld on the new ones. For brakes they have a Disc brake kit for 350 bucks, nothing like a willwood setup but a good brake kit. Not like I am autocrossing anyway. New axles about 350. So all in all about a grand to do all of this. Have to find a good shop to do the work. An unfortunalty I have to buy everything at once since I can't drive without brakes or axles, haha.

[ADakotaRTGuy]

Just called a not so local fab shop that does a lot of rear end work. Said if I bring in the axle clean with just the LSD in it, they can cut and weld the new ends on for 350. Good?

[Five9Dak]

I would shop around a bit more. Might not find any lower, but it doesn't hurt to try.

[ADakotaRTGuy]

I would shop around a bit more. Might not find any lower, but it doesn't hurt to try.

Yea, I like this shop though, there work is all custom and he knew exactly what I was talking about.