Sick of this dodge.

[RTZoD]

So far I have rebuilt almost the entire front end of my 1999 Dakota R/T and still have the issue where the front wheel jumps while backing out of my driveway. Here is a list of shit I've replaced. This truck is really starting to piss me off. To the point of selling it. My pockets are getting shallow for this truck. I'm tired of spending money on it.

Upper ball joints
Lower ball joints
Shocks
Swaybar endlinks
Upper and lower control arm bushings

Whats left tierod ends and rack and pinion?

[WhiteRT]

So far I have rebuilt almost the entire front end of my 1999 Dakota R/T and still have the issue where the front wheel jumps while backing out of my driveway. Here is a list of shit I've replaced. This truck is really starting to piss me off. To the point of selling it. My pockets are getting shallow for this truck. I'm tired of spending money on it.

Upper ball joints
Lower ball joints
Shocks
Swaybar endlinks
Upper and lower control arm bushings

Whats left tierod ends and rack and pinion?

That definitely sounds like it might be a tierod - tomorrow morning I start tearing mine down to do ball joints, inner and outer tie rod ends, sway bar end links, all new energy bushings....

The tie rod ends werent that bad I think about 150 for all moog stuff - it was just over 500 bux to do all I listed above - not too bad for good quality stuff like moog.

Todd

[hskr]

So far I have rebuilt almost the entire front end of my 1999 Dakota R/T and still have the issue where the front wheel jumps while backing out of my driveway. Here is a list of shit I've replaced. This truck is really starting to piss me off. To the point of selling it. My pockets are getting shallow for this truck. I'm tired of spending money on it.

Upper ball joints
Lower ball joints
Shocks
Swaybar endlinks
Upper and lower control arm bushings

Whats left tierod ends and rack and pinion?
Double, triple, and quadruple check that your adjustment nuts on the upper control arms are TIGHT!! Also make sure the ribbed side of the cross bar is on the frame. And when I say tight, I don't mean 3/8" ratchet tight. They need to be 1/2" breaker bar tight.

[ducrider]

Can you explain The noise/movement you are having?It might be helpful to get a better idea of whats going on.

[RTZoD]

When I back up and turning the wheels all the way left the front passenger wheel seems like its moving in and out like a wheel bearing bad. But they are in good shape. I guess I'll go buy new tierod ends and a 1/2 inch breaker bar tomorrow. Isn't that nut like a 7/8 or something? The one on the conrtol arms I mean. And whats the proper torque spec on those nuts? I'm pretty positive we put the ribbed side down when we did the control arm bushings. I'll check that too. Would be a dumb mistake if we didn't. Almost forgot to mention it bump steers like a mofo too. I hear lowering it will help that. Probably should have it aligned again since that dipshit never tightened the control arms before.

[Intense RT]

When I back up and turning the wheels all the way left the front passenger wheel seems like its moving in and out like a wheel bearing bad. But they are in good shape. I guess I'll go buy new tierod ends and a 1/2 inch breaker bar tomorrow. Isn't that nut like a 7/8 or something? The one on the conrtol arms I mean. And whats the proper torque spec on those nuts? I'm pretty positive we put the ribbed side down when we did the control arm bushings. I'll check that too. Would be a dumb mistake if we didn't. Almost forgot to mention it bump steers like a mofo too. I hear lowering it will help that. Probably should have it aligned again since that dipshit never tightened the control arms before.I had a problem of passenger side front acting like it was skipping/hopping backing up. Not sure what it was, but it just went away. This was after a complete front end rebuild minus sway bar end links...using moog btw. This includes rack and pinion and ps pump. All moving parts.

A while later, I looked under again, and saw that on only one side, that the sway bar end link (where it goes through the swar bar, with bushings on each side) was bent. The noise disappeared before I noticed this and have no idea if it was related. Noise did not return when I replaced the end links either.

[RTZoD]

I had a problem of passenger side front acting like it was skipping/hopping backing up. Not sure what it was, but it just went away. This was after a complete front end rebuild minus sway bar end links...using moog btw. This includes rack and pinion and ps pump. All moving parts.

A while later, I looked under again, and saw that on only one side, that the sway bar end link (where it goes through the swar bar, with bushings on each side) was bent. The noise disappeared before I noticed this and have no idea if it was related. Noise did not return when I replaced the end links either.

That describes my issue too. I guess I'll just replace everything. Only 4 items left. Inner and outer tire rods and a rack.

[Rick Adams]

Double, triple, and quadruple check that your adjustment nuts on the upper control arms are TIGHT!! Also make sure the ribbed side of the cross bar is on the frame. And when I say tight, I don't mean 3/8" ratchet tight. They need to be 1/2" breaker bar tight.

Absolutely agree; my IB would pop LOUD on the pass side while backing & turning, the upper control arm bolts were not to torque. 155 ft. lbs. is what the manual says.....

[hskr]

When I back up and turning the wheels all the way left the front passenger wheel seems like its moving in and out like a wheel bearing bad. But they are in good shape. I guess I'll go buy new tierod ends and a 1/2 inch breaker bar tomorrow. Isn't that nut like a 7/8 or something? The one on the conrtol arms I mean. And whats the proper torque spec on those nuts? I'm pretty positive we put the ribbed side down when we did the control arm bushings. I'll check that too. Would be a dumb mistake if we didn't. Almost forgot to mention it bump steers like a mofo too. I hear lowering it will help that. Probably should have it aligned again since that dipshit never tightened the control arms before.

The nuts are 22mm.

[grapejuice1998]

So far I have rebuilt almost the entire front end of my 1999 Dakota R/T and still have the issue where the front wheel jumps while backing out of my driveway. Here is a list of shit I've replaced. This truck is really starting to piss me off. To the point of selling it. My pockets are getting shallow for this truck. I'm tired of spending money on it.

Upper ball joints
Lower ball joints
Shocks
Swaybar endlinks
Upper and lower control arm bushings

Whats left tierod ends and rack and pinion?

Last time I tried to get an alignment, I was told my tie rods were bad. My truck does just what you describe. It feels like the tires are going to fold under as you back up while turning. They kind of bounce back and forth from rolling to rolling under.

[RTZoD]

Wow so its not just my truck. Ok I'll go get some new outer tie rod ends and a 1/2 inch breakerbar with a 22 mm socket So I can be sure those fucking nuts are tight. Maybe I'll just order the tierod ends from rockauto its not like I drive the truck everywhere. I wish my camera didn't take a dirt nap I'd make a video of the front wheel and what its doing.

[grapejuice1998]

Wow so its not just my truck. Ok I'll go get some new outer tie rod ends and a 1/2 inch breakerbar with a 22 mm socket So I can be sure those fucking nuts are tight. Maybe I'll just order the tierod ends from rockauto its not like I drive the truck everywhere. I wish my camera didn't take a dirt nap I'd make a video of the front wheel and what its doing.

IIRC, they said it was the inners on mine.

[RTZoD]

I guess I need to check the outers before I go blowing even more money thanks for the heads up. rockauto has inners for like 8 bucks. weird

[BluRT00]

When I back up and turning the wheels all the way left the front passenger wheel seems like its moving in and out like a wheel bearing bad. But they are in good shape. I guess I'll go buy new tierod ends and a 1/2 inch breaker bar tomorrow. Isn't that nut like a 7/8 or something? The one on the conrtol arms I mean. And whats the proper torque spec on those nuts? I'm pretty positive we put the ribbed side down when we did the control arm bushings. I'll check that too. Would be a dumb mistake if we didn't. Almost forgot to mention it bump steers like a mofo too. I hear lowering it will help that. Probably should have it aligned again since that dipshit never tightened the control arms before.


Have faith and we all have been down this road with various things on our R/T's. If you love the truck you will end up like 90% of us on this site, making them weekend toys. I used to daily drive my 200 miles a day and felt the same way about it at times. As for the bump steer mine did it bad when it was stock ride height, I lowered it and it went away big time. Then found some play in my rack at the same time. So replaced that and she is perfect now. So with these trucks it takes time and money. Just like any hotrod/muscle car/ race car.

[Bos-R/T]

Just buy a chevy and become a member of another forum. Stop whining....J/K LOL These trucks are MONEY PITS!!

[tcuillier]

I agree with BluRT00---bump steer will completely disappear when you drop your Dakota.

Tom

[RTZoD]

Just buy a chevy.... Naa i was thinking old reliable Toyota... my tear bucket is full so now its time to dump more cash into it. I'd probably trade it for the right Tacoma if someone had one.

[Bos-R/T]

Toyota's arent like they used to be. I actually see more newer toyotas in my shop for repair than the older ones. I tell you whats a pretty good truck and thats a nissan. Ive been seeing fewer of those in the last 2 years come in. And have read alot of good things about them. I try to read up on todays cars. Yeah I was just kidding about chevy. I figured if I mentioned FORD then i would get automatically banned. LOL

[Intense RT]

I see these trucks as having .."quirks". My front end has been fine and handles great now. I keep it lubed up only with "Green Grease" since new, 25K miles thus far, and it's fine. As good as anything else I've owned. With the ps pump, I ran it a year, siphoned out the atf+4, and put in Mobil 1 ATF. It should be good for a while.

Another quirk would be the ignition coils. I finally relocated mine, hope that works. If I can go two years without needing one, I'll call it a success. It's been averaging a coil a year. I've used that O'Reilly warranty a couple times on the coil, lol.

[RTZoD]

I had a 98 tacoma and it was super reliable. I loved that truck my wife made me sell it to get her an exploder. I got the Hyundai Accent. It was gay ass rose color. I traded that P.O.S for a ragged out ranger. Sold it for 900.00 :) I would have never gotten the money out of the Accent. It was on its 2nd tranny and ragged out bad. Never had to do anything to the yoda. When i traded it in the clutch started to slip 110k on the original clutch not bad if you ask me.

[Bos-R/T]

I used to have a 93 nissan pickup that I put 300,000 miles on the original clutch. I did go through about 3 pilot bushings and a tranny at 200,000though but every time I tore it down the clutch still looked brand new. when I sold it,it had 540,000 miles on it. Damn good truck. I had it since it had 30,000 miles and used castrol oil

[BluRT00]

Again I gotta add these trucks if left stock or lowered some with minor mods can be dependable. Just like anything else with wheels you gotta keep after it. Plus some have luck with certain car makes. Me my luck sucks with Ford anything, had 2 and it was always electrical issues. Another thing I hate is my Durango. Yes its a 02, but nothing but nit picking issues like transmission, window motors, brake calipers, a/c, clear coat. All of that with only having 86,000 miles. Good thing I just chalk it off as a Friday made pos, and not transfer my hate to all Dodges. If we are on the subject of good trucks, as stated before buy a Chevy. I have a 01 1500 LS 5.3 2wd ext cab pickup with 188,000 miles. Just reg belt change, coil packs and fluids and it runs like a champ.

[RTZoD]

Ok went out today and looked at the upper control arm cross piece and they appear to be on correct smooth side up. I didnt get a chance to get by the parts place for the breaker bar and socket. But I did notice that when I backed out of my driveway that passenger side front wheel went off the concrete and into a muddy spot. And the mud on the tire amplified the popping and hopping. I hate cold weather so I'll wait for a warmer day to investigate it further. But more then likely its the inner and outer tierods. Thats all thats left other then the rack. Tie rods are cheaper then the rack so I'll go there next. One question though on the inners. Are they both the same part number? Left and right?

[WhiteRT]

Ok went out today and looked at the upper control arm cross piece and they appear to be on correct smooth side up. I didnt get a chance to get by the parts place for the breaker bar and socket. But I did notice that when I backed out of my driveway that passenger side front wheel went off the concrete and into a muddy spot. And the mud on the tire amplified the popping and hopping. I hate cold weather so I'll wait for a warmer day to investigate it further. But more then likely its the inner and outer tierods. Thats all thats left other then the rack. Tie rods are cheaper then the rack so I'll go there next. One question though on the inners. Are they both the same part number? Left and right?

If you want to get moog stuff the outers are es3571 and the inners are ev406...same for both sides.

Todd

[RTZoD]

I just got back in from outside farting around with the truck and it seems the bushings where the rack bolts to the frame are worn out. Looks like the drivers side bolt is sagging in the bushing. Looked at the tierod ends and they didnt seem to have any play while the wifey was turning it back and forth. The only odd movement was the rack bolts due to the bushings. But i dont think this would cause the hopping. I could be wrong.

[ducrider]

It could make a popping sound.You use to be able to get them from the dealer so I would think they are available in the aftermarket.

[Bos-R/T]

I just got back in from outside farting around with the truck and it seems the bushings where the rack bolts to the frame are worn out. Looks like the drivers side bolt is sagging in the bushing. Looked at the tierod ends and they didnt seem to have any play while the wifey was turning it back and forth. The only odd movement was the rack bolts due to the bushings. But i dont think this would cause the hopping. I could be wrong.

Jack it up and wiggle the tire from left to right to check for looseness in the steering parts. The steering wheel wont show that.

[RTZoD]

I found them on energy suspension site 13.99 But I was also looking at the inner tierods. What can go bad on these? The swivel at the end towards the rack?

http://www.energysuspensionparts.com/prodimages/MOOG/EV351_TOPlg.gif

[Bos-R/T]

I found them on energy suspension site 13.99 But I was also looking at the inner tierods. What can go bad on these? The swivel at the end towards the rack?

http://www.energysuspensionparts.com/prodimages/MOOG/EV351_TOPlg.gif

Yes....

[ducrider]

The inners wear out in the ball and socket.Just like a ball joint does.

[grapejuice1998]

I just got back in from outside farting around with the truck and it seems the bushings where the rack bolts to the frame are worn out. Looks like the drivers side bolt is sagging in the bushing. Looked at the tierod ends and they didnt seem to have any play while the wifey was turning it back and forth. The only odd movement was the rack bolts due to the bushings. But i dont think this would cause the hopping. I could be wrong.

Then I would fix the rack bolts first, but I would also take it to an alignment shop and ask them to evaluate the condition of the front end. It's a lot easier to tell which parts are weak (if any), when the truck is on the lift with no weight on the wheels.

[RTZoD]

Yea I did that when I put new control arm bushings and endlinks on. I should take it back to the same guy and bitch at him for not tightening the control arm nuts. I know I couldn't have gotten the alignment that close to where he didn't have to loosen them. I guess I'll just buy everything left in the front end rebuild put them on then have it aligned. Whats another 175.00 right? Grapejuice you need another purple RT don't you? :)

[Matthew Cosper]

I personally prefer to buy American automobiles.

[Bos-R/T]

Shit 90% of the parts are imported.