View Full Version : So you want to go racing.......
Mayday
02-19-2009, 01:58 PM
Ok…..some now I’m on the prowl for the “right” deal for my R/T. So let me pick the brains from you guys that are much further down the path and gain from your experiences. Let me start with my vision….I would like to purchase a truck that would give me a solid foundation to eventually build a consistent bracket racer in the “super pro” category. I expect this to be a multiyear project as I progress each year with additional mods to both the drive line and the truck suspension. This provides me two benefits….1) I’m not made of money, so each year I will invest a bit more while I race at whatever performance level I can attain….2) Allows me to start slow just to make sure my interest stays peaked.
So I begin with the initial purchase, add a few bolt on mods to enhance the stock performance and I’m racing the first season in one of the street classes. The end result in a few years might be a fully back halved (dana, 4-link) truck with a cage somewhere in the low 9 second range.
But first things first….which truck…any particular year of truck have any advantage over the other (i.e. drive live or suspension)?? How about regular cab vs. extended cab?....my initial thought there was about the additional room for a future cage.
Anyway…I could go on and on with questions…but that will be a good starting point.
Thanks in advance for your thoughts…….Mayday!
Five9Dak
02-19-2009, 02:16 PM
Get a 98-99 regular cab. If it's going to be a track piece theres no reason to spend more on the later years for the fancy interiors, less torque and better brakes. As you will likely change all of that in some way anyway.
grapejuice1998
02-19-2009, 02:32 PM
Get a 98-99 regular cab. If it's going to be a track piece theres no reason to spend more on the later years for the fancy interiors, less torque and better brakes. As you will likely change all of that in some way anyway.
Less torque?
ADakotaRTGuy
02-19-2009, 03:29 PM
My not the older generation? lighter, can go carbed easier? Maybe?
Five9Dak
02-19-2009, 04:01 PM
Less torque?
Or should I say torque management, which ultimately results in less torque output off idle and down low.
99strokedr/t
02-19-2009, 07:21 PM
check out some of the trucks for sale on here:
http://www.dakotart.com/forum/showthread.php?t=4872
http://www.dakotart.com/forum/showthread.php?t=4834
http://www.dakotart.com/forum/showthread.php?t=4644
:rockwoot:
RTfreak
02-19-2009, 08:05 PM
check out some of the trucks for sale on here:
http://www.dakotart.com/forum/showthread.php?t=4872
http://www.dakotart.com/forum/showthread.php?t=4834
http://www.dakotart.com/forum/showthread.php?t=4644
:rockwoot:
that first link is a damn tough truck! i used to be the owner of it. has seen the track and was very well taken care of. plus id love to see a cage in that truck some day!
ran a 13.4 @100 all motor before i sold it.
krusty_R/T
02-20-2009, 01:36 PM
check out some of the trucks for sale on here:
http://www.dakotart.com/forum/showthread.php?t=4872
http://www.dakotart.com/forum/showthread.php?t=4834
http://www.dakotart.com/forum/showthread.php?t=4644
:rockwoot:
He could always buy mine with no top end :jester::jester::jester::jester:
and I'm somewhat local :biggthumpup:
sgttank25
02-20-2009, 01:53 PM
1998 dodge dakota RT = 250 horsepower and 345 lb.ft. of torque
according to trucktrend.com the 2003 dodge dakota RT =
To commemorate the Dakota R/T's last year, Dodge took this already potent performance truck and bolted on a few final go-fast goodies. It added a Magnum MPI single-plane intake manifold ($364), cast-aluminum valve covers ($172), Magnum R/T cylinder-head assemblies ($766 each), a high-performance cam and lifter set ($450), a low-restriction cat-back exhaust system ($335), and a cold-air intake ($372). Dodge estimates the $3225 in modifications increased the power output to 300 horsepower.
as far as extended cab vs regular cab.. of course you will save weight with the regular cab however if you are looking to put a cage in the truck eventually then the extended cab would be the better option in my opinion.
Gale Banks used an extended cab dakota for the Sidewinder..
http://www.pickuptrucks.com/html/stories/sidewinder/page1.html
ADakotaRTGuy
02-20-2009, 01:59 PM
I have an 03 and none of that stuff came on it. Sticker was 28,600 with none of it on there.
SinCity R/T
02-20-2009, 02:10 PM
according to trucktrend.com the 2003 dodge dakota RT =
To commemorate the Dakota R/T's last year, Dodge took this already potent performance truck and bolted on a few final go-fast goodies. It added a Magnum MPI single-plane intake manifold ($364), cast-aluminum valve covers ($172), Magnum R/T cylinder-head assemblies ($766 each), a high-performance cam and lifter set ($450), a low-restriction cat-back exhaust system ($335), and a cold-air intake ($372). Dodge estimates the $3225 in modifications increased the power output to 300 horsepower.
That was a bullshit article regarding the hopped-up 03 R/T's - they never built any of those for production purposes. The only difference between an 03 R/T and its predecessors is the addition of rear disc brakes, a soft tonneau cover, chrome R/T wheels (which was also available in 02), different decals on the tailgate (block font), and no decals on the sides. Some 03 models also came with the Stampede body kit, but it was optional.
mtlcafan79
02-20-2009, 02:32 PM
Gen II + 408/416 stoker = 10 sec ride.
Five9Dak
02-20-2009, 02:32 PM
You can put a cage in a RC, he wants a maximum effort truck, he can put some bars through the window/cab.
sgttank25
02-20-2009, 03:12 PM
true, damn and i thought i had something good with my 03 RC lol... its still a bad *ss little truck and wouldnt get rid of it but i need to make it quicker and get the rear tires to stick better... kinda sux when a Ford Focus V6 EL can get a jump on me because I am sitting there spinning my tires...
TurboBlew
02-20-2009, 03:19 PM
true, damn and i thought i had something good with my 03 RC lol... its still a bad *ss little truck and wouldnt get rid of it but i need to make it quicker and get the rear tires to stick better... kinda sux when a Ford Focus V6 EL can get a jump on me because I am sitting there spinning my tires...
You just need to learn to drive some!
Mayday
02-20-2009, 09:49 PM
Hey guys, I appreciate the feedback......
Concerning the cage/roll bar question......at what ET/speed does it become mandatory? I see some of you running in the low 11's, I thought anyone that quick would be required to have atleast a roll bar...but perhaps mistaken.
Mayday
ADakotaRTGuy
02-20-2009, 10:00 PM
11.5 is the roll cage.
mtlcafan79
02-20-2009, 10:02 PM
11.49 you need a bar. 9.99 or 135mph you need a cage.
ADakotaRTGuy
02-20-2009, 10:06 PM
Ah I stand corrected. What is the difference really?
2ndGen360dakota
02-20-2009, 10:42 PM
I would go with a 1st gen because of the weight difference and the over all cost.
http://www.racingjunk.com/category/28/Race_Trucks/post/1462544/88-dodge-dakota-roller-smallblockchevy-setup.html
99strokedr/t
02-23-2009, 01:08 PM
He could always buy mine with no top end :jester::jester::jester::jester:
and I'm somewhat local :biggthumpup:
No one wants that POS, I've seen the way you drive it!!! :burnout:
just kidding...hehe
bad360rt
02-23-2009, 04:49 PM
With what you're planning, I would go with the cheapest RC I could find and completely gut it. If you have the money for an engine/trans/rear, you could look for a 4 banger Dak, or a rolling chassis, and start off even cheaper.
Mayday
02-25-2009, 02:32 AM
With what you're planning, I would go with the cheapest RC I could find and completely gut it. If you have the money for an engine/trans/rear, you could look for a 4 banger Dak, or a rolling chassis, and start off even cheaper.
I thought about that approach....and the appealing part is to build it like you want from the get go. The down side is I figured for about 5k - 8K I could be running a decent stock R/T (+ a few bolt on mods) and be running the "pro" class (14's) at my local track KCIR. I doubt I could start with a gutted RC dak, build a drive line and suspension for that same 5K-8K this first season...even if the truck was given to me. Seems I could spend 5K on a stock 5.9 engine alone.
Your thoughts?
Mayday
slvr03dakrt
02-25-2009, 03:22 AM
I thought about that approach....and the appealing part is to build it like you want from the get go. The down side is I figured for about 5k - 8K I could be running a decent stock R/T (+ a few bolt on mods) and be running the "pro" class (14's) at my local track KCIR. I doubt I could start with a gutted RC dak, build a drive line and suspension for that same 5K-8K this first season...even if the truck was given to me. Seems I could spend 5K on a stock 5.9 engine alone.
Your thoughts?
Mayday
That yellow rc in the forsale section for 3200 would be a good starting point if your mainly looking for a drag truck even though it has a rebuilt title or salvage title. 3200 plus 4k in mods would make it a pretty quick truck.
ChrisR/T
02-26-2009, 03:48 PM
1998 dodge dakota RT = 250 horsepower and 345 lb.ft. of torque
according to trucktrend.com the 2003 dodge dakota RT =
To commemorate the Dakota R/T's last year, Dodge took this already potent performance truck and bolted on a few final go-fast goodies. It added a Magnum MPI single-plane intake manifold ($364), cast-aluminum valve covers ($172), Magnum R/T cylinder-head assemblies ($766 each), a high-performance cam and lifter set ($450), a low-restriction cat-back exhaust system ($335), and a cold-air intake ($372). Dodge estimates the $3225 in modifications increased the power output to 300 horsepower.
as far as extended cab vs regular cab.. of course you will save weight with the regular cab however if you are looking to put a cage in the truck eventually then the extended cab would be the better option in my opinion.
Gale Banks used an extended cab dakota for the Sidewinder..
http://www.pickuptrucks.com/html/stories/sidewinder/page1.html
Those were options. My 03 R/T RC didn't come with any of that stuff, would have been nice if it did though ;)
ChrisR/T
02-26-2009, 03:50 PM
I thought about that approach....and the appealing part is to build it like you want from the get go. The down side is I figured for about 5k - 8K I could be running a decent stock R/T (+ a few bolt on mods) and be running the "pro" class (14's) at my local track KCIR. I doubt I could start with a gutted RC dak, build a drive line and suspension for that same 5K-8K this first season...even if the truck was given to me. Seems I could spend 5K on a stock 5.9 engine alone.
Your thoughts?
Mayday
5k on a stock 360? No way.
I can buy 360 magnums in the junkyard for a few hundred bucks or less.
Rebuild + heads + cam, would maybe get you to the 3k mark, maybe? Spend 2k on the transmission and tuning and you'd have a damn good starting point.
Special Ed's R/T - Yaaaay
02-26-2009, 03:57 PM
Those were options. My 03 R/T RC didn't come with any of that stuff, would have been nice if it did though ;)
those were not options, and were never offer as such.
ChrisR/T
02-26-2009, 04:03 PM
those were not options, and were never offer as such.
As dealer installed options, they were.
You could get the heads/cam/intake put on the truck and warrentied before you drove it off the lot. ;)
slvr03dakrt
02-26-2009, 04:27 PM
5k is pretty easy even if you still run the stock bottom end. Ported heads are around 2k or 2500. m1 $500, cam $350, rockers $300, tb $350, cai $200, exhaust $1000. Thats close to 4500 and I havent even ventured into the transmission rearend or drag radials.
Mayday
02-26-2009, 06:00 PM
....all good input guys.
I'm going to look at a '99 EC with 92K, headers and intake spacer for $4800. Sounds pretty reasonable to me. that leaves me a couple grand to perhaps get a converter, set of slicks, and some traction with caltracs. Would love to work in a set of gears...maybe 4.56...but I think I'm pushing it now.
Mayday
360 XRT
02-27-2009, 03:39 AM
you know,i think a non-running truck might be best.
dakota $1500
ford 9 inch w/4-link and gears $2200
roll bar with any interior parts (shifter,seat,gauges) $800
used 340/360 with carb $2000
727/904 trans w/stall $1000 rebuilt
add another grand for odds/ends
it may be more $$$ than you have,but at least it minimizes buying alot of shit twice.and them prices are off the top of my head (ballpark numbers).you also might want to find a used mopar racecar (drag,circletrack,truckpull,mudbogger) and use it for a doner running gear.
NightmareR/T
02-27-2009, 09:42 PM
true, damn and i thought i had something good with my 03 RC lol... its still a bad *ss little truck and wouldnt get rid of it but i need to make it quicker and get the rear tires to stick better... kinda sux when a Ford Focus V6 EL can get a jump on me because I am sitting there spinning my tires...
When did Focus' come with V6's, :jester:
Matt
NightmareR/T
02-27-2009, 09:54 PM
....all good input guys.
I'm going to look at a '99 EC with 92K, headers and intake spacer for $4800. Sounds pretty reasonable to me. that leaves me a couple grand to perhaps get a converter, set of slicks, and some traction with caltracs. Would love to work in a set of gears...maybe 4.56...but I think I'm pushing it now.
Mayday
Go with the 4.56's, I would have to say that was the best mod that I performed on the truck.
Matt
360 XRT
02-28-2009, 04:09 PM
mayday,if you look under racecars on ebay,there is about 5 mopars in there that would make great donor chassis/parts,all under $4000.
ChrisR/T
03-02-2009, 06:28 PM
5k is pretty easy even if you still run the stock bottom end. Ported heads are around 2k or 2500. m1 $500, cam $350, rockers $300, tb $350, cai $200, exhaust $1000. Thats close to 4500 and I havent even ventured into the transmission rearend or drag radials.
M1's are now 500 dollars? That's crazy. I think I paid 300 for mine...if that. (holy crap, just priced summit. 582.xx for a 2bbl M1, 365 for a 4bbl M1, + 65 for adaptors + 12 for bolts, HOLY CRAP.)
Ported heads costing 2k? From where? I had a local shop do my heads, as well as install the valves/springs/retainers/locks/killer attack monkeys/knife wielding leprachauns, and still only spent like $700 total. Sure, it might not be the ZOMG UBER BEST port job, but really, do you need it if you're going bracket racing?
BTW, I'm using stock heads that are new. Ported with 1.97/1.625 valves.
Cam and rockers sound about right. Buying a fastman TB will save at least 100 bucks, unless he's went up in price. CAI, fab your own, way less than 200 bucks.
Exhaust costing a 1000 dollars? If you're including headers in that, I agree, if not, you're getting ripped.
I'm thinking user should have no more than 3k in a stock bottom end rebuild. Maybe 4k if the user goes with upgraded/higher compression pistons.
ADakotaRTGuy
03-02-2009, 06:38 PM
You can get the 2.02 EQ heads for about 1200 bucks with a good port and polish.
Other stuff is about online with pricing.
Don't want a hack job exhaust if you are serious about racing.
03DakR/T
03-16-2009, 02:52 AM
i have an 03 as well with a 29,000 sticker and none of that shit is on it.
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