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View Full Version : WTB: transmission pan 46re


01dakotaR/T
02-09-2009, 03:15 PM
looking for an aftermarket transmission pan for the 46re that has a bung for a temp sensor. let me know what you have.

krusty_R/T
02-10-2009, 01:00 PM
I have a mint pan I'm willing to sell. You would need a shope to weld the bung on, which shouldn't cost much at all.

01dakotaR/T
02-10-2009, 02:40 PM
I have a mint pan I'm willing to sell. You would need a shope to weld the bung on, which shouldn't cost much at all.

what kind of pan is it??

krusty_R/T
02-10-2009, 03:33 PM
what kind of pan is it??
It's a stock pan. You didn't specify if you wanted aftermarket or not so just throwing it out there

01dakotaR/T
02-10-2009, 04:32 PM
It's a stock pan. You didn't specify if you wanted aftermarket or not so just throwing it out there

sorry, i guess i should have specified. i want an aftermarket pan that already has a bung in it if possible.

jweltch
02-26-2009, 05:11 AM
http://chucker54.stores.yahoo.net/mopa5deepcas1.html

I have this pan on both of my R/T's. Works great.

01dakotaR/T
02-26-2009, 07:00 PM
http://chucker54.stores.yahoo.net/mopa5deepcas1.html

I have this pan on both of my R/T's. Works great.

thanks for the link. i see a couple of holes in the side. one is for a drain, what is the other for?? i need one with a temp sender bung for a transmission temp gauge.

jweltch
02-26-2009, 07:06 PM
thanks for the link. i see a couple of holes in the side. one is for a drain, what is the other for?? i need one with a temp sender bung for a transmission temp gauge.

Yep. One is a drain, the other is for the temp sensor.

01dakotaR/T
02-26-2009, 07:12 PM
Yep. One is a drain, the other is for the temp sensor.

sweet. thanks for the info!

Siciliano15
12-01-2009, 05:35 PM
i just went and bought this pan but it interferes with the mopar headers go figure...... ud think all the mopar parts were made to work together. it hits by the top left corner of the pan that sticks out more than the rest of the pan (if your looking at it with the mopar performance logo facing you). Is there anything i can do to the pan such as hammering it or would that tend to crack the aluminum rather than bend it. id really like an aluminum pan or something so that every time i drain the fluid it doesnt get all over me and the garage floor.

grapejuice1998
12-01-2009, 06:08 PM
i just went and bought this pan but it interferes with the mopar headers go figure...... ud think all the mopar parts were made to work together. it hits by the top left corner of the pan that sticks out more than the rest of the pan (if your looking at it with the mopar performance logo facing you). Is there anything i can do to the pan such as hammering it or would that tend to crack the aluminum rather than bend it. id really like an aluminum pan or something so that every time i drain the fluid it doesnt get all over me and the garage floor.

That's exactly why mine is still NIB after 7-8 years now. It's cast aluminum, so all you can do is alter your exhaust. It's not really worth the trouble anyway.

EDIT: You could drill and tap a drain plug into the pan you have now.

Adobedude
12-01-2009, 06:33 PM
That's exactly why mine is still NIB after 7-8 years now. It's cast aluminum, so all you can do is alter your exhaust. It's not really worth the trouble anyway.

EDIT: You could drill and tap a drain plug into the pan you have now.

The 46RE already has a deep pan, the 727 pan was like an inch deep.

Like you said, you can buy a drain plug that only requires drilling a hole, no welding.

Siciliano15
12-01-2009, 07:51 PM
are you sure i can just drill a hole and buy a drain plug? i dont have to weld in a bung for it or anything? i figured id have to make it like an o2 bung or something.

grapejuice1998
12-01-2009, 09:07 PM
are you sure i can just drill a hole and buy a drain plug? i dont have to weld in a bung for it or anything? i figured id have to make it like an o2 bung or something.

Here is a drain plug kit that has a fixture that slips into the hole, then a nut captures it on the inside. Then the drain plug threads into that.

http://www.amazon.com/80250-Automatic-Transmission-Universal-Drain/dp/B00029WR78

Siciliano15
12-01-2009, 09:22 PM
oh nice.... i think ill pick up one of those. now gotta find someone without mopar headers that can use a trans pan. gonna sell it for what i got it.... $197 brand new never installed and ill include shipping.

grapejuice1998
12-01-2009, 09:44 PM
oh nice.... i think ill pick up one of those. now gotta find someone without mopar headers that can use a trans pan. gonna sell it for what i got it.... $197 brand new never installed and ill include shipping.

Well, good luck! :biggthumpup:

Bos-R/T
12-01-2009, 09:55 PM
Here is a drain plug kit that has a fixture that slips into the hole, then a nut captures it on the inside. Then the drain plug threads into that.

http://www.amazon.com/80250-Automatic-Transmission-Universal-Drain/dp/B00029WR78

Thats the one I used to install my temp sending unit for my tranny temp gauge. If I was you id take the pan off and either weld it yourself or have it welded. The first time you install it,it does fine but after the second time of removal you cant get it to stop leaking. And if you turn it and the nut inside turns then 99% of the time you will never get it back tight again and it will leak. Then you will have to take the pan off and waste some fluid in the process. But that exact plug can be welded in there. I did it and have drained my fluid 3 times and have never had any problems with it. I speak from experience when I say its more of a bitch to not weld it. Too bad your not around me id weld it for ya for free. But a shop shouldnt charge you more than 20.00 to weld it. It only takes 5 minutes including prep.

Bos-R/T
12-01-2009, 10:00 PM
Heres mine :woot:

http://i847.photobucket.com/albums/ab32/bobradley4/IMG_4894.jpg

grapejuice1998
12-01-2009, 10:37 PM
You're supposed to tighten the fixture and leave it tight. If you use 2 wrenches(1 for the fixture and 1 for the plug), it should stay put when you remove/install the plug for draining purposes.

Bos-R/T
12-01-2009, 10:51 PM
You're supposed to tighten the fixture and leave it tight. If you use 2 wrenches(1 for the fixture and 1 for the plug), it should stay put when you remove/install the plug for draining purposes.

I understand all that but what happens is that stupid plastic seal that ALWAYS leaks after the first time you drain it. When PATC was building me a tranny I asked if they would install that plug for me and they said they are shit plugs if you dont weld them in. They said they see those things leaking on every vehicle that has them that comes in their shop and the best thing to do is weld it on there. I dont know why anybody wouldnt wanna weld it on there anyway. I mean you might as well while you have it off just so you wont have to worry about it ever leaking. When I first did my plug I didnt weld it in and when I ordered the Martin Saine vb I bought fresh raptor blood tranny fluid to put in it too,48.00 a gallon,and when I put everything back together the stupid plug leaked at the seal. So I had to drain it back out. It wasnt a big leak or a steady drip but a drip maybe every 2 or 3 minutes. So I took it back off and welded it. Now I dont have to worry about it. Im just trying to tell the guy that I would recommend for him to have it welded. It will save him in the long run.

Bos-R/T
12-01-2009, 10:53 PM
And you can buy those plugs at any parts house. I bought mine from oreillys.