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Adobedude
02-15-2017, 01:35 AM
My rear down bars ar too far away from my shock supprt bar and I can't cut them out and weld new bars to the main hoop, to close to the roof.

I'm thinking about adding a X brace to the main hoop, I have a couple choices...I like the one where it would all be under a tonneau cover, if it would work.
Keep in mind, the new bars will not be in the same plane as the existing bars...so it's more than an x brace, it's actuall another set of down bars, but these would be welded to the shock support cross bar, not the frame.

What say you...? One or Two? :idunno:

Sick 660r
02-15-2017, 01:39 AM
One. It will transfer more load to the main hoop.

slammedR/T
02-15-2017, 01:41 AM
One, two would cause an issue in a crash in my opinion.

Sick 660r
02-15-2017, 01:43 AM
One, two would cause an issue in a crash in my opinion.

Most likely buckle the rear down bars. If the x brace was in the same plane thenit wouldn't make such a difference.

Adobedude
02-15-2017, 01:50 AM
Good info...Thanks.

Adobedude
02-15-2017, 01:53 AM
What if I left the cross bar out of #2?

Sick 660r
02-15-2017, 02:01 AM
Wouldn't matter. That bar doesn't do much imo.

Adobedude
02-15-2017, 02:11 AM
Yeah looking at, waste of time and DOM tubing.

slammedR/T
02-15-2017, 02:27 AM
Most likely buckle the rear down bars. If the x brace was in the same plane thenit wouldn't make such a difference.

That what I was thinking since he is running from the down bars, past the point where the down bars tie into the frame and down to the rear shock attach point would cause issues with the x bars being half way in the down bars.

Adobedude
02-15-2017, 02:32 AM
Yeah....If I do add an x brace, I'll keep it line with the down bars, the shock bar is just bolted in... I'll get that welded up too. But it's a weak point, my down bars are 8" in front of the shock bar.

Sick 660r
02-15-2017, 02:38 AM
The bars are two force members (tension/compression) right now so they will only fail due to buckling. Adding the x brace will introduce a bending moment making them much more likely to fail. You could counter the x brace by adding more bars down to the frame between the hoop and the rear down bars but that ms just more complicated. The x brace needs to be as close to the hoop as possible unless it's in the the same plane.

Sick 660r
02-15-2017, 02:40 AM
You could add a small section from the shocks to the rear bars and counter them. I'm taking about maybe a foot up the current down bars and no x brace.

Adobedude
02-15-2017, 02:43 AM
Here's what I have....

Adobedude
02-15-2017, 02:48 AM
You could add a small section from the shocks to the rear bars and counter them. I'm taking about maybe a foot up the current down bars and no x brace.

:idunno:

Sick 660r
02-15-2017, 02:54 AM
:idunno:
Send the bars from the shocks straight to the current down bars(somewhat of an angle outward). Add another bar going forward and down to the frame and make sure it intersects the point where the bars for the shocks meet the current down bars.

That was explained terribly. It would add support to the shocks with the least amount of DOM. I like the x brace better tho.

Adobedude
02-15-2017, 03:00 AM
It makes sense, it's just that the frame is so friggen weak

Sick 660r
02-15-2017, 03:04 AM
And the fact that your shock crossmember is bolted in...

Adobedude
02-15-2017, 03:22 AM
And the fact that your shock crossmember is bolted in...

That's getting welded...But the way it's bolted the frame is the weak part, welding wouldn't help that, hence trying to tie the shock bar to the cage.

blackknight
02-15-2017, 04:09 AM
Dave, would boxing in that section of the frame and welding the shock mount inside of it strengthen that section from flexing and shuttering on a hard launch ?

Adobedude
02-15-2017, 04:32 AM
Dave, would boxing in that section of the frame and welding the shock mount inside of it strengthen that section from flexing and shuttering on a hard launch ?

I suppose it would help, it's sorta boxed that's why I ran the bars where did...Then I moved shocks a rear later. But we are to weld up what boxing is there, it's spot welded now..

TurboJoe62
02-15-2017, 01:28 PM
This is how I did mine. Shock bar is welded in, front x bars tie into driveshaft carrier bearing crossbar where it meets the frame rail. Rear of shock bar is tied into fuel cell bracing at 4 points.

http://i1074.photobucket.com/albums/w419/turbojoe62/Fuel%20cell-bracing-02_zpssogvdilg.jpg

http://i1074.photobucket.com/albums/w419/turbojoe62/Fuel%20cell-bracing-03_zpsn6ptdf3i.jpg

Adobedude
02-15-2017, 01:45 PM
This is how I did mine. Shock bar is welded in, front x bars tie into driveshaft carrier bearing crossbar where it meets the frame rail. Rear of shock bar is tied into fuel cell bracing at 4 points.

http://i1074.photobucket.com/albums/w419/turbojoe62/Fuel%20cell-bracing-02_zpssogvdilg.jpg


I'm going to get a new shock bar fabbed by a local chassis guy that I can have welded in like yours, and I like the way you braced it up. Thanks for the pic. Add that to a couple downbars with an x brace...Done.

Kingst3r
02-15-2017, 04:30 PM
The bars are two force members (tension/compression) right now so they will only fail due to buckling. Adding the x brace will introduce a bending moment making them much more likely to fail. You could counter the x brace by adding more bars down to the frame between the hoop and the rear down bars but that ms just more complicated. The x brace needs to be as close to the hoop as possible unless it's in the the same plane.

Joe, are you saying just adding the x brace between the rear bars will make it weaker?

Sick 660r
02-15-2017, 04:45 PM
Joe, are you saying just adding the x brace between the rear bars will make it weaker?

No. Not if the x brace is entirely within the current rear down bars (same plane). Transferring shock loads to the center of the rear down bars will make them weaker.

Adobedude
02-17-2017, 12:48 AM
So here's the shock bar waiting to be welded into place....:biggthumpup:
Much better than bolted in.

TurboJoe62
02-17-2017, 01:30 AM
So here's the shock bar waiting to be welded into place....:biggthumpup:
Much better than bolted in.

Getting closer!!
So is the track opening ;-)

Adobedude
02-17-2017, 01:53 AM
Dos semanas...

Sick 660r
02-17-2017, 01:58 AM
I hope you have enough room to move the bottom shock height because now would have been a perfect time to move the top mount up.

Sick 660r
02-17-2017, 02:00 AM
I think you should box the frame from a few inches behind the shock mount to a few inches in front of the rear down bars and forget about the x brace.

Adobedude
02-17-2017, 02:24 AM
Tons of shock adj.

Sick 660r
02-17-2017, 02:27 AM
Tons of shock adj.

Ok good. Cut and fit the plates to box the frame. Have them welded in with the shock crossmember and call it done.

blackknight
02-17-2017, 04:34 AM
So here's the shock bar waiting to be welded into place....:biggthumpup:
Much better than bolted in.
Same guy that welded in your cage ? :idunno:

Adobedude
02-17-2017, 05:27 PM
Ok good. Cut and fit the plates to box the frame. Have them welded in with the shock crossmember and call it done.

X bars are fugly.

Adobedude
02-20-2017, 01:53 PM
TurboJoe spring slider brackets, before/after a little modding. :biggthumpup:

Adobedude
02-24-2017, 11:55 PM
Everything is bolted in, bed is back on....I'll get pics, I was in a hurry.

TurboJoes brackets made this to f'n easy, his instructions were spot on, template was perfect...I'd still be crying had he not offered to help.

All I need to do is put the battery in the bed, toss in 40 lbs of weight to simulate 5 gallons of gas, disconect the shocks and bounce it to settle things out, locate the sliders on his brackets....And Weeeeeee !

blackknight
02-26-2017, 11:05 PM
Wtf no pics ?

Adobedude
02-27-2017, 01:24 PM
I'll get more...

Hugh Jassole
02-28-2017, 01:22 PM
why was I thinking they went in the front of the spring ? does it matter ?

Adobedude
02-28-2017, 01:54 PM
Yes....They replace the shackles, make the leafs move smoother...With the shocks off I can damn near get the rear end to bounce off the ground.

Hugh Jassole
02-28-2017, 02:55 PM
wow, big difference. I guess you'll have weight transfer out the wazoo now.

Sick 660r
02-28-2017, 05:12 PM
why was I thinking they went in the front of the spring ? does it matter ?

Yes. IMO you want the rear end to be trailing (pivot point in front of the axle). It's more stable.

niebs
03-01-2017, 01:08 AM
Maybe you said before and I didn't see, but Are those speedways slider?

...Looking good! Curious to see the changes at the track.

Adobedude
03-01-2017, 01:16 AM
Yes... Speedway sliders.
Two weeks, and we will know.

blackknight
03-01-2017, 02:13 AM
Fckkkk! I wants !

Hugh Jassole
03-01-2017, 04:02 PM
Yes. IMO you want the rear end to be trailing (pivot point in front of the axle). It's more stable.

I was just asking because I honestly didn't know, not trying to break balls

Sick 660r
03-01-2017, 04:25 PM
I was just asking because I honestly didn't know, not trying to break balls

Lol never thought you were

blackknight
03-22-2017, 11:36 PM
Dave can you post pics of how you mounted these , outside frame Rail pic , I'm on board with Joe to get a set of these , do I have to remove the bed ? Also, I'm running 50/50 competition engineering drag shocks mounted in stock position is this going to matter ?

Adobedude
03-23-2017, 12:38 AM
I'll post better pics, you don't have to remove the bed, but it sure makes it easier unless you have a lift, I can't comment on the stock shock set up, but I'd relocate em if you're serious.

TurboJoe62
03-23-2017, 01:35 AM
Dave can you post pics of how you mounted these , outside frame Rail pic , I'm on board with Joe to get a set of these , do I have to remove the bed ? Also, I'm running 50/50 competition engineering drag shocks mounted in stock position is this going to matter ?

In addition to what Dave said:
I did mine with bed on, however I had already removed rivets and bolted stock rear leaf/shackle mounts back on with bolts when I removed the spare tire carrier and did the fuel cell mod previously. Removing the rivets and stock mounts with bed on would for sure be more difficult however not necessary.
As for the shocks, if you are at stock height might be OK although not optimum. If lowered, it lays the shocks down to much for them to be able to control the rear end very well at all. Shocks and shock setup more important than sliders but the sliders "allow" the shocks to do their job better.

Adobedude
03-23-2017, 02:49 PM
In addition to what Dave said:
I did mine with bed on, however I had already removed rivets and bolted stock rear leaf/shackle mounts back on with bolts when I removed the spare tire carrier and did the fuel cell mod previously. Removing the rivets and stock mounts with bed on would for sure be more difficult however not necessary.
As for the shocks, if you are at stock height might be OK although not optimum. If lowered, it lays the shocks down to much for them to be able to control the rear end very well at all. Shocks and shock setup more important than sliders but the sliders "allow" the shocks to do their job better.

This is what I noticed, one click makes a change now where before it was 2-3 clicks.
Pulling the bed is the only way to go, and really easy too.

KyleDedrick
03-25-2017, 02:04 AM
I can't find these turbojoe brackets?

blackknight
03-25-2017, 03:07 AM
:jester: get in line! :finger:

Adobedude
03-25-2017, 03:12 AM
^^^ what he said.

KyleDedrick
03-25-2017, 03:54 AM
Was this just a one off set?

Adobedude
03-25-2017, 05:14 AM
I think he plans on selling them...

blackknight
03-25-2017, 05:18 PM
Dave , did you go with the $30 sliders or the $40 sliders ? I'm in the process of ordering mine from speedway

Adobedude
03-25-2017, 07:13 PM
the more expensive slider...I think they call it their Heavy Duty version.

blackknight
03-25-2017, 08:42 PM
Well the heavy duty $40 ea. Chrysler ones are out of stock, & the Afco are $99 ea. those are also heavy duty with roller bearings also

Adobedude
03-26-2017, 01:39 PM
Go with the afcos.

blackknight
03-08-2020, 07:53 AM
Dave, did you ever get an outside frame picture of these ?