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98Dak408
05-30-2015, 08:40 PM
I decided to relocate the battery toward the rear of my Dakota to help with weight distribution. Since I will be running a side pipe type exhaust system and no longer have the exhaust running between the passenger’s side frame rail and driveshaft, I plan to mount this tray to the frame rail on the passenger’s side where the stock muffler used to be placed. Now I have to position the tray where I want it to go and figure out how to fasten it to the frame rail. I have some ideas but they may just lead to something else. As it is, this battery tray is nowhere near what the first idea looked like. The flat strap/crossbrace with the hole is for the OEM battery temperature sensor.

http://i850.photobucket.com/albums/ab68/98Dak408/p1010005%202_zpslxbnno5u.jpg

http://i850.photobucket.com/albums/ab68/98Dak408/P1010009_zpsnbo0o3qw.jpg

blackknight
05-30-2015, 09:25 PM
Nice work! Wheelabrated parts weld much nicer!

ScojoDak
05-30-2015, 09:28 PM
Git-R-Done :rockwoot:

krs1r/t
05-30-2015, 09:59 PM
Very nice Richard as always:biggthumpup:

Duner
05-30-2015, 10:16 PM
Nice work.

Do you carry a spare in the factory location?
Are you ever ging to the track with it?

98Dak408
05-31-2015, 12:16 PM
Thanks guys!


Do you carry a spare in the factory location?
Are you ever ging to the track with it?
Yes I carry the spare since this is primarily a street toy. Otherwise, that’s likely where it would have gone. For drag racing, placing the battery further back is beneficial. For handling purposes, I think placing it closer to the center of the vehicle helps. I’d like to take it to the track at some point just for fun. I need to determine what the rules are for battery relocation and whether it is mandatory to have a cut-off switch at the rear of the vehicle, etc. I'm pretty sure I need the cut-off switch and may place it behind a flip-up license plate that can be removed when at the track. Doing so may also prevent some punk from switching the power off on me at a local restaurant for a prank. lol

98Dak408
05-31-2015, 02:58 PM
NHRA Rules

http://www.nhra.com/UserFiles/File/2012HRHS-Final2_03-22-12.pdf

BATTERIES
Batteries must be securely mounted; may not be located in driver compartment.
Relocated battery(s) must be fastened to frame or frame structure with a minimum of two 3/8-inch-diameter bolts. See General Regulations 8:1.

MASTER CUTOFF
Mandatory on any car with a battery running 9.99 (6.39*) or quicker, any car exceeding 135 mph, or any car where the battery is relocated into the trunk area. See General Regulations 8:4.


http://www.nhra.com/UserFiles/file/General_Regulations.pdf

8:1 BATTERIES
All batteries must be securely mounted; must be of sufficient
capacity to start vehicle at any time. Batteries may not be relocated
into the driver or passenger compartments. Rear firewall of .024-
inch steel or .032-inch aluminum (including package tray) required
when battery is relocated in trunk. In lieu of rear firewall, battery
may be located in a sealed .024-inch steel, .032-inch aluminum, or
NHRA-accepted poly box. If sealed box is used in lieu of rear
firewall, box may not be used to secure battery and must be vented
outside of body. Relocated battery(s) must be fastened to frame or
frame structure with a minimum of two 3/8-inch-diameter bolts.
OEM located batteries without complete OEM hold-down hardware
must be secured to OEM battery box/tray using the same 3/8-inch
diameter bolt hold-down method described in previous sentence.
(“J” hooks prohibited or must have open end welded shut.) Metal
battery hold-down straps mandatory. Strapping tape prohibited. A
maximum of two automobile batteries, or 150 pounds combined
maximum weight (unless otherwise specified in Class
Requirements), is permitted. Maximums may vary according to
Class Requirements.


8:4 MASTER CUTOFF
Mandatory when battery is relocated, or as outlined in Class
Requirements. An electrical power cutoff switch (one only) must be
installed on the rearmost part of each vehicle and be easily
accessible from outside the car body. This cutoff switch must be
connected to the positive side of the electrical system and must
stop all electrical functions including magneto ignition. The off
position must be clearly indicated with the word “OFF.” If switch is
“push/pull” type, “push” must be the action for shutting off the
electrical system, “pull” to turn it on. Any rods or cables used to
activate the switch must be minimum 1/8-inch diameter. Plastic or
keyed switches prohibited. Switches and/or controls must be
located behind rear wheels on rear-engine dragsters.

98Dak408
05-31-2015, 03:26 PM
SCCA Rules

http://scca.cdn.racersites.com/prod/Documents/Solo%20Rules/solo_categories.pdf

http://scca.cdn.racersites.com/prod/assets/2015%20GCR%20February.pdf

9.3.9. BATTERIES
Battery location is unrestricted within the bodywork (except Spec Miata, Touring, and Improved Touring). If located in the driver/passenger comŽpartment, vented wet cell batteries shall be in a nonconductive marine type container or equivalent. The hot terminal shall be insulated on all cars. All batteries (on-board power supplies) shall be attached securely to the frame or chassis structure independent of the marine type container.

9.3.34. MASTER SWITCH
All cars, except Touring shall be equipped with a master switch easily accessible from outside the car. Spec Racer Fords shall be wired per RFSRII. The master switch shall be installed directly in either battery cable GCR - 104 9. Cars and Equipment
and shall cut all electrical circuits but not an on-board fire system. All terminals of the master switch shall be insulated to prevent shorting out. It shall be clearly marked by the international marking of a spark in a blue triangle and mounted in a standard location. Off position shall be clearly indicated at the master switch location. The standard locations shall be as follows:
A. Formula and Sports Racing Cars–In proximity to the right-hand member of the roll bar, but in a location so that it cannot be operŽated accidentally. It can be mounted on a bracket welded to the inside of the upright member or mounted so that the operating lever or knob is outside of the body panel immediately in-board of the upright member. This is the standard location on Formula cars built to the Constructor’s Association requirements for Formula 1.
B. Closed Sports Racing Cars, Production Cars, Improved Touring and GT Cars–In front of the windshield on either the cowl or on top of the fender, but close enough to the windshield to be accessible if the car is overturned. Alternatively, it may be mounted below the center of the rear window or on a bracket welded, clamped or bolted to the roll cage or dash, easily accessible through the open window. (Drilling of holes in roll cage to attach the bracket is prohibited.)
C. Open Production, GT, and Improved Touring Cars–May exercise a choice among the above locations.

98Dak408
05-31-2015, 07:01 PM
Made a couple of supports for the PDC that bolt through existing holes. This was necessary due to the removal of the OEM battery box which supported the PDC. I'm not totally happy with this and may change it in the future but it is good enough for now.
http://i850.photobucket.com/albums/ab68/98Dak408/P1010018%202_zps5wsvagm6.jpg

Broo42
06-01-2015, 07:53 PM
Looks great! I need to relocate mine to under the bed.

KTK00R/T
06-01-2015, 08:07 PM
Made a couple of supports for the PDC that bolt through existing holes. This was necessary due to the removal of the OEM battery box which supported the PDC. I'm not totally happy with this and may change it in the future but it is good enough for now.
http://i850.photobucket.com/albums/ab68/98Dak408/P1010018%202_zps5wsvagm6.jpg


You should carry these :biggthumpup:

Steve '02CC
06-02-2015, 06:40 AM
I'm curious as to what you guys do about protecting circuits for batteries that are relocated back in the bed. For example the wire to the PDC has no fuse because the factory setup has it just a few inches away from the battery, but if it's in or under your bed then now you're talking feet. Then you have the line to the starter that even in the factory setup is about 2' away, unfused (because it can't really be fused), and is not even protected with a relay. The alternator wire seems especially problematic because unlike the other wires the source of the current could come from either side of this one. With it running to the bed wouldn't both ends need to be protected by a fuse to protected fully against shorts?

Sick 660r
06-02-2015, 08:11 AM
FWIW I just put both wires on the same terminal of the switch when I don't plan on using it. I have too many friends that would jump out of the car at a red light just to flip the switch lol

KTK00R/T
06-02-2015, 01:48 PM
FWIW I just put both wires on the same terminal of the switch when I don't plan on using it. I have too many friends that would jump out of the car at a red light just to flip the switch lol

Luckily mine don't jack with me that much..

PeteRT
06-09-2015, 01:30 AM
You should carry these :biggthumpup:

i'd buy one!

KTK00R/T
06-09-2015, 10:19 PM
i'd buy one!

x2 Mine just flops around hahaha

Adobedude
06-10-2015, 12:00 AM
I'm curious as to what you guys do about protecting circuits for batteries that are relocated back in the bed. For example the wire to the PDC has no fuse because the factory setup has it just a few inches away from the battery, but if it's in or under your bed then now you're talking feet. Then you have the line to the starter that even in the factory setup is about 2' away, unfused (because it can't really be fused), and is not even protected with a relay. The alternator wire seems especially problematic because unlike the other wires the source of the current could come from either side of this one. With it running to the bed wouldn't both ends need to be protected by a fuse to protected fully against shorts?

I fuse everything with a 200 amp fuse between the Battery + and cut off switch, and everything feeds off that. If it blows, everything is dead.

98Dak408
06-10-2015, 12:07 AM
I fuse everything with a 200 amp fuse between the Battery + and cut off switch, and everything feeds off that. If it blows, everything is dead. So you're running one 200 amp circuit breaker and have blown that? Apparently, you can run two 200 amp circuit breakers in parallel and have a total of a 400 amp circuit. I'm thinking this is how I am going to run mine. You may even be able to find a higher amp breaker to run in parallel for a higher rate of protection.

Adobedude
06-10-2015, 12:15 AM
So you're running one 200 amp circuit breaker and have blown that? Apparently, you can run two 200 amp circuit breakers in parallel and have a total of a 400 amp circuit. I'm thinking this is how I am going to run mine. You may even be able to find a higher amp breaker to run in parallel for a higher rate of protection.

It's never blown, the 200 amp fuse goes straight to the alternator, I do have another cable with 130 amp that powers everything else, what is essentially my PDC.

98Dak408
06-10-2015, 12:22 AM
Which circuit goes to the starter motor? I assume it's the 200amp?

Adobedude
06-10-2015, 12:25 AM
Which circuit goes to the starter motor? I assume it's the 200amp?

No...200 amp goes straight to Alternator, 130 amp feeds everything else including starter.

98Dak408
06-10-2015, 12:29 AM
No...200 amp goes straight to Alternator, 130 amp feeds everything else including starter. Wow! Low drag I guess!? Good to know.

Adobedude
06-10-2015, 12:36 AM
Wow! Low drag I guess!? Good to know.

I'll double check Thursday as I'll be under the truck, but I always get the motor spinning, then I hit the fuel pump & ignition, once it starts the water pump and fan.

98Dak408
07-04-2015, 04:24 PM
I made the bottom mounts for the tray and connected it to the frame. Now I will work on the top support braces to connect to the upper portion of the frame.

http://i850.photobucket.com/albums/ab68/98Dak408/P1010020_zps04ej6exq.jpg

blackknight
07-04-2015, 07:17 PM
Looking good sir! :biggthumpup:

98Dak408
07-04-2015, 07:30 PM
Thanks man!

98Dak408
07-05-2015, 09:16 PM
A little more progress today:

http://i850.photobucket.com/albums/ab68/98Dak408/p1010022%202_zpsgnyt5gks.jpg

http://i850.photobucket.com/albums/ab68/98Dak408/P1010026_zpsiumtqv0s.jpg

http://i850.photobucket.com/albums/ab68/98Dak408/P1010029_zps0ugzscho.jpg

blackknight
07-05-2015, 10:41 PM
Sweet! Are you cutting a trap door on the bed?

98Dak408
07-05-2015, 11:48 PM
Sweet! Are you cutting a trap door on the bed?

No. There's quite a bit of head room.

http://i850.photobucket.com/albums/ab68/98Dak408/P1010033_zpsjvdecxvs.jpg

ScojoDak
07-06-2015, 01:09 AM
Are you cutting a trap door on the bed?

Not a bad idea. Maybe run some lugs to the corner of the bed.

98Dak408
07-11-2015, 01:21 PM
Where I have it positioned the fuel tank and bed brace are directly overhead. I’m thinking I may be able to access the battery connections through the rear wheel well by removing the splash shield. Other than that, I’ll have to crawl under the vehicle. I’ll see how it goes. I can always change things in the future.

http://i850.photobucket.com/albums/ab68/98Dak408/P1010001_zpscrmphqho.jpg

Sick 660r
07-11-2015, 05:02 PM
I really like the idea of this especially since I would be able to still run my truck with the bed off but it seems like it would turn into a real pain in the ass. I feel like terminals in a convent location would be a must.

98Dak408
07-11-2015, 07:00 PM
I really like the idea of this especially since I would be able to still run my truck with the bed off but it seems like it would turn into a real pain in the ass. I feel like terminals in a convent location would be a must.


Yeah, anywhere underneath is a bigger PITA to deal with but I still want to be able to put stuff in the back and use it kind of like a pickup truck on occasion. Lol And, with a full spare tire underneath, finding real estate for it becomes difficult. Since I don’t have mufflers there any longer, and for handling purposes, I put it where it is. If it was mounted closer to the axle, a trap door could be used to make it easier if you were willing to do that. Since the frame turns up at that spot, mounting brackets would be more difficult to fabricate… I haven’t totally figured out my wiring yet. If I want to take it to the strip, then I need the cut-off switch in the back and I would put the battery lugs/terminals there as well. But if I just run the wiring up to the front without a cut-off switch for now, then I may place the battery lugs/terminals (for jumping if necessary) in the engine compartment close to the PDC. This is also why I went with a yellow top deep cycle battery. I’m hoping it will handle periods of nonuse without damaging it too much. I would use a battery tender.

Sick 660r
07-12-2015, 10:53 PM
All makes sense. I run a yellow top as well and I'm really considering putting it behind the intercooler heat exchanger. It wouldn't be to hard to get to and it will reduce the hassle to remove the bed. I have a large switch on mine that I throw to unhook the battery. Very convent.

98Dak408
07-14-2015, 12:49 PM
Definately want a cut-off switch. Also giving some thought to a battery quick-disconnect plug like those used on a battery powered hi-lo to make battery removal a little easier.

98Dak408
07-14-2015, 02:08 PM
I'm also looking at the possiblity of a circuit breaker with a valet switch that would allow for disconnecting the power.

BillMopar
08-10-2015, 11:36 AM
damn nice fab work!

6speedrt
08-27-2015, 11:07 PM
Here is what I did for the charging posts. Also wired a battery tender in for when it sits on jack stands.

12261

98Dak408
08-27-2015, 11:47 PM
Here is what I did for the charging posts. Also wired a battery tender in for when it sits on jack stands.
Wow! Nice super clean truck. Where did you wire in the battery tender?

KTK00R/T
08-28-2015, 12:16 AM
Look familiar. Haha

http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c333/KTK00RT/Dakota/92578238-6ECD-4E4B-BD89-C51E4845BD0F_zpsstztnd1f.jpg

Lonesoldier79
08-28-2015, 12:24 AM
Look familiar. Haha

http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c333/KTK00RT/Dakota/92578238-6ECD-4E4B-BD89-C51E4845BD0F_zpsstztnd1f.jpg

Nice work on the cut off switch and tender terminals now work on some PAH!

G-Man
09-06-2015, 09:05 PM
Look familiar. Haha

http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c333/KTK00RT/Dakota/92578238-6ECD-4E4B-BD89-C51E4845BD0F_zpsstztnd1f.jpg

Ted Ciano's used cars, Wow, I knew him.
G-Man

spawn_x
09-07-2015, 03:26 AM
What about debree, dirt, water, and corrosion protection? Battery is kind of open down there, no?

I want to throw my battery in the same place, but probably put it inside one of those battery boxes to protect from the elements

98Dak408
09-07-2015, 03:11 PM
What about debree, dirt, water, and corrosion protection? Battery is kind of open down there, no?

I want to throw my battery in the same place, but probably put it inside one of those battery boxes to protect from the elements

I’m not too worried about it with this toy. I don't think as much junk flies around up underneath there anyway. This is what the Viper engineers came up with:

http://i850.photobucket.com/albums/ab68/98Dak408/Photo1_zps2qfle6zz.jpg
http://i850.photobucket.com/albums/ab68/98Dak408/Photo2_zpshwo5mlvt.jpg

If it poses a problem, I’ll redesign or modify it.

KTK00R/T
09-07-2015, 07:18 PM
You should carry these :biggthumpup:

Sell me these yet? haha..


Ted Ciano's used cars, Wow, I knew him.
G-Man

big name in pensacola

98Dak408
06-15-2016, 01:44 AM
Made a couple of supports for the PDC that bolt through existing holes. This was necessary due to the removal of the OEM battery box which supported the PDC. I'm not totally happy with this and may change it in the future but it is good enough for now.


You should carry these :biggthumpup:

I Produce the PDC Support Brackets now:

http://www.dakotart.com/forum/showthread.php?36904-HiPoTek-PDC-Support-Brackets-Dakota-1997-2004

http://stores.hi-potek.com/hipotek-pdc-support-brackets-dakota-1997-2004/