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View Full Version : Light bulb grease: yea or nay?



Steve '02CC
01-19-2014, 07:30 AM
In 2011 I got aftermarket taillights and LED bulbs for the rear, and since last summer people often commented that my rear passenger side wasn't working. They'd say the reverse light wasn't working at all, the entire light wasn't working at all, or the turn signal blinker was hardly noticeable. I was able to reproduce the turn signal problem, but I never duplicated complete failures on the rear lights. Now I'm getting the rapid blink warning so I did something about it.

When I originally seated the bulbs I used a small amount of that bulb grease stuff and over time it seems to clump up or dry or something. I reseated the bulbs and saw no improvement so I cleaned everything. I cleaned the remaining gunk from the bulbs and cleaned the bulb plugs in a bath of vinegar and salt (FYI this cleans corrosion from copper fast). I even replaced the upper bulb plug with a junkyard one. I installed, tested, and found the bulbs work great with a nice strong turn signal blink. I'm still getting a rapid blink in the dash but that might be the front bulbs going bad.

So does this light bulb grease cause problems? Should I remove and clean the other taillight too?

I didn't replace the lower bulb plug because it was actually different than the one from my truck (this one only had 2 metal prongs while mine had 3). I think these replacements came from a '00 or '01 so I'm surprised something like this would change at all.

Is there a way to test the reverse lights without putting the truck in reverse? This is always a PITA to test because I have to get my camera out and take videos.

tcuillier
01-19-2014, 09:14 AM
In the Electrical trade, which I was in for 40 years, we used a product called Noalox. It's an oxide inhibitor, anti seize compound that improves the efficiency of electrical applications. It was originally designed to used on aluminum conductors, but works well on copper and especially well where dissimilar metals meet. Such as a brass base bulb that inserts into a steel or aluminum socket.
It's a grey colored greasy compound that's cheap, easy to apply (use a brush to work it into the surfaces of both pieces---a toothbrush will work just fine)
You can pick up a small bottle at any Home Depot or Lowes and most any hardware store for 5 or 6 bucks. It goes a long way.

I just thought of another product that works real well on copper to copper, copper to brass that also protects against corrosion, rust and oxidation. It's also a grease based compound. You can use it on all metals except zinc or zinc plated. Should be available anywhere that carries Noalox, but it's much spendier!

NOTE: Be aware both products promote the conduction of electricity. Make sure not to over-apply and thus provide a conduction path to create a short!

bwdakrt
01-19-2014, 10:59 AM
I've been using dielectric grease on bulb bases for years and have never had that problem. I smear on a very thin coat on the bulb base only and not inside the socket itself.

As for checking your backup lights...back up to a big glass window or door and check your rear view mirror. You can check all your rear lights in 15 seconds or less. :biggthumpup:

ScojoDak
01-19-2014, 01:28 PM
I've been using dielectric grease on bulb bases for years and have never had that problem. I smear on a very thin coat on the bulb base only and not inside the socket itself.

Ditto here.

Steve '02CC
01-19-2014, 04:17 PM
Maybe I used too much of this stuff. If you use it right should you see any of it at after application or even 2-3 years later, or do you use such a light film that aside from a greasy shine you should never see it at all?

Hugh Jassole
01-19-2014, 05:38 PM
I always cleaned out the gunk with WD40 and just let them be after that :idunno:

Steve '02CC
01-19-2014, 07:17 PM
I checked the parking lights and the only problem is that the plug wasn't tight to the wiring. I still cleaned everything and changed the bulbs anyway, but I think the plug itself is a bit bad because I had a hard time really getting it in. I was going to get some Noalox from Lowes, but the dielectric grease at the Advance Auto Parts was right there so I got it. It's a lot like the stuff I used before but we'll see.

I reopened the taillight to lightly apply some to the connections I cleaned yesterday and noticed that the copper connector inside the backup light is very loose. I was using a tiny paint brush and was able to push it back and forth so this must be broken since I can't imagine any reason it would be so easy to move.

I never could replace one of my license plate lights with LEDs back in the day. I tried again today and that plug was very corroded. Even after cleaning the problem remained that the bulb worked fine when loosely pushed in but when I'd push it in the whole way it would shut off. I "fixed" it by drilling two tiny holes at the base of the silicone stalk of the LED bulb and weaving a thin piece of copper wire I unraveled from a real wire around and around and around on each side to fatten up the connection. Worked like a charm, but I think I'm going to need to replace the plug anyway.

Steve '02CC
01-19-2014, 07:28 PM
FYI: This is what the grease I used looks like after a while:

http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd209/Scuba_Steve1974/My%20Dakota%20Pics/3a72f731-504a-4dbe-9230-46ce73fbb042_zps9c40e8ab.jpg (http://s220.photobucket.com/user/Scuba_Steve1974/media/My%20Dakota%20Pics/3a72f731-504a-4dbe-9230-46ce73fbb042_zps9c40e8ab.jpg.html)

It looks dried out and takes on a greenish tint. The stuff I used in the past was from these little red packets the size of a hand wipe called "Bulb Grease" and it is manufactured by AGS Company.

99dart
01-19-2014, 10:39 PM
I use die-electric grease, just a light smear. Especially on home light sockets that I have problems with. I remember that gray greasy stuff Tom. Right outta high school I bought a mobile home. And, the main wire from the meter was aluminum.