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View Full Version : What's needed to run an old style 4bbl M1?



GoFastGray
02-23-2013, 04:47 AM
Tired of reading after 5 pages of searching.
So what all is needed to run an older style 4bbl M1?

Stock fuel rails fit?
2bbl M1 install kit work with it?
Stock fuel rails fit fine?
How much really needs to be cut on the acc. bracket to run A/C?
Need a BB thermostat and gasket, what about the housing to fit the upper coolant hose? And BB as in 440/383(?)
Different IAT need to be used?
Vacuum tree I'm aware of.

Thanks :biggthumpup:

99dart
02-23-2013, 05:46 AM
Danno will know for sure. I was helping him when he installed one YEARS ago. All I can remember is the stock fuel rails fit. The 2bbl install kit may fit. T-stat housing can be anything in the old larger style that comes straight up.
Spectre Performance 4739 Thermostat Housing Water Outlet | eBay



IAT will be fine mounted anywhere really.

Trueblue R/T
02-23-2013, 06:44 PM
LOl I thought you meant OLD style M1 4-bbl And I was going to say a carburetor.

White Turbo
02-23-2013, 06:52 PM
Yeah stock rails fit.
You need the spacers from the install kit to fit them.
I can't remember how much I had to cut off the bracket, But you notch it in the back corner. Should be easy to figure out once you try and fit it in place.
Same IAT can be used. Can't remember now if I had to drill a hole to mount it.
I have the T-stat housing if you need it. (pictured above). PM if interested.

dakrt23
02-23-2013, 08:06 PM
Kev, just went through this headache with my heads cam swap and went from 2 bbl to old style 4 bbl. there isn't an IAT provision so I had to have the 2 barrel adapter machined to accept this. The machinist decided the best place for it was the sloped side where it was thicker. Despite my best efforts to turn the adapter around since it's symmetrical the bolt holes didn't line up so I ended up having to lengthen IAT wires. The bypass hose will accept the factory one just turned 45 degrees. It's a tight fit though and an old hose won't flex enough, my new one went on much easier. Get a 2 barrel to 4 barrel adapter kit and also a vacuum tree from Richard at hipotek. Both of those made swap muuuuchhh easier. Everything else is pretty straight forward. I had hood clearance issues with my old base plate and 1" spacer but with no spacer everything cleared.

dakrt23
02-23-2013, 08:10 PM
Oh and I used a premium 180 t stat from a 70s 360 with a tstat housing I had layin around from my 69 dart project. It all fits correctly but I am having persistent thermostat housing leaks. Haven't truly dove in to fix it but it's getting annoying.

lunchbox
02-23-2013, 09:14 PM
same here mopar themostat and a SB chevy neck little bit of RTV.

http://i1082.photobucket.com/albums/j364/briancarlaakers/IMAG0295.jpg

GoFastGray
02-23-2013, 09:17 PM
Kev, just went through this headache with my heads cam swap and went from 2 bbl to old style 4 bbl. there isn't an IAT provision so I had to have the 2 barrel adapter machined to accept this. The machinist decided the best place for it was the sloped side where it was thicker. Despite my best efforts to turn the adapter around since it's symmetrical the bolt holes didn't line up so I ended up having to lengthen IAT wires. The bypass hose will accept the factory one just turned 45 degrees. It's a tight fit though and an old hose won't flex enough, my new one went on much easier. Get a 2 barrel to 4 barrel adapter kit and also a vacuum tree from Richard at hipotek. Both of those made swap muuuuchhh easier. Everything else is pretty straight forward. I had hood clearance issues with my old base plate and 1" spacer but with no spacer everything cleared.


Oh and I used a premium 180 t stat from a 70s 360 with a tstat housing I had layin around from my 69 dart project. It all fits correctly but I am having persistent thermostat housing leaks. Haven't truly dove in to fix it but it's getting annoying.

Yea, noticed the adapter fits one way.
New bypass has, cheap enough not to mess with the old one, they're tough no matter what combo you have.
2bbl to 4bbl adapter (kit)? And planned on getting a tree from Richard.

Now the leak has me worried. The previous owner had leaks too. Wonder if i can RTV it enough to prevent it from leaking, wonder if it's a common problem with this style M1?

Danno
03-01-2013, 05:57 PM
Wow,

Hittin the WAY back machine for this one.

Vacuum tee has already been hit.

IAT relocate is a PITA as well. I ended up drilling and tapping inbetween the front intake runners for mine, because I am not using the 2bbl Adapter. Going in the front of the 2bbl adapter should be ok, but use plenty of the liquid teflon tape when putting it together to keep it sealed.

Fuel rails were ok IIRC, maybe a couple of spacers needed, but nothing major.

AC bracket cut. Cut the rear inner AC compresser mount boss off. There is sort of a square hole to the inside of that boss, that if you take and cut to include that hole, it will be an easy and clean cut, and easy to put back together if you ever so decide ( I did :) ).

Thermostat housing is anything pre-76 Mopar. GET A CAST IRON HOUSING, as the cast and chrome ones WILL leak. The heavy cast iron housings are bullet proof. Stant does sell a stainless thermostat in the large size, or at least they still did just a couple of years ago.

That should about cover it, there is a spot for the Coolant temp sensor in about the stock location, as well as a spot for the stock heater hose pipe. You will have to block the one other water outlet with a pipe plug, again use teflon liquid tape for that.

Bypass hose CAN be tricky, I just used a LA bypass hose because it was closer to the correct shape and length. It seemed to work ok.

Ok THAT should be about it. hahaha

Danno

dakrt23
03-03-2013, 03:52 AM
any recommendations on which brand cast iron housing? I need to not have my clean motor dripping coolant all down the valley anymore...

Danno
03-05-2013, 07:13 PM
any recommendations on which brand cast iron housing? I need to not have my clean motor dripping coolant all down the valley anymore...

Doesnt matter which brand, just get a good quality heavy one. One of the pot metal ones will not do the job.

Youll know which is which by the weight alone.

Danno

AverageRT
03-11-2013, 03:48 PM
What is the fitting called that the bypass hooks too? Also what size plug do I need for the other heater hose next to thermostat?

dakrt23
03-11-2013, 05:24 PM
Pretty sure it's called a bypass hose fitting part number dcc-4876374 from summit... The plug I got from a regular auto parts store. I brought manifold with me and bought first plug that fit in the hole. Went to fill truck with water and it leaked. I had bought metric which screwed in just fine but did not seal. I got the correct size standard pipe plug and no more problem.

AverageRT
03-12-2013, 05:10 PM
What about the second heater hose connection size. I need to get a plug to plug it.

dakrt23
03-12-2013, 05:54 PM
couldnt tell you, i grabbed 2 or 3 that looked right and then used the right one... they are like a buck each.

Trueblue R/T
03-14-2013, 01:33 AM
if you get a t-stat o-ring that fits over the outer edge of the t-stat no more leak.

AverageRT
03-17-2013, 03:48 PM
Got the intake installed and running but now the speedo is maxed out at 120. What did I miss or what broke?

GoFastGray
05-23-2013, 06:26 AM
Stock rails don't bolt up. Both sides need the adapter to be ground down. It's already powder coated...so plan "B".
Using the 4bbl rails I bought for the gray truck. I need to upgrade that one anyways and I haven't even installed them yet.