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View Full Version : 5.9 Re-Fresh on Budget



RTchas
09-23-2012, 02:37 AM
Ok here's the deal, My DD has some leaky freeze plug's and 96k on it's 5.9 and I don't feel like fixing two plugs to have another plug somewhere else start leaking too. Not to mention one plug is behind the motor mount and hard to get at. I figure it's time for a re-freshed 5.9. I wanna build one and pop it in on a long weekend so as to not be without my DD:biggthumpup:

The Donor: 139k 5.9 from 99 R/T (Free/traded parts)
Thanks Drobinson for going LS1 and hooking me up!

http://i808.photobucket.com/albums/zz4/rtchas/IMG_20120916_100302.jpg

Got it last Sunday and tore it down and sent crank/heads to machine shop for Replacement 10 under crank and get heads checked.

http://i808.photobucket.com/albums/zz4/rtchas/IMG_20120916_221813.jpg

Stripped to bare block ever dowel pin plug bushing bearing OUT!Then degreased it scrubbed and pressure washed the crap outa it! Thru in Freeze plugs and gave it some color.

http://i808.photobucket.com/albums/zz4/rtchas/IMG_20120919_151355_zps5d6fc35b.jpg

Bad news yesterday Heads are booth cracked one leaking in port other not leaking but cracked:fml:
Crank should be ready Monday/Tuesday $250 exchanged with all bearings.

Had My Good friend Bill (Machinist) bring over his bore gauge and we went thru the whole gam it of checks on the Cyl's to be sure they are round and not worn. Everything checked out to be plenty thick and round so a good Hone and standard ring's go back in:rockwoot:

Today Fedex dropped a Big Box from Rockauto $486.76 later I got a lot of the parts to do this build:biggthumpup:

Only part's I got from Jeg's where $48.00 for Mopar plug kit P5249261AB

Working on another set of OEM heads going to get them Sunday hope they are not cracked:nono:

Stay tuned for up dates:biggthumpup:
Next up.
Hone it with my ball hone, clean up main cap area on block and caps themselves install crank and install cam bearings.

Broo42
09-23-2012, 04:32 AM
Good luck with the re-build. I was fortunate enough that my 178k mile heads weren't cracked when I rebuilt mine. I didn't do my homework and now I'm wishing that I had used a smaller cam. :fml:

RTchas
09-24-2012, 03:11 AM
Ok update!
Block is Honed and I surfaced the main cap's and block Cap saddle area.
Bead Hone I used

http://i808.photobucket.com/albums/zz4/rtchas/IMG_20120923_130436_zps5ee83ae0.jpg
Ready for slug's
http://i808.photobucket.com/albums/zz4/rtchas/IMG_20120923_130425_zpsabdda8dd.jpg

Got the parts layed out and ready to go once the crank comes back.

http://i808.photobucket.com/albums/zz4/rtchas/IMG_20120923_194929_zpscb279371.jpg

And I got these too ! Im sending them out in the morning to get looked at for cracks.

http://i808.photobucket.com/albums/zz4/rtchas/IMG_20120923_124857_zps113f4b4f.jpg

moparracer89
09-24-2012, 10:46 PM
What do you mean you "surfaced the main caps"?

matt360r/t
09-24-2012, 11:31 PM
id guess he means line honed the mains?

RTchas
09-24-2012, 11:38 PM
What do you mean you "surfaced the main caps"? I ran a file over the mounting area on the block and then the cap's themselves. Remove's any bur's and gives a clean surface for the cap to sit on.


id guess he means line honed the mains?

Please read the thread title "B" word part specifically :finger:

matt360r/t
09-24-2012, 11:59 PM
oh man cutting all kinds a corners eh

ironsport1000
09-25-2012, 12:42 AM
Please read the thread title "B" word part specifically :finger:


You mean to tell me that isn't an R3 block. :jester:[/QUOTE]

Na, this build is just a "refresh" for the DD, not for the red truck. Heven help us all when Chas builds a motor for the red truck. The term "Balls to the wall" comes to mind:jester:

RTchas
09-25-2012, 12:46 AM
oh man cutting all kinds a corners eh
No not cutting corner's just saving money and building stock 360 for daily service:drive: No track star here:nono: I'll leave the stock N/A record for Jim and Chris O to fight over:jester:

Please read the thread title "B" word part specifically :finger:


You mean to tell me that isn't an R3 block. :jester:[/QUOTE]

Just for that I will head to store and buy a punch set and stamp an R3 on it:finger:

RTchas
09-25-2012, 12:52 AM
I'll send the check. :biggthumpup:

PP it's faster and this time pay the Fee's or Gift it:rtfm::jester:

ironsport1000
09-25-2012, 12:56 AM
I have a set of stamps,we can make it an "R3","HP" or anything you want.:jester:

ironsport1000
09-25-2012, 01:00 AM
R3 "Budget" edition :rockwoot:

R3/B, got it:biggthumpup:

RTchas
09-25-2012, 01:14 AM
HP FTW!!! Can I still run stock class at the Nat's ? Is it still stock 5.9 if I put a cam in it?

As for payment Chris, I don't drink guess you forgot who was stealing your water's at the Nat's:biggthumpup:
As for the "BUD":stoner:
My job has testing:nono:

RTchas
09-25-2012, 02:24 AM
Water is going to cost me more though. Oh well.

Post pics more pics as you go through the build.

Gotcha!
Here's what Mailman dropped today:rockwoot:

http://i808.photobucket.com/albums/zz4/rtchas/IMG_20120924_215733.jpg

http://i808.photobucket.com/albums/zz4/rtchas/IMG_20120924_215748.jpg

Thanks Rockauto:biggthumpup:

RTchas
09-26-2012, 02:59 AM
Ok lot to cover tonight, First the two set's of heads booth cracked got picked up for Machine shop along with my Sealed Power Crank Set !!
Crank is 10 under and came with main and rod bearings for $250.00

http://i808.photobucket.com/albums/zz4/rtchas/IMG_20120925_190113.jpg

Im going to have the Mains checked before I drop it in this week.

Next the Carnage from "Head Games"

http://i808.photobucket.com/albums/zz4/rtchas/IMG_20120925_183337.jpg

http://i808.photobucket.com/albums/zz4/rtchas/IMG_20120925_183134.jpg
Look at 12oclock and 6 on exhaust side

http://i808.photobucket.com/albums/zz4/rtchas/IMG_20120925_183108.jpg
See the spark plug hole on L/S crack itty crack

http://i808.photobucket.com/albums/zz4/rtchas/IMG_20120925_183023.jpg
Crack what crack? Mind you I looked at these before they went out and before a steam wash and valves removed it looked ok


http://i808.photobucket.com/albums/zz4/rtchas/IMG_20120925_182924.jpg
Inside so deep a new seat wouldn't fix it nor is it worth the $200 for new seats to go in!

RTchas
09-26-2012, 03:23 AM
Today the Mailman brought this

http://i808.photobucket.com/albums/zz4/rtchas/IMG_20120925_222719.jpg

So I went to work washed the block scrubbed it cleaned off all the gunk from Hone.
Then I popped in new cam bearings with this

http://i808.photobucket.com/albums/zz4/rtchas/IMG_20120925_190014.jpg
http://i808.photobucket.com/albums/zz4/rtchas/IMG_20120925_190038.jpg
http://i808.photobucket.com/albums/zz4/rtchas/IMG_20120925_190053.jpg
http://i808.photobucket.com/albums/zz4/rtchas/IMG_20120925_222859.jpg

Most guys have the shop do this but for $100-80 in labor I do it myself bought the tool and it was $110 used it x2 so it's payed for..lol

After the bearings went in I fit the cam to be sure it didnt bind. All is well.

Then I started installing freeze plugs and pipe plugs along with the intermidiate shaft bushing and oil filter plate. This all came in the MP kit from Jeg's $47.00

http://i808.photobucket.com/albums/zz4/rtchas/IMG_20120925_222936.jpg

Bushing for shaft.

http://i808.photobucket.com/albums/zz4/rtchas/IMG_20120925_222838.jpg

Oil plugs with holes to feed more oil to Timing gear/chain.


http://i808.photobucket.com/albums/zz4/rtchas/IMG_20120925_222756.jpg

After that was finished I went to work cleaning parts and piston's 7 more to go.

http://i808.photobucket.com/albums/zz4/rtchas/IMG_20120925_222737.jpg

RTchas
09-27-2012, 03:46 AM
Update on heads I think I found a new casting set with some work and 2.02's for under $550 stay tuned this is Great News if I do get them!!:r/t smile::rockwoot:

Today I cleaned all the piston's ring lands up and cleaned part's.:jerkit:

huskerrt79
09-27-2012, 12:20 PM
Update on heads I think I found a new casting set with some work and 2.02's for under $550 stay tuned this is Great News if I do get them!!:r/t smile::rockwoot:

Today I cleaned all the piston's ring lands up and cleaned part's.:jerkit:

Chas, looking good buddy!!:rockwoot:

RTchas
09-29-2012, 04:39 AM
Chas, looking good buddy!!:rockwoot:

Thanks' Jason it's not going to be a 408 or anything exciting but if it get's 14-16mpg and dont implode I going to be happy:biggthumpup:


Today:
Had My buddy Bill (Machinist by trade) bring his Hi speed Low Drag gauge's and Micro miter's over for some number's on the Line Bore in the Main's and clearances on bearing's also we check a couple of Rod big end journals to see if they where Bad or not (had some blue discoloring in steel) Guess what 2 rods are outa round by as much as 0015 and 00020 :fml:

So looks like Mo Money Mo Money:rtfm: Proving once again the words Budget and Rebuilt Motor dont go together:jerkit:


http://i808.photobucket.com/albums/zz4/rtchas/IMG_20120928_200135.jpg
Total so far is around $1553.00 in parts no labor or machine work yet.

Hahns5.2
09-29-2012, 03:24 PM
FWIW it was only $60 to have ARP bolts installed and the rods resized for my motor.

yellowdak360
09-29-2012, 07:56 PM
Total so far is around $1553.00 in parts no labor or machine work yet.

Damn mopars are pricy! How much do you think your going to have into it when all said and done? Id like to refresh my motor to near stock specs. Gotta get the pig rebuilt first though :fml:

RTchas
09-29-2012, 09:13 PM
Damn mopars are pricy! How much do you think your going to have into it when all said and done? Id like to refresh my motor to near stock specs. Gotta get the pig rebuilt first though :fml:

I wanted to do it for $1000 or less but with 139K on the motor I got for Free (traded parts) I guess its a crap shot as to what all can be saved:fml:

Thing's I didnt purchase or replace:
Parts-------------------$ Saved

Piston's------------($200-$460) PLUS MACHINE WORK
Oil Pump-----------($25-$150) Won Meling pump @2010 Nats
Rods---------------($300-$500 ) :idunno: Cheaper to recondition
Cam----------------($330-$400) Got Good Low Miles stocker :biggthumpup:

Disclamer price's may vary and are best guess off differant site's

Parts not needed in every build that I bought or had to buy.


Harmonic Balancer -- $60.00
Fan Clutch -- $45.00
Crankshaft -- $250 with Bearings
Heads -- $530shipped with 2.02 valves in new castings from PIE
Lifters -- $150 Clevite
Mopar Plug kit -- $48 I like it cause it covers everything needed in block but you could just replace freeze plugs on the cheap:idunno:
Used Heads------------$50 Got them turned out to be cracked but got good spring's out the deal:idunno:


So Im $1500 into it so far and I think I've got a sound Long block that when finished will run better then stock and last me 100K more miles trouble free:biggthumpup:
Still cheaper then a Long block from Mopar or any other Reman outfit and I know it's put together right with good parts.

RTchas
09-29-2012, 09:15 PM
FWIW it was only $60 to have ARP bolts installed and the rods resized for my motor. good to know what did you pay for bolts?


Nice progress. :biggthumpup:

Thx Chris:biggthumpup:

I wanted the short block finished this weekend but My Rod's will need so machine work to make them right so maybe next weekend it'll be whole:rockwoot:

Hahns5.2
09-29-2012, 10:40 PM
good to know what did you pay for bolts?
Good question, around $70 I think? For just resizing the rods it was $40. But the machine shop I used is definitely on the cheap end of the scale.

What was wrong with the crank that you needed a new one?

RTchas
09-30-2012, 01:04 AM
Good question, around $70 I think? For just resizing the rods it was $40. But the machine shop I used is definitely on the cheap end of the scale.

What was wrong with the crank that you needed a new one?

No spun bearing's but they where so worn that all I saw was copper when I pulled it:nono:

I knew a polish was out of the question and the $250 core swap was very good deal and fast no waiting for turn around on cut crank. The swap was Sealed Power unit out of Fla. very nice machine work my Buddy checked it and it was DEAD NUTs .00010 all across the journals.:biggthumpup:

RTchas
09-30-2012, 01:15 AM
Update : I cleaned the Crank with degreaser and hose the blew it dry with air, oiled it up for install.

I de-burred all the rod's and rod caps. Then washed them torqued the rod bolts on and bagged them for machine shop to check and recondition them on Monday.

I Drooped the crank in set end play and torqued the mains down to have it ready for Rod's and piston's next week:fml:

http://i808.photobucket.com/albums/zz4/rtchas/IMG_20120929_192206.jpg

http://i808.photobucket.com/albums/zz4/rtchas/IMG_20120929_200247.jpg

http://i808.photobucket.com/albums/zz4/rtchas/IMG_20120929_200302.jpg



Cleaned and spray boomed some parts hemi Orange for reassembly .:r/t smile:

http://i808.photobucket.com/albums/zz4/rtchas/IMG_20120929_202002.jpg

Adobedude
09-30-2012, 02:29 AM
Intake looks like a...uhm...

Nevermind

moparracer89
09-30-2012, 02:39 AM
I may have missed it but, did you have the rotating assembly balanced?

Cheezie
09-30-2012, 02:41 AM
Lookin good Chas. :biggthumpup:

RTchas
09-30-2012, 03:20 AM
Intake looks like a...uhm...

Nevermind
A Pumpkin? :jester: It's a DD nothing Fancy here:rtfm:

I may have missed it but, did you have the rotating assembly balanced?
No but after the rod's get a once over from Machine shop I may have too.:fml:


Lookin good Chas. :biggthumpup:

Thank's Man I can't wait to get it finished and the other build started:jester:

RTchas
09-30-2012, 03:22 AM
Intake looks like a...uhm...

Nevermind

BTW Dave, /\ This is what you chose for your 9000th post :jerkit::jester:

moparracer89
09-30-2012, 12:38 PM
I would at least have it checked.

Adobedude
09-30-2012, 01:01 PM
BTW Dave, /\ This is what you chose for your 9000th post :jerkit::jester:

Here's your manifold.

NSFW DO NOT CLICK http://www.sybian.com/sybianindex.html

RTchas
09-30-2012, 01:15 PM
OMG! Your that Dirty Old Man the Wife's always talking about!:ROFLMAO:

But yeah now that you say that it dose look like a crude version of it:jester:

ironsport1000
10-01-2012, 01:44 AM
Did Tom paint that engine for you?

RTchas
10-01-2012, 02:47 AM
Did Tom paint that engine for you?

Why yes he did ! And he copied and pasted it Hemi orange as you can see:finger:

Cheezie
10-09-2012, 08:15 PM
:update:

RTchas
10-10-2012, 02:14 AM
:update:

Ok well had to wait for all the Rod's to be checked out and two failed on big end so $80 later I got 6 polished up on Big end and two reconditioned :biggthumpup:

http://i808.photobucket.com/albums/zz4/rtchas/IMG_20121009_211708.jpg

Yesterday the UPS guy left these on my door step:rockwoot:

http://i808.photobucket.com/albums/zz4/rtchas/IMG_20121009_211612.jpg

http://i808.photobucket.com/albums/zz4/rtchas/IMG_20121009_211553.jpg

http://i808.photobucket.com/albums/zz4/rtchas/IMG_20121009_211539.jpg

http://i808.photobucket.com/albums/zz4/rtchas/IMG_20121009_211531.jpg

They Came from PIE and have 2.02's with oem 1.65 exhaust new casting talking to Chris with work they can flow 240 Im going to leave them be:nono:

I have HD double valve spring's to install and stock ex valves. Then they are ready to go.

Motor build has been on hold this past week because Of LIFE..lol work and Anniversary gotta keep the little Lady happy:idunno:
I hope to get back at it this thursday:biggthumpup:

huskerrt79
10-10-2012, 10:35 AM
Happy Late anniversary buddy:biggthumpup:

RTchas
10-10-2012, 01:55 PM
Happy Late anniversary buddy:biggthumpup:

Thanks Bud 11 years we went back to scene of the crime where we spent first day married together. Hard to believe she still puts up with my shit..

krs1r/t
10-10-2012, 02:02 PM
what truck are you putting this refreshed motor in?

huskerrt79
10-10-2012, 03:54 PM
Thanks Bud 11 years we went back to scene of the crime where we spent first day married together. Hard to believe she still puts up with my shit..

This Friday will be 7 years for us, though we probably wont do much cause she has to work.

RTchas
10-10-2012, 05:12 PM
what truck are you putting this refreshed motor in?

It's for my daily the amethyst 99 it's got 98k and rotting freeze plugs. I will start work on turbo motor once this is swapped out .

99dart
10-10-2012, 05:54 PM
Make sure you do somethin" for her! I'm still catching heck for not doing anything for her birthday a yr ago!! DOH!!



This Friday will be 7 years for us, though we probably wont do much cause she has to work.

krs1r/t
10-10-2012, 07:17 PM
It's for my daily the amethyst 99 it's got 98k and rotting freeze plugs. I will start work on turbo motor once this is swapped out .

:biggthumpup:

Cheezie
10-11-2012, 03:34 AM
It's for my daily the amethyst 99 it's got 98k and rotting freeze plugs. I will start work on turbo motor once this is swapped out .

:rockwoot:

RTchas
10-11-2012, 04:01 AM
UPDATE
Ok so I Got these heads from PIE deal was Chris started build and customer changed direction went with differant heads so he never did finish the Port work or chamber work he did start cleaning up ports on one head and thats how I got them one head was raw cast intake runners one was ported. SO today I gasket matched and cleaned up intake ports on the raw head.

http://i808.photobucket.com/albums/zz4/rtchas/IMG_20121010_212436.jpg
Crappy cell photos!
http://i808.photobucket.com/albums/zz4/rtchas/IMG_20121010_212425.jpg

After that I went ahead and cleaned my low mile exhaust valves and lapped them in and all the new 2.02's

http://i808.photobucket.com/albums/zz4/rtchas/IMG_20121010_232709.jpg

http://i808.photobucket.com/albums/zz4/rtchas/IMG_20121010_232723.jpg

I should get valve seals tomorrow and clean these up and slap them together with the double coil springs HD retainers and keepers I have from the cracked set of heads I bought of Bryan. Then it's on to short block.:rockwoot:

RTchas
10-12-2012, 12:12 AM
Update*
Ok today was assembly day! I got the valve seals from Felpro and a spring compressor from Jim, I first washed the Snot out of both heads with pressure washer to get all the lapping compound and metal dust from last night out.

http://i808.photobucket.com/albums/zz4/rtchas/IMG_20121011_140909.jpg

Then air dry and spray with WD40 to keep rust off them and one by one put the Beehive spring's in with each marked valve in it's proper lapped seat.The finished Heads got wrapped in trash bag and set aside for later.


http://i808.photobucket.com/albums/zz4/rtchas/IMG_20121011_140326.jpg
http://i808.photobucket.com/albums/zz4/rtchas/IMG_20121011_140352.jpg

huskerrt79
10-12-2012, 10:42 AM
Update*
Ok today was assembly day! I got the valve seals from Felpro and a spring compressor from Jim, I first washed the Snot out of both heads with pressure washer to get all the lapping compound and metal dust from last night out.

http://i808.photobucket.com/albums/zz4/rtchas/IMG_20121011_140909.jpg

Then air dry and spray with WD40 to keep rust off them and one by one put the Beehive spring's in with each marked valve in it's proper lapped seat.The finished Heads got wrapped in trash bag and set aside for later.


http://i808.photobucket.com/albums/zz4/rtchas/IMG_20121011_140326.jpg
http://i808.photobucket.com/albums/zz4/rtchas/IMG_20121011_140352.jpg



Hurry up and get this sucker together so you can work on the TURBOOOOOOO Truck!!:biggthumpup:

RTchas
10-14-2012, 02:10 PM
*Update*

Short block is almost complete.

Checked all the rod bearing's for clearance

http://i808.photobucket.com/albums/zz4/rtchas/IMG_20121013_120042.jpg

They are all good little loose nothing outa spec.

Got the ring's gapped all came in middle range of book spec's only one top ring had to be opened up a hair.

http://i808.photobucket.com/albums/zz4/rtchas/IMG_20121013_144525.jpg

So ring's went on and in the slug's go!

http://i808.photobucket.com/albums/zz4/rtchas/IMG_20121013_143530.jpg

http://i808.photobucket.com/albums/zz4/rtchas/IMG_20121013_143541.jpg

Went smooth with this Blue Point ring compressor I borrowed from James
http://i808.photobucket.com/albums/zz4/rtchas/IMG_20121013_162428.jpg

I love this Hammer!
http://i808.photobucket.com/albums/zz4/rtchas/IMG_20121013_163749.jpg

Cam Time!

http://i808.photobucket.com/albums/zz4/rtchas/IMG_20121013_165321.jpg

I don't know why but everytime I do these it remind's me of the game Operation I played as a Kid I keep waiting for a buzzer when I touch a bearing as it's going in..haha

http://i808.photobucket.com/albums/zz4/rtchas/IMG_20121013_165451.jpg

Chain's on! I went DOT TO DOT stk cam dont need a degree

http://i808.photobucket.com/albums/zz4/rtchas/IMG_20121013_174412.jpg

Soooo... Oil pump will get checked out and then It's getting finished up! But not today I'm going to the Game to watch the EAGLES whoop the Lion's :rockwoot:

krs1r/t
10-14-2012, 03:19 PM
I have a new melling oil pump in box never used if u want it chas

RTchas
10-14-2012, 04:12 PM
I have a new melling oil pump in box never used if u want it chas

Haha so do I ...I'm going thru it before it go's on just to be sure tolerance's are good .thx

krs1r/t
10-14-2012, 04:38 PM
Haha so do I ...I'm going thru it before it go's on just to be sure tolerance's are good .thx

No problem!

huskerrt79
10-16-2012, 01:23 AM
Chaz, you may get it running before me....

RTchas
10-16-2012, 01:45 AM
Chaz, you may get it running before me....

I doubt it:jester: not enuff hr's in the Weekend let alone DAY:jerkit:

huskerrt79
10-16-2012, 01:48 AM
I doubt it:jester: not enuff hr's in the Weekend let alone DAY:jerkit:

you telling me bro:biggthumpup:

RTchas
10-16-2012, 04:09 AM
**Update**

Got the Heads on Oil pump on and lifters in!!

http://i808.photobucket.com/albums/zz4/rtchas/IMG_20121015_220935.jpg

This is a New Melling Pump I pulled it apart to check the tolerances on housing and inspect it too. Im so glad I did this I found a chunck os steel in the base of the rotor

http://i808.photobucket.com/albums/zz4/rtchas/IMG_20121015_220927.jpg

I also had to file down so areas inside that had burr's .

Installed all the lifters before the heads went on gave them a few pumps in oil bath first.

http://i808.photobucket.com/albums/zz4/rtchas/IMG_20121015_230440.jpg

FELPRO's
http://i808.photobucket.com/albums/zz4/rtchas/IMG_20121015_230606.jpg

Heads up
http://i808.photobucket.com/albums/zz4/rtchas/IMG_20121015_231358.jpg

Took them to 105 10lbs at a time.
http://i808.photobucket.com/albums/zz4/rtchas/IMG_20121015_234428.jpg


Getting there..
http://i808.photobucket.com/albums/zz4/rtchas/IMG_20121015_234542.jpg

RTchas
10-17-2012, 03:54 AM
**UPDATE**

So I thrashed on it to the point of needing intake bolt's and it's ready!

http://i808.photobucket.com/albums/zz4/rtchas/IMG_20121016_230513.jpg

Oil Pan went on today.

http://i808.photobucket.com/albums/zz4/rtchas/IMG_20121016_230532.jpg
Timing Cover water pump and Dampner all went on without a hitch.

http://i808.photobucket.com/albums/zz4/rtchas/IMG_20121016_231504.jpg

Mock up with some parts off the shelf..lol

http://i808.photobucket.com/albums/zz4/rtchas/IMG_20121016_231446.jpg

http://i808.photobucket.com/albums/zz4/rtchas/IMG_20121016_231426.jpg

http://i808.photobucket.com/albums/zz4/rtchas/IMG_20121016_231416.jpg

So... I need the intake bolts, valve cover bolt's, gromet's and finish this Pig up ..Stay Tuned..lol:rockwoot:

Cheezie
10-17-2012, 04:01 AM
:rockwoot:

GoFastGray
10-17-2012, 04:33 AM
Nice work!
What felpros are those?

White Turbo
10-17-2012, 06:06 PM
I like the Halloween theme with the intake manifold.

Looks like a pumpkin ! :jester:

RTchas
10-18-2012, 03:10 AM
Nice work!
What felpros are those?
9898PT OEM replacement from rockauto


I like the Halloween theme with the intake manifold.

Looks like a pumpkin ! :jester:

That's Just the Look I was after ED:rockwoot:

RTchas
10-19-2012, 02:49 AM
Intake went on and I'm Hour's away from getting it in this Purple PIG !

http://i808.photobucket.com/albums/zz4/rtchas/IMG_20121018_224241.jpg

RTchas
10-20-2012, 04:32 AM
Ok thrashed on this thing today and it's a GO for Saturday!

I made a oil pump primer from an extra drive gear and dist. I had.

http://i808.photobucket.com/albums/zz4/rtchas/IMG_20121019_220113.jpg

http://i808.photobucket.com/albums/zz4/rtchas/IMG_20121019_220131.jpg


I ran it with the drill and keep turning the crank 1/4 turns til I had oil pissing out of every Rocker arm.
As you can see I already swapped out the stock valve gear for some H&S 1.7's with Comp hardened pushrods from my old motor outa the 99.

http://i808.photobucket.com/albums/zz4/rtchas/IMG_20121019_214722.jpg

After that I dropped in drive gear and made sure I was TDC and thru the distrubutor in too got the mount's on it and flexplate. She is ready to go in in the morning:rockwoot:

http://i808.photobucket.com/albums/zz4/rtchas/IMG_20121019_233017.jpg

RTchas
10-20-2012, 04:35 AM
Here's what else I was doing today.

http://i808.photobucket.com/albums/zz4/rtchas/IMG_20121019_112804.jpg
I used that cresent wrench to do everything it's the only tool you need to pull a motor!

http://i808.photobucket.com/albums/zz4/rtchas/IMG_20121019_175527.jpg
UP
http://i808.photobucket.com/albums/zz4/rtchas/IMG_20121019_175538.jpg
UP
http://i808.photobucket.com/albums/zz4/rtchas/IMG_20121019_180111.jpg

And AWAY!
http://i808.photobucket.com/albums/zz4/rtchas/IMG_20121019_180511.jpg

http://i808.photobucket.com/albums/zz4/rtchas/IMG_20121019_180521.jpg

RTchas
10-20-2012, 04:37 AM
FYI I found my greatest fear with the old motor to be true!
Back of the block freeze plug was rusted out and leaking as where 4 in the side of the block!
That's what started this whole Build glad it's out!

Hahns5.2
10-20-2012, 04:55 AM
Same reason I pulled my motor too.

http://i391.photobucket.com/albums/oo356/HahnsB2/2012-06-03_19-07-15_956.jpg

RTchas
10-20-2012, 05:17 AM
Same reason I pulled my motor too.

http://i391.photobucket.com/albums/oo356/HahnsB2/2012-06-03_19-07-15_956.jpg

Same Plug as mine only that thing is taking a shit on your block:flush: :jester:mine was weepy:sad:

Hahns5.2
10-20-2012, 05:49 AM
Ha, I drove it like that for 2.5 years, it got really old.

RTchas
10-20-2012, 12:26 PM
Ha, I drove it like that for 2.5 years, it got really old.

I feel ya I have been adding A/F and water every other day sometimes x2 a day:jerkit:Last week it ran hot l because I forgot to fil it up before work I had no heat for the 45min ride and it was 38*! I pulled in the lot all my co-workers saw it smoking after I shut it down and thought I was crazy:jester:

RTchas
10-20-2012, 03:32 PM
Its IN:rockwoot:

http://i808.photobucket.com/albums/zz4/rtchas/IMG_20121020_094834.jpg

http://i808.photobucket.com/albums/zz4/rtchas/IMG_20121020_095935.jpg

99dart
10-20-2012, 05:23 PM
WooHoo!!

pagnesium
10-20-2012, 06:03 PM
I know it's a pain to keep stopping to take pictures but this is a great thread as a result of your patience. Thanks and nice work

Zac_F99
10-20-2012, 07:32 PM
Fram oil filter FTL.... :nono:

Good work otherwise - I too like to do most stuff the machinist would do...

99dart
10-20-2012, 08:54 PM
Fram's are a good throw away filter after the initial fire-up. Dino oil & cheap filter for a trip around the block, then dump it. :r/t smile:

Zac_F99
10-20-2012, 08:59 PM
Fram's are a good throw away filter after the initial fire-up. Dino oil & cheap filter for a trip around the block, then dump it. :r/t smile:I wouldn't even use them for that... only Mopar, Motorcraft, or AC Delco for me... as they're all made by Purolator

wyotech_cuda440
10-21-2012, 12:35 AM
I wouldn't even use them for that... only Mopar, Motorcraft, or AC Delco for me... as they're all made by Purolator

I don't know about Mopar or Motorcraft filters, but I have cut apart Fram and AC Delco filters- both have the element glued to end caps made out of cardboard, and really crappy anti-drainback valves and bypass valves.

I have also cut open Mobil 1, Royal Purple, and Wix filters, they are made with much more quality- metal endcaps, anti-drainback valves that actually seal against the metal endcap, better bypass valves, etc.

Zac_F99
10-21-2012, 12:44 AM
I don't know about Mopar or Motorcraft filters, but I have cut apart Fram and AC Delco filters- both have the element glued to end caps made out of cardboard, and really crappy anti-drainback valves and bypass valves.

I have also cut open Mobil 1, Royal Purple, and Wix filters, they are made with much more quality- metal endcaps, anti-drainback valves that actually seal against the metal endcap, better bypass valves, etc.Well Mopar and Motorcraft are made by Purolator and AC Delco is the factory supplier to the GM factories SO I would still trust it over a Fram any day...

RTchas
10-21-2012, 03:57 AM
I know it's a pain to keep stopping to take pictures but this is a great thread as a result of your patience. Thanks and nice workThx I forget sometimes to snap certain thing's but I try to get everything I can that's useful info:idunno:


Fram oil filter FTL.... :nono:

Good work otherwise - I too like to do most stuff the machinist would do... Machine work cost $$$$$$$$$$$$ I try to be certain it needs their attention before I ship parts there:nono:


Fram's are a good throw away filter after the initial fire-up. Dino oil & cheap filter for a trip around the block, then dump it. :r/t smile:
/\ I had that filter on the shelf and it went in the trash 10mins after start up:biggthumpup:

I don't know about Mopar or Motorcraft filters, but I have cut apart Fram and AC Delco filters- both have the element glued to end caps made out of cardboard, and really crappy anti-drainback valves and bypass valves.

I have also cut open Mobil 1, Royal Purple, and Wix filters, they are made with much more quality- metal endcaps, anti-drainback valves that actually seal against the metal endcap, better bypass valves, etc. I had a long convo with Chris @ PIE last week he said Napa Gold or WIX are good one's he's cut open alot too.Motorcraft supposed to be good and the HP Frams he said are ok. I have two more Extrgaurd frams on the self they are my last I will go with Napa or WIX from here out. I also wanna shop Brad Penn oil it's sold local to me and is quality stuff I did Rottelia T in the break in.

RTchas
10-21-2012, 03:59 AM
Ok this is the Good the Bad and the ugly on my Build

Good it was under $2000.00 total:rockwoot:

Bad I had ZERO oil pressure 5 second's after start up.:fml:

Ugly I didnt paint the rest of the parts attached to the fresh Pumpkin Motor:jerkit:

RTchas
10-21-2012, 04:01 AM
Started yesterday

http://i808.photobucket.com/albums/zz4/rtchas/IMG_20121019_112804.jpg

Finished Today

http://i808.photobucket.com/albums/zz4/rtchas/IMG_20121020_223631.jpg

RTchas
10-21-2012, 04:08 AM
FYI make sure you use "know" or New parts..I had a heart attack today and this is why!

http://i808.photobucket.com/albums/zz4/rtchas/IMG_20121020_190603.jpg

It was on the donor motor and looked new so I slapped it back on the rebuilt motor and had a great 40psi on gauge for 4 second's then 0 !! I shut it down quick here is first start vid. look at the gauge @ 28sec's BTW I bumped the key and VAROOM it was alive and ticking!!

http://i808.photobucket.com/albums/zz4/rtchas/th_VID_20121020_164116.jpg (http://s808.photobucket.com/albums/zz4/rtchas/?action=view&current=VID_20121020_164116.mp4)

RTchas
10-21-2012, 04:14 AM
SO after a swap of sender's I was back to breathing again and what a relief it was to see good oil pressure's again !!

I added a factory trans cooler to my truck from a part out for future abuse it will see..

http://i808.photobucket.com/albums/zz4/rtchas/IMG_20121020_155634.jpg

After a few WOT run's the RR's stopped ticking and I shot this vid it Prrr's and runs so smooth the tach never move's at idle. I like the low end grunt it gained I bark 2nd now harder then it ever has since I picked it up. Yes I drove it hard with 5miles on it !
http://i808.photobucket.com/albums/zz4/rtchas/th_VID_20121020_185934.jpg (http://s808.photobucket.com/albums/zz4/rtchas/?action=view&current=VID_20121020_185934.mp4)

RTchas
10-21-2012, 04:18 AM
And as soon as one leave's the stand another one takes it's place..lol
http://i808.photobucket.com/albums/zz4/rtchas/IMG_20121020_192436.jpg

Why it was pulled

http://i808.photobucket.com/albums/zz4/rtchas/IMG_20121020_224535.jpg

http://i808.photobucket.com/albums/zz4/rtchas/IMG_20121020_224521.jpg

http://i808.photobucket.com/albums/zz4/rtchas/IMG_20121020_224509.jpg

RTchas
10-21-2012, 05:19 AM
Crankshaft with Bearings $250.00
2 Rod's recon and polish all big end $80.00
Heads shipped with 2.02 valves in new $530.00
Clevite Lifters $150.00
Cam Bearings $23.00
Mopar Plug kit $48.00
Hemi Paint Pepboys $30.00
Cloyes Double roller Timing Set $100.00
Used Behive springs $50.00
Gaskets (had an intake set already) $92.00
Cleaning Solvent's Wally world $9.00
Oil and Filter AntiFreeze Autozone $40.00
So parts needed for build came to $1408.00
I bought a fan clutch and new Dampner too and I had the oil pump and intake gasket's sitting here. But include them and it's still under $2000.00

huskerrt79
10-23-2012, 12:33 AM
Crankshaft with Bearings $250.00
2 Rod's recon and polish all big end $80.00
Heads shipped with 2.02 valves in new $530.00
Clevite Lifters $150.00
Cam Bearings $23.00
Mopar Plug kit $48.00
Hemi Paint Pepboys $30.00
Cloyes Double roller Timing Set $100.00
Used Behive springs $50.00
Gaskets (had an intake set already) $92.00
Cleaning Solvent's Wally world $9.00
Oil and Filter AntiFreeze Autozone $40.00
So parts needed for build came to $1408.00
I bought a fan clutch and new Dampner too and I had the oil pump and intake gasket's sitting here. But include them and it's still under $2000.00



Nice work buddy. :rockwoot:

RTchas
10-23-2012, 04:07 AM
Nice work buddy. :rockwoot:

Thank you Sir.:r/t smile: So far 90 miles and no problems watching front dampner seal she has some drips of oil I may have a leak:jerkit: Sucks cause everything there is NEW I changed the oil so Maybe it was thinned out from all the Moly lube's :idunno: I have the trans pan off now:drive: I will adjust bands tomorrow and fire it up for a road test and keep checking it to see if I need to pull it apart. I had two other small leaks from P/S hose and trans cooler lines not related but could have blown back on dampner:idunno:
http://i808.photobucket.com/albums/zz4/rtchas/IMG_20121022_225802.jpg

BryanRT360
10-23-2012, 08:36 AM
Great work buddy

Kingst3r
10-23-2012, 03:45 PM
My front seal was leaking and spraying oil everywhere. Everything is new so i assume its just not seated correctly.

RTchas
10-23-2012, 04:49 PM
My front seal was leaking and spraying oil everywhere. Everything is new so i assume its just not seated correctly.

I hoping it's that if not I have a repair sleeve and another new seal on the work bench ready:fml: I dont wanna rip it apart again I took my time made sure it was done right the first time if it fails it's from poor parts not me:nono:

RTchas
10-24-2012, 03:28 AM
Well buttoned up the trans after the band adjustment and replaced the tail shaft seal while the D/S was out I changed it too:rolleyes:

So I filled trans and went out on a short 5mile trip put it up in the air AND Fuck Me if that front crankshaft seal is'nt still pissing on to the pan and down on the rack:fml:

I will drive it to work tomorrow and check it after work after the 50mile run if it still is pissing I'm pulling the POS outa there and either going to sleve the DORMAN Dampner and replace the seal Or reinstall the old 2 piece OEM one!

THIS BLOW'S cause I greased it good on the seal surface and the dampner when I installed it with the Dampner installer it should have had a perfect sealing surface :jerkit:

RTchas
10-25-2012, 03:55 AM
So I got the dampner ready off the old motor by installing a sleve so the new seal has fresh surface when I do this job the 2nd time!

http://i808.photobucket.com/albums/zz4/rtchas/IMG_20121024_221519.jpg
http://i808.photobucket.com/albums/zz4/rtchas/IMG_20121024_221525.jpg

I sprayed it Hemi orange and cleaned up the pulley got the seal ready to go after work I may jump on this project if I'm still seeing oil piss out:fml:
http://i808.photobucket.com/albums/zz4/rtchas/IMG_20121024_223130.jpg

RTchas
10-25-2012, 04:06 AM
I was cleaning up and figured why not scope out the guts of my first two oil filters on new build Enjoy

PH16 base fram filter was on motor for 8min's and 0 miles. Found some dirt some paint and very little metal in the cheap cardboard media.

http://i808.photobucket.com/albums/zz4/rtchas/IMG_20121024_193042.jpg
http://i808.photobucket.com/albums/zz4/rtchas/IMG_20121024_193054.jpg
http://i808.photobucket.com/albums/zz4/rtchas/IMG_20121024_193142.jpg
http://i808.photobucket.com/albums/zz4/rtchas/IMG_20121024_193152.jpg


Number 2 Fram PH16 "Tough Guard" was on the truck for 90 miles and two days with some WOT run's on Highway trip to work. I wasn't impressed with it at all the only difference's in the two is case and silicone rubber used also the TG is filled with different cardboard media as you can see in pic below about 12' longer layed out:jerkit:

http://i808.photobucket.com/albums/zz4/rtchas/IMG_20121024_194537.jpg

http://i808.photobucket.com/albums/zz4/rtchas/IMG_20121024_220941.jpg

SO these are my last Fram filter's EVER I will be going with WIX or K&N HP or Napa gotta shop around and see whats what:biggthumpup:

RTchas
10-25-2012, 04:09 AM
BTW Im happy to report NO heavy metals in the two filter's very fine metal is all I saw and it was in small amount so Im happy about that!

wyotech_cuda440
10-25-2012, 06:22 PM
Always a good thing when you don't find metal :biggthumpup:

Btw, next time you cut open a filter, fold it all up tight like an accordion, and clamp it in your bench vise. As you clamp down and squeeze out the oil, wipe it off the filter with a rag so it doesn't drip everywhere.

When you unfold it, it will look like dry cardboard and any debris or metal is much easier to see.

RTchas
10-25-2012, 06:41 PM
Always a good thing when you don't find metal :biggthumpup:

Btw, next time you cut open a filter, fold it all up tight like an accordion, and clamp it in your bench vise. As you clamp down and squeeze out the oil, wipe it off the filter with a rag so it doesn't drip everywhere.

When you unfold it, it will look like dry cardboard and any debris or metal is much easier to see.

Noted:biggthumpup:

RTchas
10-26-2012, 12:50 AM
UPDATE*Went past Jim's work (Ironsport) and had my Fuel Sync check on Modus, it was +4 and my MPG's sucked:jerkit:

After a tweak Jim set it @ 1 and off I went:drive:

Got home Oil leak was stilling pissing out and down onto the rack today after work:fml:

SO I grabbed 3 claw puller and went to work! Removing the POS Dampner from Rockauto:jerkit:

Here is what it looked like once I pulled it off see the oil slung all over and steady running down rubber pan gasket
http://i808.photobucket.com/albums/zz4/rtchas/IMG_20121025_161638.jpg
http://i808.photobucket.com/albums/zz4/rtchas/IMG_20121025_161628.jpg
http://i808.photobucket.com/albums/zz4/rtchas/IMG_20121025_161856.jpg


The faulty Dorman POS see the seal line it's not making full contact patch:rtfm:
http://i808.photobucket.com/albums/zz4/rtchas/IMG_20121025_161720.jpg

Here is my 20K OEM off the 2000 R/T look at the size of contact area I marked with black lines
http://i808.photobucket.com/albums/zz4/rtchas/IMG_20121025_174509.jpg

The DORKMAN POS not making full seal
http://i808.photobucket.com/albums/zz4/rtchas/IMG_20121025_174520.jpg

So I didnt remove the seal it looked ok and from marks on Dorkman it wasnt seal after all:nono:
I pushed the 99 on it with fresh coat of grease and RTV on snout key way.
http://i808.photobucket.com/albums/zz4/rtchas/IMG_20121025_164628.jpg

Finished it up it dab of locktite on bolt and 135lbs of toruqe then cleaned the oil from under belly.
http://i808.photobucket.com/albums/zz4/rtchas/IMG_20121025_172020.jpg
http://i808.photobucket.com/albums/zz4/rtchas/IMG_20121025_172246.jpg

I drove it for 5min's and came back not a drop of oil :rockwoot: The real test come's after work tomorrow when I've got 50miles on it Highway and stop light driving:drive:

Five9Dak
10-26-2012, 11:23 AM
Well at least we know not to use those dampers. It looked like it had a lot worse surface finish as well, can you confirm that?

wyotech_cuda440
10-26-2012, 02:16 PM
Well at least we know not to use those dampers. It looked like it had a lot worse surface finish as well, can you confirm that?

I bought one of those dorman dampers from rockauto, too- it has leaked since day one. I thought maybe the seal would wear itself in, but it didn't. Looks like ill probably end up installing a new seal and a sleeve on the damper.

Chris- the surface on my dorman damper looked exactly like chas' damper, close up it looks like it was finished with 240 grit sandpaper. :jerkit:

Five9Dak
10-26-2012, 02:57 PM
I guess it's still an option for a new damper if you want to rework and sleeve it. Some oem dampers have 15+ year old rubber at this point.

Five9Dak
10-26-2012, 02:58 PM
I wonder if quickly turning it on a lathe to re-finish it wouldn't be enough to get it usable.

wyotech_cuda440
10-26-2012, 03:05 PM
I guess it's still an option for a new damper if you want to rework and sleeve it. Some oem dampers have 15+ year old rubber at this point.

That's exactly why I replaced my stock damper- the outer ring had started to slip off the rubber. I replaced it before it contacted the timing cover, but I've seen them actually rub a hole right through the timing cover if you don't see it in time.

I could throw it on the lathe and try polishing it, but I don't want to end up with a smaller OD. Pressing on a sleeve would be a faster job anyway.

sunike32
10-27-2012, 12:07 AM
I'm not sure what that Dorman piece cost from Rock Auto, but a couple years ago when I noticed my damper had developed a wobble, I bought one from www.damperdoctor.com. They have both the one and two piece style, and at the time I couldn't find anyone else still offering the two piece style that I wanted. It seemed everyone was only offering the one combo piece that includes the pulley. CHR3603 is what I went with from them and it has been flawless.

Sorry to hear your troubles Chas, but glad you finally have it fixed!

RTchas
10-27-2012, 12:47 AM
WELL.... I was Happy to see a dry oil free frame, Rack and oil pan after I drove Home today!!:rockwoot:

I drove to work and didn't even check it in case it leaked I didn't want it to turn my day to shit so after work in the driveway at home I slid under and inspected it. No Shit I stood up and cheered:jester:

So Dorman's finish is CRAP and yes one piece supercedes all year's from Rockauto:jerkit:

I two have seen the damper rub the T-cover and saw mine was pushing rubber out the front so thats why I bought this one.
After removing the motor I saw it wasnt that bad so I shaved off the small amount of rubber and painted it before sticking on this motor:jester:

Funny Jim has Dorman in his 02 with OEM seal no leaks checked it today

I would put a sleeve on any new one from them without hesitation to be safe :nono:

The pit I had in my gut after all the work building this thing only to have oil pissing out the front was NO FUN I will be contacting Rockauto about it stay tuned:idunno:

98DakRT
10-27-2012, 01:14 AM
Been following this thread Chas, glad it all ended up working out for you! What a pain to do all of that work just to have an oil leak:fml:

Atleast the daily has a brand new soul :)

Now time to focus on the red one!!

ironsport1000
10-27-2012, 01:26 AM
Been following this thread Chas, glad it all ended up working out for you! What a pain to do all of that work just to have an oil leak:fml:

Atleast the daily has a brand new soul :)

Now time to focus on the red one!!

OMG Ryan don't poke the bear:jester: The motor from the DD is already on the stand:rockwoot:

RTchas
10-27-2012, 03:09 AM
OMG Ryan don't poke the bear:jester: The motor from the DD is already on the stand:rockwoot:

ON THE STAND AND STRIPPED DOWN TO BLOCK !:biggthumpup:

RTchas
11-25-2012, 08:31 PM
UPDATE went 14.25 yesterday on slicks with short belt.
http://i808.photobucket.com/albums/zz4/rtchas/th_VID_20121124_135013.jpg (http://i808.photobucket.com/albums/zz4/rtchas/VID_20121124_135013.mp4)

http://i808.photobucket.com/albums/zz4/rtchas/IMG_20121124_190200.jpg

JETZcorp
11-26-2012, 10:08 AM
Shyit, that's about a second faster than my truck, and that's with the passenger seat and tailgate chilling in the pits. I suspect my motor's a bit tired. :(

Could be worse, at least it's in a lot better shape than the beater. The legendary three-cylinder CRX!

RTchas
11-11-2013, 03:02 PM
Never updated the progress on this build.
Went to Cecil March of 2013 and ran better ET:biggthumpup:
This was in the 99 DA RC right lane #40 look in awe at that reaction time baby:go!:
http://i808.photobucket.com/albums/zz4/rtchas/IMG_20130309_111717_zps0c2d8f77.jpg
http://i808.photobucket.com/albums/zz4/rtchas/IMG_20130309_231559_zpsaec544ff.jpg

Mods are...
Stock 360 short block with double roller t chain, all new bearing's and ring's with a hone std bore.
OEM used cam
PIE EQ Iron Ram Heads 2.02 intake
H&S 1.7 RR
Crane hardened push rod, behive spring's
Kegger stock TB
K&N CAI
Gibson shorties
punched cat flowmaster catback
Fox Flashed PCM
28" MT Slicks with realpro's
17"M&H Viper skinny's frt
Stock 3.92 rear Unknown shift kit in tran's

Here is the 13.84 race Against Ironsport1000 it was a nail biter thx go out to Dave S. for making this Oscar winning video



RLgDRsXrq0k




video link of best run for Jim 13.90 for me
http://www.delmarvadodge.com/video/sam-0635#

SShiTbox
11-17-2013, 12:57 AM
Thanks for the update. Better pistons and cam and I think it would have made quite the difference but I realize that wasn't the plan. It was just a freshening.

moparmadman
11-17-2013, 03:01 AM
Good ole Cecil County :biggthumpup:

Use to go there every Friday night, that was many moons ago :jester:

RTchas
11-17-2013, 03:18 AM
Thanks for the update. Better pistons and cam and I think it would have made quite the difference but I realize that wasn't the plan. It was just a freshening.

I plan on a Cam and intake swap someday soon. @ the time money was tight and I'm glad I didnt load up the CC cause just 6months later the Turbo truck needed a rebuild:fml:

Piston's would have been nice and I could have bumped thing's up alot but it's a DD and need's to be drinking that cheap gas:lol2:



Good ole Cecil County :biggthumpup:

Use to go there every Friday night, that was many moons ago :jester:

It's got the best Mineshaft air on the East Coast Just ask Dave:jester: