Filthy Filbert
03-21-2012, 04:58 PM
Been a few threads about this lately, some guys looking to go with manual brakes and/or deleted the RWAL stuff.
Here's how!
Picture A:
Brake lines are identified as:
Red -- Rear circuit, Master cylinder to prop valve/brake light warning switch
Yellow -- Front circuit, prop valve/brake light warning switch to T-block on frame where it splits to each front wheel
Black -- Front circuit, Master cylinder to prop valve/brake light warning switch
White -- Rear Circuit, RWAL solenoids to rear axle
http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c6/filbert383/Dakota%20RT%20forum/DSC_0158.jpg
http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c6/filbert383/Dakota%20RT%20forum/DSC_0157.jpg
http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c6/filbert383/Dakota%20RT%20forum/DSC_0156.jpg
Now, for the "how to"
Manual brake swap: disconnect the red and black lines from the current master cylinder. remove master cylinder and brake booster (easiest to do this as a unit, 4 15mm nuts on the inside of the firewall, above the steering column, and the brake pedal push rod retainer clip. should take you all of about 10 minutes to remove the master/booster as an assembly.)
Install your new manual brake master cylinder, most likely after fabricating your own custom adapter bracket to fit the new master cylinder to the firewall. I don't have any pictures of the one I made for the old big block truck, but it was basically a piece of heavy gauge steel with 8 studs welded to it, 4 on each side, one in the bolt pattern of the firewall, the other in the bolt pattern of the master cylinder.
Reconnect the black line to the port for the front circuit on your new master cylinder, and reconnect the red line to the rear circuit port.
This will allow you to retain RWAL while going to manual brakes.
RWAL Delete:
Remove the white line from the RWAL solenoids. Remove solenoids/RWAL computer from inner fender, disconnect the line that runs from the RWAL solenoids to the prop valve/brake warning switch. (this line has no tape in the pictures) Now, Install the white line to the empty port on the brake light warning switch.
This allows you to continue to have the warning light that tells you when your brakes failed. --for those idiots out there who don't know that when your brake pedal goes to the floor and your truck isn't stopping, that your brakes have failed.
Going all out: (This ones for you Dave!)
remove all the lines off the master cylinder, brake light warning switch, and RWAL solenoids. remove brake light warning switch, remove RWAL solenoids and RWAL computer.
this should leave you with just the master cylinder and 2 brake lines, the Yellow and the White in the above picture.
Connect the yellow line to the front circuit port on your master, and connect the white line to the rear circuit port on your master.
NOTE: it's been awhile since I did this to my big block truck, but memory tells me that EVERY line and tube nut on the master, brake light warning switch, and RWAL solenoids, are metric, and use a stupid metric bubble flare. if you retain any of these stock parts, you may have to take the stock line with the stock tube nut and bubble flare, and cut it to add your own splice into the lines so that things fit where they need to go. Also, you cannot use any of these stock bubble flares on most aftermarket master cylinders, because they typically use SAE "Double/Inverted" flares.
ALSO: if you do this mod, and find that your rear brakes lock up prematurely, then you can buy an adjustable prop valve like the one linked below, and dial back the rear brake pressure so that front/rear locks up at the same time
http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS+Performance+Products/555/63020/10002/-1
or, an adjustable prop valve, distribution block, and brake warning switch all in one:
http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS+Performance+Products/555/63025/10002/-1
Here's how!
Picture A:
Brake lines are identified as:
Red -- Rear circuit, Master cylinder to prop valve/brake light warning switch
Yellow -- Front circuit, prop valve/brake light warning switch to T-block on frame where it splits to each front wheel
Black -- Front circuit, Master cylinder to prop valve/brake light warning switch
White -- Rear Circuit, RWAL solenoids to rear axle
http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c6/filbert383/Dakota%20RT%20forum/DSC_0158.jpg
http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c6/filbert383/Dakota%20RT%20forum/DSC_0157.jpg
http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c6/filbert383/Dakota%20RT%20forum/DSC_0156.jpg
Now, for the "how to"
Manual brake swap: disconnect the red and black lines from the current master cylinder. remove master cylinder and brake booster (easiest to do this as a unit, 4 15mm nuts on the inside of the firewall, above the steering column, and the brake pedal push rod retainer clip. should take you all of about 10 minutes to remove the master/booster as an assembly.)
Install your new manual brake master cylinder, most likely after fabricating your own custom adapter bracket to fit the new master cylinder to the firewall. I don't have any pictures of the one I made for the old big block truck, but it was basically a piece of heavy gauge steel with 8 studs welded to it, 4 on each side, one in the bolt pattern of the firewall, the other in the bolt pattern of the master cylinder.
Reconnect the black line to the port for the front circuit on your new master cylinder, and reconnect the red line to the rear circuit port.
This will allow you to retain RWAL while going to manual brakes.
RWAL Delete:
Remove the white line from the RWAL solenoids. Remove solenoids/RWAL computer from inner fender, disconnect the line that runs from the RWAL solenoids to the prop valve/brake warning switch. (this line has no tape in the pictures) Now, Install the white line to the empty port on the brake light warning switch.
This allows you to continue to have the warning light that tells you when your brakes failed. --for those idiots out there who don't know that when your brake pedal goes to the floor and your truck isn't stopping, that your brakes have failed.
Going all out: (This ones for you Dave!)
remove all the lines off the master cylinder, brake light warning switch, and RWAL solenoids. remove brake light warning switch, remove RWAL solenoids and RWAL computer.
this should leave you with just the master cylinder and 2 brake lines, the Yellow and the White in the above picture.
Connect the yellow line to the front circuit port on your master, and connect the white line to the rear circuit port on your master.
NOTE: it's been awhile since I did this to my big block truck, but memory tells me that EVERY line and tube nut on the master, brake light warning switch, and RWAL solenoids, are metric, and use a stupid metric bubble flare. if you retain any of these stock parts, you may have to take the stock line with the stock tube nut and bubble flare, and cut it to add your own splice into the lines so that things fit where they need to go. Also, you cannot use any of these stock bubble flares on most aftermarket master cylinders, because they typically use SAE "Double/Inverted" flares.
ALSO: if you do this mod, and find that your rear brakes lock up prematurely, then you can buy an adjustable prop valve like the one linked below, and dial back the rear brake pressure so that front/rear locks up at the same time
http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS+Performance+Products/555/63020/10002/-1
or, an adjustable prop valve, distribution block, and brake warning switch all in one:
http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS+Performance+Products/555/63025/10002/-1