View Full Version : Trac-lok Differential Rebuild
OntarioRT
01-30-2008, 12:45 AM
I need to replace the clutch packs in my factory Trac-lok rear-end.
Can the clutch packs be replaced without removing the differential from the housing? I've got a factory service manual, but they only show a re-build done on the bench...no mention of doing it by removing the cover plate.
Any information and help appreciated.
Thanks, Tom
BTLFED R/T
01-30-2008, 01:11 AM
I need to replace the clutch packs in my factory Trac-lok rear-end.
Can the clutch packs be replaced without removing the differential from the housing? I've got a factory service manual, but they only show a re-build done on the bench...no mention of doing it by removing the cover plate.
Any information and help appreciated.
Thanks, Tom
I don't know anything about your question, but I just wanted to welcome you to the site! Hope to see ya at the Nats and Woodward again!
Jason
OntarioRT
01-30-2008, 01:44 AM
Thanks, Jason. Looking forward to the meet...its gonna be great!
Skip the stock rebuild and upgrade. I have a Powertrax and love it. It replaces the stock clutch pack and spider gears and can be done in your driveway in a few hours. No need to remove the carrier.
Supercharged408
01-30-2008, 02:17 AM
I need to replace the clutch packs in my factory Trac-lok rear-end.
Can the clutch packs be replaced without removing the differential from the housing? I've got a factory service manual, but they only show a re-build done on the bench...no mention of doing it by removing the cover plate.
Any information and help appreciated.
Thanks, Tom
TOMMMMMYYYYY!!!
Yup, can be done in the truck no problem... gotta take out the axles a bit to do it though.
1) remove wheels
2) remove brake drums
3) remove cover (catch that nasty stinky oil in a pan)
4) rotate the axle untill you see the little bolt/pin that goes into the center of the spider gear and remove.
5) push the axles in a bit and the C-clips should come out, dont loose em.
The rest goes pretty much like it sais on the bench.
Damon
OntarioRT
01-30-2008, 11:49 PM
Skip the stock rebuild and upgrade. I have a Powertrax and love it. It replaces the stock clutch pack and spider gears and can be done in your driveway in a few hours. No need to remove the carrier.
I thought a factory rebuild would be cheaper and faster. I'll check out the
Powertrax.
Thanks, Tom
OntarioRT
01-30-2008, 11:53 PM
Damon, Thanks for clarifying the procedure for me. Will check out upgrading as Brian suggested.
Tom
Factory rebuild may be cheaper, but how long before it breaks again?? I've had my powertrax in two different trucks and probably close to 100K miles with zero problems and both wheels lock every time I hit the gas pedal. Takes a little getting used to, but nothing that will make you not want to drive it. My truck is my daily driver, and i actually prefer the way it feels now over driving a truck with the stock limited slip or even worse open diff.
cbowlin99
02-06-2008, 02:52 PM
I would say look into a different differential, and if you can swing the coin, go with taller gears while in there. I went whole hawg with the 4.56 and a detroit that I got from Damon. Love it. Stomping the gas is like shooting an arrow. It just jumps and goes straight.
1BAD99RT
02-04-2010, 08:17 PM
Once again leave it up to me to bring back another old thread. My rear diff is acting like it needs rebuilt. I called the dodge dealer today and they told me I need to buy a whole carrier for $740. I have a hard believing that there is no rebuild kit for the diff. If there is a rebuild kit, can some one point me in the right direction to find it? The dodge dealer was less than helpful and told me there is no such thing that it is not serviceable. I call BS.
Five9Dak
02-04-2010, 09:39 PM
Factory rebuild lasted me 40k miles, about 15 autoXs and 5 drag strip visits. It cost 80 dollars in parts. Can't really complain.
Nolan
02-04-2010, 10:50 PM
Here's the post with the rebuild parts info
http://www.dakotart.com/forum/showpost.php?p=17360&postcount=1
It's a Dana/Spicer rebuild kit part number 706352x. You can get them here:
http://moesperformance.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=12287&zenid=75cd8b3fe6eedf1033076b7c44f769c7
Nolan
1BAD99RT
02-04-2010, 11:54 PM
Right on guys! Thanks I appreciate it. Just ordered mine.:biggthumpup:
Fast_JR
03-16-2010, 04:23 PM
Randys Ring and Pinion has the same Dana Spicer kit for about $50. The install is not something that can be easily done with the carrier in the diff. I am replaced my clutch packs after 115K miles, when I put in 4.56 gears. Not difficult, but not easy either. It is not hard to remove the carrier and work on it on a bench.
Intense RT
03-16-2010, 05:30 PM
Don't you need a special tool to remove the carrier? Looks like a pipe with a square drive on the end. Definitely unusual. They sell it as a special dodge tool over on PATC. About $125 I think.
Fast_JR
03-16-2010, 06:17 PM
There are side adjusters that set the backlash for the gears. Yes you need a tool, but the tool can be anything that fits the adjusters. Some people buy the $100+ tool, some use a torsion bar out of a junk vehicle, some use a couple of nuts threaded on the end of a rod/pipe. To remove the carrier you don't necessarily need the tool, although it is easier if you it. You can use a screwdriver, or drift to back off the side adjusters through the access hole enough to pull the carrier. When you do this, you will need the tool to reinstall and set the backlash.
The reason I pulled the carrier was to install the gears, so I was pulling it anyway. To replace the clutch packs you have to compress them, and remove and install the spider gears/thrust washers. This was easier to do on a bench.
Intense RT
03-16-2010, 06:43 PM
There are side adjusters that set the backlash for the gears. Yes you need a tool, but the tool can be anything that fits the adjusters. Some people buy the $100+ tool, some use a torsion bar out of a junk vehicle, some use a couple of nuts threaded on the end of a rod/pipe. To remove the carrier you don't necessarily need the tool, although it is easier if you it. You can use a screwdriver, or drift to back off the side adjusters through the access hole enough to pull the carrier. When you do this, you will need the tool to reinstall and set the backlash.
The reason I pulled the carrier was to install the gears, so I was pulling it anyway. To replace the clutch packs you have to compress them, and remove and install the spider gears/thrust washers. This was easier to do on a bench.Thanks. First I've heard an explanation of "why".
So do these adjusters preclude the use of shims to set backlash I assume?
kota360
03-16-2010, 07:46 PM
Factory rebuild may be cheaper, but how long before it breaks again?? I've had my powertrax in two different trucks and probably close to 100K miles with zero problems and both wheels lock every time I hit the gas pedal. Takes a little getting used to, but nothing that will make you not want to drive it. My truck is my daily driver, and i actually prefer the way it feels now over driving a truck with the stock limited slip or even worse open diff.
Hey Brian, I thought you had to have an open diff. to put a power trax in. I had one in my '82 Chev and it was awesome, but the rear needed to be open not LSD. Is it different with the Dodge rear ends?
jmaack727
03-16-2010, 07:54 PM
2 versions available, one for open the other traclok
blk00rt
03-17-2010, 09:41 PM
There are side adjusters that set the backlash for the gears. Yes you need a tool, but the tool can be anything that fits the adjusters. Some people buy the $100+ tool, some use a torsion bar out of a junk vehicle, some use a couple of nuts threaded on the end of a rod/pipe. To remove the carrier you don't necessarily need the tool, although it is easier if you it. You can use a screwdriver, or drift to back off the side adjusters through the access hole enough to pull the carrier. When you do this, you will need the tool to reinstall and set the backlash.
The reason I pulled the carrier was to install the gears, so I was pulling it anyway. To replace the clutch packs you have to compress them, and remove and install the spider gears/thrust washers. This was easier to do on a bench.
100+ for the tool is a lot. I just bought the tool from miller spx for 50 bucks. once it comes in I am pulling the rear end appart to determine what is bad in mine. 90k on it and 3rd rear ends in it so far.
Fast_JR
03-24-2010, 07:13 PM
I have 113K hard miles on mine and no problems with the stock diff. Still smoked both rear tires all day long. I opened it up to change gears and the spring washers were both snapped in many places.
I didn't spend a dime on the tool I made at work, so I lucked out.
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