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View Full Version : Roll Bar install...Again



Adobedude
12-15-2011, 11:52 PM
My first awesome thread killed the forum due to all the response, so this time...Please, for the forums sake....Show some restraint.

(This is a pre bent roll bar from Broke Dick Racing...It's too wide, it would never work with any of the interior re-installed, I suspect the door panels and arm rests won't work either)

This is the PVC pipe jig I made after I drilled the holes in the floor board so I could plumb bob down from the roof to figure out what I needed to cut out.

Adobedude
12-15-2011, 11:53 PM
Once I figured out everything had to be removed...I removed it. I'll rattle can everything before I put the roll bar in for good, it's not going to be covered up with the headliner....

Adobedude
12-15-2011, 11:54 PM
Then I used a styrofoam template just to make sure I was on the right track. The template is the exact size of the outer edge of the roll bar...It's a tight fit.

Adobedude
12-15-2011, 11:56 PM
Here's the pic of the 1st hole and the cut out to weld the main hoop diagonal to the frame. Looks like the round holes were drilled for fun...They won't work after all, but probably knocked off a couple ounces of weight. :rockwoot:

Adobedude
12-16-2011, 12:02 AM
The first round hole was directly in line with the cab mount, which is what I wanted. I planned on mounting the main hoop to an outrigger under the cab mount, and bracing it to the mount...But that would have required the legs of the main hoop to be 51" long...I could not get the bar in the cab.

So... I cut new holes and ended up with the main hoop legs being 47.5" long. I'll weld the out riggers in front of the cab support, get the hoop bent so I can keep it against the back of the cab giving me the seat clearance I want.

More pics to come....

ScojoDak
12-16-2011, 02:07 AM
Lookin good mang!

Adobedude
12-16-2011, 02:40 AM
Lookin good mang!

Main Hoop is in...Piece of cake now....:jerkit:

ScojoDak
12-16-2011, 11:02 PM
Are you going to do the welding?

Adobedude
12-16-2011, 11:16 PM
Are you going to do the welding?

JB WELD FTW...

But to answer your question: Fuck no....LOL

The guy who does my structural steel is. Certified for 35 years.

ScojoDak
12-17-2011, 03:29 PM
Does it have to be NHRA certified for you to run legally?

Adobedude
12-17-2011, 04:03 PM
Does it have to be NHRA certified for you to run legally?

They will check it, trust me, but I don't have to have it certified at my speed.

The track just issued a statement saying all helmets must be Snell 2005 or newer in 2012...Hardcore.

grapejuice1998
12-17-2011, 04:06 PM
They will check it, trust me, but I don't have to have it certified at my speed.

The track just issued a statement saying all helmets must be Snell 2005 or newer in 2012...Hardcore.

That's a standard. There's a chart out there which gives the Snell expiration for the helmets.

ScojoDak
12-17-2011, 04:24 PM
The track just issued a statement saying all helmets must be Snell 2005 or newer in 2012.

No surprize there. I had to have a snell 2005 to run at our street drags this past Sept. So I go and buy a new helmet. The bastards didnt even check it at tech. Oh well, at least it's legal for LVMS or Speedworld.

Adobedude
12-18-2011, 12:46 AM
That's a standard. There's a chart out there which gives the Snell expiration for the helmets.

Mine is a 2005, but even the guys running 13.99 have to have a Snell approved helmet now. They were letting them slide.

Adobedude
12-19-2011, 02:34 AM
Outrigger is mocked up, it's c-clamped to the frame. The tube is welded to a plate,the plate will be welded to the frame and the frame will be boxed on the back side...As previously noted, the main hoop was too wide, you can see how close it is to the body.

Adobedude
12-19-2011, 02:37 AM
Seat mount for the Kirkey seat...

I was able to use the stock seat mount after cutting some of the shit off. Right now it can slide back and forth so I can set the seat location once the bar is in, after that they will be bolted in place.

Adobedude
12-19-2011, 02:45 AM
Seat in place...

I know, it's not black...It was cheap. :biggthumpup:

The stock door panels are being swaped for some custom tin panels anyway.

Next up...Main Hoop supports.

Duner
12-19-2011, 02:50 AM
Seat in place...

I know, it's not black...It was cheap. :biggthumpup:

The stock door panels are being swaped for some custom tin panels anyway.

Next up...Main Hoop supports.

Which Kirkey seat is that.... as in what angle and width?

And how much does one of those seats weigh?

Adobedude
12-19-2011, 02:58 AM
Which Kirkey seat is that.... as in what angle and width?

And how much does one of those seats weigh?

This seat: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/KIR-41500/

I'll weigh it tomorrow....but it's gotta be like 10 lbs or less, angle is adjustable with the Kirkey brackets, and since I can move the seat forward and back, I can dial it it before I bolt it down.

Duner
12-19-2011, 03:00 AM
This seat: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/KIR-41500/

I'll weigh it tomorrow....but it's gotta be like 10 lbs or less, angle is adjustable with the Kirkey brackets, and since I can move the seat forward and back, I can dial it it before I bolt it down.

My current seats are heavy. Too heavy just like my wheels. I'm going to have to fix that. I do like those seats though.

Adobedude
12-19-2011, 03:02 AM
My current seats are heavy. Too heavy just like my wheels. I'm going to have to fix that. I do like those seats though.

Comfy as hell....It's a bit snug, but I need to drop a few beer lbs anyway.

Adobedude
12-21-2011, 01:31 PM
A local guy "Speedy Lee" is building a Dodge Dakota Wheel Stander project, like the Hemi Under Glass...Anyway, he was surfing the web looking for info on Roll bar pics, found this thread.

Here's a picture of how he cut his bed....I think I'm going to do this too, and cover it with a sheet of aluminum. It will allow access to the frame & suspension and allow the battery/fuel cell to be easily mouned to the actual frame as per the rules...I'd like to cross brace the frame too, it's pretty damn springy back there.

EDIT: Speedy Lee is going to join up, he sent me another picture of the bed, he cut the bed in half and has it braced so he can pull the bed off by himself....Perfect!

Adobedude
12-24-2011, 09:59 PM
If it was a 6 point....It would be ready to weld up.

But it's an 8 point, only 2 more bars to go. :rockwoot:

Total weight...78 lbs. :jerkit:

Five9Dak
12-25-2011, 04:17 AM
What is the weight difference per foot for mild versus chromoly? We can adjust to see what it would be had you gone chromoly.

White Turbo
12-25-2011, 05:05 AM
What is the weight difference per foot for mild versus chromoly? We can adjust to see what it would be had you gone chromoly.

30% lighter per pound.

78 - 30% = 54.6 lbs.

Adobedude
12-25-2011, 02:18 PM
What is the weight difference per foot for mild versus chromoly? We can adjust to see what it would be had you gone chromoly.

Wasn't worth the extra cost...for 20-30 lbs.

The guy doing the welding (for free) doesn't Tig. Since I'm doing the install, the 8 point roll bar was only 313.00 shipped. Had I gone with 4130, add over a grand to that for the extra in the kit and to pay to have it welded.

Adobedude
12-26-2011, 06:47 PM
I found some tubing notch software out there...:biggthumpup:

http://www.metalgeek.com/static/cope.pcgi

Megashifter
12-27-2011, 03:35 PM
Once upon a time... I had thoughts of doing this and retaining the functionality of the hard tonneau. 'Came up cost prohibitive for a 7 point installation. Once upon a time... 'could get by with a 3 point (think Ohio George Mongomery's '33 Willy's gasser)... but the lawyers dictate what's Kosher now.

Adobedude
12-29-2011, 12:25 AM
Bars are notched...Should get it welded next week....:woot:

huskerrt79
12-29-2011, 12:55 AM
Bars are notched...Should get it welded next week....:woot:

Looks awesome man!

Adobedude
12-29-2011, 01:11 AM
Looks awesome man!

Just like the wiring I did...Ya gotta do it to know how to do it.

And now I know....:rockwoot:

grapejuice1998
12-29-2011, 02:19 PM
Just like the wiring I did...Ya gotta do it to know how to do it.

And now I know....:rockwoot:

I was wondering what that panel is with all the wiring.

huskerrt79
12-29-2011, 02:24 PM
I was wondering what that panel is with all the wiring.

It cant be the juice, lol, :stirringthepot:

Adobedude
12-29-2011, 02:53 PM
It cant be the juice, lol, :stirringthepot:

It's part of that....I was having fuel pressure issues so I rewired everything. Now It's steady as a rock...Here's a pic before I finished it.

http://www.nmbuilder.com/Panel-o-stuff.jpg

Fan relays are under the hood, Nitrous relays are under the wiper cowl, I try to keep the relay close to the source.

And yeah, I'll spray it in 2012 or I'll donate 500.00 to the club. How's that?

huskerrt79
12-29-2011, 02:55 PM
It's part of that....I was having fuel pressure issues so I rewired everything. Now It's steady as a rock...Here's a pic before I finished it.

http://www.nmbuilder.com/Panel-o-stuff.jpg

Fan relays are under the hood, Nitrous relays are under the wiper cowl, I try to keep the relay close to the source.

And yeah, I'll spray it in 2012 or I'll donate 500.00 to the club. How's that?

Damn that wiring looks good. Oh and we will archive that^^^^.:stirringthepot:

White Turbo
12-29-2011, 02:58 PM
It's part of that....I was having fuel pressure issues so I rewired everything. Now It's steady as a rock...Here's a pic before I finished it.

http://www.nmbuilder.com/Panel-o-stuff.jpg

Fan relays are under the hood, Nitrous relays are under the wiper cowl, I try to keep the relay close to the source.

And yeah, I'll spray it in 2012 or I'll donate 500.00 to the club. How's that?

*Noted* :D

Adobedude
12-29-2011, 03:00 PM
Damn that wiring looks good. Oh and we will archive that^^^^.:stirringthepot:

I can pull every single stock wire out of the truck, even the PDC/PCM...I'm good to go. All part of my going carb plan. But, I might swap the 408 in and use the PCM to get it up and running quicker, I need to be track ready in March.

Scroll down to the bottom of the page...

http://www.nmbuilder.com/Dakota_RT_mods.html

huskerrt79
12-29-2011, 03:05 PM
I can pull every single stock wire out of the truck, even the PDC/PCM...I'm good to go. All part of my going carb plan. But, I might swap the 408 in and use the PCM to get it up and running quicker, I need to be track ready in March.

Scroll down to the bottom of the page...

http://www.nmbuilder.com/Dakota_RT_mods.html

Damn, I can do wires but i need to learn more about the fuse blocks and relays. Looks good man, when you flying out to do mine???:biggthumpup:

grapejuice1998
12-29-2011, 09:56 PM
And yeah, I'll spray it in 2012 or I'll donate 500.00 to the club. How's that?

That's very generous of you! The club can use the money! :biggthumpup:

Jstrag360
12-29-2011, 10:06 PM
Bars are notched...Should get it welded next week....:woot:

You do nice work:biggthumpup:

RTchas
12-29-2011, 11:30 PM
:hail: makes mine look like a Cobbled up POS :jester: nice Job!:biggthumpup:

Adobedude
12-29-2011, 11:50 PM
:hail: makes mine look like a Cobbled up POS :jester: nice Job!:biggthumpup:

Ha Ha...Who was that called my truck a cobbled up POS....?

I'm rewiring a lot of it, like I said...Ya gotta do it once to know how to do it.

Adobedude
01-04-2012, 03:18 AM
Tomorrow is the big day....Welder is coming over to weld the thing up.

:rockwoot:

Duner
01-04-2012, 03:24 AM
Tomorrow is the big day....Welder is coming over to weld the thing up.

:rockwoot:

Congrats!

What did you decide to do for the back window?

Adobedude
01-04-2012, 03:26 AM
Congrats!

What did you decide to do for the back window?

Lexan...Bars come out like yours.

Duner
01-04-2012, 03:28 AM
Lexan...Bars come out like yours.

Mine needs replacing.... The shoe polish they smear all over the back window actually scratches it. Mine is not looking so great.

Adobedude
01-04-2012, 03:35 AM
Mine needs replacing.... The shoe polish they smear all over the back window actually scratches it. Mine is not looking so great.

If you spray here, the write NOS on the back window....:jerkit:

Black98R/T
01-04-2012, 03:43 AM
do they get "8 point" from where the 3 tubes meet up on each side to the main hoop, then the two through the back window?

this is cool watching it be built!

Adobedude
01-04-2012, 03:52 AM
Yep...

The two bars that angle from the main hoop cross bar to the frame are tubes # 7 and 8, and pretty damn important according to my structural engineer.

I'm a home builder, but I ran the 6 or 8 point question by him...The thread was lost when the forum crashed.

Black98R/T
01-04-2012, 03:56 AM
Yep...

The two bars that angle from the main hoop cross bar to the frame are tubes # 7 and 8, and pretty damn important according to my structural engineer.

I'm a home builder, but I ran the 6 or 8 point question by him...The thread was lost when the forum crashed.

makes sense for structural strength to run the 2 down the back..

just put a 6 point in a '66 malibu thats sitting on the shelf now, i think it'll be fine with 6 LOL:biggthumpup:

cool build

Adobedude
01-04-2012, 04:03 AM
makes sense for structural strength to run the 2 down the back..

just put a 6 point in a '66 malibu thats sitting on the shelf now, i think it'll be fine with 6 LOL:biggthumpup:

cool build

Gotta have the two down the back, that's part of a 6 point...The two bars I'm talking about are these.

Black98R/T
01-04-2012, 04:14 AM
Gotta have the two down the back, that's part of a 6 point...The two bars I'm talking about are these.

oh i got you now, i didn't notice that the first time.
just for the record the '66 malibu is a model on my shelf lol:biggthumpup:

how would you do the back window on your truck though, i know you said it will be out of plexiglass but how do you get the #7 and #8 bars through it?
cut slots? drill holes and slide it up before welding the bars?

Duner
01-04-2012, 12:09 PM
oh i got you now, i didn't notice that the first time.
just for the record the '66 malibu is a model on my shelf lol:biggthumpup:

how would you do the back window on your truck though, i know you said it will be out of plexiglass but how do you get the #7 and #8 bars through it?
cut slots? drill holes and slide it up before welding the bars?

On mine I cut slots... Then fit the pieces that came out of the slot area to just remove the part where the bar is. My back window install is the window - and two narrow pieces to fill in the slots.

grapejuice1998
01-04-2012, 02:44 PM
For the shoe polish thing, I wonder if you could put a piece of clear cling wrap over the area, or maybe clear packaging tape?
Oh! Or what about waxing it?

Duner
01-04-2012, 03:17 PM
For the shoe polish thing, I wonder if you could put a piece of clear cling wrap over the area, or maybe clear packaging tape?
Oh! Or what about waxing it?

I have RainX on it. Clear cling wrap might be the answer.

They generally write your ET limit on the back window - so I have been bringing my own in white vinyl to cut down on the amount of crap they put on there. But when I go bracket racing they write extra crap as well.

The shoe-polish applicators are actually what scratches the Lexan. The polish material dries on their little brush at the end and becomes hard and does the scratching. Then once the Lexan is scratched - the polish wants to stay in the micro scratches the next time and is almost impossible to clean off. Lucky for me, most of the area that's scratched and still has white residue is directly behind my head - so I don't see it in the rear view mirror.

Black98R/T
01-04-2012, 04:41 PM
On mine I cut slots... Then fit the pieces that came out of the slot area to just remove the part where the bar is. My back window install is the window - and two narrow pieces to fill in the slots.

ah ok, got it:drive:

Adobedude
01-04-2012, 09:26 PM
Almost got it...We got a late start.

Anyone whom has done this knows if you weld in a bar at the wrong sequence, you're fucked...Definitely gota have a game plan. I thought about it all night. :jerkit:

But everything went smooth as silk.

EDIT: Welder is Union, at 2:30 he took his break, no discusion about it either...Must be nice.

Duner
01-04-2012, 09:41 PM
Almost got it...We got a late start.

Anyone whom has done this knows if you weld in a bar at the wrong sequence, you're fucked...Definitely gota have a game plan. I thought about it all night. :jerkit:

But everything went smooth as silk.

EDIT: Welder is Union, at 2:30 he took his break, no discusion about it either...Must be nice.

Are you paying scale as well?

nevr2fast01
01-05-2012, 03:27 AM
You get it finished up dave?

Adobedude
01-05-2012, 07:02 AM
Are you paying scale as well?

Nope...Doing it for free. I've bought a lot of structural steel from those guys over the years.

So maybe it's not for free....LOL

They weld everything for me. Suspension, exhaust....You name it. Never been charged.

Adobedude
01-05-2012, 07:04 AM
You get it finished up dave?

Tomorrow...Then it's Por-15 time

98Dak408
01-05-2012, 04:26 PM
Lookin' real good Dave! You do good work and your truck looks great. :biggthumpup:

Adobedude
01-06-2012, 12:14 AM
Bar is all welded up...Now to paint it. Thinking Hammertone, guys on Yellow Bullet love it. Hard as nails and a little texture...Still passes tech.

We welded the Outriggers to 1/4 plates, welded those to the frame...I cut a oval hole in the floor for the door bar (see Door Bar Pic) so Chris the Welder could get to it.

I learned all about frames today too, Chris use to repair semi truck frames, he was not too keen on any vertical welds anyway, he said all they could do was horizontal welds...Hence the plates. He could weld the shit out out of the outrigger to the plate and then be a little more carefull welding the plate to the frame.

I have few holes to patch...But that's easy stuff.

EDIT: Forgot to add...When I can get the truck to their shop, they are going to box the frame under the mainhoop supports.

huskerrt79
01-06-2012, 12:26 AM
Bar is all welded up...Now to paint it. Thinking Hammertone, guys on Yellow Bullet love it. Hard as nails and a little texture...Still passes tech.

We welded the Outriggers to 1/4 plates, welded those to the frame...I cut a oval hole in the floor for the door bar (see Door Bar Pic) so Chris the Welder could get to it.

I learned all about frames today too, Chris use to repair semi truck frames...Hence the plates, he was not too keen on any vertical welds anyway, he said all they could do was horizontal welds...Hence the plates. He could weld the shit out out of the outrigger to the plate and then be a little more carefull welding the plate to the frame.

I have few holes to patch...But that's easy stuff.

Bad ass man, When is your flight???

Adobedude
01-06-2012, 12:28 AM
Bad ass man, When is your flight???

Track opens in March...Block is at the machinest...Everything is balanced, should get it back next week.

Did you see the cover for the air vent in the back of the cab?

huskerrt79
01-06-2012, 12:30 AM
Track opens in March...Block is at the machinest...Everything is balanced, should get it back next week.

Did you see the cover for the air vent in the back of the cab?

Negative!:idunno:

Adobedude
01-06-2012, 12:37 AM
Negative!:idunno:

It's in the "intersection pic"....:biggthumpup:

huskerrt79
01-06-2012, 12:41 AM
It's in the "intersection pic"....:biggthumpup:

Oh damn, that looks awesome. What did you use to paint inside your cab?

nevr2fast01
01-06-2012, 12:50 AM
Looks great, now i wanna do mine :(

Adobedude
01-06-2012, 01:06 AM
Oh damn, that looks awesome. What did you use to paint inside your cab?

Duplicolor ratttle can Flame Red from Pep Boyz :rockwoot:

I cut the size/shape mark and drill the holes, primer it, paint it Red (couple coats). Pop rivet it in place, then give it the final coat of red, then clear...Sometimes I get a bounce from the pop rivet tool and it scratches the paint...Plus I don't want a bazillion silver dots all over the the place.

Adobedude
01-06-2012, 01:07 AM
Looks great, now i wanna do mine :(

No you don't.....:biggthumpup:

huskerrt79
01-06-2012, 01:10 AM
Duplicolor ratttle can Flame Red from Pep Boyz :rockwoot:

I cut the size/shape mark and drill the holes, primer it, paint it Red (couple coats). Pop rivet it in place, then give it the final coat of red, then clear...Sometimes I get a bounce from the pop rivet tool and it scratches the paint...Plus I don't want a bazillion silver dots all over the the place.

You rattle canned the entire interior?

Adobedude
01-06-2012, 01:48 AM
You rattle canned the entire interior?

Yuuuuup!

Lot's of areas need paint when you gut it...Gotta look good yo.

Next up are the interior aluminum (or Sheetmetal) door panels....The stock panels won't work now. I'm painting those with GM splatter paint for trunks. Don't want no shiney shit in the cab.

SB440R/T
01-06-2012, 09:55 AM
Why did you cover up the vents? Isn't that adding a couple ounces?

bwdakrt
01-06-2012, 11:14 AM
Yuuuuup!

Lot's of areas need paint when you gut it...Gotta look good yo.

Next up are the interior aluminum (or Sheetmetal) door panels....The stock panels won't work now. I'm painting those with GM splatter paint for trunks. Don't want no shiney shit in the cab.

I think I have a case of 6 11oz cans of Duplicolor black/grey in my shed if you'd be interested. Sell you the whole case for $25 + shipping. :biggthumpup:

huskerrt79
01-06-2012, 12:42 PM
I think I have a case of 6 11oz cans of Duplicolor black/grey in my shed if you'd be interested. Sell you the whole case for $25 + shipping. :biggthumpup:

lol, always trying to sell something. I dont blame ya, I have 6 cans of VHT pink panther if are interested in them.:biggthumpup:

bwdakrt
01-06-2012, 12:51 PM
lol, always trying to sell something. I dont blame ya, I have 6 cans of VHT pink panther if are interested in them.:biggthumpup:

I bought the paint with the intentions of spraying the inside of the bed and then changed my mind after I saw one of the Bedrugs and changed my mind. Actually forgot about having them until I looking for something else and found the paint. :D

Adobedude
01-06-2012, 12:52 PM
Why did you cover up the vents? Isn't that adding a couple ounces?

Sheetmetal panel is probably lighter...:finger:

I don't need a giant hole in the cab...Especially right over the end of the exhaust pipes

huskerrt79
01-06-2012, 01:07 PM
Sheetmetal panel is probably lighter...:finger:

I don't need a giant hole in the cab...Especially right over the end of the exhaust pipes

:biggthumpup:

Adobedude
01-07-2012, 10:14 PM
I decided on using Rustoleum Hammertone Black applied with a foam brush, (which is really dark gray), followed by a coat of rattle can Rustoleum Metallic Dark Gray to even it out and kill some of the texture...

I don't want to just paint it black.

Adobedude
01-07-2012, 10:29 PM
:biggthumpup:

I don't need a giant hole in the cab...Especially right over the end of the exhaust pipes

I said hole...Not ass hole. :finger:

Hugh Jassole
01-07-2012, 11:53 PM
why not paint it red ?

BryanRT360
01-08-2012, 12:14 AM
Looking good Dave:biggthumpup:

Adobedude
01-16-2012, 12:18 AM
Floors are patched and roll bar is painted....I used Rustoleum Hammertone black, it's really dark Gray...It came out fucking perfect. :rockwoot:

Brused it on....Didn't have to mask anything, took all of an hour to paint it.

I took pics but they came out shitty, I'll get more tomorrow...

Adobedude
01-23-2012, 12:27 AM
Patched and painted....:rockwoot:

98Dak408
01-23-2012, 12:31 AM
Nice job Dave! :biggthumpup:

Jstrag360
01-23-2012, 12:35 AM
Looks great Dave:rockwoot:

huskerrt79
01-23-2012, 01:06 AM
Looks sick!

Adobedude
01-23-2012, 02:35 AM
Nice job Dave! :biggthumpup:

Thanks....I'd like to do it again now that I know how...:biggthumpup:

I'm happy as shit with it though...I've got the seat ready to go, I'm a little closer to the wheel, but with a 5 point harness I won't have to reach for the switches.

I gave my front bumper the Dave Downing treatment waiting for the paint to dry....

JDreamR/T
01-24-2012, 05:04 PM
dannggg...dat's nice! So how safe does that hammertone make you feel? I would imagine the cage also makes the frame real tight too, especially after it's boxed. Good deal :biggthumpup: