PDA

View Full Version : getting rid of evap system



Addicted2Blue00
07-26-2011, 12:17 AM
ive been workin on pulling the clutter out while the motor is out been ive forgot some details. any advice or extra detail is welcome.

1. the tube from the gas tank to the char filter box needs a breather filter
2. the plug to the part on the firewall needs certain resistor to keep away the CEL, mostly found to work on 98-00

EDIT - actual write up (http://www.dakotart.com/forum/showpost.php?p=198167&postcount=17)

sunike32
07-26-2011, 12:45 AM
ive been workin on pulling the clutter out while the motor is out been ive forgot some details. any advice or extra detail is welcome.

1. the tube from the gas tank to the char filter box needs a breather filter
2. the plug to the part on the firewall needs certain resistor to keep away the CEL, mostly found to work on 98-00

1. I didn't bother putting a breather on mine. I simply coiled that hose up and left it sitting on top of the gas tank.

2. My '99 was happy with a 1/2W 100ohm resistor.

PeteRT
07-26-2011, 01:26 AM
that sounds right to me!

(i just coiled my hose up too)

Pete

WeezyRT
07-26-2011, 01:57 AM
I plan on doing this soon.

Where exactly does the resistor go; or will it be obvious once Im doing it?

Five9Dak
07-26-2011, 01:58 AM
The lines go to a solenoid valve on the firewall/cowl shelf. You remove that and lines/canister and put the resistor in the connector on the wireharness in place of the solenoid. Make sure to shield it from water ingress, I just shot it full of diealectric grease and wrapped a boatload of electrical tape around it. It's lasted 3 years or so like that sitting on the valley pan of the M1

Addicted2Blue00
07-26-2011, 02:03 AM
forgot to mention, block off the port beside the map sensor. i happened to find a pack of port plugs at the parts sort of assorted sizes.

mtlcafan79
07-26-2011, 02:26 AM
I plan on doing this soon.

Where exactly does the resistor go; or will it be obvious once Im doing it?

Don't you have an 02? Resistor doesn't work for 01+ IIRC

WeezyRT
07-26-2011, 02:53 AM
Don't you have an 02? Resistor doesn't work for 01+ IIRC

I did, not anymore. I have a 98 now.
Thanks for pointing that out anyway though.

Filthy Filbert
07-27-2011, 11:46 PM
source for resistor? where'd you guys buy them? part number or link?

or do I go to the local radio shack and tell them I want a 1/2 watt 100 ohm resistor?

or rather, go to the radio shack in Columbus, because my local radio shack has proven to be a total waste of space, the idiot can't even stock the "common stuff"


--I went in one time looking for a special battery for a garage door opener. owner/manager looked at me and said "oh yea, those are probably the most popular garage door batteries out there....but we don't have any. we're out of stock."


really? THE most common garage door battery, and you can't keep it in stock? If I owned the store, I think I'd order 100 at a time, and when I got down to 20, I'd order 100 more, so I was NEVER out of stock.

plus I took a chance, knowing they sell RC cars that are a step above the big box store cheap crap, I was looking for batteries for my E-Maxx. it takes 2 7 volt batteries for a 14 v system. guy looked at me and said "7 volt batteries? everyone runs 9.6v now. I don't have anything in 7 volts" I rolled my eyes at him.

I try to support the local guys, but fuck, when they suck that much, I'm forced to go to Wal-mart:jerkit:

sunike32
07-28-2011, 12:21 AM
I just went to the local Radio Shack and looked through the resistor section. If I remember correctly, I bought a 5 pack for a couple bucks.

jmaack727
07-28-2011, 04:01 AM
I got mine from radio shack. .99 cents for 5a I posted a part number on here.

Filthy Filbert
07-28-2011, 02:30 PM
Just picked up a pack at radio shack. They're up to $1.17 now

Anyway, I've got 5. Only need 1. Anyone else want a resistor?

Patrick
07-28-2011, 02:47 PM
Just picked up a pack at radio shack. They're up to $1.17 now

Anyway, I've got 5. Only need 1. Anyone else want a resistor?

Save one for me when we swap the 360 in.

Filthy Filbert
07-28-2011, 03:15 PM
Save one for me when we swap the 360 in.

ooh, I dunno, that's gonna cost ya like...$15.


everyone else, yours is free. the one I just sold Patrick will cover the cost of the other 3:jester:

WeezyRT
07-28-2011, 04:15 PM
Just picked up a pack at radio shack. They're up to $1.17 now

Anyway, I've got 5. Only need 1. Anyone else want a resistor?

Sure, Ill take one.

Filthy Filbert
07-28-2011, 04:27 PM
Pm me your address. First 3 to PM me get one. I gotta keep the last for Patrick


And I just did the mod. Took me all of an hour!!

Filthy Filbert
08-01-2011, 01:36 PM
Now with pics and write up!

you know...cause this is so complicated and hard to figure out!:finger: whatever, enjoy the pics.


here's the resistors-- 1/2 watt, 100 ohm from Radio shack. after tax was like....$1.17 or something.

http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c6/filbert383/photo3-1.jpg


Here's the before shot of the mess that I plan to get rid of.
notice the electrical connector plugged into the solenoid. THAT's where htis resistor will be going.

http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c6/filbert383/photo4.jpg


I made a loop with the resistor to feed the wire through. I cut the factory connector off with about 6" of wire. stripped the 2 ends of the remaining wire, twisted the copper strands together and fed it through the loop here. Then twisted the copper up so it was all held together tightly without using solder/heat

http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c6/filbert383/photo5.jpg

AND:

http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c6/filbert383/photo6.jpg


once each end was wrapped up together, I covered all the bare wire with tape, so that it wouldn't short together once wrapped up, then I wrapped both wires together to make this neat little "stub" of wire wrapped in tape. neat and clean, and nearly invisible once tucked away with the rest of the wires.

http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c6/filbert383/photo7.jpg


And, here's all the crap removed...the rubber vacuum hoses, solenoid/valve/mounting bracket...and the wires tucked away.

http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c6/filbert383/photo8-1.jpg



And this is everything I removed--vacuum lines, vent tubes, charcoal canister, etc. I took the rubber vent coming off the fuel tank and zip tied it up to the frame rail, so that it's secure, and still allows the tank to vent as needed.

http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c6/filbert383/photo9-1.jpg



total time took me all of about an hour to do this. the hardest part, was fighting the rusty 13mm bolt on the top of the frame that holds the charcoal canister. I had to put the wrench on the bolt head by feel, get a 1/4 turn, then lift the wrench off, and reposition, again, all by feel....and it was rusty, so I needed to add another wrench to the end of the 13mm wrench, to give me more torque. and it's a fine thread bolt, so it only took about 1000 turns to get it backed out all the way.

Addicted2Blue00
08-01-2011, 01:42 PM
i plan to do the same with the vent canister

rt dak
08-20-2011, 08:31 PM
I remember awhile back on Delphi it was said a 1/4 watt 100 ohm resistor was the ticket. I did that and all was fine back on the Mopar PCM but when I put my stock PCM back in recently I got the EVAP code. I figured maybe the resistor went bad or got broken in all the work I did to the truck lately. I soldered in a new one today and cleared the codes but it came right back. Guess I should try the 1/2 watt?

rt dak
08-20-2011, 08:32 PM
total time took me all of about an hour to do this. the hardest part, was fighting the rusty 13mm bolt on the top of the frame that holds the charcoal canister. I had to put the wrench on the bolt head by feel, get a 1/4 turn, then lift the wrench off, and reposition, again, all by feel....and it was rusty, so I needed to add another wrench to the end of the 13mm wrench, to give me more torque. and it's a fine thread bolt, so it only took about 1000 turns to get it backed out all the way.

Yeah that bolt was a fuckin bastard. Damn near inaccessible.

99408kotar/t
08-21-2011, 04:19 PM
How much would you say all that stuff weighs? Obviously the lines aren't heavy but I was wondering about the canister.

hskr
08-21-2011, 06:24 PM
Some have gotten away with a 1/4W resistor. I never was able to. Would burn up the ressitor in just a few days. Stepped up to a 1/2W resistor and no problems since.

As for the '01+ guys, the resistor trick does work for the purge solenoid code, but you will still get a leak detection pump code. '00 Federal trucks and older didn't have leak detection pumps.

rt dak
08-21-2011, 06:59 PM
'00 Federal trucks and older didn't have leak detection pumps.

I had one.

Addicted2Blue00
08-21-2011, 09:41 PM
How much would you say all that stuff weighs? Obviously the lines aren't heavy but I was wondering about the canister.
maybe 5lbs?

I done it for less clutter under the hood and worry less about a code from a dry rotted hoses which would involve some time having to chase down.

99408kotar/t
08-21-2011, 09:49 PM
maybe 5lbs?

I done it for less clutter under the hood and worry less about a code from a dry rotted hoses which would involve some time having to chase down.

Oh ok, well hey still 5 less lbs. That's good for at least 2/10's right:biggthumpup:

Filthy Filbert
08-22-2011, 02:01 AM
More like 12 lbs would be my guess. The large charcoal canister is kind of hefty for what it is


The newer trucks w a leak detection pump... What is it, and where is it located? Surely there's a way to plug a port or something to trick it into thinking the system is working... Hook it up to a vacuum source to trick it into thinking it's seeing the purge solenoid working?

rt dak
08-22-2011, 02:03 AM
More like 12 lbs would be my guess. The large charcoal canister is kind of hefty for what it is


The newer trucks w a leak detection pump... What is it, and where is it located? Surely there's a way to plug a port or something to trick it into thinking the system is working... Hook it up to a vacuum source to trick it into thinking it's seeing the purge solenoid working?

It's underneath the battery tray. Mine was working fine with the resistor for a couple years until I swapped PCMs, now I get the code. I'm going to try a 1/2 watt resistor and see what happens.

99408kotar/t
08-22-2011, 02:05 AM
I'm gonna yank mine out this week.

mtlcafan79
08-22-2011, 02:07 AM
Only way a 1/2W is gonna help is if you were burning out the 1/4W.

hskr
08-22-2011, 10:53 AM
It's underneath the battery tray. Mine was working fine with the resistor for a couple years until I swapped PCMs, now I get the code. I'm going to try a 1/2 watt resistor and see what happens.
You swapped PCMs, that's your problem. If you have a leak detection pump, then you have a Cali emissions truck. If you were running with just the resistor in the purge solenoid connector and didn't have a code with the Mopar PCM then you probably had a federal emissions Mopar PCM in the truck. When you put the stock PCM back in, which is a Cali PCM, then you started popping the code for the LDP.

You can run a federal emissions PCM in a Cali emissions truck and get away with just the resistor because it doesn't know to look for a leak detection pump. This only works on the '00 and older. '01+ all had leak detection pumps as Dodge went to 50-state emissions across the board instead of having to stock two different part number PCMs and wiring harnesses.

rt dak
08-22-2011, 09:58 PM
You swapped PCMs, that's your problem. If you have a leak detection pump, then you have a Cali emissions truck. If you were running with just the resistor in the purge solenoid connector and didn't have a code with the Mopar PCM then you probably had a federal emissions Mopar PCM in the truck. When you put the stock PCM back in, which is a Cali PCM, then you started popping the code for the LDP.

You can run a federal emissions PCM in a Cali emissions truck and get away with just the resistor because it doesn't know to look for a leak detection pump. This only works on the '00 and older. '01+ all had leak detection pumps as Dodge went to 50-state emissions across the board instead of having to stock two different part number PCMs and wiring harnesses.

Hmm thanks for the info man. I just searched my PCM part number and it comes back as a California PCM. Had no idea I had a Cali emissions truck. I need to get a new PCM due the the 5 speed swap anyway so i'll make sure it's a Federal one.

Addicted2Blue00
08-23-2011, 12:06 AM
Hmm thanks for the info man. I just searched my PCM part number and it comes back as a California PCM. Had no idea I had a Cali emissions truck. I need to get a new PCM due the the 5 speed swap anyway so i'll make sure it's a Federal one.
ive got one layin here if ya interested, 00 fed non-security r/t

rt dak
08-23-2011, 12:52 AM
ive got one layin here if ya interested, 00 fed non-security r/t

I need a 5 speed PCM, thanks though.

matt360r/t
08-25-2011, 11:20 PM
when you remove the evap stuff, do you just plug the hose to the tb

Addicted2Blue00
08-26-2011, 03:03 AM
when you remove the evap stuff, do you just plug the hose to the tb
yep, i happened to find some assorted sizes or nipple plugs at the parts store

ScojoDak
08-26-2011, 03:12 AM
This thread should be a sticky.

merctech
08-30-2011, 02:37 PM
whats the pros for doing this mod??

Intense RT
08-30-2011, 04:29 PM
whats the pros for doing this mod??

Shed about, what, 5lbs? Cleans up engine bay some too.

rt dak
08-30-2011, 04:39 PM
whats the pros for doing this mod??

Cleaning up the engine bay was the reason I did it. Plus I think some people had some problems with one of the tubes hitting the header and catching fire.

Filthy Filbert
08-30-2011, 07:12 PM
Cleaning up the engine bay was the reason I did it. Plus I think some people had some problems with one of the tubes hitting the header and catching fire.


yup, there was a 1/2" or so rubber hose that had a cap on the end of it, came up to the firewall next to the solenoid. not sure why it was there or why it was capped...it might have gone to something else and a prior owner just capped it, but that kept hitting my exhaust and smelled like burning plastic. it was quite nerve racking after I actually did have a small electrical fire that melted part of my power distribution box from a corroded alternator wire.

fixed that and kept getting that burning plastic smell and I kept pulling over to check it for another fire.

the biggest gain you get from this, is a neater engine bay. no more spiderweb of vacuum lines and the solenoid on the firewall between the valve cover and brake booster.

no performance gain. it's just cosmetic. the system puts vacuum on the charcoal canister. it's an emissions thing.
someone, somewhere said that the millions of gallons of gas that evaporate to the atmosphere every year was killing tree frogs on some south african isalnd or some shit, and forced auto-makers to come up with a system that collects evaporated fuel vapors and then burns them through the engine.

fuel evaporates out of tank, gets captured in the charcoal canister, then when your engine is running, it puts vacuum on the canister to suck out the fuel vapors and burns them through the engine. your truck will run just fine without it. you may lose 1/2 gallon or 2 through the course of a year from the fuel evaporating into the air, but...so what? not enough for me to notice or care.

those endangered tree frogs can suck my left nut.

tcuillier
08-30-2011, 08:25 PM
"those endangered tree frogs can suck my left nut."

Agreed! All of us, put together, will not generate as much pollution in our lifetimes---as the President and his wife did last week, taking separate "Air Force One" planes to Martha's Vinyard and back.

Duner
08-30-2011, 08:39 PM
"those endangered tree frogs can suck my left nut."

Agreed! All of us, put together, will not generate as much pollution in our lifetimes---as the President and his wife did last week, taking separate "Air Force One" planes to Martha's Vinyard and back.

That's racist!

Filthy Filbert
08-30-2011, 08:59 PM
That's racist!

hey, fuck you clown!


Martha was not racist! she grew every species of grapes known to man! not just the white grapes to make white wine! fag.:finger:



sometimes....I make myself laugh.:woot:

hskr
08-30-2011, 09:00 PM
The larger line that was capped off is used on the Cali emissions vehicles for the leak detection pump. It wasn't used on federal emissions vehicles, but the large hose and smaller one are manufactured as one "unit" so to get one you get them both.

And as mentioned, no performance gains, purely cosmetic.

jmaack727
08-30-2011, 09:47 PM
My butt dyno said 1.35 hp.

tcuillier
08-30-2011, 10:05 PM
Al Gore is flat losing it! In a speech last week at the Aspen Institute, he totally went beserk---yelling Bullshit several times. Here's a link to the audio.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rMr7Lyv1LTI&feature=related

Five9Dak
08-31-2011, 12:06 AM
The real reason to remove the evap system on an R/T is it can and has burned trucks to the ground when the vent line falls on the header.

PeteRT
08-31-2011, 02:53 AM
...you may lose 1/2 gallon or 2 through the course of a year from the fuel evaporating into the air,...



i highly doubt that

Addicted2Blue00
08-31-2011, 03:06 AM
would it be possible to put a one way valve on the line from the tank so it only lets air in when the pump is sucking up gas?

wyotech_cuda440
08-31-2011, 03:20 AM
would it be possible to put a one way valve on the line from the tank so it only lets air in when the pump is sucking up gas?

Your gas cap has a check valve that already does that for you :biggthumpup:

Five9Dak
08-31-2011, 11:21 AM
i highly doubt that

My truck was on jackstands for about a month and I noticed it had lost gas. It has no evap system.

mtlcafan79
08-31-2011, 01:49 PM
And I thought only BAG2's spent time on jack stands.

PeteRT
08-31-2011, 05:48 PM
My truck was on jackstands for about a month and I noticed it had lost gas. It has no evap system.

through that tiny itty bitty tube that used to connect to the charcoal cannister? with little to no air exchange?

(ps im not an authority, it just doesnt make sense to me)

Five9Dak
08-31-2011, 07:01 PM
The newer trucks might be different, there a big fat soft rubber hose vent on mine. I can see if it fell on the header it would have definitely caught fire.

PeteRT
08-31-2011, 09:35 PM
yeah that one went to the canister, but the line to the gas tank itself is like 1/8" ID.

i duno, it's been a while and it's stupid to argue about :jester:

Duner
08-31-2011, 09:38 PM
What's that smell?

The line that's about 3/8" and fairly hard plastic melted in half on my headers as well. No flames, but melted plastic all over the header tube and a nasty smell.

Filthy Filbert
09-01-2011, 01:03 AM
would it be possible to put a one way valve on the line from the tank so it only lets air in when the pump is sucking up gas?

good idea, until you consider this:

gas when it comes out of the ground at the gas station storage tanks, is at ground temp. probably between 50-65 degrees.

what happens when it's 95 degrees outside, you fill up, drive 10 miles home, and then park the truck?

the gas tank vent needs to be free and open, or you'll develop a vacuum in the tank when driving, making the pump work harder, and eventually burning it up, and as the temps rise and fall, you need room for the gas to expand and contract, or you'll build up pressure in the tank.

neither situation is a good one to have.

jmaack727
09-01-2011, 01:21 AM
If they vent off pressure why does mine hiss when i open the lid after sitting in the heat?

hskr
09-01-2011, 05:20 PM
If they vent off pressure why does mine hiss when i open the lid after sitting in the heat?
Bad gas cap not venting properly?

wyotech_cuda440
09-01-2011, 10:56 PM
If they vent off pressure why does mine hiss when i open the lid after sitting in the heat?

Gas caps dont vent pressure. They hold the fumes in, but the have a check valve that allows air in to prevent a vacuum in the tank.

Pressure in the tank is not a problem, it only helps the fuel pump, and pushes the fumes into the evap system if you still have one.

Vacuum in the tank is a big problem, its very hard on the fuel pump. That's why gas caps have the check valve that lets in air as gas is drawn out of the tank.

jmaack727
09-01-2011, 10:58 PM
Makes sense as every car and truck we own does it.

Filthy Filbert
09-01-2011, 11:51 PM
Actually, the whole point behind the evap system is to put a light vacuum on the tank to recover the evaporated fumes. That's why every new car turns on the check engine light when your gas cap isn't sealed, and why this mod doesn't work on the newer Dakotas with their leak detection pump

moparpower
09-17-2011, 12:47 AM
so i have a 99 cc r/t, that 3/8'' line comes up by the drivers side header and runs to a unit behind my batttey im guessing this means i have the leak detection pump? if so does this mean theres no way of getting rid of this "evap" system? and how can i look to find out weather or not my ECU is a cali or federal?

hskr
09-17-2011, 09:16 PM
so i have a 99 cc r/t, that 3/8'' line comes up by the drivers side header and runs to a unit behind my batttey im guessing this means i have the leak detection pump? if so does this mean theres no way of getting rid of this "evap" system? and how can i look to find out weather or not my ECU is a cali or federal?

If you have the stuff under the battery box your truxk is california emissions. If you find a federal emissions PCM to put into your truck you can ditch the evap stuff with no CEL using the resistor.

moparpower
10-19-2011, 12:31 PM
when i put the federal PCM in, wont it trow a CEL if its not flashed to match the truck?

Addicted2Blue00
10-19-2011, 10:59 PM
i havent thrown a CEL when i changed the ecu on my 00 and ive changed it 2 different ecu's which neither have a matching vin, both are fed ecu

Cheezie
08-29-2012, 07:36 PM
So is there a way to make this work on an '03? Any way to set it up so that the pcm either doesn't detect or can't detect the leak?

Axiom
08-29-2012, 08:09 PM
So is there a way to make this work on an '03? Any way to set it up so that the pcm either doesn't detect or can't detect the leak?

Agreed. I'd love to remove all this crap from my engine bay while the motors out.

FlyinRyan
08-31-2012, 12:50 PM
It can be done through SCT.

Cheezie
08-31-2012, 05:48 PM
It can be done through SCT.

:biggthumpup: that's what I wanted to hear!!!

Xxaler
04-02-2013, 03:42 AM
Anyone had a problem with the resistor shorting out? Been working fine for 6-months, today it shorted out and burnt through the heatshrink out of nowhere while driving.

skunkxracing
04-02-2013, 11:32 AM
Anyone had a problem with the resistor shorting out? Been working fine for 6-months, today it shorted out and burnt through the heatshrink out of nowhere while driving.

You need a higher wattage resistor.

KicknAsphlt
04-11-2013, 03:30 AM
^^ What he said -- general consensus is that a 1/4-watt resistor is fine, but some have had to use anywhere between a 1/2-watt to a 1-watt resistor.

sunike32
04-11-2013, 10:08 AM
You need a higher wattage resistor.

The only time my resistor fried is when it got wet after washing the engine bay :jester:

FWIW, I run a 1/2W 100ohm resistor.

Hugh Jassole
04-11-2013, 01:55 PM
JT, you need to check this for that evap code you have now. I believe Dave did this mod.

Xxaler
04-11-2013, 11:13 PM
I was running a 1/2w 100ohm before, put another one in. CEL won't go away now. Tried clearing codes multiple times, de-tuning and clearing. Worth disconnecting the battery for a while? Or am I going to be forced to re-install all that crap for my E-test before the end of April?

Filthy Filbert
04-11-2013, 11:17 PM
I was running a 1/2w 100ohm before, put another one in. CEL won't go away now. Tried clearing codes multiple times, de-tuning and clearing. Worth disconnecting the battery for a while? Or am I going to be forced to re-install all that crap for my E-test before the end of April?

you burnt a resistor up, right?

try a 1/2 w, 50 ohm resistor.

the resistor you have is too big, and the computer sees it as a constantly open circuit, and thus, "fail" and the CEL.

Xxaler
04-11-2013, 11:29 PM
Sounds like a plan, I'll grab one tomorrow. In Ontario it's almost impossible to find an electronics store that sells resistors, finding a few 1/2w 100ohm was hard enough ($5 for 3 10 cent resistors...). Stupid Radioshack, sell outs...

sunike32
04-12-2013, 12:03 AM
Sounds like a plan, I'll grab one tomorrow. In Ontario it's almost impossible to find an electronics store that sells resistors, finding a few 1/2w 100ohm was hard enough ($5 for 3 10 cent resistors...). Stupid Radioshack, sell outs...

If the 1/2W 100ohm resistor worked for you before, and you simply burned it up, then I see no reason why it shouldn't work again with a fresh one. :idunno:

I would disconnect negative terminal, put new resistor in, and let the computer relearn. Just my .02...

Friggin' R/T
04-15-2013, 10:31 AM
Can someone post pics of exactly where the resistor is and how the system should look when it is deleted properly? I have code 1494, which is for the "leak detection system" (evap I think) and im thinking the resistor is burned up

Filthy Filbert
04-15-2013, 03:37 PM
Can someone post pics of exactly where the resistor is and how the system should look when it is deleted properly? I have code 1494, which is for the "leak detection system" (evap I think) and im thinking the resistor is burned up





Did you read the whole thread? go back and check post #17:jester:








Now with pics and write up!

you know...cause this is so complicated and hard to figure out!:finger: whatever, enjoy the pics.


here's the resistors-- 1/2 watt, 100 ohm from Radio shack. after tax was like....$1.17 or something.

http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c6/filbert383/photo3-1.jpg


Here's the before shot of the mess that I plan to get rid of.
notice the electrical connector plugged into the solenoid. THAT's where htis resistor will be going.

http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c6/filbert383/photo4.jpg


I made a loop with the resistor to feed the wire through. I cut the factory connector off with about 6" of wire. stripped the 2 ends of the remaining wire, twisted the copper strands together and fed it through the loop here. Then twisted the copper up so it was all held together tightly without using solder/heat

http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c6/filbert383/photo5.jpg

AND:

http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c6/filbert383/photo6.jpg


once each end was wrapped up together, I covered all the bare wire with tape, so that it wouldn't short together once wrapped up, then I wrapped both wires together to make this neat little "stub" of wire wrapped in tape. neat and clean, and nearly invisible once tucked away with the rest of the wires.

http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c6/filbert383/photo7.jpg


And, here's all the crap removed...the rubber vacuum hoses, solenoid/valve/mounting bracket...and the wires tucked away.

http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c6/filbert383/photo8-1.jpg



And this is everything I removed--vacuum lines, vent tubes, charcoal canister, etc. I took the rubber vent coming off the fuel tank and zip tied it up to the frame rail, so that it's secure, and still allows the tank to vent as needed.

http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c6/filbert383/photo9-1.jpg



total time took me all of about an hour to do this. the hardest part, was fighting the rusty 13mm bolt on the top of the frame that holds the charcoal canister. I had to put the wrench on the bolt head by feel, get a 1/4 turn, then lift the wrench off, and reposition, again, all by feel....and it was rusty, so I needed to add another wrench to the end of the 13mm wrench, to give me more torque. and it's a fine thread bolt, so it only took about 1000 turns to get it backed out all the way.

sunike32
04-15-2013, 08:35 PM
Can someone post pics of exactly where the resistor is and how the system should look when it is deleted properly? I have code 1494, which is for the "leak detection system" (evap I think) and im thinking the resistor is burned up

I don't believe you can do it with the newer trucks because of the leak detection pump. Or maybe I have that confused with non-fed PCMs...

Cheezie
04-16-2013, 05:54 AM
I don't believe you can do it with the newer trucks because of the leak detection pump. Or maybe I have that confused with non-fed PCMs...

Supposedly you can alter that setting through sct....

Dont know if any 01 and ups hve done that delete... I may be the guinea pig soon.

KicknAsphlt
04-17-2013, 09:15 PM
AFAIK, all '01+ trucks will pop an LDP code if you use the resistor, cali or non-cali....

Friggin' R/T
04-20-2013, 03:46 PM
Ok so I read the whole thread. And the only way to get rid of the code that comes from the leak detection on an '02 is trough SCT?

sunike32
04-20-2013, 07:56 PM
Ok so I read the whole thread. And the only way to get rid of the code that comes from the leak detection on an '02 is trough SCT?

And I'm not sure anyone has proven that works yet... :idunno:

White Turbo
04-20-2013, 09:22 PM
Ok so I read the whole thread. And the only way to get rid of the code that comes from the leak detection on an '02 is trough SCT?

Call your favorite SCT tuner and find out.

Xxaler
04-20-2013, 10:38 PM
Okay, I put the OEM connector and emissions pieces back on, cleared the code, came back as soon as I cycled the key. I took the same pieces off my other dakota, cleared, same thing. Resistor doesn't work either now.

Wiring schematic says comes from C3 20 off the PCM, to the solenoid, then to Fuse 9. I checked fuse 9 on both fuse panels and neither are blown. Where am I off to next?

KicknAsphlt
04-22-2013, 04:24 AM
what year is your truck again?

SukMyDak
04-25-2013, 02:44 AM
Alright I'm on this hunt now because the larger 1" hose broke in half when I tried to move it away from my header. I was gonna try to fix it but to hell with this thing, it looks like complete shit in my engine bay. Only problem is that I have a 2001 and there isn't a delete for this discovered yet. I'm gonna get into this in the manual and see if I can come up with a way to trick the PCM. The 3rd year lessons of my IBEW apprenticeship on electronics may finally pay off. Let me see what I can come up with.

SukMyDak
04-25-2013, 03:07 AM
Okay, I put the OEM connector and emissions pieces back on, cleared the code, came back as soon as I cycled the key. I took the same pieces off my other dakota, cleared, same thing. Resistor doesn't work either now.

Wiring schematic says comes from C3 20 off the PCM, to the solenoid, then to Fuse 9. I checked fuse 9 on both fuse panels and neither are blown. Where am I off to next?

OK Xxaler, I already found why your DTC keeps popping up, even after your fixes, the code won't clear until 40 warm up cycles unless its cleared with a scan tool that can clear stored trouble codes. A disconnect battery or SCT clear won't work. I think.....

Copy and Pasted from service manual

DESCRIPTION The Powertrain Control Module (PCM) monitors
many different circuits in the fuel injection, ignition,
emission and engine systems. If the PCM senses a
problem with a monitored circuit often enough to
indicate an actual problem, it stores a Diagnostic
Trouble Code (DTC) in the PCM’s memory. If the
code applies to a non-emissions related component or
system, and the problem is repaired or ceases to
exist, the PCM cancels the code after 40 warm-up
cycles. Diagnostic trouble codes that affect vehicle
emissions illuminate the Malfunction Indicator
(check engine) Lamp. Refer to Malfunction Indicator
Lamp in this section.

SukMyDak
04-25-2013, 04:51 AM
Holy crap, I have been reading and re-reading the operation description on this LDP (leak detection pump) and I am thinking that there is no way to trick this thing manually. Basically how it works (from what I can gather) is that the pump itself is actually just a plastic cylinder with a Solenoid that pushes and retracts a diaphragm rapidly with the use of a check valve to pump a positive pressure into the fuel cell of about 7.5"H20 for it's testing purpose, and also uses this pump at a lower pressure to actually ventilate the fuel vapor into the TB. It then determines if the system has a leak under the CARB tolerance of a leak from a .040" orifice (hole) or less. Then it will create that condition again, and then double check that again. You can definitely tell the tree huggers had their hands all over this portion of designing emission controls. To go this far on such a small aspect of environmental protection, is crazy to me. IMO this will have to be tuned out as Flyin Ryan suggested he may be able to do, or an actual little electronic board will have to be engineered to satisfy the various test conditions this thing calls for. However, what I will be doing if neither one of these pan out is relocating the whole device under my truck on the frame rail underneath, and will just plumb a longer vacuum tube from the throttle body back along side the DS engine harness. What a pain in the ass..

KicknAsphlt
04-25-2013, 07:09 AM
or an actual little electronic board will have to be engineered to satisfy the various test conditions this thing calls for.

This exact thing has been floating around in my head for about 5yrs now....unfortunately, I ripped all the shit out of my truck 5yrs ago before I got my hands on an o-scope...that, and I need to calibrate the scope so I know what I'm lookin' at is good...lol. Maybe one of these days I'll get off my ass and do something about this finally.

SukMyDak
04-25-2013, 07:29 AM
it would be nice if just for once us 01+ guys could have a break. I don't think it would be really hard for someone to figure this out that knows about electronics. it's just out of my realm and really it's such a trivial removal because it's just for looks, that I don't think to many of us care enough. Now if it woul produce 30 horse, there would have been a fix years ago, haha. Still, if you figure it out you wpuld probably make alot of engine bays alot cleaner.

KicknAsphlt
04-27-2013, 02:28 AM
It seems simple enough in my mind -- the trick is the o-scope in order to see what type of signal the purge solenoid and LDP are putting out to the PCM (square wave, sawtooth, what pulsewidth, etc)...then building a circuit to duplicate those signals in order to keep the PCM happy.

SukMyDak
04-27-2013, 03:07 AM
It seems simple enough in my mind -- the trick is the o-scope in order to see what type of signal the purge solenoid and LDP are putting out to the PCM (square wave, sawtooth, what pulsewidth, etc)...then building a circuit to duplicate those signals in order to keep the PCM happy.
I don't think the PCM checks that its sending the signal correctly, it just puts a PWM (pulse width modulation) out. Then it uses that PWM to "pump" the "3 position" solenoid rapidly (from position 1 to position 3) then holds the solenoid at 1/2 ram (position 2, sealed) once it has been performing the PWM for a predetermined time, and then it must have a psi sensor somewhere to make sure the fuel system is sealed. Then once it determines it is ok, it goes to full ram (position 3, open) which opens the fuel system to be vacuumed into the throttle body at will, as it is pressurized above a certain psi that is regulated by a spring/ball valve. ?????? this is the best I can do with my education, haha. I got lost a couple of times reading the service manual, having to read it again, and again. Any time that happens it usually means I'm in trouble, LOL.:idunno:

KicknAsphlt
04-29-2013, 01:17 AM
The PCM has to look for something though, otherwise you wouldn't get any codes.

SukMyDak
04-29-2013, 02:34 AM
The PCM has to look for something though, otherwise you wouldn't get any codes.

Yah, I just dont think it cares to much about the pumping action. I think it checks that pressure is maintained within a threshhold in the tank after it pumps. If it sends out it's PWM to pump with the solenoid, it will monitor the psi afterwards. If there is inadequate results it wil send a DTC. However, you may be right, it may check for the solenoids ohm reading to verify its there, or similar. I think you will have to basicly hook up an ohm meter, amp meter, and volt meter and basicly data log the 3 wires to see what the pcm is doing and wanting in return. It may be as simple as a time delay relay that gets a signal, then opens a contact after a set time and sends a signal back. Or it could get real messy, with multiple signals back and fourth. What do you think? Could you monitor the circuit? This would be really cool if we could get rid of this thing. Good for us, bad for the tree frogs, haha....

Friggin' R/T
04-29-2013, 10:40 AM
If you have to go through all that crap to get rid of 3 hoses and 2 small cans is it really worth it? Just run new hoses and hide them so I looks cleaner, on the 01-03 trucks it is already pretty hidden under the battery tray and PDC. I'm just restoring the evap hoses to clear the code. I'm gonna hide the hoses and make it look clean. I just think you guys are going too hard to clear something not many people give a crap about. But anyways i applaud the effort :biggthumpup:

KicknAsphlt
05-03-2013, 04:36 AM
Yah, I just dont think it cares to much about the pumping action. I think it checks that pressure is maintained within a threshhold in the tank after it pumps. If it sends out it's PWM to pump with the solenoid, it will monitor the psi afterwards. If there is inadequate results it wil send a DTC. However, you may be right, it may check for the solenoids ohm reading to verify its there, or similar. I think you will have to basicly hook up an ohm meter, amp meter, and volt meter and basicly data log the 3 wires to see what the pcm is doing and wanting in return. It may be as simple as a time delay relay that gets a signal, then opens a contact after a set time and sends a signal back. Or it could get real messy, with multiple signals back and fourth. What do you think? Could you monitor the circuit? This would be really cool if we could get rid of this thing. Good for us, bad for the tree frogs, haha....

If it's looking for a certain psi in the tank, that will probably translate to a sensor voltage/resistance that the PCM looks for. Just off the top of my head, I was thinking some sort of clock circuit would do the trick. As for monitoring things...I could, but that would require putting all that shit back on my truck, as well as making sure my o-scope is calibrated...kind of unsure of the calibration status when I acquired it...lol.


If you have to go through all that crap to get rid of 3 hoses and 2 small cans is it really worth it? Just run new hoses and hide them so I looks cleaner, on the 01-03 trucks it is already pretty hidden under the battery tray and PDC. I'm just restoring the evap hoses to clear the code. I'm gonna hide the hoses and make it look clean. I just think you guys are going too hard to clear something not many people give a crap about. But anyways i applaud the effort :biggthumpup:

Probably part of the reason I haven't pursued it much....not many people are worried about it. That, and I really haven't had time, not to mention I ripped the stuff out of my truck already and don't feel like putting it back in yet...lol.

Xxaler
05-03-2013, 10:13 PM
Tried running a direct wire from the PCM to the purge solenoid, and it works. Unfortunately though, even after running it and clearing the code it comes right back. Am I at the point of needing a new PCM?

Xxaler
05-08-2013, 03:23 AM
New PCM, no luck. Anyone know where the blue wire with the white tracer goes? I've read it's grounded with ignition on, but I'm having a bastard of a time tracking it inside of the cab.

Friggin' R/T
05-08-2013, 11:41 AM
Hope this helps
http://i1163.photobucket.com/albums/q560/Friggin_RT/image-1.jpg

JFreddy
05-10-2013, 02:55 PM
Wow so I just read this whole thread hoping and hoping for an answer... Sometimes it sucks to be an 01 truck... I would love to figure out a way to clean this stuff up... Horsepower gain or no horsepower gain.... I would love to remove all this stuff. My buddy's got an 00 with it deleted and I'm very jealous of the little bit that it cleans up. Plus I need the room to route my intake for the Kenne Bell!

98kotart
08-20-2013, 04:29 PM
I read the whole thread and noticed that on Tom's truck he still has something on his firewall next to where the EVAP stuff was. Mine is to the left of the battery, does this mean mine is a CA emissions? Also I have a Mopar Performance PCM, is there a way to check if it is a CA Emissions (other than sticking a resistor in there and testing it?)

Photo of filter next to battery.
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y23/98kotart/parts/20130820_0704541_zps15289840.jpg (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/98kotart/media/parts/20130820_0704541_zps15289840.jpg.html)

Filthy Filbert
08-21-2013, 12:35 AM
I read the whole thread and noticed that on Tom's truck he still has something on his firewall next to where the EVAP stuff was. Mine is to the left of the battery, does this mean mine is a CA emissions? Also I have a Mopar Performance PCM, is there a way to check if it is a CA Emissions (other than sticking a resistor in there and testing it?)

Photo of filter next to battery.
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y23/98kotart/parts/20130820_0704541_zps15289840.jpg (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/98kotart/media/parts/20130820_0704541_zps15289840.jpg.html)


Mine is a stick shift truck, are you looking at the clutch master/fluid reservoir?

If you have stuff by the battery, that's usually where the LDP goes, aka 'Cali-emissions'. With a 98, you can go to a federal emission program on the PCM and eliminate all that stuff

KyleDedrick
09-17-2013, 02:31 AM
Are all 98s federal? Also I assume the resistor just gets soldered to the one wire that's all?

98kotart
01-02-2014, 06:11 PM
Are all 98s federal? Also I assume the resistor just gets soldered to the one wire that's all?

Kyle. Not all '98 trucks are federal. Mine is Cali emissions but my pcm is federal. You can check on the hood sticker to see what emissions it has or by looking at the pcm. Took me forever to find out about my mopar pcm because dodge not only discontinued the '98 performance pcm, they took it out of their parts system.

As for the install, either solder or wrap wires like shown in photos

Heavymetal
03-27-2014, 04:05 PM
Got a question, not an electrical guy... Does the resistor have to face one way or another? if so which way? thanks

hskr
03-27-2014, 04:11 PM
Resistors are not directional so you don't need to worry about putting it in backwards.

Heavymetal
03-27-2014, 04:16 PM
Thank you sir. Nice truck

Lonesoldier79
04-06-2014, 04:55 PM
So I did the EVAP delete when I rebuilt my engine. I first used a 1/2 watt 100 ohm resister and after a couple of days code P1492 came up. I changed the 1/2 watt for a 1 watt and the code went away. Now I am getting code P1494 being thrown even after changing out the 1 watt again. I have 2000 RT with Cali emissions. Any other suggestions out there other than trying to install a federal PCM?

hskr
04-07-2014, 01:32 AM
So I did the EVAP delete when I rebuilt my engine. I first used a 1/2 watt 100 ohm resister and after a couple of days code P1492 came up. I changed the 1/2 watt for a 1 watt and the code went away. Now I am getting code P1494 being thrown even after changing out the 1 watt again. I have 2000 RT with Cali emissions. Any other suggestions out there other than trying to install a federal PCM?
You need a federal PCM or federal tune to get rid of the code for ther leak detection pump. Only way around it.

Addicted2Blue00
04-07-2014, 04:58 PM
the cali ecu are picky about this mod, as brian said a fed ecu will fix it.

Lonesoldier79
04-07-2014, 05:04 PM
the cali ecu are picky about this mod, as brian said a fed ecu will fix it.

I guess I will be in search of a federal PCM. Do I have to use a 2000 or would a 99 be ok?

hskr
04-07-2014, 07:02 PM
I guess I will be in search of a federal PCM. Do I have to use a 2000 or would a 99 be ok?
If you have the SCT then just get your tuner to switch to a Federal tune. Hemifever was able to change mine with a tune. Actually the PCm was originally a Fed PCM, but he accidentally sent me a Cali program and I started getting the emissions code for the LDP. Talked to him and he said the part number I gave him off my PCM crossed with a Cali PCM in his database which is why he sent me a Cali tune. He changed the tune to a federal one and I was good to go.

Addicted2Blue00
04-07-2014, 07:42 PM
i would rather go that route instead of finding another pcm.

Lonesoldier79
04-07-2014, 07:45 PM
i would rather go that route instead of finding another pcm.

I just left PIE a VM to see if Chris can do a federal tune for me.

RTchas
04-07-2014, 07:49 PM
I just left PIE a VM to see if Chris can do a federal tune for me.

I've got a 2000 PCM and BCM for security truck if needed:idunno:

Lonesoldier79
04-07-2014, 07:54 PM
I've got a 2000 PCM and BCM for security truck if needed:idunno:

You know who I will be sending a PM if the issues can't simply be tuned away with an SCT

hskr
04-07-2014, 08:19 PM
Well, I know first hand it can be fixed with a tune, so if PIE says they can't do it, might be time to find a different tuner.

perfinj
04-08-2014, 01:55 PM
Well, I know first hand it can be fixed with a tune, so if PIE says they can't do it, might be time to find a different tuner.

I will try my best.

Lonesoldier79
04-09-2014, 08:29 PM
Got the federal tune this morning and CEL went away. Hopefully it stays away for good. Thanks again for sending the tune so quickly Chris :biggthumpup:

hskr
04-09-2014, 09:07 PM
Got the federal tune this morning and CEL went away. Hopefully it stays away for good. Thanks again for sending the tune so quickly Chris :biggthumpup:
Glad he was able to take care of you.:biggthumpup:

Addicted2Blue00
04-09-2014, 11:25 PM
Got the federal tune this morning and CEL went away. Hopefully it stays away for good. Thanks again for sending the tune so quickly Chris :biggthumpup:
is that still using the resistor or can you go without it now?

i picked up a pack of the 100 ohm 1/2 watt resistors a couple weeks ago and the code has been gone since. its just taped in place for the moment.

Lonesoldier79
04-10-2014, 12:29 AM
is that still using the resistor or can you go without it now?

i picked up a pack of the 100 ohm 1/2 watt resistors a couple weeks ago and the code has been gone since. its just taped in place for the moment.

I still have the 1 watt 100 ohm resistor in. If it burns up I'll try another 1/2 watt.